We’ve all spent many hours reading scores and reviews from some of the most well-respected wine aficionados in the world. In most cases, we align our tastes with the palette of one of these professional wine critics. I tend to lean more towards the tastes of Robert Parker than James Suckling, but both provide a peek into the characteristics and profile of even the most obscure wines.
There is no escaping the fact that a high score from one of the well-known critics will almost always boost demand. Personally, I have been known to seek out wines that have achieved a perfect score from either Robert Parker or James Suckling. Even before opening these wines, my expectations have been set. The wine should be incredible–almost life-changing. I don’t always agree with the ratings, but these scores have definitely had an impact on which wines I buy and which wines I avoid.
Tammy and I have decided to share our wine-centric wit and wisdom by introducing a new series–The Deans’ List. Before you English majors begin the barrage of comments, let me defend the plural possessive proper noun 😉 Our last name is Dean. Together, we are the Deans (plural). Our list of wines and evaluations–resulting from the SOMM&SOMM profile and analysis–is accurately named The Deans’ List (plural possessive). It also doesn’t hurt to have a natural play on a phrase associated with academic achievement.
Unlike the academic list… wines added to the SOMM&SOMM Deans’ List will include a Grape Point Average (GPA) based on the SOMM&SOMM approach to evaluating wines. Our methodology includes metrics important to consumers–such as pair-ability and share-ability. We are always interested in classic food and wine pairings, and will continue to expand on these ideas in our Perfect Pairings series. Other measurements–such as Old World or New World Characteristics, Effects of Climate, Effects of Geography and more–will provide a different (and hopefully useful) perspective into these wines.
Great wine isn’t cheap, and cheap wine can be good but rarely great 😉
-Gregory Dean 2021
Recognizing the fact that any given varietal can produce countless variations and seemingly endless styles, we think it’s important to rate wines on (1) how well they represent (e.g. stay true to) their terroir, (2) the balance and complexity, (3) the approachability and versatility, and (4) the overall value. You know… the stuff important to consumers. Great wine isn’t cheap, and cheap wine can be good but rarely great 😉 We hope to uncover some of these hidden gems.
Sample SOMM&SOMM Summary Card (not an actual evaluation)
Most of us naturally evaluate wine every time it hits our glass. It can be difficult, however, to evaluate wine objectively. Just because it’s not my favorite doesn’t mean it’s not a good representation of wines of the same style from the same region. The summary card for each wine provides a quick glance at all the usual characteristics plus an overlay of the average (typical) characteristics.
As part of our evaluation process, we will include details with recommendations for pairing and sharing. Our wine evaluation and overall analysis will ultimately lead to a Grape Point Average (GPA). A 4.0 Grape Point Average is the highest possible score, and reserved for wines that best represent wines of the same varietal, region, and style.
Be sure to subscribe to this blog and be the first to receive notifications when new wines are added to the SOMM&SOMM Deans’ List 😉
Several years ago while visiting Las Vegas we had the opportunity to taste (ok… drink) a few ‘secret’ cocktails from The Chandelier Bar at The Cosmopolitan. One of the cocktails, called the Verbena, was an experience like no other. The cocktail itself was a creative lemon-ginger riff on the classic Margarita, but the addition of the edible garnish brought the cocktail to a different level.
The flowering herb Acmella oleracea (grown in the tropics) has many different names–such as toothache plant, buzz button and Szechuan button. The seemingly timid looking garnish causes a tingling sensation to the inside of your mouth and tastebuds when chewed. From there, the entire cocktail is elevated into an experience worthy of repeating again and again (and again).
Of course we needed to recreate the experience for family and friends, so the first order of business was to find the ‘buzz buttons.’ A quick search on Google pointed us to Marx Foods where you can buy them in bulk. At the same time, I found a website to order Yuzu juice and placed an order for two bottles. Both bottles were damaged and the juice (most of it) leaked out. I was able to taste the Yuzu juice, and in my complete frustration with the supplier decided to use common juices to create the same flavor profile.
This recipe uses the combination of lime, orange, grapefruit and lemon to get the Yuzu-like flavor of the original cocktail.
The Verbena
1 ½ oz. Tequila (Herradura Blanco)
1 oz. Ginger Syrup
½ oz. Lime Juice
½ oz. Grapefruit Juice
1 oz. Orange Juice
1 oz. Lemon Juice
1 Szechuan Button (marxfoods.com)
Place all of the liquid ingredients in a shaker, add ice and shake vigorously. Pour into an ice-filled glass, add the Szechuan Button and enjoy.
The best things happen outside your comfort zone. The first few months of this journey left Tammy and me mentally exhausted, but at the same time energized. Keeping this journey of oenology and viticulture a secret was an enormous challenge. Every interaction with our friends and family was an opportunity to reveal our plans, but somehow we kept it under wraps–at least for a minute or two 😉 One reason to keep it hush hush was to save ourselves from embarrassment in the event something went terribly wrong.
We have attended (and hosted) many wine-centric events over the past fifteen months–during which time we shared some incredible wines paired with amazing cuisine–all contributing to our journey from enthusiasts to sommeliers. Our friends’ and family’s shared passion for wine was the inspiration needed to forge ahead with the first-step to becoming a certified sommelier. We are, in fact, eternally grateful to everyone who knowingly and unknowingly contributed to our success.
Special thanks to Scott and Alison White
Our friends Scott and Alison White have made us feel like there was nothing we couldn’t accomplish with a little hard work, and a lot of liquid courage (wine). Scott blazed the trail by being the first to jump into the deep-end of the wine knowledge pool. We embrace every opportunity to participate in his relentless pursuit of the perfect wine pairing dinner. We are in awe of his extensive collection of wine, and have cherished every moment of traveling, dining, and attending events with Scott and Alison.
Special thanks to Dima and Oksana Semenski
Dima and Oksana are responsible for our involvement in several local wine enthusiast clubs. They are good friends, gracious hosts (see Wine Experiences: A Taste of Adelsheim), and natural oenologist with a passion for robust old world reds and obscure whites. From the first time we met–at a local wine bar–to the many wine-related events and special occasions, Dima and Oksana have shared our love of wine and appreciation of wine knowledge.
Special thanks to Mike and Patti Weber
Mike and Patti are without a doubt two of the most fun-loving, life-embracing people we’ve ever met. We feel fortunate to be on their exhaustive list of friends. There have been countless events in their home–including Wine Experiences: The Debate–and each one somehow rivals past events. This is also true with casual get-togethers and spontaneous outings, where there are usually a bottle or three of Bordeaux making its way to our glasses 😉
While it is important to note that I am now on a first name basis with the FedEx guy–because of all the hard-to-find wines we’ve acquired and tasted along the way–the two local venues (95 and Vine and The Chalice Off Canal) played an important part in our journey. These wine bars both provided sanctuary and much needed escape from the textbooks. Not to mention an amazing selection of wines and wine-friendly food. Yes, please.
As mentioned in the title, this is just the beginning. There is so much to learn (and appreciate) as it relates to oenology and viticulture, it can truly be never-ending (in a good way). The Court of Master Sommeliers online courses were organized very well, and the instructors were engaging and professional. While not the same experience as the in-person Introductory Sommelier Course & Examination, we definitely gained tremendous knowledge. I’ve already started researching enrollment in the next level CMS course, as well as Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) courses.
What started out as a very clear path to sommelier-hood was quickly disrupted by the pandemic. This week, however, begins our final countdown to completing the Introductory Sommelier Course & Examination. If you’ve followed the journey, beginning with Enthusiast to Sommelier: Getting Started, you quickly realize how self-study followed by a two-day course and examination turned into a fifteen-month marathon. Sometimes it seemed more like a fifteen-month rollercoaster 😉 Fortunately, there was wine. Lots of wine!
The past few months have been non-productive. Summer is the time to enjoy the easy breezy lifestyle of casual get togethers and family gatherings. And while many (ok… all) of these events involved wine, it didn’t involve wine education. With the exception of several wine-themed events–such as tastings and food/wine pairings–very little progress was made towards preparing for the exam. All of that changed this week as we begin the final countdown.
We began the week with a bing-watching day of online classes hosted by various Master Sommeliers of The Court of Master Sommeliers. Then we each took six practice exams to get an idea of where we need to concentrate our studies. As expected, recalling most of the information about major wine regions was second nature. This was definitely not the case with the more diverse regions (e.g. Loire Valley). For the next four evenings, we will be diving deep into these challenging regions. If all goes well, we will have completed the course and examination by this time next week.
Amarone (pronounced aa-muh-row-nay) is one of the most intriguing and mystic wines you’ll ever experience. It hails from the Valpolicella, Veneto region in north-east Italy, and is deeply steeped in tradition. No… Amarone is not a grape variety. It is a specific style of wine unique to this region. The three main grape varieties used to produce Amarone include Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara (up to 15%). Most Amarone produced today use between 60% and 80% Corvina as the primary grape in the blend–contributing to its signature flavor. Other varietals are used alongside Covina, Rondinella and Molinara for basic Valpolicella wines. These include: Pelara, Negrara, Forsellina and Oseleta.
There are actually four (4) styles of distinct wines that come from the Valpolicella region. Recioto, Valpolicella, Ripasso and Amarone. Each uses a different blend of the local grape varietals mentioned earlier. The basic Valpolicella is light bodied and typically served slightly chilled. Some compare this wine to a traditional Beaujolais. I am yet to make this connection 😉 The remaining three styles, Amarone, Ripasso and Recioto all have something in common… dried grapes. That’s right, dried grapes! While according to legend, Amarone is a fairly recent discovery (1936), it has been around and vastly under appreciated for centuries.
To appreciate Amarone, we need to understand its connection to Recioto. Fashionable early Romans preferred their wines sweet. Very sweet. Recioto wines (or at least variations of) date back to 234 BC. Immediately following harvest, grapes are placed in racks to dry. This method, called Appassimento (grape drying), allows time for the water to mostly evaporate and sugars become concentrated. The resulting must (grape juice) is fermented into this hyper-sweet nectar of the Gods we call Recioto. The winemaker determined the level of sweetness by stopping fermentation before the yeast converts all the sugar to alcohol.
In the early days of Recioto production, the yeast sometimes remained active and continued to feed off the sugars. As a result, the wines were no longer sweet and much higher in alcohol. This style of wine did not resonate with the Romans, and was sold for cheap and used for cooking. Tastes changed over the years, and bitter recioto became Amarone–one of the most famous (albeit misunderstood) expensive wines in the world. Today Amarone wine is made through a deliberate process, not a result of unintentional extended fermentation.
Amarone della Valpolicella is now a recognized DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). This is the certification bestowed on regions of Italy indicating wines produced with the highest level of quality. Amarone wine begins as a garnet color with a ruby red rim (slight variation). Over time, the color of the wine gets lighter with reddish-brown brick tones. Every young red wine expresses fruit. The signature black cherry nose and palate of young Amarone takes on spicy notes as well as leather, old wood and even violet potpourri as it ages. Regardless, it is an amazing wine to serve with braised meats and mature cheeses. The biggest challenge with pairing this wine is understanding the impact a 15% alcohol wine can have on a particular dish.
If this sounds intimidating, perhaps you would rather start with a “Baby Amarone.” Ripasso, as it turns out, is made from the same grapes as its big brother–Amarone. And while the initial wine isn’t made from dried grapes (yes, I mentioned Ripasso and dried grapes above), it goes through a second fermentation with used Amarone dried grapes. This process produces an amazing wine with all of the pure characteristics of the ripe Covina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes with the added intensity of the previously used Amarone grapes. This is certainly a wine worth seeking out!
Absolutely love, love, love the new online classes offered by The Court of Master Sommeliers. The online Introductory Sommelier Course & Examination is broken down by sections, and closely aligns with the Introductory Sommelier Course 2019 Workbook. Every video lecture is presented by a master sommelier. All of the information given during the lectures reenforce the learning materials, but also dives much deeper into the details. Each master sommelier provides brilliant insight into their own experiences while inspiring you to continue the path through Certified Sommelier, Advanced Sommelier and finally—Master Sommelier 😉
It was hard to imagine how CMS would be able to maintain the same level of high standards and differentiation in the on-line environment as in the in-person classes. They absolutely nailed it! These classes are world class. The tasting portion of the classes fall strategically throughout the course, and features 18 different wines for honing your skills in using the CMS Deductive Tasting Method. Even though the classes are self-paced… it is very difficult to not ‘binge watch’ all 30 sections. We have, after all, grown accustomed to binging.
I wanted to make sure we were well into the online courses and curriculum before providing feedback. As of this blog post, Tammy and I have read and re-read everything prescribed by The Court of Master Sommeliers in anticipation of the two-day in-person course in October 2020. Due to the challenges associated with the pandemic, our course was moved several times… and eventually postponed indefinitely. It has been nearly one year since we started this journey, and it finally feels like there is an end in sight 😉
We have until November 2021 (six months) to traverse the lectures, learn the CMS Deductive Tasting Method, and take the exam. Given the fact that we’ve been in pursuit of this milestone for nearly a year, we decided to schedule the exam as early as we’d feel comfortable–August 2021. The lectures are designed to build upon what we’ve learned in the course reading materials. The master sommeliers move at a quick pace, but explain things in a way to help provide clarity to some of the vague and confusing areas in the curriculum. And while we certainly miss the interaction of an in-person classroom setting, the on-demand on-line experience has some good advantages.
As mentioned earlier, you have six months to complete the on-line course. Unlike the 2-day in-person Introductory Sommelier Course & Examination, you have unlimited access to the videos. If something was confusing, watch it again. Personally, I enjoy having a conversation about wine during a tasting. The online (self-paced) experience doesn’t offer the opportunity to stand up and present your impression and analysis of the wines. This is an important skill, and a big part of the #sommlife
I would encourage anyone seeking to expand their basic knowledge wine and related topics–such as viticulture and vinification practices, wine laws, major wine regions, grape varietals, and more–to enroll in this course. Knowledge is a good thing.
After several months of hiatus (not really), we are back on-track to participate in the Introductory Sommelier Course & Examination. It has been nearly one year since this journey began. Over the past six months, we have experienced three reschedules and several shifts in direction by The Court of Master Sommeliers brought on by the challenges of the pandemic. They have done an amazing job in proactively communicating with the CMS community, and adjusting the programs to accommodate safely and social-distancing guidelines.
As promised, The Court of Master Sommeliers developed an on-line solution for the Introductory Sommelier Course & Examination. Individuals who previously enrolled in one of the canceled live courses have the opportunity to transfer their registration to the online learning courses. The CMS team has even worked out details surrounding the Deductive Tasting Methodology exercises in the course. For each registration, Master the World wines will provide a wine kit specific to the program.
We are looking forward to being part of the initial launch, and continuing our goals through the new online learning environment. We’ll miss the face-to-face experience and live interaction in the classroom, but I believe this approach will still lead us to the desired outcome–completion of the first step of our journey. This means, of course, passing the exam 😉
The Court of Master Sommeliers has partnered with ProctorU for administering the exams. There is an extensive list of technology, connectivity and workspace environment that must be followed during the proctored exam. And rightly so. Our online courses will begin on May 3, and the exams are scheduled in August. Looks like another few months of heads down in the books, and we will finally celebrate!
When people gather for wine-centric events, opinions flow as freely as the wine. It wouldn’t be educational if it weren’t for the lively debates. Imagine, however, an event specifically designed to spark a plethora of opinions over a specific varietal. In this case, it was the inaugural release of The Debate–Cabernet Franc. This 2016 collection of wines from Napa represent the best this region has to offer. And as intended… fueled plenty of debate 😉
Our good friends, Mike and Patti, hosted the evening. We were joined by other wine enthusiasts and good friends, Dima and Oksana, to round out our panel of opinionists (yes… I know that’s not a word).
Mike and Patti’s beautiful setup for our evening of The Debate – Cabernet Franc 2016
We began the evening with a Champagne toast while Mike explained the philosophy behind The Debate. As he went into detail surrounding the vision of Jean Hoefliger and Rob McKay, I began to appreciate the true uniqueness of this experience. These wines are very exclusive. In fact, only 80 cases of the 2016 Cabernet Franc in this horizontal tasting were produced. A single varietal, a single vintage, three reputable Napa Valley vineyards. A true indisputable horizontal tasting.
The dialog continued as anticipation was building for this epic tasting. The appetizers, we later find out are ‘pre-appetizers,’ were awesome 😉 Patti created an array of dishes–including chorizo meatballs, French onion tart, crostini made with pate and cherry preserves, and spinach-stuffed mushrooms (to name a few). The cheese and charcuterie board was over the top.
After several more minutes of lively discussion about what was to come, we moved to the special table. It was completely set up for this tasting. In addition to the informative placemats describing the vineyards, and scoresheets to document every aspect of these wines, there were four (4) mini carafes of wine at each setting. As it turns out… the fourth carafe contains a special surprise. More on this later.
You could say that we are all equally eristic!
-Gregory Dean
Each bottle was wrapped in paper printed with politics, sports and pop-culture headlines from 2016. The idea, of course, is to offer topics for debate.
While there is no shortage of opinions on any of these topics, this group loves to debate (compare and contrast) wine. You could say that we are all equally eristic! I mean this with the utmost respect for our opinionated wine-loving circle of friends 😉
Although from three different vineyards, all three wines in the 2016 The Debate – Cabernet Franc collection followed identical vinification processes. Each wine is 100% barrel fermented for 27 days on skins. The wines were aged for 23 months in 100% French oak (70% new). Terroir is the only difference in these wines, giving way to a true and uninhibited comparison of soil, climate, aspect (orientation of the vineyard), and farming practices affect on wine.
The Vineyards
Bettinelli’s Sleeping Lady Vineyard is where the grapes in our first wine were grown. This vineyard in west Yountville is named for the distinct foothills behind the property, which looks like a woman laying on her side. Known mostly for elegant, feminine Cabernet Sauvignon, Bettinelli’s Sleeping Lady Vineyard provides the perfect terroir to produce a The Debate-worthy Cabernet Franc.
Yountville is one of five distinctive towns in Napa Valley (not to be confused by regions). These towns include the city of Napa, Yountville, American Canyon, St. Helena, and Calistoga. Yountville is located in the heart of Napa Valley, and boasts some of the best restaurants around–such as The French Laundry. Yes, please 😉 The 46-acre Sleeping Lady Vineyard is located at the southwest boundary of the Yountville AVA.
The summer months in Yountville (an important time for grape growing) may reach peak temperatures of 90°F (31°C). In contrast, the night-time lows average in the mid-50°F (13°C). Rainfall averages 32 inches annually. And the elevation ranges between 20 and 200 feet above sea level. I often say that 80% of the wines we drink are from 20 varietals. This region produces 14 of them. The Sleeping Lady Cabernet Franc comes from vines grown at southern tip of the Yountville foothills in the alluvial Mayacamas Bench.
Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard was the second wine in our lineup. This Oakville appellation vineyard is known for growing grapes used in producing ultra-high-end Cabernet Sauvignon wines–such as the 100 point 2018 Alpha Omega. The 83 acre vineyard of Beckstoffer To Kalon is planted with two varietals–Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Only 10% of the grapes grown are Cabernet Franc, so this wine is extra special.
Oakville is just south of Rutherford and is my personal favorite Napa Valley appellation. It is, after all, the home of Far Niente, Nickel & Nickel, Silver Oak, Robert Mondavi, and Opus One to name a few. We all know that geography affects agriculture. From the valley floor to the mountainsides, this region boasts a wide range of terroir.
The majority of To Kalon is owned by Mondavi (450 acres). Opus One owns 100 acres. The University of California at Davis owns 20 acres. Beckstoffer Vineyards owns 90 acres. So, as you can see… these grapes are in good company. Some would consider To Kalon one of the ‘Grand Cru’ sites of Napa Valley. I would agree 😉
Constellation (which bought Mondavi in 2004) owns the very controversial trademark ‘To Kalon’ awarded to Mondavi in 1988. Over the years, several lawsuits have ensued for the rights of others to use the name of the very land they own on labels. Roughly a decade ago, Andy Beckstoffer was awarded the right for their clients to use the Beckstoffer To Kalon name. Paul Hobbs Beckstoffer To Kalon, at a humbling $549 per bottle, uses grapes from the Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard.
Nested at the edge of the Mayacamas Mountains, To Kalon receives the perfect amount of morning fog and full day sun to produce some of the undisputedly best grapes in the world.
Stagecoach Vineyard was third in the lineup. The rocky, volcanic terroir of this vineyard provides a very distinct contrast to the other vineyards in this tasting. Specifically, Stagecoach Vineyard has the cooling breezes of San Pablo Bay, a higher elevation (1,200 to 1,750 feet above sea level), and deep water sources beneath the vineyard to create the perfect terroir for some of the best fruit in Napa Valley.
Some of the most reputable wineries in Napa Valley source fruit from Stagecoach Vineyard. Well known wineries like Chateau Montelena and Quintessa, for example, have used grapes from Stagecoach Vineyard for decades. In 2017, E & J Gallo Winery purchased the 1,300 acre property for a reported $180 million dollars. The The climate across the vast 600+ acres of vineyards ranges from cool maritime of the Prichard Hill area to the less maritime climate of the Atlas Peak section.
Our Debate
The first wine was no sooner in the glass than we were treated with a special appetizer. Patti created a coconut-infused rice dish topped with scallops. Perfect! Mike continued to explain the intricacies of The Debate. Soon all three glasses contained the appropriate wines, and the sniff, swirl and sip process had begun.
All three wines were vibrantly colored with similar dark purple hues. The rim variations were predictably identical (same vintage). The rim colors, however, were the first sign of distinction between these wines. The terroir certainly influenced each wines unique rim colors. The Stagecoach Cabernet Franc had a bright pink outer rim reminiscent of a young Malbec wine. The Sleeping Lady Cabernet Franc rim color was a more subdued mauve, and the Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Franc was a bright violet color.
At first, the nose on the Sleeping Lady seemed subtle. Perhaps I was overtaken by all of the amazing aromas in the room. But once my olfactory senses recalibrated, I was able to pick up all of the aromatics of these wines. The Sleeping Lady had an earthy quality. I was picking up some forest floor notes alongside intense red fruit. Specifically, raspberry. As a general rule, I prefer to perform the single step on all three before moving to the next step. (i.e. swirl, swirl, swirl… sniff, sniff, sniff… taste, taste, taste) 😉
The Beckstoffer To Kalon jumped out of the glass. There was nothing held back. I was getting black fruit on the nose (blackberry), in concert with slate and wet trees. There were a few middle eastern spices trying to breakthrough. I thought the Stagecoach had several characteristics of the other two with the addition of herbs and figs. All three wines had very little alcohol burn on the nose. It was time for my favorite part of a wine tasting… tasting the wine!
During the first two steps in this process, several debates sparked. And while the tech notes for each wine was the silent referee, none of us were in 100% agreement with the winemakers analysis. This isn’t unusual. Especially for this group 😉
Just before we started tasting these amazing wines, Mike and Patti plated and served a feast of the senses. Prime rib, smashed potatoes, and grilled vegetables were served as the main course to pair with The Debate. This was awesome, and the timing was perfect. We were now able to compare and contrast these wines with and without food… fueling even more debate.
The first pass through the wine flight was intended to compare (and debate) each wine as a stand-alone experience. The Sleeping Lady was very well balanced with the right amount of acid, fruit, and tannin. It did have an interesting floral finish. There was a peculiar yet familiar characteristic Dima described as wet soil (I think), but not barnyard. Regardless, it was a very good wine with a lot of intense flavors. I thought this wine had a bitter finish that eventually faded. There was no bitterness when paired with the prime rib. Yum!
The Beckstoffer To Kalon seemed to be the most charismatic of the three. This, of course, was up for debate. The flavors and overall complexity of this wine were not immediately apparent. It burst with expression after a second or two on the palate. But when it did, the Beckstoffer To Kalon was a tapestry of dark fruit and spice. I absolutely loved this wine 😉 By this time we were testing the true diversity of these wines by revisiting Patti’s cheese and charcuterie plate. Roquefort blue cheese and the Beckstoffer To Kalon was a hit.
The Stagecoach wine was similar to the Sleeping Lady (in my opinion). It was very well balanced, but quite a bit more intense. It may have been the one closest to a Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. I believe the delicate nature of these wines, especially Stagecoach, create an opportunity for the fruits, herbs and earthiness to coexist. Black fruit dominated at first, then an rustic iron ore flavor started to come through. The Cabernet Franc is a thin-skinned grape resulting in wines with mellow tannins. This wine had more presence on the palette than expected from a higher-altitude wine (1500 ft).
I didn’t detect any pyrazinic characteristics (bell pepper, herbaceous, tomato vines) in the nose present in many in a Cabernet Franc wines. I also missed the typical red fruit aromas (cherry, strawberry). Mike and Patti’s choice of food to serve alongside this epic tasting was spot-on. The wines took on new personalities with each pairing. Certainly giving way for more discussion and debate.
Coup de Grace
The Debate to end all debates happened to be sitting in the fourth carafe the entire evening. Mike revealed The Ultimate Debate Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 as the final wine in our structured and extremely well organized tasting. This wine is without question in a completely different class. While it is, in fact, a blend of The Debate Cabernet Sauvignon and The Debate Cabernet Franc wines (all 6 vineyards), it enforces the philosophical theory of ‘strong emergence’… The whole is greater than the sum of its parts 😉
The Ultimate Debate, only available in a magnum, was according to Dima, “one of the top 3 wines I’ve ever tasted!” I thought this wine checked all of the boxes indicating what a wine should be. It had the finesse of a high-end Cabernet Sauvignon, but at the same time the complexity of an old vine Barossa Valley (Australia) Mourvèdre. This is a wine that will resonate with a wide range of persnickety palates.
While I could break out all of the proper sommelier-approved verbiage to describe The Ultimate Debate, I think it is best described as pure silk draped over rocks 😉 It was bold and opulent with vibrant fruit. The finish was round and polished. Ok… so I did pull out a few wine enthusiast descriptions. In short… it was awesome!
The evening was perfect! Mike and Patti are wonderful hosts, and we’re very fortunate to have been included in such an exclusive wine tasting evening. The Debate wines exceeded expectations… and the resulting conversations were lively, fun, and challenging. Oh, and did I mention the food?!?
Every two months or so we join four other couples in a themed event centered around wine, food and fun. The pandemic has impacted the frequency of these events, making the anticipation between gatherings nearly unbearable. It is usually (by design) an informal soirée filled with amazing wines and cuisine. This particular event–hosted by Dima and Oksana–exposed us to the amazing and under appreciated world of Pinot Noir wines of Oregon.
From past personal experiences, I was convinced that all pinots from Oregon were mediocre at best. Every now and again we would run across a wine that would make us sit up and take notice. This evening, however, we were introduced to a suite of wines deserving of our full undivided attention. Our impression of Pinot Noir wines from Oregon changed from ordinary to extraordinary in a few short hours. Here is how it happened.
The rules are simple for this group of ten–aptly named Club 10. Typically each couple brings two bottles of wine to discuss, debate, and most importantly–share. For this event, Dima and Oksana decided to limit each couple to one bottle, while providing lots of wine themselves as part of their themed event. Our hosts, Dima and Oksana, had the opportunity to visit several wineries in and around the Willamette Valley during a recent trip. One particular (and very memorable) experience centers around a very special winery in the Chehalem Mountains. Adelsheim is Chehalem Mountains’ first winery, and the center of this evening’s theme.
We arrived at the home of Dima and Oksana at 4:30pm, and were immediately introduced to one of the wines of the evening. An Adelsheim 2015 Sparkling Brut Cuvee was served and we all began sharing stories (and opinions) of wines from Oregon. I remember how our collective skepticism receded with each sip of this wine. We had not yet officially started the tasting, and everyone was intrigued and very excited about what was to come–a personalized guided tasting.
Virtual Tasting with Elizabeth Clark, CSW – Director of Education and Experience at Adelsheim Vineyard (Photographer: Erin Toung)
Dima and Oksana arranged for our Club 10 to experience a virtual online tasting with Adelsheim’s own Elizabeth Clark, Director of Education and Experience. At promptly 5:00pm, with a few clicks of the mouse, we were connected via Zoom and ready to learn more about the first winery of the Chehalem Mountains. By this time, the hosts had filled the table with an unbelievable assortment of specialty meats, cheeses, roasted vegetables, grilled calamari, fresh-baked bread and more. The stage is set… let’s go 😉
The Adelsheim 2015 Sparkling Brut Cuvee served earlier was reintroduced as the first pour for this six-wine journey through the wines of Adelsheim. This sparkler was a pleasant surprise. Being huge fans of Champagne, it was refreshing (no pun intended) to experience a sparkling wine produced with the same meticulous painstaking traditional method as Champagne.
The 2015 vintage is a blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay. It had a crisp, clean nose with bright citrus notes. As expected, the bread and yeast notes–a characteristic of sur lie aging–added the right amount of complexity to this sparkling wine. Amazing!
Our second pour was the first of four wines chosen to showcase the diversity of terroir in the Willamette Valley. The 2016 Breaking Ground Pinot Noir represents the best of the Chehalem Mountains AVA. The loam soil brings a rich quality to this wine.
Black cherry, black raspberry and a plethora of exotic spices dance playfully on the pallet. This wine reminds me of the pinots from Côte Chalonnaise. Both have distinct fruit alongside a very rustic earthy edginess. This wine was noticeably lighter in color than the reds of Côte Chalonnaise.
Next up was the very juicy 2017 Ribbon Springs Pinot Noir. At this point in our virtual tasting, we had completely disregarded the 2500 miles between our location and Adelsheim Vineyard. Elizabeth’s detailed explanation of the soils, climates and unique characteristics of each vineyard transformed us to the Willamette Valley.
This wine had a very distinct cherry nose. It was less earthy than the previous wine, but still had spice notes and noticeable tannins. As it turns out, this wine was aged for 10 months in French oak barrels (32% new).
The fourth wine brought us to an entirely new level. I remember looking at my personal carafe of 2017 Quarter Mile Pinot Noir and comparing the color to a Côte de Nuits pinot. It was noticeably lighter in color, but had a similar hue. The nose, unlike the previous wines, had distinct floral notes. The color and nose led me to believe this would be a sweeter wine–something along the line of a Beaujolais Nouveau (yes, I know the difference between Gamay and Pinot Noir 😉
I am convinced that hand-planting, hand-picking, sorting and processing of grapes create a noticeable difference in the final wine. This wine supported my theory, and really showcased the winemaking prowess of Adelsheim’s Gina Hennen. She describes this wine as a “study in grace and structure.” I could not agree more. From the first taste, I was hooked. The 2017 Quarter Mile Pinot Noir from Adelsheim is a masterpiece. The color is deceiving. There was nothing light, weak and pale about this wine. In fact, it was bold and at the same time elegant.
On to the 2017 Grand Oak Pinot Noir. Similar to our second wine, the 2016 Breaking Ground Pinot Noir, this wine was produced from vines planted in loam soil. This would be, however, the only common characteristic between these two wines. It’s the remaining contributors of the terroir–such as microclimate and orientation of the vineyard–that give this wine its unique characteristics.
This wine starts timid and shy, but soon after the wine hits your palette it begins to reveal a much deeper complexity and structure. From the delicate floral and faint fruit nose, to the evolving flavors of exotic berries and spices, this wine had a lot to offer. Loved it!
We rounded out our virtual tour and tasting of Adelsheim with the 2010 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir. One of the best parts of discovering new wine is learning the history and/or inspiration behind the label.
As the story goes… Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir is named after the daughter of founders David and Ginny Adelsheim–Lizzie. Lizzie represents a new generation, and in turn Elizabeth’s Reserve exemplifies the spirit and vision of Adelsheim Vineyard. Read the entire story here.
The moment this wine hit my glass I knew it was special. It was older than the previous wines, and had a very noticeable aging ruby color. We expect red wines to become lighter in color and less dense (more transparent) as they age. Sometimes we can gauge the vintage by the color of a wine. After swirling and admiring this wine… it was time to involve the other senses–smell and taste.
The moment this wine hit my glass, I knew it was special…
-Gregory Dean
For me, this wine is more closely aligned with the wines of Côte de Beaune. It reminds me of more recent Pommard vintages. The nose is very aromatic and concentrated, with florals, fruit and earthy notes. Leather and chocolate seemed to be more pronounced after each swirl of the glass, but would dissipate quickly. I took my first sip thinking how fun it would be to participate in a one-decade vertical of Elizabeth’s Reserve 😉
At first, it was full-bodied with fresh, bright cherries (I’m looking at you Pommard). Then the true personality of this wine emerges on my palette. It only took a few seconds for my tastebuds to experience intense red and dark fruit, rustic tannins, and velvety smoothness. My tongue was on a Tilt-a-Whirl 😉 Amazing!
The evening was a lot of fun. It had the perfect amount of discovery and education. We enjoyed every moment alongside great friends, incredible wines, boundless dishes, and the perfect hosts. Thanks Dima and Oksana!
There are many theories on the origin of this very trendy cocktail–the Singapore Sling. The most popular and least disputed involves an alchemist disguised as a bartender at the Raffles Hotel in Singapore 😉
At the start of the 20th century, a bartender named Ngiam Tong Boon working at the Long Bar in the Raffles Hotel, decided to create a cocktail specifically for the ladies. At the time, it was not proper for ladies to consume alcohol in public. Boon’s idea was to disguise the cocktail as fruit juice… and the rest is history.
Over the years I have seen (and tasted) many variations of this cocktail. Versions served in asian restaurants and high-traffic tourist areas are bright red in color and sickening sweet. My favorite version pays homage to the originator, and at the same time introduces a better balance between sweet, sour and bitter. Get your bar tools ready… here we go.
The French-produced Benedictine liquor brings herb and spice notes that seem to amplify the already complex flavors of gin. Cointreau tastes very different than its French cousin–Grand Marnier, and shouldn’t be substituted.
Place all of the ingredients into a cocktail shaker and shake until well chilled (about 30 seconds). Pour into a chilled martini glass (yes, that’s what I said), garnish with a cherry or three and enjoy. This is a 6 oz. (ok… just over 6 oz.) cocktail, so I prefer serving in a chilled sour glass. I really like the “drink specific” line of glasses from Ridel. The Sour Cocktail Glass is perfect for this drink.
SOMM&SOMM 
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