Two Palates, One Passion—Uncorking Wisdom, One Article at a Time!

SOMM&SOMM

Category: Sommelier Studies

  • Exploring the World of Fortified and Oxidative Wines

    Exploring the World of Fortified and Oxidative Wines

    A Deeper Look at Six Pillars of the Style.

    Fortified wines, often overlooked or misinterpreted, carry centuries of craftsmanship, trade, and innovation. This article examines the six mainstream fortified and oxidative wines—Sherry, Port, Madeira, Marsala, Vermouth, and Rancio—exploring their histories, production methods, and cultural significance.

    Classic fortified wines with dessert – Photo by Benny Stu00e6hr on Pexels.com

    Sherry

    Spain’s Gift to the World

    Sherry, from Spain’s Andalusian region of Jerez, evolved from a local wine into a global phenomenon. The production process, under the watchful eye of a complex solera system, integrates new and old wines, lending Sherry its distinct, oxidative character. Sherry is traditionally classified into seven main styles: Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Oloroso, Palo Cortado, Cream, and Pedro Ximénez, each unique in flavor and aging methods.

    The Phoenicians first brought vines to Jerez around 1100 BC, and the wine became famous under the Moors, who fermented the grapes and distilled the resulting wines. Sherry’s popularity peaked in the 16th century when British sailors returned from the Battle of Cádiz with barrels, introducing it to English nobility. The lore of Sherry includes the belief that some soleras contain remnants from centuries past, connecting each bottle to a vibrant history of winemaking.

    SOMM&SOMM Related Article: Demystifying Wine: Sherry

    Port

    Portugal’s Legacy of Power and Complexity
    liz west from Boxborough, MA, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Port, originating in Portugal’s Douro Valley, became popular in England during the 1700s when English merchants, avoiding French wine, fortified their imports from Portugal. The production process involves adding aguardente (grape spirit) to halt fermentation and preserve natural sugars, creating a rich, full-bodied wine. Port comes in several styles, including Ruby, Tawny, Vintage, Late Bottled Vintage (LBV), and White Port, each with unique aging techniques.

    Port’s narrative includes the discovery of a legendary “blackstrap” port by English traders, who, having mistakenly over-fortified a shipment, found it sweeter and more robust. This unplanned discovery set the stage for Port’s sweet, fortified profile, which pairs seamlessly with blue cheeses and rich desserts.

    SOMM&SOMM Related Article: The History, Tradition, and Elegance of Port Wine

    Madeira

    An Island’s Fortuitous Wine

    Madeira’s story is one of survival and adaptability. Hailing from the island of Madeira, this wine was initially transported to tropical climates aboard ships, where the high temperatures “cooked” the wine. Instead of spoiling, it developed rich, complex flavors that fascinated European merchants. Modern Madeira winemaking replicates this process with the estufagem method, heating the wine to impart a caramelized complexity.

    Madeira wines – Frank Papenbroock, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Madeira styles range from Sercial (dry) to Malvasia (sweet), with Bual and Verdelho falling in between. The island’s volcanic soils and distinctive grape varieties create wines with flavors of dried fruits, caramel, and smoky nuts. Madeira’s resilience is legendary; it remains one of the few wines capable of enduring centuries of aging, with bottles from the 18th century still drinkable today.

    Marsala

    Sicily’s Sweet and Dry Treasure

    Marsala, named after the coastal town of Marsala in Sicily, gained international fame in the late 1700s when English merchant John Woodhouse fortified the local wine, preserving it for long voyages. Marsala production typically involves adding grape spirit to a wine blend and aging it in wooden casks. Marsala is classified into dry, semi-sweet, and sweet styles and further divided by aging categories such as Fine, Superiore, Vergine, and Riserva.

    Marsala lineup – Dedda71, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Marsala’s fame rose in the 19th century when it became a culinary staple, particularly in dishes like Chicken Marsala. Though overshadowed by its kitchen counterpart, fine Marsala wines offer complex notes of dried apricot, vanilla, and baking spices and can be enjoyed on their own as dessert wines.

    Vermouth

    Europe’s Aromatic Aperitif

    Vermouth, first created in 1786 by Antonio Benedetto Carpano in Turin, Italy, is an aromatized, fortified wine infused with botanicals like herbs, roots, and spices. Originally medicinal, vermouth evolved into a fashionable aperitif. The wine base is fortified with grape spirit and flavored with a unique blend of botanicals, which differ by brand and region. Sweet (red) and dry (white) are the primary styles, with modern variations including extra dry, amber, and rose.

    Vermouth and Quinquina bottles – Will Shenton, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Vermouth has become integral to cocktails such as the Martini and Manhattan, but it’s also enjoyed neat, served with a citrus twist. Its versatility is its charm, as it complements flavors across a range of dishes, from appetizers to rich desserts.

    SOMM&SOMM Related Article: Trendy Cocktails: The Manhattan

    Rancio Sec

    Catalonia’s Hidden Gem

    Rancio Sec, hailing from Catalonia and France’s Roussillon region, is an ancient, oxidative-style non-fortified wine aged in barrels exposed to sunlight, creating intense, nutty flavors. Rancio wines gain their distinct profile from long aging and exposure to air, often with traditional winemaking methods, including aging in open vats or glass demijohns.

    Domaine de Rombeau Rancio Sec aging outside in glass bonbonnes

    Aged between 5 and 100 years, Rancio Sec is not for the faint-hearted; it boasts concentrated flavors of roasted nuts, dark chocolate, and leather. The wine’s robust, rustic character pairs well with charcuterie and strong cheeses, and its rarity makes it a prized addition to any wine cellar.

    Here’s to the fortified and oxidative—those brave, enduring wines that weather time and hold their ground. In their layers of complexity and whispers of faraway lands, they remind us that beauty often lies in patience, character, and the willingness to age with grace. Raise a glass to the unsung alchemists of the wine world, whose depth and warmth bring history to the table with every sip!

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    Each of these fortified and oxidative wines carries the essence of its place, heritage, and historical journey. Rediscovering fortified wines reveals a world where winemaking and alchemy meet, offering layers of flavor that speak to their unique origins and cultural stories. Whether you’re savoring a glass of Sherry with tapas or exploring the bold, oxidative notes of Rancio Sec, fortified wines are a journey through history, tradition, and flavor awaiting deeper exploration. Cheers 🍷

    Cover photo by Christina Snyder, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

  • Uncorking the Wine Lovers of the World

    Uncorking the Wine Lovers of the World

    A Few Fun Personas.

    Ever wondered what your wine of choice says about you? Based on years of observing the nuances and quirks of wine drinkers and merging that with the persona-building precision of marketing (my day job for years 🙂), here’s a toast to the charming (and possibly recognizable) personas behind the glass. This is a lighthearted look at who you might be, based on the wines that make you swoon. Grab a glass, relax, and find yourself in these delightful characters!

    The Sauvignon Scholar

    Favorite Wines: Crisp Sauvignon Blancs, especially from New Zealand and California.

    These are the intrepid thinkers with an enthusiasm for data, facts, and just the right bit of zest. Much like their wine of choice, they’re sharp, refreshing, and (perhaps unknowingly) a little bit enlightening. The Sauvignon Scholar often relishes lively debates—think Socrates meets Martha Stewart, only with a cheese platter in hand.

    A Day in the Life:
    Mornings are organized to perfection. By 8 a.m., their coffee is measured to the gram, and a neatly lined spreadsheet tracks their to-dos. By lunchtime, they’re tackling the New York Times crossword (in ink, naturally). Evening? Time to uncork a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc and dive into a crime thriller—preferably one set in the vineyards of Marlborough. They dream of starting a true-crime podcast… if only their schedule allowed it.

    The Red Velvet Adventurer

    Favorite Wines: Rich, bold Cabernet Sauvignons and smooth Malbecs.

    The Red Velvet Adventurer is a lover of bold flavors and even bolder experiences. They might seem a bit mysterious at first (especially with that cabernet-colored scarf), but peel back a layer, and they’re the life of any gathering. Known to indulge in fascinating tales about “that one time in Argentina,” they’re passionate and deeply invested in everything they do.

    A Day in the Life:
    They’re up early, powering through a workout—HIIT or bust—before setting off on the day’s adventure. By 3 p.m., they’re browsing an art gallery or maybe booking a weekend escape to Napa. When evening arrives, they savor a Cabernet Sauvignon, pondering their next venture: skydiving? A pottery class? Either way, they’ll have a glass in hand and a story to tell.

    The Bubbly Connoisseur

    Favorite Wines: Champagne, Prosecco, and all things sparkling.

    The Bubbly Connoisseur brings lightness and enthusiasm wherever they go. Life is a celebration, and every day deserves a little sparkle—whether it’s a Tuesday evening or New Year’s Eve. Often the connector in a group, they’re everyone’s favorite person to sit next to at dinner because their laughter is as effervescent as their drink.

    A Day in the Life:
    9 a.m., they’re cheerfully greeting everyone at their Pilates class, followed by a jaunt to the farmers’ market for fresh blooms. By noon, they’re planning their next soiree—charcuterie boards, vintage glassware, the works. Come 5 p.m., they’re sipping Prosecco and FaceTiming their friends, insisting on “just one more glass!” because life, after all, should be filled with bubbles.

    The Pinot Noir Poet

    Favorite Wines: Delicate, nuanced Pinot Noirs, particularly those from Oregon or Burgundy.

    This gentle soul finds beauty in the subtle things and knows the magic of a perfectly aged vintage. They’re reflective, artistic, and a bit romantic, savoring life at a slower pace and appreciating the complexity of a Pinot as if it were a piece of art. Often seen journaling or strumming an acoustic guitar, they know how to bring calm to any storm.

    A Day in the Life:
    They start the day in contemplation, meditating with their rescue dog and journaling intentions for the day. Afternoons involve browsing a used bookstore or walking along a misty coast, enveloped in thoughts about the interconnectedness of life. By evening, they’re savoring a glass of Pinot Noir while working on their poetry collection. They’re convinced the wine tastes a bit better with jazz playing softly in the background.

    The Rosé Rejuvenator

    Favorite Wines: Refreshing rosés from Provence, but also curious about other light, vibrant varieties.

    With a well-developed knack for enjoying life’s simpler moments, the Rosé Rejuvenator is always on the hunt for “rosé all day” vibes. Effortlessly cool, they’re known for balancing work and play, and they’re often spotted brunching with friends or wandering in nature. They’re optimists with a talent for finding silver linings.

    A Day in the Life:
    Their morning begins with a matcha latte (iced, even in winter), a session of yoga, and a scroll through travel inspirations. Come afternoon, they’re making plans for a sunset picnic by the water, complete with a cooler stocked with their favorite rosé. They’re the friend who insists on taking a selfie with everyone, holding up a glass of rosé to capture the “golden hour” glow.

    The Organic Oenophile

    Favorite Wines: Biodynamic and natural wines, favoring unfiltered or small-batch varieties.

    A purist at heart, the Organic Oenophile values authenticity and transparency, whether it’s in their wine or their friendships. They’re well-versed in phrases like “zero-zero” and know the exact coordinates of their favorite vineyard. Earthy yet refined, they’re often mistaken for a philosopher or an off-duty vintner.

    A Day in the Life:
    The day begins with green juice and a stroll to the local co-op. Their afternoons involve perusing rare plant shops or making sourdough starter from scratch. As evening falls, they’re sipping on a cloudy orange wine, waxing poetic about sustainability. You’ll often find them hosting low-waste dinner parties where the only thing more interesting than the conversation is the wine.

    The Chardonnay Charmer

    Favorite Wines: Big, bold, buttery Chardonnays from Napa, but they’re not opposed to an unoaked Chablis either.

    The Chardonnay Charmer is warm, welcoming, and confident in their tastes. They’re often at the center of any group, offering wisdom, wit, and a knack for turning strangers into friends. At home, they have a cozy reading nook and an impressive assortment of stemware.

    A Day in the Life:
    They start their day by lighting a candle and enjoying a leisurely breakfast, even on weekdays. By 2 p.m., they’re organizing the book club or planning a brunch, complete with buttery Chardonnay pairings. When evening comes, they’re curled up with their favorite memoir and a glass of oaked Chardonnay, fully embracing each sip like a warm hug.

    Here’s to celebrating the wide world of wine lovers! Whether you’re a Sauvignon Scholar or a Rosé Rejuvenator, may your glass always be full, and may you continue to savor the little things that make each sip uniquely you. Cheers 🍷

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM
  • Demystifying Wine: Sherry

    Demystifying Wine: Sherry

    The Forgotten Gem: Understanding the Seven Types of Sherry Wine.

    Sherry wine, one of the world’s oldest and most storied styles, hails from the Jerez region in southern Spain. Known for its diversity and complex flavor profiles, Sherry has a bit of a reputation problem—often relegated to dusty shelves or seen as “grandma’s wine.” But for those in the know, Sherry offers a wide spectrum of styles, from bone-dry and briny to lusciously sweet, making it a remarkably versatile option for food pairings.

    Six types of Sherry (missing Cream Sherry): Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, Pedro Ximénez (PX)

    The Seven Styles of Sherry

    The beauty of Sherry lies in its remarkable range, produced under strict legal classifications that determine how the wine is aged, blended, and finished. Each type showcases distinct characteristics that can surprise even seasoned wine enthusiasts.

    Fino

    • Key Notes: Pale straw color, bone dry, light, and fresh.
    • Aging: Biological aging under flor.
    • Varietals: Palomino.
    • Characteristics: Fino is the lightest of the Sherries, with an alcohol content around 15-16%. It develops a unique layer of yeast called flor, which shields the wine from oxygen and gives it a tangy, almond-like flavor with a saline finish.
    • Food Pairing: Tapas, olives, almonds, and seafood like shrimp or oysters.

    Manzanilla

    • Key Notes: Similar to Fino but with a coastal brininess.
    • Aging: Biological aging under flor in the coastal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
    • Varietals: Palomino.
    • Characteristics: While technically a subset of Fino, Manzanilla has a distinct salty tang from the maritime influence, making it a touch lighter and zestier.
    • Food Pairing: Anchovies, salted fish, fried seafood, or sushi.

    Amontillado

    • Key Notes: Nutty, oxidative, and complex.
    • Aging: Starts under flor, then moves to oxidative aging.
    • Varietals: Palomino.
    • Characteristics: Amontillado begins its life as a Fino, aged under flor for a few years, but the yeast eventually dies off, allowing oxygen to interact with the wine. This adds layers of nuttiness, caramel, and dried fruit flavors.
    • Food Pairing: Grilled meats, mushrooms, or hard cheeses like aged Manchego.

    Palo Cortado

    • Key Notes: Mysterious blend of Fino and Amontillado characteristics.
    • Aging: Starts under flor, but undergoes early oxidative aging.
    • Varietals: Palomino.
    • Characteristics: Palo Cortado is the enigma of Sherry, often starting as a Fino or Amontillado but then evolving into something unique. It combines the finesse of Fino with the depth of Amontillado, offering flavors of hazelnuts, orange peel, and toffee.
    • Food Pairing: Duck, game birds, or rich stews.

    Oloroso

    • Key Notes: Bold, rich, and intensely oxidative.
    • Aging: Oxidative from the start.
    • Varietals: Palomino.
    • Characteristics: Oloroso Sherry is aged entirely without flor, allowing for complete exposure to oxygen. It is deeper in color with flavors of roasted nuts, toffee, leather, and dried fruits. With a higher alcohol content (17-20%), it’s one of the bolder Sherry styles.
    • Food Pairing: Lamb, aged cheeses, or roasted vegetables.

    Pedro Ximénez (PX)

    • Key Notes: Lusciously sweet, syrupy, with intense dried fruit flavors.
    • Aging: Oxidative aging.
    • Varietals: Pedro Ximénez.
    • Characteristics: PX Sherry is made from sun-dried Pedro Ximénez grapes, which concentrate the sugars and produce a deeply sweet, raisin-like wine. The wine is rich, with notes of figs, dates, molasses, and chocolate.
    • Food Pairing: Blue cheese, rich desserts, or even poured over vanilla ice cream.

    Cream Sherry

    • Key Notes: Sweet, smooth, often a blend of Oloroso with sweetened PX.
    • Aging: Oxidative aging, with blending.
    • Varietals: Palomino and Pedro Ximénez.
    • Characteristics: Cream Sherry is an approachable, sweetened version of Oloroso, designed to balance sweetness and nuttiness. It’s rich and smooth, often seen as a dessert wine.
    • Food Pairing: Chocolate cake, custards, or with fruit tarts.

    SOMM&SOMM Recommends: Sherry Tasting Trio with Tasting Video

    Solera at Bodegas Tío Pepe – El Pantera, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Solera System: The Art of Aging

    What sets Sherry apart from other wines is the Solera system, a fractional blending method that ensures consistency and complexity across vintages. In the Solera system, older wines are systematically blended with younger wines, creating a continuous aging process. Each year, a portion of the oldest wine is drawn off for bottling, while younger wines replenish the barrels, allowing the character of the wine to evolve gradually.

    This process creates a remarkable depth in Sherry, where wines are often aged for decades, taking on complex, layered flavors that reflect both the region’s history and the patience of its winemakers.

    Flor Aging – El Pantera, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Flor: A Yeast Like No Other

    The role of flor in Sherry production is critical, especially in lighter styles like Fino and Manzanilla. This yeast floats on the surface of the wine, protecting it from oxidation while contributing to the wine’s distinctive flavor profile. The salty, yeasty notes often associated with these styles are direct results of this biological aging. This technique is somewhat similar to the sur lie aging in Champagne, where wine is aged on the dead yeast cells, although sur lie focuses more on enhancing texture and brioche-like flavors.

    Sherry’s Image Problem

    So why is Sherry often overlooked? Part of the issue lies in its old-fashioned reputation. For years, Sherry has been pigeonholed as an “old person’s drink,” especially with the perception of sweet, cloying Cream Sherries that once dominated the market. But the dry styles, especially Fino, Manzanilla, and Amontillado, have so much more to offer. The complexity, versatility, and food-friendliness of these wines are woefully underappreciated.

    There’s also the fact that Sherry doesn’t fit neatly into most wine drinkers’ expectations. It’s not a light, easy-drinking white, nor is it a robust red. It occupies a unique space, which requires a more adventurous palate to fully appreciate.

    Sherry in Pairings: Rediscovering a Lost Art

    If you want to experiment with Sherry in your next wine pairing, consider going beyond the obvious. Here are some fresh ideas:

    • Fino or Manzanilla: These bone-dry, saline wines are fantastic with charcuterie, shellfish, and even sushi. The briny character complements the umami richness of seafood.
    • Amontillado: Try it with earthy mushroom dishes or rich pork belly. The nuttiness and depth of flavor create a fascinating interplay with these savory ingredients.
    • PX: Dessert wines often steal the show, but PX takes it to another level. Serve it with blue cheese or use it to top off a vanilla ice cream sundae for a memorable finish.

    The next time you’re hosting a pairing dinner, don’t shy away from including a Sherry. It’s a conversation starter, and with its range of flavors and styles, you can find a bottle that complements just about any dish. Maybe, just maybe, Sherry will finally earn the spotlight it deserves. Cheers 🍷

  • Raise a Glass and Lower the Volume

    Raise a Glass and Lower the Volume

    A Sommelier’s Take on Finding Common Ground.

    Election Day. For many, it’s a spirited occasion where, beyond casting a ballot, we’re practically swimming in strong opinions. But today, I propose we table those heated discussions about who’s right, who’s wrong, and who should be running the show. Instead, let’s toast to something undeniably delightful: wine—and the way it has this uncanny power to bring us together.

    In the wine world, I’ve found the best conversations happen over a shared bottle, with glasses clinking, eyes bright, and laughs rolling out easily. Sure, we don’t always agree. In fact, a roomful of sommeliers and wine enthusiasts debating wine pairings can sound a lot like Congress during a filibuster. But, thankfully, our discussions have a much friendlier vibe, and they end with a pleasant buzz rather than a buzzkill.

    So let’s treat our political conversations like we do wine pairings—let’s savor, listen, and respect each other’s “palates.”

    Photo by Julia Kuzenkov on Pexels.com

    Find Your “Common Ground” Grape

    No matter your personal politics, there’s probably a wine we can all rally around. Are you a staunch Pinot Noir person? A die-hard Chardonnay defender? Or maybe you’re a Sauvignon Blanc champion? Great! Wine is a versatile beverage that invites a multitude of opinions without any door-slamming. Whether we’re swirling a glass of Napa Cab or toasting with a sparkling Prosecco, there’s one beautiful truth: no two people experience a wine the same way, and that’s precisely the beauty of it.

    Finding a wine you both enjoy is like discovering common ground. If we can agree that a well-chilled rosé makes for a great afternoon, can we not also accept that there’s beauty in our differences?

    Active Listening, Wine Tasting Style

    A good wine tasting, much like a good conversation, starts with listening. When someone picks up hints of “stone fruit,” we don’t interrupt to say, “Actually, that’s citrus.” We listen, nod, and take another sip ourselves. Perhaps the same could be said about how we engage in dialogue on Election Day—give people room to share their perspective without trying to “correct” their taste.

    Wine, after all, is subjective. So are opinions. But both deserve to be heard and respected. If someone says they’re getting a lot of oakiness and spice, don’t laugh at their palate. Respect their experience! The same goes for our broader opinions. Just as a good Cabernet can be layered with spice, fruit, and earthiness, our conversations should be layered with curiosity, open-mindedness, and empathy.

    When in Doubt, Debate Wine

    Let’s face it: few things lift the spirits like a lively discussion about wine and food pairings. So instead of clashing over policies, let’s settle down and debate something that’s sure to end on a happy note: what’s the best pairing for Thanksgiving turkey? Or, if we’re feeling bold, what’s the ultimate cheese for a Friday night wine board? Let’s debate the merits of Napa over Sonoma, or whether a Chardonnay needs oak. I guarantee no one will be walking away mad; at worst, you’ll just be craving a cheeseboard.

    And if you do find yourself disagreeing, pour a little more. It’s hard to stay tense over a glass of Sancerre.

    Here’s to Election Day! May our patience last as long as the line at the polls, may our conversations stay as smooth as a good Merlot, and may our disagreements be as fleeting as that last sip in the bottle. Cheers to democracy and to finally voting on something other than what’s for dinner!

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    Respect Palates and Preferences

    Just as we all bring unique palates to the table, we bring unique perspectives. When I introduce someone to wine, I don’t judge if they like Moscato over Merlot, or insist they “have to try” a funky orange wine. Wine, like conversation, should be shared with an open mind.

    As we go about our day, casting votes and making choices, let’s treat each other with that same respect. Pour a glass, lean in, and let’s make today less about division and more about connection. And remember, at the end of the day, it’s not who’s right or wrong but who brought the best bottle! Cheers to that 🍷

    Cover photo by Sora Shimazaki on Pexels.com

  • Celebrating 36 Years of Love & Legacy: A Mondavi Affair

    Celebrating 36 Years of Love & Legacy: A Mondavi Affair

    In the world of wine, few stories intertwine celebration and life as deeply as that of Robert Mondavi. Reflecting this spirit, Scott and Alison White meticulously prepared every dish for their 36th anniversary celebration, a night that was as much about love and legacy as it was about Mondavi’s finest wines. It wasn’t just an evening of food and wine; it was a testament to the care, thought, and dedication that goes into creating something truly memorable—both in the kitchen and in life.

    We were honored to attend this grand affair, not only as guests but as fellow sommeliers, with a shared admiration for Robert Mondavi’s vision. The Whites’ attention to detail was evident in every course and pairing, their thoughtful preparation embodying Mondavi’s belief that “wine is part of the meal, part of life.” The elegant setting, draped in calming blue hues, was the perfect backdrop for an evening dedicated to celebrating love, friendship, and fine wine.

    Here’s to Scott and Alison, to 36 years of love, laughter, and legacy. Tonight, we raise our glasses not only to their enduring bond but to the friendships and memories that have grown alongside it. Just as a fine wine ages gracefully, deepening in complexity and richness, so too has their love—something we all cherish and celebrate. To many more years of shared joy, unforgettable moments, and, of course, incredible wine. Cheers!

    Gregory and Tammy Dean, SOMM&SOMM
    The lineup of Mondavi wines for the evening

    Welcome Appetizers: Hackleback Caviar, and Seared Ahi Tuna

    The evening began with an artfully curated selection of appetizers, each thoughtfully prepared by Scott and Alison. The briny Hackleback Caviar and the savory depth of Seared Ahi Tuna set the tone for the night. Zarmeena Khan, Wine Club and DTC Manager at Robert Mondavi Winery, introduced the 2021 The Estates Sparkling Wine from Napa Valley. Crisp, lively bubbles lifted the delicate brininess of the caviar, while its citrus and mineral backbone refreshed the palate after each bite of bruschetta and tuna. The Sparkling Wine, with its purity and precision, paid homage to Mondavi’s commitment to wines that speak to their terroir.

    First Course: Goat Cheese Salad

    Next came the Goat Cheese Salad—a delightful juxtaposition of creamy goat cheese, candied walnuts, and dried cranberries atop fresh field greens. Paired with the 2021 The Estates Fumé Blanc, the wine’s bright citrus and grassy aromatics danced beautifully with the tangy richness of the cheese. The salad brought out the best in the wine, which showcased Mondavi’s masterful touch in crafting Sauvignon Blanc. The acidity was a perfect foil to the creaminess, while its herbal notes mirrored the freshness of the greens. Scott and Alison’s careful attention to the balance of flavors and textures was on full display here, showcasing their passion for bringing out the best in every bite.

    Second Course: Tortellini Alfredo

    The richness of the Tortellini Alfredo, adorned with crumbled carrots, mushrooms, and broccoli, was a creamy indulgence. What elevated this dish to new heights was the pairing with the 1998 Mondavi Reserve Chardonnay from Carneros. Aged gracefully, this Chardonnay was an experience in itself—its nutty, buttery layers complementing the Alfredo’s creamy sauce, while a subtle acidity cut through the richness, leaving a balanced and refined finish. This wine is a testament to the longevity and evolution of Mondavi’s Chardonnays, as it still held onto a vibrancy that belied its years. Here’s Scott’s recipe (real-time commentary included 🙂

    Scott’s Creamy Dreamy Alfredo

    Pro Tip: If you’re adding veggies or protein (chicken, shrimp, etc.), cook those up first and set them aside. You’ll thank me later!

    • Olive oil (a drizzle—enough to make things sizzle)
    • ½ cup pancetta (finely minced—because pancetta makes everything better)
    • 8 large garlic cloves (minced super fine—seriously, garlic is life)
    • ½ cup butter (because we’re not counting calories today)
    • 1½ cups heavy cream (go big or go home)
    • 2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese (the good stuff—no shaky cans)
    • ½ teaspoon white pepper (for a subtle kick)
    • ½ teaspoon dried parsley (for that herby goodness)
    • ½ teaspoon Italian seasoning (because Italy, duh)
    • ¼ teaspoon nutmeg (adds a surprising twist)
    • ½ teaspoon garlic powder (yes, more garlic)

    Drizzle some olive oil in your favorite pan and toss in the pancetta. Cook it until it’s brown and crispy, like pancetta confetti. The smell? Heavenly.

    Add your minced garlic to the pan and let it brown a bit. Not too much—we want it golden, not burnt! This is where the magic happens. Toss in all those dried seasonings and give it a good stir. Set this mixture aside—it’s the soul of your Alfredo.

    In the same pan (don’t you dare wash it yet, all those flavors are gold!), melt that glorious butter. Once it’s melted and dreamy, slowly pour in the cream. Warm it up, but don’t let it boil—just a gentle simmer will do.

    Now, blend in that pancetta and garlic mixture you set aside. Stir it into the cream and butter until everything’s mingling beautifully.

    Slowly add in the Parmesan, stirring until it melts into the sauce like a cheesy hug. Keep stirring until the whole thing is smooth, creamy, and oh-so-inviting.

    Pro Serving Tip: Toss this with your favorite pasta (fettuccine is classic, but you do you!). Or pour it over sautéed veggies, grilled chicken, or shrimp. Finish with a little extra Parm on top, and maybe a sprinkle of parsley for that fancy touch.

    And voilà—Scott’s Alfredo, the perfect mix of creamy, garlicky goodness. You’re going to want seconds. Maybe thirds.

    Third Course: Lobster Bisque or Butternut Squash Soup

    As the third course was served, guests were given the option between an indulgent Lobster Bisque (prepared by Scott) or the comforting sweetness of Butternut Squash Soup (prepared by Russ Ahrens (Instagram: @drunkenchef82)). Both dishes were paired with the 2020 The Estates Chardonnay, a wine that stood confidently between the richness of the lobster and the subtle sweetness of the squash. Its balance of tropical fruit, creaminess, and acidity made it a versatile companion, harmonizing with both soups without overpowering the delicate flavors.

    Robert Mondavi’s legacy of elevating Chardonnay to an art form was ever-present in this pairing.

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    Fourth Course: Tuscan Chicken with Spaghetti

    Rustic yet elegant, the Tuscan Chicken with sausage, sun-dried tomatoes, spinach, and mushrooms was bold, hearty, and packed with flavor. The wine selected for this course was the 2021 The Estates Merlot from Oak Knoll. Known for producing beautifully structured Merlots, Oak Knoll gave this wine a ripe red fruit profile, complemented by soft tannins and earthy depth. Together, the dish and the wine became a duet—each bite of the savory chicken brought out the wine’s complexity, while the wine’s fruit-forward character rounded out the richness of the dish.

    Fifth Course: Charred Ribeye with Garlic Parmesan Mashed Potatoes

    For many, the charred ribeye was the highlight of the evening—a testament to Scott’s prowess and Russ’ skill in the kitchen. Served with garlic parmesan mashed potatoes, caramelized onions, and creamed spinach, this dish was a true labor of love. To honor such a decadent dish, we were treated to a vertical tasting of two Mondavi Cabernets—an exquisite 1988 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and a 1998 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon. The 1988 vintage showcased dark fruit, leather, and earth, while the 1998 brought a more developed cedar and tobacco profile. Both wines, despite their differences, elevated the ribeye, with their structure and layered complexity enhancing the meat’s char and the rich bordelaise sauce. This pairing was a reminder of Robert Mondavi’s belief that “wine should bring out the best in food, just as food should bring out the best in wine.”

    Dessert Medley: Cannoli Cake & Caramel Apple Pecan Cake

    The dessert medley was a celebration in its own right. The Cannoli Cake, creamy and sweet, was paired with the 2020 Moscato d’Oro—a wine that shimmered with floral and vibrant citrus notes. The wine’s sweetness balanced the richness of the cake, offering a light, refreshing finish to each bite. Meanwhile, the Caramel Apple Pecan Cake, spiced with warm caramel flavors, found its match in the 2018 Sauvito Sauvignon Blanc from Oakville. This wine, with its ripe fruit and honeyed tones, mirrored the caramel and pecan notes in the cake, making for a harmonious, indulgent end to the meal.

    Here’s to 36 more years of love, legacy, and Mondavi magic!

    Gregory and Tammy Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    As the night drew to a close, it was impossible not to reflect on the thoughtful preparation that had gone into every dish and wine pairing. Scott and Alison’s 36th anniversary was a celebration not only of their enduring love but also of the art and care they bring to every meal. It’s evenings like these that remind us why we gather around the table—to share stories, laughter, and, most importantly… to celebrate life’s greatest moments. 🍷

    Alison, Scott, and Alyssa White

    Be sure to check out the 35th Anniversary extravaganza featuring Chateau Montelena wines!

  • Domaine Carneros Sparkling Party

    Domaine Carneros Sparkling Party

    A Toast to Tradition and Togetherness.

    As a grand kickoff to Scott and Alison White’s week-long 36th-anniversary festivities, this year’s Sparkling Party brought together family and friends at Disney’s Boardwalk Resort for an evening overflowing with camaraderie, exquisite food, and the celebrated Domaine Carneros sparkling wines. This year’s feature: three impressive six-liter bottles of the 2017 Taittinger Domaine Carneros Brut, each bottle holding the lively energy and character that made it the evening’s “magic elixir.”

    Scott White sabers a bottle of Domaine Carneros

    Sabering the Sparkling: A Celebration in Every Strike

    Scott White, an aficionado of Napa’s finest wines, proudly opened the evening with a daring sabering of the first large-format bottle, a feat he performed for the first time, thrilling his guests. With Scott’s deft, confident strike, a burst of effervescence flowed as the cork and neck were swept away, marking a spirited beginning to the evening. Following in Scott’s footsteps were Brian Toung and Dima Semenski, who each took up the saber with both excitement and skill, making clean cuts that set the night’s festive tone. Their efforts epitomized the camaraderie and celebration that this party—and the art of sabering itself—so beautifully embody.

    Read about these three sabertiers: The Art and Ritual of Sabering Sparkling Wine: A Master Class

    A Sparkling Legacy

    The Domaine Carneros Brut, from the esteemed 2017 vintage, poured with an elegance that complemented the gathering’s lively spirit. Its fine mousse and balanced acidity elevated every bite, pairing especially well with the variety of appetizers thoughtfully prepared for the event. The Brut’s light brioche, citrus, and apple notes mingled with the menu, enhancing every pairing as each course was unveiled.

    A Feast for the Ages

    This year’s menu was a true banquet, carefully curated to pair harmoniously with the sparkling wines. The cold plates—shrimp cocktail, lump crab, and salmon crackers—offered a fresh, clean introduction, perfectly suited to the Brut’s zesty minerality. A charcuterie and cheese plate was rich in flavor, providing a range of textures and tastes that beautifully highlighted the wine’s toasty notes.

    The fruit platter, with ripe strawberries, juicy pears, and the indulgent blue cheese and candied walnut pairings, was a refreshing contrast to the sparkling wine’s crisp acidity. Caprese skewers and veggie plates kept the palate lively, while deviled eggs added a creamy, savory delight.

    The hot dishes were a masterpiece in their own right, showcasing beloved classics and a few surprises. Bacon-wrapped scallops, a crowd favorite, brought out the subtle smokiness in the Domaine Carneros Brut, while mini quiches with bacon and Swiss and savory onion and goat cheese phylo cups matched the wine’s complexity sip for sip. Brie and fig phylo cups, with their luxurious combination of creamy brie and sweet fig, proved to be another highlight alongside the sparkling wine’s effervescence.

    The Pompon sandwiches, featuring Argentinian sausage, and Pizza Piena, an Italian-style pie, added rich heartiness to the mix, a delightful pairing with the structured yet delicate bubbles of the Brut. Abundantly flavored dishes, such as stuffed mushrooms, pot stickers, and Spanish albondigas (meatballs), held their own next to the sparkling wine, creating a symphony of flavors that each sip of Domaine Carneros only heightened.

    Dessert and the Perfect Pairing

    To bring the evening to a sweet close, a stunning array of desserts was served alongside the Domaine Carneros Demi-Sec. The Demi-Sec, with its slight sweetness and softer acidity, was the ideal match for the variety of treats on offer. Each bite, from rich pastries to light fruit-based desserts, found its perfect complement in the Demi-Sec’s balanced sweetness, with flavors that lingered delicately on the palate.

    A Toast to the Sparkling Party

    As the night wound down, a few guests enjoyed glasses of Armagnac, raising a final toast to friendship, to Scott and Alison’s enduring love, and to the memories shared and created anew. With Domaine Carneros sparkling wine in hand and laughter filling the air, the evening was a testament to tradition, good company, and the pure joy of savoring exceptional wine and food in celebration of life’s finest moments. Cheers 🥂

  • The Art and Ritual of Sabering Sparkling Wine: A Master Class

    The Art and Ritual of Sabering Sparkling Wine: A Master Class

    The act of sabering—a tradition often accompanied by awe and anticipation—stems from a blend of history, skill, and sheer drama. When Scott White sabered his first bottle of Domaine Carneros Blanc de Blancs at the celebratory evening of his anniversary week, he carried on a tradition that dates back centuries. As Scott expertly removed the cork with a flourish, he set the stage for Dima Semenski and Brian Toung, both of whom followed his lead and celebrated their own first successful sabering of sparkling wine.

    Champagne! In victory, one deserves it; in defeat, one needs it

    Napoleon Bonaparte

    A Brief History of Sabering

    Sabering finds its roots in Napoleonic France. After the French Revolution, Napoleon Bonaparte and his cavalry celebrated victories by sabering bottles of champagne—a natural choice, as champagne’s association with celebration and triumph was already well-established. The use of a saber was both a convenient and symbolic choice for the soldiers, who found it easy to remove the cork while on horseback. Napoleon himself famously declared, “Champagne! In victory, one deserves it; in defeat, one needs it,” forever tying champagne with the joy and valor of his forces.

    The Technique of Sabering

    While sabering may seem like a dramatic display, it relies on the interplay between physics and precise technique rather than brute strength. Here’s a step-by-step guide to the process:

    1. Select the Right Bottle: Sabering works best with sparkling wines under high pressure, like champagne or quality California sparkling wines such as Domaine Carneros. The pressure inside (typically around 90 psi) helps to launch the cork cleanly when struck correctly.
    2. Chill the Bottle: A cold bottle is critical, as it helps to create a clean break. Ideally, the bottle should be chilled to around 45°F (7°C). I actually prefer the bottle to be chilled between 38°F and 45°F before immersing it inverted into an ice bath for about 30 minutes prior to sabering. The cold temperature prevents shattering by making the glass more brittle.
    3. Find the Seam: Every bottle has seams running vertically along opposite sides. The seam is a structural weakness, making it the ideal place to strike. Aligning the saber with the seam improves the likelihood of a smooth, even break.
    4. Prepare Your Saber: A proper saber has a blunt edge, though any heavy, blunt object (such as a chef’s knife) can work in a pinch. The key lies in a confident, smooth motion rather than a sharp edge.
    5. Angle the Bottle and Saber: Hold the bottle at a slight upward angle (around 45°) to keep the cork from ejecting downward. Position the saber just above the base of the bottle and prepare to slide it smoothly along the seam towards the neck.
    6. The Saber Strike: In a single fluid motion, slide the saber up the seam and hit the bottle’s lip where the neck meets the cork. The strike should be decisive but controlled. If done correctly, the cork and a small ring of glass should break away cleanly.
    7. Celebrate Responsibly: After the bottle has been sabered, the pour typically begins immediately. The rush of bubbles ensures that any loose glass is forced away from the neck.

    An Evening of Celebration: Scott’s First Sabering Experience

    At the Domaine Carneros sparkling wine kick-off party in the suite at Disney’s Boardwalk Inn, Scott’s first attempt at sabering marked a special moment. With his affinity for California wines, particularly those from the Napa region, Domaine Carneros was the perfect choice to ring in his anniversary celebration. Domaine Carneros Blanc de Blancs, known for its elegance and nuanced expression, sabered beautifully under Scott’s confident guidance.

    Scott’s demonstration inspired others, and soon Dima Semenski and Brian Toung followed suit, each achieving a clean break on their very first attempts. The trio’s successes underscored the power of skill, confidence, and a well-chilled bottle. Together, their sabering added an unforgettable touch to the evening, each sabered bottle a testament to the shared joy and expertise that sparkled as brightly as the wine itself.

    Brian Toung’s first (and certainly not his last) sabering a sparkling wine

    To those bold enough to take up the saber, to the friends and family who cheer them on, and to the sparkle that flows from every victorious strike—may we always have the courage to embrace tradition with flair, to celebrate with gusto, and to cherish the thrill of every new endeavor. Here’s to bravery, bubbles, and the memories we make with each daring attempt. Santé!

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    Sabering Today: A Timeless Tradition

    The tradition of sabering continues to enchant as a thrilling way to celebrate any occasion. Whether at a professional gathering or an intimate celebration, sabering has retained its power to elevate a moment into something truly memorable. As Scott, Dima, and Brian discovered, there is a camaraderie in sharing this time-honored ritual, bringing people together to toast the past and future with a perfectly sabered bottle of sparkling wine. Santé! 🥂

  • Pairing the Perfect Wine with Mediterranean-Inspired Mahi Mahi

    Pairing the Perfect Wine with Mediterranean-Inspired Mahi Mahi

    As a sommelier and wine educator, one of the greatest joys is the process of finding that perfect wine pairing—a marriage of flavors that elevates both the dish and the wine to new heights. Recently, I found myself in the SOMM&SOMM kitchen creating a Mediterranean-inspired Mahi Mahi dish, a vibrant, refreshing plate that marries the richness of seared Mahi with the brightness of tomatoes, garlic, lemon, and herbs. While the dish itself was flawless, it lacked one key component—a wine pairing to complete the culinary experience.

    Finding a wine that compliments the complex flavor profile of Mediterranean-inspired Mahi is no small task. The challenge is to enhance the delicate yet meaty texture of the fish while balancing the brightness of lemon, the earthiness of spinach, and the slight tang from the rice wine vinegar. Here’s the approach I took in seeking the perfect wine, with emphasis on harmony and contrast.

    Fresh Mahi (Coryphaena hippurus) – Bernard DUPONT from FRANCE, CC BY-SA 2 via Wikimedia Commons

    Understanding the Flavor Profile of Mahi Mahi

    Mahi Mahi is a mild, firm-textured fish, often compared to swordfish, but with a slightly sweeter note. When seared, it develops a wonderful crust that lends a subtle richness without overpowering its delicate natural flavor. In this recipe, the Mahi is complemented by fresh Mediterranean elements like spinach, cherry tomatoes, and basil. A burst of acidity from the lemon juice and rice wine vinegar adds brightness, while garlic and shallots contribute a subtle, savory depth.

    The key to this dish lies in the balance between the buttery, seared fish and the fresh, acidic sauce. The spinach, with its earthy notes, also adds a slight bitterness to round out the dish. When thinking about wine, we want to match this profile with something that has enough acidity to complement the lemon and vinegar while being gentle enough not to overpower the delicate fish.

    Choosing the Wine Based on Structure

    To find the perfect wine pairing, I first considered the structural elements of the dish:

    1. Acidity: The lemon juice, rice wine vinegar, and tomatoes introduce a vibrant acidity that brightens the dish. A wine with similar or higher acidity is crucial for balance. This eliminates wines that are too rich or too low in acid, such as heavily oaked Chardonnays or some New World reds.
    2. Body: Mahi Mahi is meaty but not overly fatty. A light- to medium-bodied wine would pair best, ensuring the fish remains the star. This points toward white wines or light reds that offer structure without overwhelming the plate.
    3. Flavor Intensity: The mild flavors of the fish and the herbaceous, savory notes from the basil, garlic, and shallots call for a wine that mirrors these flavors. We want herbal or citrus-forward whites, or even rosés, that will enhance these elements rather than compete with them.

    Considering Specific Pairings

    Based on the structure and flavors, the wine shortlist becomes more focused. Let’s explore some options.

    1. Vermentino – The Ideal Mediterranean Match

    Vermentino, a grape found in Italy’s Liguria and Sardinia as well as southern France (where it’s called Rolle), is an exceptional choice for this Mahi dish. It naturally offers bright acidity and minerality, which mirrors the fresh, coastal nature of the Mediterranean. With notes of citrus, herbs, and sometimes even a hint of salinity, Vermentino would enhance the lemon, basil, and garlic in the sauce. Its zippy acidity keeps it refreshing, while its medium body holds up to the richness of the seared fish.

    In particular, a Sardinian Vermentino, with its slight salinity and bracing minerality, would create a seamless connection with the coastal roots of the dish.

    SOMM&SOMM Recommends: 2022 Deperu Holler Fria Vermentino di Gallura Superiore

    2. Assyrtiko – A Greek Twist

    For those looking to explore less common wines, Assyrtiko from Santorini is another stellar option. This Greek varietal is known for its high acidity, crispness, and mineral-driven flavors. With notes of citrus, green apple, and a slight smokiness, it would harmonize beautifully with the acidity in the dish while offering enough backbone to stand up to the Mahi’s meaty texture.

    The volcanic soils of Santorini lend Assyrtiko an unmistakable minerality, reminiscent of the ocean breeze, which would echo the subtle salinity of the fish itself.

    SOMM&SOMM Recommends: 2023 Sigalas Santorini Assyrtiko

    3. Sauvignon Blanc – For a Herbaceous Touch

    A classic pairing for dishes with green, herb-driven elements, Sauvignon Blanc, particularly from the Loire Valley, offers both crisp acidity and aromatic complexity. The grassy, citrus-driven profile of Sauvignon Blanc would play beautifully with the basil, parsley, and spinach in the dish, while its clean, bright finish cuts through the butter and oil in the seared fish.

    Sancerre, from the Loire, with its precise minerality and racy acidity, would be a top pick in this category, although a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc would offer a more tropical, fruit-forward option for those who enjoy more pronounced flavors.

    SOMM&SOMM Recommends: 2023 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre

    4. Dry Rosé – A Fresh, Versatile Option

    For a more playful, yet equally complementary pairing, a dry Provençal rosé would be an excellent choice. With a balance of red fruit, herbal notes, and crisp acidity, rosé offers a bridge between the freshness of the tomatoes and the heartier elements of the fish and spinach. Its versatility makes it an approachable option, especially for a more casual date night setting.

    A rosé with hints of citrus, melon, and herbs would bring out the complexity of the dish without overwhelming its delicate balance.

    SOMM&SOMM Recommends: 2022 Domaines Ott Chateau Romassan Bandol Rose

    5. Albariño – A Spanish Take on Seafood

    Known for its seafood-friendly nature, Albariño from Spain’s Rías Baixas region is another ideal partner. With vibrant acidity, floral aromas, and flavors of lemon, green apple, and stone fruits, Albariño would heighten the citrusy elements in the dish while offering enough minerality to keep the palate refreshed. Its subtle salinity would also complement the fish’s natural flavor, creating a seamless blend of flavors from the sea and land.

    SOMM&SOMM Recommends: 2023 Bodegas Fillaboa Rias Baixas Albarino

    Experimenting with Contrasts

    While matching the wine to the dish’s flavor profile is the most common approach, contrasting pairings can also be quite rewarding. For this Mediterranean Mahi, a lightly chilled, red Pinot Noir or Gamay from Beaujolais could work surprisingly well. These wines are light-bodied enough not to overpower the fish but offer red fruit and earthy notes that would contrast and enhance the sweetness of the cherry tomatoes and the earthiness of the spinach. The low tannin structure in both wines would ensure that they don’t clash with the delicate fish, but the slight chill adds freshness and lift to the pairing.

    The Art of the Perfect Pairing

    At its core, pairing wine with food is an art, an ever-evolving exploration of flavors, textures, and sensations. The Mediterranean-inspired Mahi dish presents a beautiful canvas, one that can be enhanced by a range of wines depending on the mood of the evening or the personal preferences of the diner. Whether you opt for the crisp minerality of Vermentino, the herbal elegance of Sauvignon Blanc, or the versatility of rosé, the key lies in understanding the balance of acidity, body, and flavor intensity.

    For your next date-night meal, take the time to savor the exploration. Whether you choose a wine that mirrors the flavors of the dish or one that introduces a delightful contrast, the joy is in the discovery—an experience that, as a sommelier, I find endlessly rewarding. Cheers 🍷

    Want the recipe for this dish? Drop me a line greg@sommandsomm.com

  • The Wine Lover’s Foggy Memory

    The Wine Lover’s Foggy Memory

    St-Émilion and the Grande Classe ‘A’ Quandary.

    Ah, the joys of being a sommelier. You walk into a tasting event, confident in your knowledge, fully armed with years of wine education. You’ve mastered the intricacies of the Médoc’s growths, can identify a Bordeaux blend just by its nose, and could recite, in order, the prestigious First Growths of the Left Bank even after a few glasses. But then, the moment strikes—a fellow wine lover looks you square in the eye and asks: “What are the remaining Grande Classe ‘A’ wineries of Saint-Émilion?”

    Cue blank stare. The mental Rolodex is spinning, searching for answers, but all that comes up is a faint memory of Château Pavie and Château Angélus. Then… nothing. Not a flicker. Suddenly, the mind is playing tricks, and you’re left wondering if your years of dedication to wine knowledge have been vanquished by a mere swirl and sniff.

    It happens to the best of us—especially when wine is involved 😉

    Even if your memory temporarily betrays you, there’s always the glass in hand to bring you back to the essence of it all—experiencing the beauty of wine.

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    When the Mind Goes Blank

    Being a sommelier means juggling a lot of information—appellations, classifications, grape varieties, winemaking methods, soil types, vintages, and wine laws from every nook and cranny of the world’s great wine regions. We pride ourselves on our expertise, yet sometimes, in the haze of swirling glasses and gentle tannins, the simplest facts can elude us.

    Now, this wouldn’t be so embarrassing if it was something arcane, like obscure subregions in Uruguay, but Saint-Émilion? Grande Classe ‘A’? One of the most celebrated and debated regions of Bordeaux? This is common knowledge!

    The truth is, even the most seasoned professionals can falter. Whether it’s the excitement of the moment, the friendly banter, or perhaps a few sips too many, our brains are prone to the occasional misfire. In this particular case, Saint-Émilion’s classification system does have a habit of making things slightly more complicated than other Bordeaux regions.

    Saint-Émilion winery – davitydave, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

    Saint-Émilion’s Ever-Changing Landscape

    Unlike the Left Bank’s rigid 1855 classification, Saint-Émilion’s system is… a bit of a moving target. Every 10 years or so, the classification is revised. This sounds great on paper—wineries are rewarded for their efforts to improve their wines. However, in practice, this has led to quite a bit of controversy.

    Wineries move up, others move down, and lawsuits abound. To top it off, some châteaux have even started rejecting their rankings altogether! For example, in the most recent shuffle, both Château Angélus and Château Ausone bowed out of the classification system after years of disputes, leaving only Château Pavie and Château Figeac as the remaining Grande Classe ‘A’ wineries.

    It’s no wonder I had a momentary lapse! Keeping track of the shifting players in this drama can be like trying to navigate a maze.

    The Current State of Saint-Émilion’s Classifications

    Let’s take a moment to redeem ourselves. Saint-Émilion’s classification was first introduced in 1955, with the goal of providing more dynamism and rewarding quality improvements over time. It’s revised approximately every decade, a factor that keeps things both interesting and, well, confusing.

    The classification has three main tiers:

    • Premier Grand Cru Classé A (the top tier)
    • Premier Grand Cru Classé B
    • Grand Cru Classé

    The 2022 classification, which stirred up a bit of controversy, left us with only two Premier Grand Cru Classé A wines: Château Pavie and Château Figeac—a reduction from four, following the voluntary withdrawal of Château Angélus and Château Ausone from the ranking system.

    At the next level, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, you’ll find well-respected names such as:

    • Château Troplong Mondot
    • Château Canon
    • Château La Gaffelière
    • Château Beau-Séjour Bécot

    These producers consistently create wines of incredible depth, structure, and aging potential.

    Then, there’s the broader Grand Cru Classé category, with over 60 producers representing a wide spectrum of styles. These wines are celebrated for their quality, but they don’t quite reach the lofty heights of the Premier Grand Cru Classé estates.

    When In Doubt, Enjoy the Moment

    Saint-Émilion is not just about the status or classifications, it’s about a love of the vine and the passion that goes into each bottle. The wines from this region, especially the Merlot-dominant blends, express a deep sense of place.

    So next time someone asks about Saint-Émilion’s Grande Classe ‘A’ estates and your mind draws a blank, take comfort in knowing that even a sommelier’s brain can be clouded by the grape. Just don’t forget to refill your glass and enjoy the journey back through the vineyards of Bordeaux. Cheers🍷

  • The Evolution of Tertiary Notes in Wine

    The Evolution of Tertiary Notes in Wine

    Tertiary notes in wine arise through bottle aging, bringing depth and complexity as a wine matures. These notes offer a glimpse into the evolution of flavors that go beyond the fruit and winemaking, revealing the passage of time.

    Photo by Ion Ceban @ionelceban on Pexels.com

    What Are Tertiary Notes?

    Tertiary characteristics develop after the wine has been bottled and allowed to age. This stage is often where the magic happens, as the wine’s primary and secondary notes begin to fade, and more complex, earthy, and savory elements take center stage. Tertiary notes reflect oxidation, maturation, and the slow chemical changes that occur as the wine ages.

    Key Influences on Tertiary Notes

    Aging Time

    • Extended aging allows the fruit to mellow, revealing deeper, more nuanced flavors.
    • Red wines, in particular, develop dried fruit, leather, tobacco, or forest floor notes as they mature.

    Oxidation

    • Over time, exposure to small amounts of oxygen helps develop nutty or savory notes. This is especially true for wines aged under cork.

    Bottle Conditions

    • The storage environment—temperature, light, humidity—can significantly influence the development of tertiary notes.
    Examples of Tertiary Aromas
    • Dried Fruit: As the wine ages, fresh fruit aromas evolve into dried fig, raisin, or prune, particularly in red wines like Amarone or aged Port.
    • Earthy/Savory: Leather, tobacco, forest floor, truffle, or mushroom are common in well-aged wines like Barolo or Rioja Gran Reserva.
    • Nutty/Caramelized: Especially common in oxidative wines like Sherry or Madeira, these notes include walnut, almond, toffee, or caramel.

    Identifying Tertiary Notes in Wine

    To recognize tertiary notes, time and patience are key:

    1. Smell for Depth: Aged wines will have a more subdued, nuanced aroma. Instead of fresh fruit, you may detect dried fruit, leather, or tobacco.
    2. Taste for Mellow Flavors: A well-aged wine will have softer tannins, less pronounced acidity, and flavors that reflect the earth or savory elements.
    3. Look for Color Change: Red wines develop a brick or garnet hue, while whites darken into golden amber tones, signaling the presence of tertiary characteristics.

    As wine ages, it transcends its origins, offering a complex symphony of evolved flavors—where dried fruit, earth, and time-worn elegance come together in harmony, leaving behind the vigor of youth for the wisdom of age.

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    By understanding the progression from primary to secondary and tertiary notes, wine enthusiasts can fully appreciate the transformative journey a wine takes, unlocking new layers of complexity at each stage. Cheers 🍷