Category: Wine Regions

  • The 75-85-95 Rule

    The 75-85-95 Rule

    How Much Wine is Actually in Your Wine?

    There is a moment every wine lover eventually experiences.

    You pick up a bottle of California Cabernet Sauvignon. The label says Napa Valley. The wine looks serious. The price looks even more serious. You assume you know what is in the bottle.

    Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. From Napa Valley.

    And you would be right.

    Mostly.

    Welcome to the wonderfully precise—and occasionally maddening—world of wine labeling laws.

    toast of wine glasses
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    The good news is that American wine-labeling regulations are not designed to deceive consumers. They are designed to establish a legal threshold for what a winery can call a wine. The slightly less comforting news is that those thresholds leave room for other grapes, other places, and other vintages to join the party.

    For wine drinkers who care about what is actually in the glass, three numbers are worth remembering:

    75%. 85%. 95%.

    They are not arbitrary numbers. They are legal thresholds under U.S. wine-labeling regulations, and understanding them makes reading a wine label considerably more interesting.

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    The 75% Rule: “Cabernet Sauvignon” Doesn’t Necessarily Mean 100% Cabernet

    Wait…, What?

    Let’s start with the number that causes the most confusion.

    Under federal regulations, a California wine—or any American wine—may generally identify a single grape variety on the label if at least 75% of the wine is derived from that grape. The qualifying portion must also come from the stated appellation of origin.

    So a bottle labeled:

    Cabernet Sauvignon

    could legally contain:

    And the label can still legally call the wine Cabernet Sauvignon.

    Nothing nefarious happened. No sommelier needs to call the wine police.

    The remaining 25% simply does not have to be disclosed as part of the mandatory varietal designation.

    That distinction matters.

    The law establishes what a winery may call the wine, not necessarily everything that went into the tank.

    There are two exceptions to the normal 75% threshold: wines made from qualifying Vitis labrusca varieties, and wines made from varieties that TTB determines to be too strongly flavored for the 75% minimum, may use the varietal name at 51% or more. In those cases, the label must state ‘contains not less than 51% [variety].’

    For most of the familiar noble varieties, however, 75% is the number to remember.

    welcome billboard in napa valley in california in usa
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    The 85% Rule: Welcome to the AVA

    Now we get to the geography.

    If a wine carries an American Viticultural Area—an AVA—on the label, at least 85% of the wine must be derived from grapes grown within that AVA.

    That means a wine labeled:

    Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

    is subject to two separate thresholds:

    Cabernet Sauvignon: at least 75%
    Napa Valley grapes: at least 85%

    Those numbers address different questions.

    The first tells us how much of the wine must be Cabernet Sauvignon.

    The second tells us how much of the wine must come from Napa Valley.

    And that creates an interesting little mathematical wine puzzle.

    Imagine a Napa Valley Cabernet labeled under the federal minimums. The wine could contain 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, while 85% of the total wine comes from Napa Valley.

    The regulations do not require the entire 85% Napa component to be Cabernet Sauvignon.

    In other words, the label tells you something important—but not everything.

    This is one reason experienced wine professionals pay attention to the combination of varietal designation and appellation, rather than treating either one as a complete ingredient list.

    And there is another wrinkle: the 85% AVA requirement concerns where the grapes were grown, not that every grape in the bottle came from the named AVA. Up to 15% can come from outside the AVA while the wine retains the AVA designation, provided the other requirements are met.

    That sounds like a loophole.

    Legally, it isn’t.

    It is the rule.

    a vineyard in the valley
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    And Then There Is 95%

    The 95% figure gets particularly interesting.

    If a wine uses the name of a specific vineyard, orchard, farm, or ranch having geographical or viticultural significance, federal regulations generally require at least 95% of the wine to have been produced from primary winemaking material grown on that named property.

    So our three numbers now look something like this:

    What the label tells youMinimum requirement
    Single grape variety75%
    Named AVA85%
    Named vineyard/property95%

    There is another important 95% rule that wine lovers should know: when a wine carries a vintage date and a viticultural-area appellation, at least 95% of the wine must come from grapes harvested in that labeled year. If the wine uses a non-viticultural-area appellation, the vintage threshold is generally 85%.

    So if you see:

    2023 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

    you are looking at three different legal concepts:

    • At least 75% Cabernet Sauvignon.
    • At least 85% from Napa Valley.
    • At least 95% from the 2023 harvest.

    The label is telling you quite a lot.

    But it still isn’t giving you the recipe.

    So Could a “Cabernet Sauvignon” Contain Merlot?

    Absolutely.

    And this is where the rules become useful rather than alarming.

    California Cabernet has a long history of blending with other Bordeaux varieties. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec can all contribute structure, aroma, color, texture or balance.

    A winery could produce a wine that is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot and label it simply Cabernet Sauvignon.

    That is perfectly legal.

    But if the winery chooses to put Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot on the label as the varietal designation, the rules change dramatically.

    When two or more grape varieties are named as the wine’s varietal designation, 100% of the grapes must be from the listed varieties, and the percentage of each must be stated on the label, subject to a ±2% tolerance.

    So:

    Cabernet Sauvignon

    could contain undisclosed other varieties.

    But:

    Cabernet Sauvignon 80%
    Merlot 20%

    accounts for the entire blend.

    That is a very useful distinction when reading a label.

    Is This Just an American Thing?

    No.

    Wine-producing countries around the world have developed their own systems for dealing with varietal and geographic labeling, and several use thresholds that look remarkably familiar.

    The details, however, can be quite different.

    European Union: Another 85% Threshold

    Under EU rules, when a single wine grape variety is named on a wine label, generally at least 85% of the product must be made from that variety. When two or more grape varieties are named, 100% of the wine must be made from those varieties, and they must appear in descending order of proportion.

    That means the European approach can actually provide a little more varietal specificity than the U.S. federal minimum.

    But there is an important caveat.

    European wines are also governed by protected designations of origin, protected geographical indications, national regulations and individual appellation rules. A Barolo, for example, is not simply subject to a generic European “85% rule.” The rules of its specific appellation matter.

    In Europe, geography can be every bit as important as grape variety.

    Sometimes more important.

    bottle and a glass of red wine
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    Australia: Another Familiar Number

    Australia also uses an 85% threshold for single-variety labeling. Under Australian wine regulations, a wine made from two or more varieties can be described as a single variety when at least 850 mL/L—85%—comes from that variety. If multiple varieties are named, they must be listed in descending order, and the named varieties collectively must account for at least 85% of the wine. Each named variety must also be present in greater proportion than any variety that is not named.

    That last requirement is particularly interesting.

    Imagine:

    Cabernet Sauvignon 70%
    Merlot 20%
    Petit Verdot 10%

    Australia’s labeling rules allow the named varieties to account for the required 85%, but the naming order matters and an omitted variety cannot exceed a named variety.

    Again, the law is trying to strike a balance between practical winemaking and consumer information.

    New Zealand: 85%, With an Interesting Twist

    New Zealand also applies an 85% rule to variety, vintage and area-of-origin claims.

    But New Zealand’s guidance makes the consumer-protection intent especially clear: if a wine makes a claim about varieties, the named varieties must collectively represent at least 85%, must be listed in descending order, and a producer cannot name two varieties while leaving out another variety that represents a greater percentage than one of the named varieties.

    So a hypothetical wine containing:

    75% Cabernet Sauvignon
    15% Pinotage
    10% Merlot

    could not simply be presented as “Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot,” because Pinotage is present at a higher percentage than Merlot.

    That is a fascinating contrast with the U.S. system.

    Different countries are solving the same problem in different ways:

    How much information does a consumer reasonably expect from a varietal name?

    a person holding a glass of wine
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    The Important Word Is “Minimum”

    This is where wine enthusiasts can get themselves into trouble.

    The legal threshold is a minimum, not an average and certainly not a target.

    A Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon might be:

    • 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
    • 95% Cabernet Sauvignon
    • 85% Cabernet Sauvignon
    • 75% Cabernet Sauvignon

    All could potentially carry the same basic varietal designation.

    And the wine could taste dramatically different.

    The law doesn’t tell us whether the winemaker chose to blend 5% Merlot because it improved the wine, because it corrected a difficult vintage, because it was traditional, or because the winemaker simply liked the result.

    Those are winemaking decisions.

    The label law merely establishes what can be printed on the bottle.

    That is why “legal” and “transparent” are not necessarily synonyms.

    A winery can comply completely with the law while still leaving the curious drinker wanting more information.

    person typing
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    How Can You Find Out What Is Actually in the Bottle?

    This is where things get fun.

    You don’t need to become a wine detective with a trench coat and a magnifying glass.

    You just need to know where to look.

    1. Start With the Winery

    The winery’s website is usually your best first stop.

    Look for:

    • Technical sheets
    • Vintage notes
    • Wine specifications
    • Composition
    • Blend percentages
    • Vineyard sources
    • Appellation information
    • Winemaker notes

    Many producers voluntarily disclose much more than the law requires.

    And if you are particularly interested in a wine, send the winery an email.

    Ask a simple question:

    “Could you tell me the varietal composition of the current vintage?”

    You might be surprised how often someone will answer.

    2. Look Beyond the Front Label

    The back label can contain valuable clues.

    Some producers voluntarily list the blend. Others mention vineyard sources, individual blocks, cooperage, harvest dates or production details.

    And remember: if multiple varieties appear as the formal varietal designation, the percentages must be disclosed.

    But a marketing description of grapes on a back label can be treated differently from the formal varietal designation. TTB has specifically addressed circumstances in which wineries may voluntarily list varieties as additional information, provided the information is truthful and not misleading.

    So don’t assume every grape name printed somewhere on a bottle carries exactly the same legal meaning.

    3. Scan the QR Code

    Increasingly, wineries are putting detailed information behind QR codes.

    Sometimes that takes you to marketing material.

    Sometimes it takes you to a remarkably detailed technical sheet.

    When it does, look for the blend composition, not merely the tasting notes.

    “Expressive aromas of blackberry, violet and graphite” tells you what the wine tastes like.

    “Cabernet Sauvignon 82%, Merlot 10%, Petit Verdot 8%” tells you what it is.

    Those are two very different kinds of information.

    4. Ask Your Sommelier or Wine Merchant

    This is perhaps the easiest method.

    a man holding a wineglass
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    A good sommelier, wine educator or knowledgeable retailer will often have access to distributor sheets, winery technical information or importer documentation that never makes it onto the bottle.

    And if they don’t know?

    A good answer is:

    “I don’t know, but I’ll find out.”

    That’s better wine service than inventing an answer.

    5. Search the TTB Public COLA Registry

    Here is the slightly nerdier—and wonderfully useful—option.

    The U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau maintains a Public COLA Registry, where consumers can search approved wine labels. The database contains approved, expired, surrendered and revoked Certificates of Label Approval, and label images are generally available for approvals dating back to 1999. No registration is required.

    The registry can sometimes reveal label information that isn’t immediately obvious from the bottle sitting in front of you.

    There is an important limitation, however: the public COLA system does not provide the winery’s complete formula.TTB itself notes that formula information is not available publicly through the registry.

    So the COLA Registry can help answer:

    “What did the government approve this label to say?”

    It cannot necessarily answer:

    “Exactly how many gallons of Merlot went into this tank?”

    For that, you still need the winery.

    A Sommelier’s Trick: Read the Label as a Set of Questions

    Instead of looking at a wine label and asking, “What is this?”

    Try asking:

    What is the grape?

    If one grape is named, remember the 75% U.S. threshold.

    Where is it from?

    If an AVA is named, remember 85%.

    Is a specific vineyard named?

    Think 95%.

    What vintage is it?

    With an AVA on a U.S. wine, think 95% from that harvest year.

    Are multiple varieties listed?

    In the United States, if they are being used as the formal varietal designation, they must account for 100% of the blend and the percentages must be shown.

    Then ask the most important question:

    What isn’t the label telling me?

    That is where wine gets interesting.

    colorful wine bottles displayed on wooden rack
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    The Label Is a Map, Not a Recipe

    Wine labels were never designed to be complete ingredient panels.

    They are a combination of legal requirements, geographic identity, marketing, tradition and storytelling.

    The law gives us useful guardrails. It tells us that a Napa Valley wine cannot contain 50% grapes from somewhere else and still casually call itself Napa Valley. It tells us that a bottle labeled Cabernet Sauvignon must contain a substantial majority of Cabernet Sauvignon. It tells us that a named vineyard has an even higher threshold.

    But those numbers also remind us that a bottle labeled Cabernet Sauvignon does not necessarily mean 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

    And that is not necessarily a bad thing.

    Blending is one of the great tools of the winemaker.

    A few percent of Petit Verdot can deepen a Cabernet’s color and structure. Merlot can soften the edges. Cabernet Franc can add aromatic lift. A touch of another grape can turn a good wine into a great one.

    The real issue isn’t that blending exists.

    It’s whether we understand what the label actually promises.

    So the next time you pick up a California Cabernet, don’t squint suspiciously at the bottle as though it has something to hide.

    Give it a little credit.

    The label is telling you the truth.

    It just may not be telling you the whole story.

    And in wine, as in life, that is often where the fun begins 🍷

    The Fine Print: Our Sources

    Wine-labeling laws are anything but casual, so we went straight to the source. The varietal, appellation, vintage, and 51% labeling thresholds discussed in this article are based on regulations and guidance published by the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB).

    Primary Sources

    SOMM&SOMM Note: Wine laws evolve, and individual appellations may impose requirements more restrictive than federal minimums. The regulations cited above reflect the federal framework applicable to American wine labeling. When in doubt about what is actually in the bottle, ask the producer. The label may tell you what the law requires. The winemaker can tell you the rest of the story.

    Cover Photo by Elijah Cobb on Pexels.com

  • The Fourth Wine of Summer

    The Fourth Wine of Summer

    The Wine We Know and the Wine We Understand.

    Some wines enter our lives through study. Others arrive through experience. Occasionally, if we are lucky, they arrive twice.

    For years, Tavel lived comfortably in the first category for me.

    As a sommelier student and throughout various wine courses and certifications, I learned the facts well enough. I knew that Tavel was one of France’s historic rosé appellations tucked into the Southern Rhône. I knew that its vineyards sat just west of Avignon and that its proximity to the papal court had earned it the nickname The Wine of Popes. Most intriguingly, I knew that generations of growers referred to it as The Fourth Wine.

    White wine.

    Red wine.

    Rosé.

    And then Tavel.

    Photo by Véronique PAGNIER, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    It was a wonderful phrase, and one that stayed with me long after the examinations were complete. I understood what the textbooks were telling me. I understood why the region mattered historically. I understood the rules, the grapes, and the geography.

    What I had not yet done was understand the wine itself.

    When the Textbooks Finally Made Sense

    That changed recently during a tasting with a wine representative.

    There was no grand lesson attached to the bottle. No discussion of papal history. No stories of medieval vineyards basking beneath the Provençal sun. For him, it was simply another wine in the portfolio and another bottle to pour as we worked our way through the lineup.

    Then came the first sip.

    Suddenly, years of study became experience.

    The textbooks made sense.

    Photo by jean-louis Zimmermann, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The color was the first clue. This was no pale, fleeting rosé designed to disappear into a sunny afternoon beside the pool. The wine arrived in shades of ruby grapefruit and watermelon with a depth that immediately demanded attention.

    Then came the texture.

    This was the part the study guides had struggled to convey.

    There was weight here. Structure. Presence. The wine carried itself with confidence while retaining the freshness and energy that make rosé such a natural companion for warm weather. It possessed some of the refreshment of white wine and some of the culinary versatility of red wine while refusing to fully become either one.

    For the first time, I understood why the growers of Tavel had spent centuries insisting that their wines belonged in a category all their own.

    The Fourth Wine was not a romantic expression.

    It was an honest description.

    The Fourth Wine

    The history of Tavel stretches back much further than most drinkers realize.

    The Romans cultivated vineyards here. Kings favored its wines. Writers praised them. Yet somehow Tavel has remained quietly in the background while other regions captured the spotlight and the headlines.

    Perhaps that is part of its charm.

    The wines of Tavel have never seemed particularly interested in trends.

    Unlike many rosé-producing regions, Tavel dedicates itself entirely to rosé. There are no red wines carrying the appellation’s name and no whites sharing the stage. The village has spent generations refining a single expression and doing so with remarkable confidence.

    Photo by levork (Julian Fong), CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Grenache typically forms the backbone of the blend, supported by Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and several other Rhône varieties. Depending on the producer, aromas may move through wild strawberry, raspberry, blood orange, dried herbs, lavender, and occasionally a touch of white pepper or stone.

    The Mediterranean seems to find its way into the glass.

    What separates Tavel, however, is not simply flavor.

    It is presence.

    This is rosé with shoulders.

    palais des papes at sunset in avignon france
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    The Wine of Popes

    History only makes the story better.

    A short distance away sits Avignon, where the papacy established residence during much of the fourteenth century. For nearly seventy years, the center of the Catholic world shifted from Rome to southern France, and the vineyards surrounding the city found themselves supplying wine to one of the most influential courts in Europe.

    The wines of Tavel quickly found favor at the papal table.

    One can understand why.

    These were not delicate rosés intended solely for aperitif service. They possessed the structure to accompany roasted meats, game, herbs, and the rich cuisine of medieval France. They were substantial wines built for the table and for conversation.

    The title Wine of Popes followed naturally.

    One suspects there were worse endorsements available in fourteenth-century Europe.

    delicious charcuterie board with cheese and fruits
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    Built for the Summer Table

    What surprised me most, however, was not the history or even the profile of the wine.

    It was the versatility.

    delicious grilled chicken with green peppers
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    Tavel may be one of the most naturally food-friendly wines I have encountered in recent years. The structure that once appealed to the papal courts of Avignon remains every bit as relevant today. Seafood, roasted poultry, grilled pork, Mediterranean vegetables, charcuterie, herb-driven cuisine, and even lighter preparations of lamb all seem perfectly comfortable in its company.

    That breadth is unusual.

    Many summer wines excel in very specific situations. Tavel feels less restrictive. It occupies a fascinating middle ground, carrying enough freshness for warm weather while offering enough substance to engage with a remarkably wide range of foods.

    It refreshes without disappearing beneath food.

    It offers character without heaviness.

    It feels substantial without ever becoming serious business.

    A Place in the Rotation

    Perhaps that explains why I have found myself recommending it repeatedly this summer.

    More accurately, it explains why I recently decided that it deserves a place in the regular summer rotation.

    As sommeliers and wine students, we encounter remarkable wines every year. Some impress us. Some educate us. Some earn our admiration from a distance.

    Only a handful quietly begin making plans of their own.

    Tavel has become one of those wines for me.

    Not because it is elusive.

    Not because it carries centuries of history.

    Not because popes once enjoyed it.

    Those details certainly add to its charm.

    It earned its place because it performs the difficult balancing act that so many summer wines attempt and so few achieve. It brings refreshment to the season while retaining the structure and personality that make wine interesting in the first place.

    Most importantly, it leaves me wanting to share the discovery.

    Curiously, I have not yet done so.

    The bottles I have opened so far have been educational encounters rather than communal ones. Friends and family have yet to be introduced to this small corner of the Southern Rhône and its centuries-old argument for becoming wine’s fourth category.

    That moment will come.

    Some wines invite admiration.

    Others invite conversation.

    Tavel feels very much like the latter.

    For now, it remains a recent curiosity and an unexpected favorite, quietly earning its place among the bottles most likely to find their way into the refrigerator as Florida settles into the long warmth of late summer.

    Not a new discovery.

    A new understanding.

    Sometimes that is even better 🍷

    Cover photo by Véronique PAGNIER, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

  • Varietal Spotlight: Torrontés

    Varietal Spotlight: Torrontés

    Argentina’s Perfumed Secret and the White Wine of Early Summer.

    When most wine lovers think of Argentina, the mind immediately drifts toward towering Andes vineyards, sizzling parrilladas, and plush, dark-fruited Malbec. For decades, Malbec has served as Argentina’s global ambassador — bold, seductive, and unmistakably linked to the country’s modern wine identity. Yet quietly flourishing in the shadow of Malbec is a white grape that may capture Argentina’s soul even more intimately: Torrontés.

    If Malbec is Argentina’s velvet smoking jacket, Torrontés is its linen summer suit.

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    Bright, aromatic, floral, and refreshingly expressive, Torrontés delivers one of the wine world’s most captivating sensory contradictions. It smells lavishly sweet — bursting with jasmine, orange blossom, lychee, honeysuckle, and ripe stone fruit — yet on the palate it often finishes crisp, dry, and electric. That tension between exuberant aromatics and refreshing structure is precisely what makes Torrontés such an irresistible warm-weather wine.

    For sommeliers, Torrontés occupies a fascinating niche. It offers many of the floral signatures associated with Gewürztraminer or Muscat, yet often carries the acidity and freshness of Albariño or Sauvignon Blanc. It is simultaneously exotic and accessible, luxurious yet refreshing. It is a wine capable of elevating everything from ceviche to Thai curry while remaining one of the most underappreciated values in the wine world.

    And perhaps most importantly, it tells the story of Argentina itself.

    Photo by Jnurin Justin Nurin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    A Grape Born in the New World

    Unlike Malbec — which famously journeyed from southwest France to Argentina in the 19th century — Torrontés is not simply a transplanted European variety. Modern DNA analysis has revealed something far more intriguing.

    Torrontés is essentially Argentina’s own grape.

    Ampelographers now believe Torrontés resulted from a natural crossing between the ancient Spanish grape Mission (known locally as Criolla Chica) and Muscat of Alexandria. This crossing likely occurred after Spanish colonists brought vines to South America during the 16th century.

    That genealogy explains Torrontés beautifully:

    • From Muscat of Alexandria comes the intensely aromatic floral perfume.
    • From Criolla Chica comes adaptability, acidity retention, and resilience in high-altitude climates.

    The result is a grape uniquely suited to Argentina’s dramatic terroirs.

    Even more fascinating, there are actually three recognized Torrontés varieties in Argentina:

    Torrontés Riojano

    The finest and most celebrated expression. Despite the name, it is not connected to Spain’s Rioja region. This is the Torrontés most sommeliers reference when discussing premium Argentine white wines.

    Expect:

    • Jasmine and rose petals
    • White peach
    • Meyer lemon
    • Lychee
    • Orange blossom
    • Crisp acidity
    • Slight phenolic bitterness on the finish

    Torrontés Sanjuanino

    Typically softer and broader with less aromatic intensity. Often grown in San Juan where warmer conditions produce rounder wines.

    Expect:

    • Riper tropical fruit
    • Lower acidity
    • Softer floral character
    • More approachable commercial styles

    Torrontés Mendocino

    The rarest and least commercially important. Usually less aromatic and more neutral, though pockets of old vines still exist.

    These distinctions matter because Torrontés is highly sensitive to altitude, sunlight, and harvest timing. Tiny changes in site selection can radically alter the wine’s aromatic profile and balance.

    Photo by aaeptein, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Key to Great Torrontés

    To understand elite Torrontés, one must understand altitude.

    Many of Argentina’s greatest Torrontés vineyards sit between 5,000 and 8,000 feet above sea level, particularly in Salta’s Calchaquí Valleys. These are some of the highest vineyards on Earth.

    The conditions are extreme:

    • Intense UV radiation
    • Massive diurnal temperature swings
    • Dry desert air
    • Rocky, mineral-rich soils
    • Minimal rainfall

    Those dramatic shifts between scorching daytime temperatures and frigid nights allow grapes to achieve full aromatic ripeness while preserving acidity. The result is wines of remarkable aromatic intensity without becoming flabby or overly alcoholic.

    This is why Torrontés from Salta often possesses such startling purity and lift. The wines practically leap from the glass.

    For sommeliers, Salta Torrontés can become a blind tasting trap. The nose may suggest an off-dry Alsatian Gewürztraminer or even Muscat, yet the palate snaps dry with vibrant acidity and mineral tension.

    That disconnect is part of the magic.

    Related SOMM&SOMM Article: The Noble Grapes of Alsace

    Photo by Yozh, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Aromatic Illusion

    Torrontés teaches one of wine’s greatest sensory lessons: aroma does not equal sweetness.

    Because the grape is so explosively aromatic, inexperienced drinkers often assume the wine contains residual sugar. Yet many premium examples are fermented bone dry.

    The brain encounters aromas associated with sweetness:

    • Honeysuckle
    • Orange blossom
    • Peach nectar
    • Lychee
    • Rosewater

    Then suddenly the palate reveals:

    • Citrus zest
    • Salinity
    • Bitter grapefruit pith
    • Dry mineral structure

    This contrast creates incredible food versatility because the wine can complement spicy cuisine without the heaviness associated with sweeter wines.

    A well-made Torrontés should never feel cloying. The best examples dance.

    Regional Expressions of Torrontés

    Salta: The Grand Cru Expression

    Salta produces Argentina’s most profound Torrontés wines, particularly from Cafayate.

    These wines tend to be:

    • Intensely aromatic
    • High acid
    • Mineral-driven
    • Structured
    • Age-worthy

    Descriptors often include:

    • White flowers
    • Crushed rocks
    • Lemon oil
    • Green herbs
    • Peach skin
    • Lime blossom

    Some premium examples develop fascinating petrol and dried chamomile notes with age, reminiscent of mature Riesling.

    Pairing possibilities become almost endless:

    • Peruvian ceviche
    • Yuzu crudo
    • Thai basil chicken
    • Vietnamese lemongrass shrimp
    • Green curry
    • Moroccan preserved lemon dishes
    • Sushi with citrus kosho

    A sommelier might confidently pair Salta Torrontés with dishes traditionally reserved for Riesling or Grüner Veltliner.

    Mendoza: Softer and More Commercial

    Mendoza’s Torrontés tends to be broader and fruit-forward due to warmer conditions and different vineyard elevations.

    Expect:

    • Pear
    • Melon
    • Tropical fruit
    • Softer acidity
    • Rounder texture

    These wines are often approachable young and ideal for casual summer drinking.

    Perfect pairings include:

    • Grilled shrimp tacos
    • Summer salads
    • Goat cheese
    • Peach burrata
    • Chicken piccata
    • Light seafood pasta

    San Juan: Sun-Kissed and Exotic

    San Juan’s warmer climate can push Torrontés into more exotic territory.

    Here the wines often show:

    • Mango
    • Pineapple
    • Orange oil
    • Honeyed floral notes
    • Fuller body

    These expressions work beautifully alongside:

    • Caribbean cuisine
    • Jerk chicken
    • Coconut curries
    • Spicy pork dishes
    • Tamarind-glazed seafood
    seafood meal on plate with white wine on side
    Photo by Sarda Bamberg on Pexels.com

    Winemaking Styles and Modern Interpretations

    For years, Torrontés suffered from simplistic production methods that emphasized perfume at the expense of balance. Overcropping and late harvesting created wines that felt blowsy, bitter, and overly perfumed.

    Modern Argentine producers have dramatically refined the category.

    Today’s top producers focus on:

    • Earlier harvesting
    • Controlled temperatures
    • Lees aging
    • Concrete fermentation
    • Minimal oxidation
    • Precision viticulture

    The results are extraordinary.

    Stainless Steel Torrontés

    The most common style.

    Bright, fresh, and aromatic with:

    • Citrus blossom
    • Green melon
    • Lime zest
    • White peach

    Perfect for immediate consumption and ideal for summer service programs.

    Lees-Aged Torrontés

    Some producers experiment with sur lie aging to add texture and complexity.

    These wines develop:

    • Creamier mid-palates
    • Almond notes
    • Chamomile
    • Beeswax
    • Saline depth

    These more serious examples can stand beside richer seafood preparations like lobster with saffron beurre blanc or roasted halibut.

    Skin-Contact Torrontés

    Orange wine producers have discovered Torrontés is exceptionally compelling with extended maceration.

    Its naturally aromatic skins produce wines with:

    • Tea tannins
    • Bitter orange
    • Dried flowers
    • Apricot skin
    • Savory spice

    These wines become ideal for adventurous pairings:

    The Sommelier’s Secret Weapon

    One reason sommeliers adore Torrontés is its ability to solve difficult pairing situations.

    Spicy dishes often destroy many wines:

    • High alcohol amplifies heat.
    • Heavy oak clashes with aromatics.
    • Massive tannins become metallic.

    Torrontés succeeds because it combines:

    • Moderate alcohol
    • Intense aromatics
    • Bright acidity
    • Low tannin
    • Dry finish

    It behaves almost like a bridge between aromatic whites and acid-driven whites.

    Exceptional pairings include:

    And perhaps unexpectedly, Torrontés can shine with brunch.

    Imagine:

    This is early summer wine at its finest.

    Cover photo by nomad_sw18, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Myths, Lore, and Fascinating Tidbits

    Torrontés has accumulated its fair share of misconceptions and romantic myths over the centuries.

    One enduring legend claims the grape was secretly cultivated by Jesuit missionaries high in the Andes because its intoxicating floral aroma symbolized “the perfume of paradise.” While historically unverified, the story persists throughout parts of northern Argentina.

    Another common myth is that Torrontés is genetically related to Spain’s Torrontés grapes from Galicia. In reality, they are entirely different varieties sharing only a name.

    There is also a persistent belief among tourists visiting Argentina that Torrontés must be sweet because of its nose. Many first-time drinkers experience genuine surprise after the first sip.

    Sommeliers often exploit this beautifully during tastings:
    “Smell this wine and guess whether it’s sweet or dry.”

    The reveal almost always sparks conversation.

    And while Malbec dominates exports, many Argentine winemakers privately consider Torrontés their true signature grape because no other country expresses it with the same authenticity or consistency.

    Serving and Cellaring

    Torrontés is generally best enjoyed young when its aromatics are vibrant and lifted. Most bottles perform beautifully within 2–4 years of vintage.

    However, elite high-altitude examples from Salta can age surprisingly well for 5–8 years, gaining:

    • Honeycomb notes
    • Dried herbs
    • Chamomile
    • Petrol nuances
    • Nutty complexity

    Serve slightly warmer than basic Sauvignon Blanc:

    • Around 48–52°F

    Too cold and the aromatics become muted.

    Related SOMM&SOMM Article: Wine Service: Proper Serving Temperatures

    Glassware matters as well. Aromatic white wine stems or even smaller Burgundy bowls allow Torrontés to fully express its explosive nose.

    Why Torrontés Matters

    In a wine world increasingly dominated by international sameness, Torrontés feels gloriously distinct.

    It does not chase Chardonnay richness.
    It does not mimic Sauvignon Blanc sharpness.
    It does not imitate Pinot Grigio neutrality.

    Instead, it proudly embraces its own identity:
    perfumed, vibrant, refreshing, and unmistakably Argentine.

    For wine educators, Torrontés offers a masterclass in aromatic deception and terroir expression.
    For sommeliers, it becomes a versatile pairing weapon.
    For casual drinkers, it offers immediate pleasure and tremendous value.
    For warm evenings and early summer gatherings, it may be one of the most joyful wines imaginable.

    Malbec may remain Argentina’s king.

    But Torrontés?
    Torrontés is its poetry in bloom.

    Cover photo by Jameson Fink, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

  • The Most Misunderstood Buzzword in the Vineyard

    The Most Misunderstood Buzzword in the Vineyard

    There are few phrases in the modern wine world more romanticized, misunderstood, weaponized, and casually thrown around than “dry-farmed wine.” Somewhere between “natural wine,” “low sulfites,” and “minerality,” dry farming has become one of those magical terms consumers latch onto in hopes of finding purity in a bottle.

    And lately, it has become the darling of wellness influencers, wine-adjacent lifestyle brands, and people convinced that a vineyard’s irrigation practices are somehow responsible for their Saturday morning headache.

    As sommeliers, wine educators, and wine lovers, we hear it all:

    “I can only drink dry-farmed wines.”

    “Dry-farmed wines don’t give me headaches.”

    “If the label doesn’t say dry-farmed, it probably isn’t.”

    “Dry farming means no sulfites, right?”

    And perhaps the most amusing of all:

    “Well, it definitely can’t be from California.”

    Ah yes… because apparently Europe invented sunshine and water scarcity.

    So let’s uncork this conversation properly.

    Because dry farming is real. It matters. It can profoundly influence wine character and vineyard expression.

    But it is also deeply misunderstood.

    a vast vineyard of grapes
    Photo by Markus Winkler on Pexels.com

    What Is Dry Farming?

    At its core, dry farming is exactly what it sounds like:

    A vineyard is grown without supplemental irrigation during the growing season.

    The vines survive solely on naturally occurring rainfall and the moisture retained in the soil.

    That’s it.

    No mystical rituals.
    No secret biodynamic moon chants.
    No guarantee of “clean wine.”
    No immunity from hangovers.

    Simply put, the vine receives no added water after establishment.

    The vineyard must rely on:

    • Winter rainfall
    • Deep root systems
    • Soil water retention
    • Climate conditions
    • Vineyard management practices

    Dry farming is both ancient and traditional. In fact, for most of wine history, all vineyards were dry farmed because modern irrigation systems didn’t exist.

    a glass of wine next to a bottle of wine
    Photo by Brett Jordan on Pexels.com

    Ironically… Some of the World’s Greatest Wines Are Automatically Dry-Farmed

    Here’s where many consumers get confused.

    In numerous classic European wine regions, irrigation is heavily restricted or outright illegal under appellation law.

    Meaning?

    The producers often don’t put “dry farmed” on the label because:

    1. It’s already assumed.
    2. It’s legally mandated.
    3. It would be like bragging that your restaurant uses heat to cook food.

    Many appellation systems view irrigation as something that can artificially inflate yields and dilute terroir expression.

    Classic examples include vineyards in:

    Some of the oldest, most revered vineyards on Earth are dry farmed simply because they always have been.

    No trendy sticker required.

    panorama of garden pathway
    Photo by Tim Mossholder on Pexels.com

    Wait… California Has Dry-Farmed Vineyards?

    Absolutely.

    And some of the most fascinating examples come from old-vine vineyards throughout:

    • Sonoma County
    • Mendocino County
    • Paso Robles
    • Lodi

    Many historic vineyards planted before widespread drip irrigation were naturally dry farmed for decades.

    The reality is that California’s climate makes dry farming difficult—but not impossible.

    It requires:

    • Appropriate rootstocks
    • Older vines
    • Water-retentive soils
    • Lower yields
    • Careful canopy management
    • Significant farming expertise

    Dry farming in California is often a deliberate philosophical choice rather than a legal obligation.

    And yes… some California producers love reminding you about it.

    Repeatedly.

    Usually in fonts resembling an organic granola package.

    Why Dry Farming Matters

    Now here’s the important part:

    Dry farming can produce remarkable wines.

    When vines must search deeply for water, several things often happen:

    1. Deeper Root Systems

    Vines develop extensive roots that penetrate deep into the soil and subsoil.

    This can:

    • Improve drought resilience
    • Increase mineral uptake
    • Enhance site expression
    • Create greater vintage consistency

    Deep roots also reduce dependence on surface moisture fluctuations.

    2. Naturally Lower Yields

    Water stress generally reduces berry size and overall crop load.

    Smaller berries mean:

    • Higher skin-to-juice ratio
    • More concentrated flavors
    • Greater tannin structure
    • More intense aromatics

    This is one reason dry-farmed wines often taste more focused and savory.

    3. More Transparent Terroir

    The French concept of terroir—the combination of soil, climate, exposure, geology, and farming—is often amplified in dry-farmed vineyards.

    Without irrigation:

    • The vine responds directly to seasonal conditions
    • Soil composition becomes more evident
    • Vintage variation becomes more pronounced

    The wines may feel more “alive” and site-specific.

    a man in plaid suit looking at the glass of red wine he is holding
    Photo by Pavel Danilyuk on Pexels.com

    But Dry Farming Is Not Automatically Better

    This is where nuance matters.

    Dry farming is not a universal quality guarantee.

    In the wrong environment, it can produce:

    • Excessively stressed vines
    • Unbalanced ripeness
    • Harsh tannins
    • Dehydrated fruit
    • Reduced acidity
    • Overly alcoholic wines

    A vine pushed beyond healthy stress becomes compromised.

    Great viticulture is about balance—not suffering.

    A responsible grower may irrigate strategically to preserve:

    • Vine health
    • Acidity
    • Phenolic ripeness
    • Long-term vineyard sustainability

    Especially in an era of climate change and prolonged drought.

    The Headache Myth: Let’s Talk About Sulfites

    Now we arrive at the internet’s favorite villain:

    Sulfur.

    Or more accurately:

    Sulfites.

    Consumers often assume:

    • Dry-farmed wine = low sulfites
    • Low sulfites = no headaches
    • European wines = magically headache-free

    Unfortunately, biology is more complicated than TikTok 🙂

    Sulfites Are Natural

    Sulfites occur naturally during fermentation.

    Every wine contains them.

    Even wines labeled “no added sulfites” still contain naturally occurring sulfites.

    Without sulfur, many wines would oxidize, spoil, or become microbiologically unstable.

    Sulfur is one of the most important tools in winemaking.

    Are Sulfites Causing Your Headache?

    For most people?

    Probably not.

    True sulfite sensitivity is relatively rare and is most commonly associated with severe asthma reactions—not ordinary wine headaches.

    More likely culprits include:

    • Alcohol dehydration
    • Histamines
    • Tyramine sensitivity
    • Sugar levels
    • Poor sleep
    • Overconsumption
    • Congeners
    • Drinking low-quality wine quickly
    • Mixing beverages

    Or, perhaps most devastatingly…

    You simply had four giant pours of 15.8% ABV Zinfandel while debating biodynamics until 1:30 a.m.

    Science remains undefeated.

    Related SOMM&SOMM article: Demystifying Sulfites in Wine

    “Natural Wine” and Dry Farming Are Not the Same Thing

    Another misconception:

    Dry farming does not automatically mean:

    • Organic
    • Biodynamic
    • Natural wine
    • Low intervention
    • No sulfur additions

    A conventionally farmed vineyard can be dry farmed.

    A natural wine producer may still irrigate.

    These are entirely separate practices.

    Modern wine marketing often blurs these distinctions because consumers increasingly seek authenticity, sustainability, and transparency.

    But wine terminology matters.

    What Do Dry-Farmed Wines Taste Like?

    This is the exciting part.

    While there is no universal flavor profile, dry-farmed wines often show:

    Reds

    • Darker concentration
    • Firmer structure
    • Earthy/savory notes
    • More tension
    • Smaller-fruited character
    • Herbal complexity

    Whites

    • Intense aromatics
    • Saline/mineral character
    • Higher textural density
    • Precision and energy

    The wines may feel less “plush” and more architectural.

    Less fruit-forward.
    More nuanced.
    More site-driven.

    At their best, they possess remarkable balance and authenticity.

    two glasses of white wine
    Photo by Tugay Kocatürk on Pexels.com

    Regions Famous for Dry-Farmed Viticulture

    Some of the world’s iconic dry-farmed regions include:

    Santorini

    Ancient basket-trained Assyrtiko vines surviving on sea mist and volcanic soils.

    Priorat

    Brutally steep slate vineyards producing concentrated Garnacha and Cariñena.

    Douro Valley

    Historic terraces where Port and dry reds emerge from intensely rugged conditions.

    Barossa Valley

    Home to some of the oldest dry-farmed Shiraz vines on Earth.

    Paso Robles

    A modern American leader in thoughtful dry-farmed viticulture.

    The Real Conversation We Should Be Having

    Dry farming is not about virtue signaling.

    It is not a magic health label.

    It is not proof of superior morality, cleaner wine, or guaranteed quality.

    It is a farming philosophy.

    One rooted in:

    • Water conservation
    • Vineyard resilience
    • Site transparency
    • Traditional viticulture
    • Concentration and balance

    Sometimes it produces profound wines.

    Sometimes irrigation is the wiser choice.

    The best growers understand the difference.

    And perhaps the most important lesson?

    The absence of “dry farmed” on a label tells you almost nothing.

    Many of the world’s greatest wines have quietly followed these practices for centuries without ever feeling the need to market them.

    Because in much of the wine world, dry farming isn’t a trend.

    It’s simply called farming.

    unrecognizable man with glass of white wine
    Photo by Maria Orlova on Pexels.com

    Final Pour

    Wine culture loves absolutes.

    Consumers search endlessly for shortcuts:

    • Organic = better
    • Natural = healthier
    • Old vines = superior
    • Low sulfites = headache free
    • Dry farmed = pure

    But wine, like people, resists simplistic categorization.

    The beauty of wine lies in nuance.

    A vineyard’s irrigation strategy is just one thread in an enormously complex tapestry involving:

    • Climate
    • Soil
    • Rootstock
    • Farming
    • Fermentation
    • Oak
    • Vintage
    • Human decisions
    • Time

    So the next time someone proudly announces they only drink dry-farmed wine because sulfites give them headaches…

    Pour them a classic red from Burgundy or Barolo.

    Then gently remind them:

    Those vineyards likely never needed the label in the first place.

    Cover Photo by Line Knipst on Pexels.com

  • Where Merlot Becomes Magic

    Where Merlot Becomes Magic

    Wines That Whisper Instead of Shout.

    There are certain wines that command respect the moment they are poured. Then there are wines that quietly pull you into the glass, unfolding slowly over the course of an evening until you suddenly realize the bottle is empty and nobody at the table wants the conversation to end. That is the magic of Saint-Émilion.

    Nestled on Bordeaux’s famed Right Bank, Saint-Émilion has long existed in the shadow of some of the Left Bank’s louder, more aggressively structured Cabernet-driven wines. Yet for many wine lovers — particularly those drawn to elegance, texture, and layered complexity — Saint-Émilion offers something even more captivating. These are wines that do not need to shout. They seduce.

    And few grapes are more seductive here than Merlot.

    For Tammy, that has always been part of the appeal. There is something about the Merlot of Saint-Émilion that feels complete — rich without becoming heavy, polished without losing soul, luxurious without trying too hard. The wines possess a softness that invites you in, but underneath that velvety fruit lies structure, minerality, and depth that keep every sip interesting.

    That balance is what makes the region so extraordinary.

    scenic view of saint emilion france village
    Photo by Josef Kali on Pexels.com

    A Village Built on Wine and History

    Wine has flowed through Saint-Émilion for nearly 2,000 years. The Romans first planted vines in these limestone-rich hillsides, recognizing the potential of the region long before Bordeaux became synonymous with fine wine. The village itself, named after an 8th-century monk called Émilion, still feels wonderfully frozen in time.

    Medieval stone buildings rise above underground catacombs and ancient caves carved deep beneath the town. Narrow cobblestone streets wind past wine shops, churches, and cellar doors that have stood for centuries. Walking through Saint-Émilion feels less like visiting a wine region and more like stepping into a beautifully preserved secret.

    Of course, the real secret lies beneath the vineyards.

    close up shot of grapes
    Photo by Nico Becker on Pexels.com

    Why Merlot Thrives Here

    Unlike the gravel-heavy soils of Bordeaux’s Left Bank, Saint-Émilion sits atop a patchwork of limestone, clay, chalk, and sand — soils perfectly suited for Merlot. Cabernet Franc also thrives here, contributing freshness, floral aromatics, spice, and backbone to many of the blends. Together, they create wines that combine generosity with tension, opulence with restraint.

    A great Saint-Émilion often delivers aromas of black cherry, ripe plum, violets, cedar, tobacco leaf, truffle, cocoa, and crushed stone. In youth, the wines can feel lush and welcoming. With age, they evolve into something deeply savory and hauntingly complex. The finest examples manage to feel simultaneously powerful and graceful — a rare achievement in the world of red wine.

    This is precisely why so many Merlot lovers become devoted to the region. Saint-Émilion reveals what Merlot can truly become when grown in the right place and handled with patience and care.

    close up of a man holding a glass of wine
    Photo by Philippe WEICKMANN on Pexels.com

    Saint-Émilion vs. Pomerol

    This is where comparisons to nearby Pomerol become fascinating.

    Though separated by only a few miles, the two appellations express Merlot in very different ways. Pomerol tends to produce wines of extraordinary plushness and velvety texture — softer around the edges, often broader and more opulent from the start. Saint-Émilion, meanwhile, usually carries more freshness and mineral energy, thanks largely to its limestone plateau and greater use of Cabernet Franc.

    If Pomerol is silk, Saint-Émilion is silk wrapped around stone.

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    Both regions produce extraordinary wines, but Saint-Émilion often appeals to those who enjoy a little more structure and complexity beneath the fruit. The wines evolve beautifully in the glass, revealing layer after layer over the course of a meal.

    Frederik Vandaele, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Shadow of Pétrus

    No discussion of Right Bank Bordeaux can avoid the gravitational pull of Pétrus, perhaps the world’s most famous Merlot-dominant wine. Produced from Pomerol’s prized blue clay soils, Pétrus has achieved near-mythical status for its concentration, texture, and longevity. Collectors chase it. Auctions celebrate it. Bank accounts fear it.

    And deservedly so.

    Yet one of the great joys of Saint-Émilion is discovering just how profound these wines can be without requiring the purchase of a small yacht. Many of the region’s best producers deliver astonishing depth, elegance, and cellar-worthy complexity at far more approachable prices. For passionate wine lovers, that makes Saint-Émilion one of Bordeaux’s most rewarding explorations.

    Bordeaux With a Little Drama

    The region itself also carries a bit more personality than Bordeaux’s often rigid reputation suggests. Saint-Émilion’s classification system is famously revised every several years, unlike the fixed 1855 classifications of the Left Bank. Promotions, demotions, lawsuits, and controversy inevitably follow, giving the region a touch of drama beneath its polished exterior.

    For a place built on fermented grape juice, it occasionally behaves like a French aristocratic soap opera.

    Thankfully, the wines remain timeless.

    Related article: Understanding French Wine Laws

    The Wines Truly Come Alive at the Table

    At the table, Saint-Émilion shines brightest. These are reds built for long dinners and lingering conversations. Their balance of acidity, fruit, and tannin makes them remarkably versatile with food — roasted lamb, duck breast, mushroom risotto, braised short ribs, aged cheeses, and earthy autumn dishes all seem to come alive beside a well-aged bottle.

    More importantly, they invite people to slow down.

    That may ultimately be Saint-Émilion’s greatest strength. In a wine world often obsessed with scores, rarity, and spectacle, these wines still feel deeply connected to pleasure, place, and experience. They reward patience. They evolve in the glass. They encourage storytelling.

    And for those who love Merlot at its most expressive (I’m looking at you), few places in the world capture that magic more beautifully than Saint-Émilion 🍷

    Cover Photo by Andrew Patrick Photo on Pexels.com

  • Spring Uncorked

    Spring Uncorked

    A Sommelier’s Guide to the Season of Renewal.

    Spring does not arrive all at once—it lingers, hesitates, and then, almost without warning, transforms everything around us. The same can be said for the wines we reach for. One moment, we are still clinging to the comfort of winter—structured reds, slow braises, and fireside pours—and the next, we find ourselves craving brightness, freshness, and lift.

    At SOMM&SOMM, we don’t view spring as a single season, but rather as a graceful evolution. It is a journey of the palate, one that mirrors nature itself. Understanding this progression allows us to make more intentional choices—pairing not just wine with food, but wine with time, temperature, and emotion.

    Let’s walk through the season as it was meant to be experienced—one glass at a time.

    Photo by Alena Koval on Pexels.com

    The Thaw: Where Winter Lets Go

    Early spring still carries the weight of winter. There’s a chill in the air, and comfort remains a quiet necessity. But something subtle begins to shift. The palate, like the landscape, starts to awaken.

    This is where we begin to move away from the dense and the heavy—not abruptly, but thoughtfully. Wines in this stage should retain enough structure to complement heartier dishes, yet offer a lift of acidity and freshness that signals change.

    Photo by Andrew Patrick Photo on Pexels.com

    A beautifully balanced Pinot Noir becomes the perfect companion here. Its earthy undertones still resonate with winter’s flavors—mushrooms, roasted meats, herbs—while its natural acidity brings a sense of brightness. Likewise, a lightly oaked Chardonnay offers a similar bridge, holding onto its roundness while introducing notes of citrus and orchard fruit.

    Imagine a roast chicken emerging from the oven, its skin golden and crisp, perfumed with lemon, garlic, and fresh thyme. It is a dish that belongs equally to two seasons. Paired with a Pinot Noir, the wine mirrors the savory depth while refreshing the palate with each sip. A Chardonnay, on the other hand, leans into the dish’s richness, its subtle oak and creamy texture harmonizing with the roasted flavors while the citrus notes echo the lemon.

    This is the quiet conversation between seasons—the moment where winter loosens its grip, and spring begins to whisper.

    SOMM&SOMM Recommended Wines – The Thaw

    • Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
    • Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
    • Bourgogne Blanc (lightly oaked Chardonnay)
    • Dry German Riesling (Kabinett or Trocken)
    • Cru Beaujolais (Gamay)
    Photo by Erik Karits on Pexels.com

    The Bloom: When Freshness Takes Center Stage

    By mid-spring, the transformation is undeniable. Markets begin to fill with vibrant greens, herbs, and the first delicate vegetables of the season. The air feels lighter, and so too should the wines.

    This is where acidity becomes the star.

    Sauvignon Blanc, in all its expressive glory, feels almost tailor-made for this moment. Whether from the Loire Valley or New Zealand, its bright citrus, herbal notes, and energetic structure align seamlessly with the flavors of the season. Grüner Veltliner offers a slightly more textured experience, with its signature white pepper note adding intrigue to fresh, green dishes.

    A spring pea and mint risotto captures this phase perfectly. Creamy and comforting, yet undeniably fresh, it reflects the balance we seek in both food and wine. The sweetness of the peas, the aromatic lift of mint, and the richness of the risotto create a dynamic canvas.

    Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

    With Sauvignon Blanc, the pairing becomes electric. The wine’s acidity cuts through the creaminess while its herbal character mirrors the mint and peas, creating a seamless connection. Grüner Veltliner takes a slightly different approach, adding a layer of spice that elevates the dish in unexpected ways.

    This is the season of contrast—where richness meets brightness, and where wine begins to dance rather than simply accompany.

    A simple salad of goat cheese, citrus, and fresh greens tells a similar story. Here, wine is no longer just a complement—it becomes an essential ingredient in the experience, heightening the vibrancy of every bite.

    SOMM&SOMM Recommended Wines – The Bloom

    • Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé)
    • New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
    • Grüner Veltliner (Austria)
    • Albariño (Rías Baixas)
    • Dry Rosé (early releases)
    Photo by Rino Adamo on Pexels.com

    The Radiance: Spring in Full Expression

    As late spring settles in, the days grow longer and warmer. Meals move outdoors, and the mood shifts from introspective to celebratory. This is where spring begins to flirt with summer, and the wines reflect that sense of ease and joy.

    Rosé takes center stage here—not as a trend, but as a philosophy. Dry, crisp, and endlessly versatile, it captures the essence of the season in a single glass. Alongside it, wines like Albariño and Vermentino bring a coastal freshness, their natural salinity and citrus-driven profiles making them ideal companions for lighter fare.

    Grilled shrimp with garlic and lemon is a dish that feels almost inevitable in this stage of spring. It is simple, vibrant, and deeply satisfying. Paired with Albariño, the experience becomes transportive—the wine’s subtle salinity echoing the ocean, its acidity enhancing the brightness of the lemon and the sweetness of the shrimp.

    Photo by Maria Orlova on Pexels.com

    Rosé offers a different expression, introducing a gentle fruitiness that plays beautifully against the char from the grill. It’s a pairing that doesn’t demand attention—it invites it.

    Even something as unassuming as a strawberry and burrata salad becomes extraordinary in this context. The sweetness of the fruit, the creaminess of the cheese, and the aromatic lift of fresh basil create a harmony that feels effortless. Add a glass of sparkling wine, and the entire experience is elevated. The bubbles cleanse the palate, amplify the flavors, and bring a sense of celebration to even the simplest of dishes.

    SOMM&SOMM Recommended Wines – The Radiance

    • Provence Rosé
    • Tavel Rosé (for a fuller style)
    • Albariño (Spain)
    • Vermentino (Italy, Sardinia)
    • Brut Sparkling Wine (Champagne, Cava, or domestic)

    The Seasonal Mindset

    What makes spring so compelling is not just the food or the wine—it’s the transition itself. It reminds us that enjoyment is not static. Our preferences shift, our surroundings influence us, and our connection to what’s in the glass evolves.

    The true art of seasonal pairing lies in awareness. It’s in recognizing when to let go of the bold and embrace the bright. It’s in understanding that a wine’s role is not fixed, but fluid—just like the season it accompanies.

    Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

    Spring teaches us patience. It teaches us to savor the in-between moments—the gentle shift from one expression to another. And in doing so, it invites us to experience wine not just as a beverage, but as a reflection of time, place, and feeling.

    So as the season unfolds, let your palate follow. Start where you are, move with intention, and most importantly—enjoy the journey.

    Because the best pairing this spring isn’t just what’s on your plate or in your glass.

    It’s the moment you choose to savor it 🍷

    Lemon Herb Grilled Chicken with Spring Vegetables

    Perfect Pairing: Sauvignon Blanc (Loire Valley)

    Ingredients

    • 2 boneless chicken breasts
    • Olive oil
    • Zest and juice of 1 lemon
    • 2 cloves garlic, minced
    • Fresh thyme, parsley, and basil (chopped)
    • Salt and pepper
    • Asparagus, snap peas, and baby carrots

    Preparation

    Marinate the chicken in olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and herbs for at least 30 minutes. Grill over medium heat until cooked through, allowing a slight char to develop.

    Toss the vegetables in olive oil, salt, and pepper, then grill or roast until just tender—still vibrant, still alive.

    Finish with a touch of lemon zest and fresh herbs.

    Cover Photo by Elina Fairytale on Pexels.com

  • Orange You Curious?

    Orange You Curious?

    Every spring, something predictable happens in the wine world. As the first warm breezes arrive and we start dreaming of patios, gardens, and long lingering dinners outside, wine drinkers begin looking for something new in the glass. Something lively. Something intriguing. Something just a little different.

    That’s usually when someone appears at the table holding a bottle of orange wine and announces with great enthusiasm, “You’ve got to try this.”

    The room typically responds with polite curiosity and mild suspicion.

    “Orange wine?” someone asks. “Is that like a rosé?”

    Not quite.

    Another brave soul ventures a guess. “Is it made from oranges?”

    Definitely not.

    Orange wine, despite its recent trendy reputation, is actually one of the oldest styles of wine in the world—and like many old traditions, it has simply taken us a few thousand years to rediscover just how interesting it can be.

    Let’s talk about it.

    A Wine Style Older Than Most Civilizations

    If we were to rewind the story of wine far enough, we would find ourselves in the rugged hills of Georgia, where archaeologists have discovered evidence of winemaking dating back roughly 8,000 years.

    Yes—eight thousand.

    The Georgians were fermenting grapes long before the Romans, long before the French, and certainly long before Instagram wine influencers began debating the merits of skin contact.

    Their technique was simple and brilliant. Grapes were crushed and placed—skins, seeds, stems and all—into large clay vessels called qvevri. These vessels were buried underground to maintain a natural, stable temperature while fermentation took place.

    Months later, what emerged from these vessels was a wine unlike the crisp whites most of us know today. The extended contact between the juice and the grape skins created a wine with deeper color, firmer structure, and extraordinary aromatic complexity.

    These wines were amber-colored, textured, sometimes slightly rustic, and always deeply expressive of place. The tradition remains so culturally important that the method has been recognized by UNESCO as part of humanity’s intangible cultural heritage.

    In other words, orange wine isn’t a modern invention.

    It’s history in a glass.

    So What Exactly Is Orange Wine?

    To understand orange wine, we need to revisit the simple rules most wine drinkers learn early on.

    White wine is made from white grapes that are pressed, and the juice is fermented without the skins.

    Red wine is made from red grapes that ferment with the skins, which gives the wine its color, tannins, and structure.

    Rosé is made from red grapes as well, but the skins stay in contact with the juice only briefly—just long enough to tint the wine pink.

    Orange wine breaks the rules in the most delightful way.

    It is made from white grapes fermented with their skins, sometimes for days, sometimes for weeks, and occasionally for months.

    The skins impart color, texture, and tannin, transforming the wine into something far more complex than the typical crisp white.

    The result is a wine that can appear anywhere from deep golden amber to burnished copper—something that looks as though autumn itself melted into a glass.

    And the flavors?

    That’s where things get fascinating.

    Instead of bright citrus and green apple, orange wines often reveal layers of dried apricot, orange peel, tea leaves, honey, nuts, herbs, and spice. Some lean toward savory flavors that remind people of chamomile, hay, or even cider.

    The first sip can surprise newcomers. It’s a white wine that behaves a bit like a red wine—structured, textured, and sometimes even slightly grippy on the palate.

    It’s the wine equivalent of discovering your quiet neighbor plays jazz trumpet on the weekends.

    The Modern Revival

    While the tradition never disappeared in Georgia, orange wine faded from much of the Western wine world over the centuries as cleaner, brighter white wines became fashionable.

    Then, in the late twentieth century, a handful of curious winemakers began digging back into history.

    In the hills of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, along the border with Slovenia, several visionary producers began experimenting with extended skin contact for white grapes.

    Among them was the legendary Josko Gravner, who traveled to Georgia, fell in love with the ancient methods, and returned home determined to revive them. He even began fermenting wines in clay vessels modeled after traditional qvevri.

    Other winemakers followed his lead, and what began as a quiet experiment slowly grew into a movement.

    Today orange wines appear everywhere—from small artisan cellars in Eastern Europe to adventurous producers in California and Australia. What was once an obscure historical curiosity has become one of the most intriguing categories on modern wine lists.

    Rkatsiteli orange wine – uploader, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Is Orange Wine Replacing Rosé?

    Not even close.

    Rosé is sunshine in a glass—fresh, playful, and effortlessly charming. It’s the wine you bring to the beach or open on a warm afternoon without much contemplation.

    Orange wine, on the other hand, tends to invite conversation. It asks questions. It makes people tilt their heads slightly and say things like, “Wait… what is that flavor?”

    Where rosé is carefree, orange wine is contemplative.

    If anything, orange wine occupies the fascinating middle ground between white and red wine. It has the acidity of white wine, the structure of red wine, and the aromatic complexity of something entirely its own.

    So rather than replacing rosé, orange wine simply expands the playground.

    What Should You Expect in the Glass?

    First-time drinkers are often surprised by how textural orange wines can be.

    The skin contact introduces tannins—those same structural compounds we associate with red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon. They aren’t usually as powerful, but they add a subtle grip that gives the wine weight and presence.

    The aromas tend to be layered and sometimes delightfully unusual. Dried citrus peel, apricot, almond, chamomile, saffron, and black tea often make appearances. Some wines even carry a faint oxidative note reminiscent of sherry or cider.

    And because many orange wines are produced using minimal intervention—wild yeast fermentations, little filtration, and modest sulfur additions—they can sometimes display a rustic personality.

    That’s not a flaw.

    That’s character.

    Troon orange wine w/Duck Breast – Jmb5121, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Joy of Pairing Orange Wine with Food

    For sommeliers, orange wine is a secret weapon at the dinner table.

    Its combination of acidity, tannin, and aromatic depth allows it to pair with foods that challenge both white and red wines.

    Spicy cuisines, for example, often overwhelm delicate whites and clash with heavy reds. Orange wines, with their firm structure and complex flavors, handle spice remarkably well.

    They also shine with Mediterranean dishes—roasted vegetables, olives, grilled eggplant, and herb-driven preparations. The savory notes in the wine seem to echo the earthy flavors on the plate.

    Fermented foods are another delightful match. Kimchi, miso, and aged cheeses often resonate beautifully with the subtle funk and texture found in many orange wines.

    And if you place a bottle of orange wine next to a roast chicken with mushrooms and herbs, you may discover one of those magical pairings where both the food and the wine suddenly seem more complete.

    A Wine for Curious Drinkers

    Orange wine may be enjoying a moment of fashionable attention, but in truth it represents something deeper than a passing trend.

    It is a reminder that wine is not just a beverage—it is a living tradition, shaped by thousands of years of experimentation, culture, and curiosity.

    Every bottle carries echoes of ancient cellars, buried clay vessels, and winemakers who believed that sometimes the best way forward is to look back.

    So if someone pours you a glass of orange wine this spring, take a moment to appreciate what you’re tasting.

    You’re not just sipping a trendy wine.

    You’re tasting eight thousand years of winemaking history—and that, my friends, is something worth raising a glass to.

    Sorry about that dangling preposition 😉

    Cheers. 🍷🍊

    Cover photo by Yozh, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

  • The Art, Science, and Law of Pressing Grapes

    The Art, Science, and Law of Pressing Grapes

    Winter is when vineyards sleep and cellars hum. Fermentations have finished, barrels are topped, and winemakers finally have the quiet space to obsess over the decisions that matter most. And few decisions matter more than what happens between harvest and fermentation—that brief, beautiful, dangerous moment when grapes are pressed.

    Photo by lebu0259u02c8 nu0113z on Pexels.com

    Pressing is where juice becomes wine’s first draft. It is also where texture, structure, aromatics, bitterness, elegance, and even legality begin to take shape.

    If fermentation is the soul of wine, pressing is its bone structure.

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    So pour something contemplative, lean back, and let’s get delightfully nerdy.

    Why Pressing Matters More Than You Think

    At its simplest, pressing extracts juice from grapes. But at its most nuanced, pressing determines:

    • Phenolic load (tannins, bitterness, texture)
    • Aromatic purity vs. rusticity
    • Color extraction
    • Acid balance
    • Ageability
    • Style, classification, and sometimes legal eligibility

    Every press decision answers one quiet question:
    What do we want this wine to feel like?

    The Anatomy of a Grape (Because This Matters)

    Before we talk presses, let’s talk parts:

    • Pulp: Mostly water, sugar, acids. This is the good stuff.
    • Skins: Color, tannins, aroma compounds.
    • Seeds: Bitter tannins, harsh phenolics.
    • Stems: Green, vegetal tannins if included.

    Pressing determines how much of each ends up in the juice. Gentle pressure favors pulp. Aggressive pressure starts dragging skins, seeds, and bitterness into the party.

    Photo by Jean-Paul Wettstein on Pexels.com

    Tools of Texture

    1. Basket Press (The Romantic Traditionalist)

    How it works:
    Grapes are loaded into a cylindrical basket. Pressure is applied from the top via a plate.

    Why winemakers love it:

    • Extremely gentle
    • Low shear forces
    • Minimal seed breakage
    • Exceptional clarity and texture

    Downside:

    • Labor-intensive
    • Lower juice yield
    • Slower

    Best for:

    • High-end Pinot Noir
    • Artisan Chardonnay
    • Skin-contact whites
    • Small-lot, texture-driven wines

    Cork dork note: Basket presses extract juice in layers, allowing winemakers to separate fractions with surgical precision.

    2. Pneumatic (Bladder) Press (The Modern Maestro)

    How it works:
    A rubber bladder inflates inside a closed drum, gently pressing grapes against perforated walls.

    Why it dominates modern winemaking:

    • Precise pressure control
    • Programmable press cycles
    • Inert gas options (oxygen control)
    • Fractionated juice collection

    Downside:

    • Expensive
    • Less romantic

    Best for:

    • Champagne
    • Premium whites
    • Rosé
    • Any wine where elegance matters

    This is the press of choice when purity and finesse outrank brute force.

    Photo by Nico Becker on Pexels.com

    3. Continuous / Screw Press (The Industrial Workhorse)

    How it works:
    A rotating screw pushes grapes through a narrowing chamber.

    Why it exists:

    • High volume
    • Fast
    • Efficient

    Why fine winemakers avoid it:

    • Aggressive extraction
    • Crushed seeds
    • Elevated bitterness
    • Oxidation risk

    Best for:

    • Bulk wine
    • Distillation
    • Juice production

    If basket presses whisper and pneumatic presses speak calmly, screw presses shout.

    A Class of Its Own

    Champagne is not just wine made with bubbles. It is wine made under strict legal and philosophical discipline, and pressing sits at the center.

    Why Champagne Pressing Is Different

    Champagne grapes (primarily Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Chardonnay) are:

    • Picked early
    • High in acid
    • Low in sugar
    • Extremely sensitive to phenolic extraction

    The goal is white juice from black grapes without bitterness or color.

    Photo by Rene Terp on Pexels.com

    The Coquard Press (Champagne’s Crown Jewel)

    Traditional Champagne houses used the Coquard press, a shallow basket press designed to:

    • Minimize skin contact
    • Apply ultra-gentle pressure
    • Extract juice evenly

    Modern Champagne often uses pneumatic presses, but the philosophy remains unchanged.

    The Coquard Press

    If Champagne has a soul, the Coquard press is where it learned restraint.

    Developed specifically for the region, the Coquard is a shallow, wide basket press designed to extract juice slowly, evenly, and with almost monk-like discipline. Its low fill height prevents the crushing weight that darker, more aggressive presses impose on grapes, reducing skin rupture, seed breakage, and unwanted phenolic extraction.

    Why does that matter? Because Champagne grapes are picked early, packed with acid, and incredibly sensitive. The goal is crystal-clear juice from black grapes without dragging color, bitterness, or texture along for the ride. The Coquard excels at producing pristine cuvée juice, the fraction reserved for the finest wines and longest aging.

    Modern pneumatic presses may now dominate the region, but they still follow the Coquard’s philosophy:
    gentle pressure, fractionated juice, and elegance over efficiency.

    In Champagne, pressing isn’t about how much juice you get. It’s about knowing exactly when to stop.

    The Sacred Fractions of Champagne Pressing

    By law, Champagne pressing is fractionated:

    1. Cuvée (The First Press)

    • ~20.5 hL from 4,000 kg of grapes
    • Purest juice
    • Highest acid
    • Lowest phenolics
    • Longest aging potential

    This is the backbone of great Champagne.

    2. Taille (The Second Press)

    • ~5 hL
    • Slightly more color
    • More phenolics
    • Less finesse

    Still usable, but handled carefully.

    Anything Beyond?

    Illegal for Champagne AOC.

    That juice must be sold off, distilled, or declassified.

    Juice Has a Timeline

    Regardless of region, pressing typically unfolds in stages:

    Free Run Juice

    • Flows without pressure
    • Aromatic
    • Low phenolics
    • Often kept separate

    Light Press

    • Gentle pressure
    • Balanced structure
    • Prime real estate for quality wine

    Hard Press

    • Higher pressure
    • Increased bitterness
    • More solids
    • Used sparingly or blended cautiously

    Press Wine

    • Darker
    • Tannic
    • Powerful
    • Sometimes used for structure in reds

    Is one pressing better?
    Not inherently. The magic lies in how and when they are blended.

    Same Press, Different Goals

    White Wine

    • Pressed before fermentation
    • Goal: clarity, acidity, aromatic purity
    • Oxygen exposure is tightly controlled

    Red Wine

    • Pressed after fermentation
    • Alcohol increases extraction
    • Press wine can be bold, structured, and useful

    Many winemakers treat press wine like spice: too much ruins the dish, but a touch adds depth.

    When Nature Holds Back, Craft Steps Forward

    Low-yield vintages have a way of revealing who the true artists are.

    Frost, hail, drought, poor fruit set—when the vines give less, the cellar feels it immediately. Tanks look emptier. Press cycles feel longer. And every decision carries more weight. In these years, the temptation to chase volume is real, but the finest winemakers know that pressing harder is rarely the answer.

    Instead, artistry shows up in how pressure is applied, not how much.

    Rather than increasing press force, experienced hands often extend press cycles, allowing juice to release slowly and naturally. More time between press steps lets gravity do the work, coaxing additional juice without tearing seeds apart or dragging bitterness into the must. It’s a quieter extraction, but a smarter one.

    Low-yield years also bring a finer lens to fractionation. Where generous vintages allow for easy discard of late press juice, lean years invite careful evaluation. Free run, early press, mid press, late press—each fraction is tasted, assessed, and trialed independently. Nothing is assumed. Nothing is wasted. Some lots may find their way into second wines, others into earlier-drinking cuvées, and some never make the final blend at all.

    For red wines, press wine becomes a more prominent conversation. Its structure and density can be invaluable in a year where natural concentration is high but volume is low. Used judiciously, it adds backbone. Used carelessly, it overwhelms. The difference lies not in machinery, but in judgment.

    Nowhere is restraint more codified than in Champagne. Even in punishing vintages, the laws remain unmoved. The cuvée and taille fractions are fixed, and juice beyond the legal yield simply cannot become Champagne. The response is never to force extraction, but to lean harder on reserve wines, blending skill, and patience. In Champagne, scarcity does not justify compromise—it demands mastery.

    Ironically, low yields often require less aggression, not more. Smaller berries mean higher skin-to-juice ratios, faster phenolic pickup, and a narrower margin for error. The press becomes a scalpel, not a hammer.

    This is where true winemakers separate themselves from technicians. Anyone can extract more juice. Only artists know when another drop costs too much.

    Pressing, at its highest level, is not about efficiency. It is about listening—
    to the fruit, to the vintage, and to the long arc of the wine yet to come.

    When Physics Meets Bureaucracy

    Pressing is not just technical—it’s legal.

    Examples:

    • Champagne: Strict yield and fraction limits
    • PDOs in Europe: Juice yield caps per hectare
    • Prosecco DOCG: Pressing methods influence classification
    • Germany: Press fractions affect Prädikat eligibility
    • Rosé regulations: Skin contact time and pressing method define legal style

    Wine laws exist to protect typicity, but they also enforce restraint. You can’t press your way into greatness if the law won’t let you.

    Pressing Is a Philosophy

    Pressing is where restraint reveals itself.

    It’s where great winemakers prove they understand that more extraction is rarely better, that elegance is coaxed, not forced, and that the finest wines are often born from what was not taken.

    So next time you sip a crystalline Blanc de Blancs or a silken Pinot Noir, remember:
    that wine’s finesse was decided long before yeast ever showed up.

    And that, dear friends, is why pressing grapes is one of the quietest flexes in all of winemaking. 🍷

    Cover Photo by Pedro Rebelo Pereira on Pexels.com

  • Tokaji: Hungary’s Golden Secret

    Tokaji: Hungary’s Golden Secret

    …and why you should stop being afraid of it 😉

    Tokaji is one of the world’s most misunderstood wines—and frankly, one of its most rewarding. Tiny bottles, unfamiliar words, strange numbers, and labels that look like they were designed by a medieval scribe… no wonder most people reach for Sauternes instead. Safer. Familiar. French.

    But Tokaji is older, deeper, more versatile, and—dare I say—more soulful.

    If you’re a wine lover with even a passing interest in history, sweetness balanced by acid, or hidden gems that reward curiosity, Tokaji isn’t intimidating at all. It’s an invitation.

    Related SOMM&SOMM article: Wine Styles: Late Harvest Wines

    A Little History & Lore (Because Tokaji Has Plenty)

    Tokaji comes from northeastern Hungary, in the Tokaj-Hegyalja region, near the borders of Slovakia and Ukraine. This is not a “new discovery” wine. Tokaji Aszú was being made centuries before Sauternes—with documented production as early as the mid-1600s.

    In fact:

    • Tokaj was the first classified wine region in the world (1737)—nearly 120 years before Bordeaux.
    • Louis XIV famously called Tokaji “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum”—The Wine of Kings, the King of Wines.
    • It was a favorite at royal courts across Europe, from the Habsburgs to the Russian Tsars.

    And yes, there’s lore: monks, misty autumn mornings, noble rot creeping slowly across vineyards as the Bodrog and Tisza rivers create the perfect fog-and-sun rhythm. Tokaji didn’t stumble into greatness—it was engineered by nature and refined by time.

    The Grapes Behind the Magic

    Tokaji is not a single-varietal wine in spirit, even if one grape dominates.

    Furmint (the star)

    • High acid (crucial for balance)
    • Neutral to apple-pear-citrus when dry
    • Transforms beautifully with botrytis
    • Think: green apple, quince, citrus peel, honeycomb, wet stone

    Hárslevelű

    • Softer acidity
    • Floral, herbal, linden blossom notes
    • Adds perfume and roundness

    Supporting Cast (used in smaller amounts)

    • Sárgamuskotály (Yellow Muscat) – aromatics and spice
    • Zéta – botrytis-prone, boosts sweetness
    • Kövérszőlő – richness and texture

    Furmint provides the spine. Everything else adds flesh, fragrance, and intrigue.

    Tokaji Aszú – Beemwej, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Tokaji Styles: More Than Just Sweet Wine

    Here’s where Tokaji really starts to surprise people.

    1. Tokaji Aszú (The Icon)

    Made from individually harvested botrytized berries (aszú berries), traditionally added to a base wine.

    Sweetness used to be measured in Puttonyos (the number of baskets of aszú berries added):

    • 3–6 Puttonyos (historically)
    • Today, most producers focus on 5 or 6 Puttonyos-level richness or simply label sweetness in grams

    Flavor profile:

    • Apricot jam
    • Orange marmalade
    • Honey
    • Ginger
    • Saffron
    • Toasted nuts
    • Laser-bright acidity holding it all together

    This is where Tokaji earns its crown.

    Tokaji Eszencia: Emdee, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    2. Tokaji Eszencia (Liquid Myth)

    Not really wine in the traditional sense.

    • Free-run juice from aszú berries
    • Ferments extremely slowly
    • Often 1–3% alcohol
    • Astronomical sugar
    • Tiny production

    Think:

    • Nectar
    • Honeyed citrus oil
    • Dried tropical fruit
    • Eternal finish

    This is something you sip by the teaspoon and contemplate your life choices.

    3. Szamorodni (The Insider’s Favorite)

    Made from whole bunches—some botrytized, some not.

    Two styles:

    • Édes (Sweet) – oxidative, nutty, honeyed
    • Száraz (Dry) – sherry-like, savory, saline, almond-driven

    If you love Jura, aged Fino Sherry, or oxidative whites… dry Szamorodni will blow your mind.

    4. Late Harvest Tokaji

    • Made from overripe grapes
    • Often labeled Késői Szüret
    • Lusher and more approachable
    • Excellent gateway Tokaji

    5. Dry Tokaji (Dry Furmint)

    Yes—Tokaji can be bone dry.

    • Crisp
    • Mineral
    • Apple, pear, citrus, volcanic stone
    • Think Chablis meets Grüner meets something unmistakably Hungarian

    These wines are phenomenal with food and criminally underrated.

    Decoding the Label (Without Panicking)

    Here’s your Tokaji cheat sheet:

    • Aszú – made from botrytized berries
    • Puttonyos – traditional sweetness level (less common today)
    • Édes – sweet
    • Száraz – dry
    • Szamorodni – whole-cluster style
    • Eszencia – ultra-concentrated nectar
    • Furmint / Hárslevelű – grape varieties
    • Dűlő – vineyard (single-site quality cue)

    If you can read a German Riesling label, you can conquer Tokaji.

    Pairings (This Is Where Tokaji Shines)

    Tokaji is not just a dessert wine. That’s the biggest misconception of all.

    Classic Pairings

    • Foie gras (legendary for a reason)
    • Blue cheese (Roquefort, Stilton, Gorgonzola)
    • Apricot tart
    • Almond pastries

    Unexpected & Brilliant

    • Spicy Thai or Szechuan dishes
    • Indian curries with ginger and turmeric
    • Moroccan tagines
    • Roast pork with stone fruit
    • Duck with orange or cherry glaze

    Dry Tokaji Pairings

    • Roast chicken
    • Pork schnitzel
    • Mushroom dishes
    • Alpine cheeses
    • Seafood with beurre blanc

    Szamorodni Pairings

    • Aged cheeses
    • Salted nuts
    • Mushroom risotto
    • Anything umami-forward

    Eszencia Pairing

    • Silence
    • A quiet room
    • One small spoon
    • Awe
    Bottles of Tokaji – takato marui, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Why Tokaji Matters

    Tokaji isn’t just a wine—it’s a bridge between:

    • Sweet and savory
    • History and modernity
    • Intellectual curiosity and pure pleasure

    It rewards patience, but it doesn’t demand pretension. And for sommeliers and wine lovers with a passion for the obscure, Tokaji is the kind of bottle that reminds us why we fell in love with wine in the first place.

    So next time you’re tempted to grab the Sauternes because it feels easier…

    Don’t.

    Reach for Tokaji.
    Your palate will thank you—and your wine stories will be better for it. 🍷

    Cover Photo: Michal Osmenda, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

  • Tawny vs. Ruby Port

    Tawny vs. Ruby Port

    Winter’s Warmest Debate (and How to Drink Them Both Like a Pro).

    When winter settles in and the thermostat drops a few degrees lower than comfort would prefer, fortified wines step confidently into the spotlight. They don’t whisper; they glow. And among them, Port is having another well-deserved moment. Again.

    But as bottles come off shelves and into glasses, one question reliably resurfaces fireside and at tasting tables alike:
    What’s the real difference between Ruby Port and Tawny Port—and how should I be enjoying each?

    Croft Port Wine Cellar – Ricardo Martins, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    A Shared Origin, Two Very Different Journeys

    All true Port comes from Portugal’s Douro Valley and begins life much the same way:

    • Indigenous grapes
    • Fermentation halted early by the addition of grape spirit (aguardente)
    • Residual sugar preserved
    • Alcohol boosted to roughly 19–20%

    From there, aging choices—not grapes—define Ruby versus Tawny.

    Ruby Port: Youth, Power, and Primary Fruit

    Think: fireplace crackle, dark berries, and velvet curtains.

    Ruby Port is all about freshness and intensity. After fermentation, it’s aged briefly—usually 2–3 years—in large stainless steel tanks or concrete vats. These vessels limit oxygen exposure, preserving the wine’s deep color and fruit-forward personality.

    What’s in the glass?

    • Color: Deep ruby to purple-black
    • Aromas: Blackberry compote, black cherry, cassis, plum
    • Palate: Lush, sweet, bold, youthful
    • Finish: Rich, direct, fruit-driven

    Ruby Port is unapologetically exuberant. It doesn’t want to evolve quietly—it wants to perform.

    Best ways to enjoy Ruby Port

    • Slightly cool (60–65°F) to balance sweetness
    • In a classic Port glass or small wine glass
    • As a dessert wine or a decadent after-dinner sipper

    Ruby Port pairings (winter-approved)

    • Flourless chocolate cake
    • Dark chocolate truffles
    • Blue cheese (especially Stilton or Gorgonzola)
    • Chocolate-dipped dried figs
    • Black forest–style desserts

    Why it works: Sugar and fruit tame bitterness, while alcohol lifts richness off the palate.

    Tawny Port – pedrik, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Tawny Port: Time, Oxidation, and Graceful Complexity

    Think: leather-bound books, toasted nuts, and candlelight.

    Tawny Port takes a slower, more contemplative path. It’s aged in small oak barrels, where gentle oxidation transforms both color and flavor. Over time, ruby hues fade to amber, mahogany, and tawny—hence the name.

    You’ll often see age indications: 10, 20, 30, or 40 Year Tawny. These aren’t exact ages, but stylistic averages representing increasing complexity.

    Related article: The Organoleptic Process

    What’s in the glass?

    • Color: Amber, copper, tawny
    • Aromas: Toasted almond, hazelnut, caramel, dried fig, orange peel
    • Palate: Silky, layered, less sweet-seeming
    • Finish: Long, nutty, contemplative

    Tawny Port doesn’t shout. It invites you closer.

    Best ways to enjoy Tawny Port

    • Lightly chilled (55–60°F)—especially higher-aged Tawny
    • In smaller pours; complexity rewards patience
    • As a standalone meditation wine or paired thoughtfully

    Tawny Port pairings (cold-weather classics)

    • Pecan pie or walnut tart
    • Crème brûlée
    • Aged cheeses (Comté, aged Gouda, Manchego)
    • Roasted nuts with rosemary
    • Apple or pear desserts with caramel

    Why it works: Oxidative notes mirror toasted, nutty flavors while acidity keeps sweetness in check.

    Ruby vs. Tawny: The Quick Take

    Ruby PortTawny Port
    Fruit-forwardNutty & oxidative
    Aged brieflyBarrel-aged for years
    Bold & youthfulElegant & complex
    Chocolate pairingsNut, caramel & cheese pairings
    Great in cocktailsExceptional chilled or neat

    Winter-Worthy Port Cocktails (Yes, Really)

    Port is a fortified wine—but don’t underestimate its versatility behind the bar. These cocktails are cozy, refined, and dangerously easy to love.

    The Winter Port Old Fashioned (Ruby)

    • 2 oz Ruby Port
    • ¼ oz bourbon or aged rum
    • 1 barspoon maple syrup
    • 2 dashes aromatic bitters

    Stir with ice, strain over a large cube.
    Garnish with an orange peel and brandied cherry.

    Ruby Port brings fruit and sweetness; the spirit adds structure without overpowering.

    Tawny Port Manhattan (Low-Proof Elegance)

    • 2 oz Tawny Port
    • 1 oz rye whiskey
    • 2 dashes orange bitters

    Stir with ice, strain into a coupe.
    Garnish with expressed orange peel.

    Tawny’s nutty oxidation mimics aged vermouth, making this cocktail plush yet balanced.

    Photo by TomBen on Pexels.com

    Which Port Should You Choose?

    • Choose Ruby Port when you want bold fruit, indulgent desserts, or a cocktail-friendly fortified wine.
    • Choose Tawny Port when you crave nuance, quiet warmth, and something that feels like winter slowing down.

    Better yet—keep both on hand. Winter is long, evenings are cold, and Port was designed for exactly this moment 😉

    To warming what’s inside while the season cools what’s out. May your glass be small, your Port be generous, and winter feel just a little shorter. 🍷

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    Cover photo credit: Jon Sullivan, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons