Third article in the series–The Seasons of Winemaking.

As the leaves begin to turn, the excitement in the vineyard is palpable. Autumn is the season most commonly associated with winemaking, often evoking images of grapes being hand-harvested and clusters piled high in baskets. While harvest may indeed be the centerpiece of the season, there are numerous other tasks that play equally critical roles in ensuring the quality of the wine and the sustainability of the vineyard. This article delves into not only the harvest but also the less glamorous yet essential activities that take place in the vineyard and winery during the fall.

A Delicate Balance of Science and Instinct

Harvesting grapes is the most anticipated event of the winemaking calendar. It’s a race against time, as winemakers must decide the exact moment to pick the grapes based on their sugar, acid, and tannin levels. This decision is a combination of careful science—using refractometers to measure sugar (Brix) and pH meters to gauge acidity—and deep experience, where tasting the grapes is just as important as the metrics.

For most winemakers, harvest is staggered. White wine grapes like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc often ripen earlier than red varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah. Each grape variety, and indeed each vineyard block, requires unique attention, as factors like slope, soil composition, and sun exposure lead to different ripening times. As a result, harvest can stretch over several weeks, with winemakers and vineyard managers working around the clock to ensure that each grape is picked at its peak.

However, beyond simply picking grapes, winemakers must also deal with logistical hurdles, such as organizing teams of workers, securing harvest machinery, and ensuring that the winery is ready to receive the influx of fruit.

Precision Matters

Once grapes are harvested, they head straight to the sorting table. Sorting is a less romantic but absolutely critical process. Here, vineyard workers meticulously sift through the clusters to remove underripe, overripe, or damaged fruit, along with leaves, stems, or any other debris. This ensures that only the healthiest grapes make it to the fermentation tanks. A little-known fact is that, for some premium wines, winemakers may even opt for a second sorting, this time focusing on individual berries to further refine the quality of the final product.

A Controlled Chaos

Depending on the type of wine being made, pressing happens at different stages. For white wines, the grapes are usually pressed immediately after sorting, separating the juice from the skins and seeds before fermentation. In contrast, red wines undergo fermentation with their skins to extract color, tannin, and flavor, after which they are pressed.

Fermentation, though a naturally occurring process, is far from hands-off. Winemakers must closely monitor temperature, sugar levels, and fermentation activity. In many cases, they may also punch down the cap (the layer of grape skins that rises to the top during red wine fermentation) or pump over the juice to ensure maximum extraction of color and flavor. All the while, cleanliness is paramount, as any contamination can lead to unwanted bacterial or yeast activity, jeopardizing the entire batch.

Post-Harvest Tasks

While the grapes may have been picked, the vineyard itself still requires attention. After harvest, winemakers and vineyard managers focus on preparing the vines for winter dormancy.

1. Cover Crops: Many vineyards plant cover crops—such as legumes or grasses—between the rows of vines. These crops serve multiple purposes: they help prevent soil erosion during the rainy season, add nutrients to the soil, and encourage beneficial insects that control pests.
2. Post-Harvest Irrigation: Although the vines are entering dormancy, they still need a final round of irrigation after the harvest. This helps the plants store the necessary carbohydrates for the following growing season.
3. Disease Control: As the temperatures drop, there’s an increased risk of fungal diseases like botrytis. Spraying for these diseases before the onset of heavy rains helps to maintain the health of the vineyard.
4. Soil Analysis and Amendments: Autumn is also the time for soil sampling. Winemakers test for pH levels, nutrient content, and overall health, and then amend the soil as needed, incorporating compost or other organic materials to restore balance before winter.

Preparing for Aging

Once fermentation is complete, the wine is transferred to barrels or tanks for aging. This is where a winemaker’s vision really begins to take shape. The choice of oak, stainless steel, or even concrete vessels is deliberate, as each medium imparts different characteristics to the wine. Some winemakers also add fining agents to clarify the wine at this stage or conduct blending trials to experiment with how different lots can be combined to create the final product.

For many wineries, autumn also marks the beginning of bottling for wines that are not meant for extended aging. White wines or rosés from the previous harvest, which may have been aging in tanks over the summer, are typically bottled during this time.

Preparing for Winter

After the frenzy of harvest, the winery itself needs attention. Deep cleaning is essential to prevent any residual grape matter from spoiling the next vintage. All equipment—fermentation tanks, presses, sorting tables, pumps, hoses—undergo thorough sanitization. Additionally, barrels that are not in use must be properly cleaned and stored to prevent mold or other issues during the colder months.

Pruning and Training

Autumn is also a time for reflection and planning. While pruning primarily happens in the winter, autumn gives vineyard managers an opportunity to assess the overall structure and health of the vines. Observing how the vines performed during the growing season allows them to make informed decisions about which canes to prune and how to shape the vine’s growth for the following year.

Additionally, autumn is a good time to inspect and repair the vineyard’s trellising systems. Any broken posts or wires need to be fixed before the winter storms set in, as these structural components are crucial for supporting the vines through the next growing season.

Related Article: Winemaking in Spring: From Bud Break to Flowering

Related Article: Winemaking in Summer: How to Manage the Vines and Grapes

More Than Just the Harvest

Autumn is a season of transition in the vineyard and winery. While the harvest is undoubtedly the focal point, winemakers and vineyard managers must juggle a myriad of tasks to ensure that the vines are properly prepared for dormancy and that the wine begins its journey from fermentation to bottle. From the invisible maintenance of soil and vine health to the meticulous work inside the winery, autumn lays the groundwork for the success of the next vintage, proving that there’s far more to this season than simply picking grapes. Cheers 🍷

Cover photo credit: Brocken Inaglory, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons