Two Palates, One Passion—Wine, Spirits, Food, and the Stories Between

SOMM&SOMM

Category: Wine Regions

  • Old World Regions: Burgundy

    Old World Regions: Burgundy

    Revised 4/20/2025.

    In eastern France, where rolling hills meet ancient limestone escarpments, Burgundy unfolds like a living manuscript of wine history—written in vine rows and aged in cellars carved by monks. Here, winemaking is not merely a craft; it’s a centuries-old dialogue between land, grape, and soul. Burgundy’s greatness is etched into its terroir, refined by monastic hands, and immortalized through Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

    Burgundy’s Historical Tapestry

    Though the Romans first planted vines here, it was the devotion of medieval monks—particularly the Cistercians and Benedictines—that truly shaped Burgundy’s wine culture. These devoted stewards mapped the land like viticultural cartographers, identifying climats (individual vineyard sites) and meticulously observing how every slope and soil nuance altered the wine. Their legacy gave birth to Burgundy’s intricate classification system, still revered today.

    By the 15th century, Burgundy had become liquid royalty. The wines of the Dukes of Burgundy graced the courts of Europe, their reputation carried by whispers of elegance and depth.

    Photo by ROMAN ODINTSOV on Pexels.com

    Chablis

    In Burgundy’s northern reaches lies Chablis, a land where Chardonnay sheds its oaky costume and reveals its truest self—tense, mineral, and vibrantly alive. The town’s quiet charm belies its global renown for producing wines of razor-sharp clarity and poise.

    What gives Chablis its unmistakable signature?

    • Kimmeridgian Soil: Layers of ancient limestone laced with fossilized oyster shells create a mineral core that defines the wine. You can almost taste the prehistoric sea.
    • Cool Continental Climate: Slow ripening preserves acidity and finesse, crafting wines that are bright, steely, and bracing.
    • The Serein River: This quiet ribbon of water softens spring frosts and helps moderate the region’s microclimate.

    Appellations of Chablis:

    • Chablis AOC: Crisp and direct, with citrus, green apple, and that flinty edge that defines the region.
    • Premier Cru: More complex, with structure and elegance. Forty designated climats bring subtlety and layered depth.
    • Grand Cru: Just seven vineyard sites, perched on the sunniest slopes above the town. These wines are dense, refined, and age-worthy, showing a Chardonnay of regal stature.

    Chablis producers typically avoid overt oak influence. Stainless steel or neutral oak lets terroir take center stage. Grapes are often hand-harvested, a nod to the region’s reverence for precision.

    Côte d’Or

    Divided into Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, the Côte d’Or is Burgundy’s vinous heartland—a golden slope of vines that has birthed some of the most sought-after wines on Earth. Here, the word “climat” holds power, denoting micro-plots of land so revered that UNESCO granted them World Heritage status.

    Côte de Nuits

    Running south from Dijon, this slender ribbon of vineyards is hallowed ground for Pinot Noir. It’s where the grape achieves its most ethereal expressions—silken yet structured, earthy yet floral.

    • Gevrey-Chambertin: Bold and muscular, with dark fruit and spice. A favorite of Napoleon.
    • Vosne-Romanée: Perfumed, haunting, and impossibly elegant. Home to Romanée-Conti, the holy grail of Pinot.
    • Chambolle-Musigny: Ethereal and silky, like satin laced with violets.

    The land is a mosaic of limestone, marl, and clay, with east-facing slopes catching the gentle morning sun. Each vineyard has its own personality—its own voice in the Pinot Noir choir.

    Côte de Beaune

    Head further south, and the reds soften while the whites begin to shine with crystalline brilliance. Côte de Beaune is the birthplace of iconic Chardonnay—wines that dance between richness and elegance, lifted by acidity and grounded by mineral depth.

    • Meursault: Creamy and nutty, with golden orchard fruit and a whisper of oak.
    • Puligny-Montrachet: Precision and grace. Citrus, chalk, and white flowers.
    • Chassagne-Montrachet: Fuller-bodied, sometimes smoky, always refined.

    For reds, Volnay offers delicate and floral Pinot Noir with a silk-threaded structure, while Pommard brings a more muscular edge.

    Côte Chalonnaise

    South of the Côte d’Or, the Côte Chalonnaise is often overlooked—and unfairly so. This region offers authenticity, value, and wines with character that punches well above their appellation status.

    The landscape opens up, the climate warms slightly, and the diversity of soils (limestone, marl, and clay) creates ideal conditions for both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

    • Rully & Montagny: Vibrant whites with citrus zest, white peach, and a touch of saline minerality.
    • Mercurey & Givry: Energetic reds with red fruit, spice, and subtle earthy undertones.

    These are wines that reflect place, not prestige—and that’s exactly their magic. For sommeliers and seekers, it’s a playground of discovery.

    Mâconnais

    Traveling further south, the Mâconnais greets you with warmth—in both climate and character. This is where Chardonnay loosens its collar a bit, showing a rounder, riper side that’s no less expressive.

    Sun-drenched slopes and varied soils—from granite to limestone—produce wines that are generous and fruit-driven yet still rooted in mineral elegance.

    • Mâcon-Villages: An approachable, floral, and fruit-forward introduction to the region.
    • Saint-Véran & Viré-Clessé: Elegant, fresh, and subtly creamy Chardonnays with a whisper of stone fruit.
    • Pouilly-Fuissé: The star of the south. Rich but focused, often aged in oak, delivering finesse and depth without losing its Burgundian soul.

    Burgundy as a State of Mind

    To study Burgundy is to embrace complexity, patience, and nuance. It is not a region that gives up its secrets easily. But for those willing to walk its vineyard paths, taste its terroir, and listen to its whispering vines, Burgundy offers more than just wine—it offers a deeper understanding of harmony between man, grape, and earth.

    Cheers 🍷

  • Varietal Spotlight: Gamay

    Varietal Spotlight: Gamay

    Gamay made the iniquitous journey from Burgundy’s past to Beaujolais’ future. Burgundy, renowned for its exquisite Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, has a lesser-known grape variety in its history that once played a prominent role but was ultimately removed from the region’s vineyards. This grape is none other than Gamay, which found a new home and a fresh lease on life in the neighboring Beaujolais region. I’ve always been fascinated with the history of Gamay and specifically why it was expelled from Burgundy.

    A Complicated Love Affair

    Gamay’s presence in Burgundy dates back to the 14th century. It was planted widely in the region, particularly in the southern part of Burgundy, known as the Mâconnais. Gamay quickly gained popularity for its ease of cultivation, generous yields, and fruity, approachable character.

    However, Gamay’s success came with its share of controversies. The grape’s prolific nature often led to overproduction, diluting the quality of Burgundy wines. Winemakers in the heart of Burgundy, particularly in the Côte d’Or, where Pinot Noir was the star, viewed Gamay with disdain. They believed that its presence threatened the reputation and potential of their beloved Pinot Noir.

    we solemnly command you…all who have said vines of Gameez to cut them down or have them cut down, wherever they may be in our country, within five months.

    Duke Philip the Bold – July 31, 1395

    The 1395 Edict

    In 1395, Duke Philip the Bold of Burgundy (apparently, a relentless wine critic) issued an edict that essentially banished Gamay from the region. This decree prohibited the cultivation of Gamay in the Côte d’Or, the heartland of Burgundy’s wine production. The Duke’s motivations were multifaceted. He aimed to protect the image of Burgundy wines, emphasizing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as the region’s noble grapes. Additionally, he sought to curb overproduction and maintain quality control.

    Wines of Beaujolias – featuring the Gamay Grape

    A Resilient Grape Finds a New Home

    While Gamay faced exile from Burgundy, it found a welcoming home in the neighboring region of Beaujolais. Beaujolais embraced Gamay and developed its own distinct style of wine, characterized by bright red fruit flavors and an emphasis on freshness. The region even created a unique winemaking technique called carbonic maceration, which enhances Gamay’s fruity and floral qualities.

    Today, Beaujolais is celebrated for its diverse range of Gamay wines, including Beaujolais Nouveau, Beaujolais-Villages, and the ten Crus of Beaujolais, each showcasing the grape’s potential in various terroirs.

    A Grape’s Journey and Redemption

    Gamay’s expulsion from Burgundy might have seemed like a tragic ending, but it led to a remarkable rebirth in Beaujolais. The grape’s history is a testament to the dynamic and ever-evolving world of wine. Today, Gamay wines from Beaujolais are beloved for their charming, fruit-forward character, offering a delightful contrast to the more serious and complex Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays of Burgundy.

    While Gamay’s presence may have been erased from Burgundy’s vineyards, its legacy endures as a symbol of resilience and adaptability in the world of viticulture, reminding us that sometimes, a change of scenery can lead to a grape’s true potential being fully realized. Gamay is currently allowed to be grown in Côte d’Or. Confusingly, however, Gamay is not allowed in wines produced within its namesake region ‘Saint Aubin sur Gamay’ 😉

    Give this peasant varietal a try. It pairs perfectly with roast chicken, garlicky sausages, or soft cheeses!

  • Old World Regions: Bordeaux

    Old World Regions: Bordeaux

    Bordeaux is a timeless elixir of history, terroir, and tradition. It’s a name that resonates with wine enthusiasts worldwide and is synonymous with excellence in winemaking. Nestled along the serene banks of the Garonne River in southwestern France, the Bordeaux wine region is a hallowed ground for cork dorks ;), boasting a rich history, distinct terroirs, and a complex classification system that sets it apart as one of the world’s foremost wine-producing regions.

    A Glimpse into Bordeaux’s Enigmatic Past

    Bordeaux’s history as a wine-producing region dates back to Roman times when the first vineyards were planted. However, it was during the 12th century, under the rule of Eleanor of Aquitaine and her marriage to Henry II of England, that Bordeaux wines gained international recognition. The English became avid consumers of Bordeaux wines, creating a demand that laid the foundation for Bordeaux’s global reputation.

    “…you are not to conclude I am a drinker. My measure is a perfectly sober 3 or 4 glasses at dinner, and not a drop at any other time. But as to those 3 or 4 glasses I am very fond.”

    Thomas Jefferson

    During the 17th century, Dutch engineers drained the marshlands and introduced a more systematic approach to winemaking, paving the way for Bordeaux’s vineyards to thrive. In the 18th century, Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States, became an ardent admirer of Bordeaux wines, further elevating their prestige. I had the opportunity several years ago to ogle over (look but don’t touch) two bottles from Jefferson’s collection. The bottles were locked inside a wire cage, covered in dust, each donning a small white price tag–$20,000. 

    Left Bank vs. Right Bank: A Tale of Two Terroirs

    One of the key distinctions in Bordeaux lies in its geographical diversity, which results in two distinct terroirs: the Left Bank and the Right Bank. Here is the breakdown…

    Left Bank

    – Located to the west of the Gironde Estuary and the Garonne River.

    – Predominantly features Cabernet Sauvignon as the dominant grape variety.

    – Famous appellations include the Médoc, Pauillac, Margaux, and Saint-Julien.

    – Produces wines known for their structured, tannic character and aging potential.

    Right Bank

    – Situated to the east of the Gironde Estuary and the Dordogne River.

    – Merlot is the primary grape variety, complemented by Cabernet Franc and sometimes Malbec.

    – Renowned appellations include Saint-Émilion and Pomerol.

    – Produces wines characterized by their elegance, supple texture, and approachability in their youth.

    Bordeaux Region in Southwest France

    Bordeaux’s Classifications: A Pyramid of Prestige

    Bordeaux boasts a complex classification system, which adds an extra layer of intrigue to its wines. The most famous classifications include:

    1. Bordeaux AOC:

       – The base level of classification, offering wines that showcase Bordeaux’s classic characteristics.

       – These wines can come from anywhere within the Bordeaux region and are typically approachable and affordable.

    2. Bordeaux Supérieur AOC:

       – A step above the Bordeaux AOC, with stricter quality control standards.

       – Often produced from older vines, resulting in more concentrated flavors.

    3. Médoc and Graves Classifications:

       – Within the Médoc and Graves regions, several châteaux are classified as Cru Bourgeois or Cru Artisan, signifying wines of consistently high quality.

    4. Saint-Émilion Classification:

       – Saint-Émilion has a unique classification system that is revised periodically.

       – It includes three main categories: Grand Cru Classé, Premier Grand Cru Classé “B,” and Premier Grand Cru Classé “A.”

       – These classifications indicate the quality and prestige of the wineries.

    5. 1855 Classification of the Médoc:

       – Arguably the most famous classification in Bordeaux, it was established for the Exposition Universelle de Paris.

       – Divided into five growths or “crus,” with the Premier Cru being the highest tier.

       – Châteaux such as Château Margaux and Château Latour hold this esteemed title.

    The complete list of all five first growths include:

    1. Château Latour
    2. Château Lafite Rothschild
    3. Château Margaux
    4. Château Haut Brion
    5. Château Mouton Rothschild

    Bordeaux’s intricate classification system reflects the region’s unwavering commitment to maintaining the quality and reputation of its wines.

    Bordeaux’s allure lies in its rich history, diverse terroirs, and complex classification system. Whether you’re sipping a bold Cabernet Sauvignon from the Left Bank or enjoying the velvety embrace of a Merlot-based wine from the Right Bank, Bordeaux offers a wine experience like no other. Its journey from ancient Roman vineyards to its present-day global prestige is a testament to the enduring artistry and craftsmanship of Bordeaux winemakers. With each bottle, Bordeaux encapsulates centuries of tradition, making it an enduring and timeless elixir for wine lovers around the world.

    Cheers 😉