As the holiday season approaches, it’s time to gather around the table for the quintessential Thanksgiving feast. From roast turkey to sweet potato casserole, each dish brings its own unique flavors to the celebration. Elevate your Thanksgiving experience this year by exploring both traditional and unconventional wine pairings that will delight your palate and impress your guests. Read on as we journey through classic Thanksgiving dishes, guided by our passion as sommeliers (SOMM&SOMM), as we explore the perfect symphony of tastes.
Classic Turkey and Stuffing
The star of the Thanksgiving show is undoubtedly the roast turkey. Its savory, succulent meat pairs beautifully with a variety of wines. For a traditional choice, consider a medium to full-bodied white wine like a classic Chardonnay or a Viognier. These wines complement the turkey’s texture and enhance the subtle flavors of the bird.
For a twist, try a Pinot Noir or a Grenache. These red wines bring out the earthy notes in the stuffing and create a harmonious balance with the turkey’s richness. SOMM&SOMM recommends choosing a Pinot Noir with a hint of spice to add complexity to the pairing.
Sweet potato casserole, adorned with a layer of gooey marshmallows or crunchy pecans (Ruth’s Chris Sweet Potato Casserole Recipe), dances on the palate with a combination of sweet and savory notes. To complement this dish, opt for a white wine with a touch of sweetness, such as a Riesling or a Gewürztraminer. These wines balance the sweetness of the dish without overpowering it.
For a more unconventional choice, consider a rosé or a light-bodied red wine like Gamay. SOMM&SOMM suggests selecting a wine with bright acidity to cut through the sweetness of the casserole, creating a delightful contrast that will leave your taste buds wanting more.
Creamy mashed potatoes and rich gravy are the comforting soul of any Thanksgiving meal. A classic Chardonnay with buttery notes is a safe and satisfying choice. Its smooth texture complements the creamy potatoes and enhances the richness of the gravy.
For a bolder pairing, go for a sparkling wine or a Champagne. The effervescence cuts through the heaviness of the potatoes and cleanses the palate, preparing it for the next delicious bite. SOMM&SOMM recommends selecting a brut or extra brut style for a clean and refreshing experience.
No Thanksgiving feast is complete without a slice of pumpkin pie. The warm spices and creamy pumpkin filling call for a wine that can stand up to its bold flavors. A late-harvest Riesling or a Moscato d’Asti perfectly complements the sweetness of the pie.
For an unexpected pairing, try a tawny port or a sweet sherry. These fortified wines add depth and complexity, creating a memorable finale to your Thanksgiving meal. SOMM&SOMM suggests opting for a tawny port with notes of caramel and nuts to enhance the nutty crust of the pie.
This Thanksgiving, let your taste buds embark on a culinary adventure by exploring diverse wine pairings that elevate the classic flavors of the holiday. Whether you stick to tradition or venture into the realm of unconventional pairings, the expert guidance of a sommelier ensures a symphony of tastes that will make your Thanksgiving feast truly extraordinary.
In eastern France, where rolling hills meet ancient limestone escarpments, Burgundy unfolds like a living manuscript of wine history—written in vine rows and aged in cellars carved by monks. Here, winemaking is not merely a craft; it’s a centuries-old dialogue between land, grape, and soul. Burgundy’s greatness is etched into its terroir, refined by monastic hands, and immortalized through Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Burgundy’s Historical Tapestry
Though the Romans first planted vines here, it was the devotion of medieval monks—particularly the Cistercians and Benedictines—that truly shaped Burgundy’s wine culture. These devoted stewards mapped the land like viticultural cartographers, identifying climats (individual vineyard sites) and meticulously observing how every slope and soil nuance altered the wine. Their legacy gave birth to Burgundy’s intricate classification system, still revered today.
By the 15th century, Burgundy had become liquid royalty. The wines of the Dukes of Burgundy graced the courts of Europe, their reputation carried by whispers of elegance and depth.
In Burgundy’s northern reaches lies Chablis, a land where Chardonnay sheds its oaky costume and reveals its truest self—tense, mineral, and vibrantly alive. The town’s quiet charm belies its global renown for producing wines of razor-sharp clarity and poise.
What gives Chablis its unmistakable signature?
Kimmeridgian Soil: Layers of ancient limestone laced with fossilized oyster shells create a mineral core that defines the wine. You can almost taste the prehistoric sea.
Cool Continental Climate: Slow ripening preserves acidity and finesse, crafting wines that are bright, steely, and bracing.
The Serein River: This quiet ribbon of water softens spring frosts and helps moderate the region’s microclimate.
Appellations of Chablis:
Chablis AOC: Crisp and direct, with citrus, green apple, and that flinty edge that defines the region.
Premier Cru: More complex, with structure and elegance. Forty designated climats bring subtlety and layered depth.
Grand Cru: Just seven vineyard sites, perched on the sunniest slopes above the town. These wines are dense, refined, and age-worthy, showing a Chardonnay of regal stature.
Chablis producers typically avoid overt oak influence. Stainless steel or neutral oak lets terroir take center stage. Grapes are often hand-harvested, a nod to the region’s reverence for precision.
Côte d’Or
Divided into Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, the Côte d’Or is Burgundy’s vinous heartland—a golden slope of vines that has birthed some of the most sought-after wines on Earth. Here, the word “climat” holds power, denoting micro-plots of land so revered that UNESCO granted them World Heritage status.
Côte de Nuits
Running south from Dijon, this slender ribbon of vineyards is hallowed ground for Pinot Noir. It’s where the grape achieves its most ethereal expressions—silken yet structured, earthy yet floral.
Gevrey-Chambertin: Bold and muscular, with dark fruit and spice. A favorite of Napoleon.
Vosne-Romanée: Perfumed, haunting, and impossibly elegant. Home to Romanée-Conti, the holy grail of Pinot.
Chambolle-Musigny: Ethereal and silky, like satin laced with violets.
The land is a mosaic of limestone, marl, and clay, with east-facing slopes catching the gentle morning sun. Each vineyard has its own personality—its own voice in the Pinot Noir choir.
Côte de Beaune
Head further south, and the reds soften while the whites begin to shine with crystalline brilliance. Côte de Beaune is the birthplace of iconic Chardonnay—wines that dance between richness and elegance, lifted by acidity and grounded by mineral depth.
Meursault: Creamy and nutty, with golden orchard fruit and a whisper of oak.
Puligny-Montrachet: Precision and grace. Citrus, chalk, and white flowers.
Chassagne-Montrachet: Fuller-bodied, sometimes smoky, always refined.
For reds, Volnay offers delicate and floral Pinot Noir with a silk-threaded structure, while Pommard brings a more muscular edge.
Côte Chalonnaise
South of the Côte d’Or, the Côte Chalonnaise is often overlooked—and unfairly so. This region offers authenticity, value, and wines with character that punches well above their appellation status.
The landscape opens up, the climate warms slightly, and the diversity of soils (limestone, marl, and clay) creates ideal conditions for both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Rully & Montagny: Vibrant whites with citrus zest, white peach, and a touch of saline minerality.
Mercurey & Givry: Energetic reds with red fruit, spice, and subtle earthy undertones.
These are wines that reflect place, not prestige—and that’s exactly their magic. For sommeliers and seekers, it’s a playground of discovery.
Mâconnais
Traveling further south, the Mâconnais greets you with warmth—in both climate and character. This is where Chardonnay loosens its collar a bit, showing a rounder, riper side that’s no less expressive.
Sun-drenched slopes and varied soils—from granite to limestone—produce wines that are generous and fruit-driven yet still rooted in mineral elegance.
Mâcon-Villages: An approachable, floral, and fruit-forward introduction to the region.
Saint-Véran & Viré-Clessé: Elegant, fresh, and subtly creamy Chardonnays with a whisper of stone fruit.
Pouilly-Fuissé: The star of the south. Rich but focused, often aged in oak, delivering finesse and depth without losing its Burgundian soul.
Burgundy as a State of Mind
To study Burgundy is to embrace complexity, patience, and nuance. It is not a region that gives up its secrets easily. But for those willing to walk its vineyard paths, taste its terroir, and listen to its whispering vines, Burgundy offers more than just wine—it offers a deeper understanding of harmony between man, grape, and earth.
In the illustrious world of fine wines, few names evoke as much reverence and admiration as Chateau Margaux (my favorite first growth). Nestled in the heart of Bordeaux’s famed Margaux appellation, this historic estate has consistently produced wines of unparalleled grace and distinction. Among the numerous exceptional vintages that have emerged from its cellars, the 1977 Chateau Margaux stands as a shining example of Bordeaux’s timeless elegance and the estate’s unwavering commitment to excellence.
During a routine gathering of five wine-loving couples–appropriately named Club 10–one particular label stood out. While it isn’t unusual for wine-enthusiasts Brian and Erin Toung to share rare and unusual wines from their extensive collection, we knew right away that this night was going to be special. All of the wines were spectacular, and the 1977 Chateau Margaux provided by the Brian and Erin Toung lived up its reputation.
Club 10 – August 18, 2023 at the home of Mike and Patti Weber
History of Chateau Margaux
Chateau Margaux’s legacy dates back to the 12th century when the property was first cultivated as a vineyard. However, it wasn’t until the 17th century that it began to gain prominence under the ownership of the Marquise de la Colonilla. Under her careful stewardship, Chateau Margaux rose to prominence, earning the moniker “The Pearl of Bordeaux.”
Throughout its storied history, the estate has changed hands several times but always maintained its reputation for producing some of the world’s finest wines. The modern era ushered in a new era of precision winemaking under the guidance of André Mentzelopoulos, and later, his daughter Corinne Mentzelopoulos, who continues to oversee the estate today.
The 1977 Vintage: A Snapshot in Time
The 1977 Chateau Margaux vintage occupies a unique place in the estate’s annals. While not as legendary as some of the earlier vintages, such as the 1961 or the 1982, it remains a fascinating chapter in Chateau Margaux’s history. This vintage was marked by a temperate growing season with a mild summer, resulting in wines that exhibit a graceful finesse rather than raw power.
Tasting Notes from a Sommelier’s Perspective
The cork quickly disintegrated during several attempts to release it from its stable home of 46 years. After a slow ritual-like decanting, it was time to indulge 😉
Aroma: Upon pouring a glass of the 1977 Chateau Margaux, I was immediately greeted by a symphony of aromas. Delicate notes of dried flowers, violet, and rose petals danced alongside more profound scents of blackcurrant, plum, and cherry. The bouquet was enchanting and seductive, showcasing the wine’s maturity with grace.
Palate: On the palate, the wine continued to captivate with its finesse. The tannins had softened over the years, providing a silky texture that caressed the tongue. While the fruit had mellowed, it remained vibrant, revealing flavors of blackberry, cedar, tobacco, and subtle hints of leather. There was a lovely balance between the fruit and tertiary notes, making it a delight to savor.
Structure: The 1977 Chateau Margaux maintained an impeccable structure. It had a medium body with a long, elegant finish that leaves a trail of subtle spices and a touch of minerality. The wine’s acidity was still remarkably fresh, providing a sense of vitality that belies its age.
Pairing: This vintage calls for equally refined and nuanced cuisine. It paired perfectly with the French-inspired dishes meticulously prepared by our Club 10 hosts, Mike and Patti Weber. The wine’s elegance and complexity complemented these dishes beautifully.
An Experience Like No Other
The 1977 Chateau Margaux is a testament to the timeless allure of Bordeaux’s Margaux appellation and the unwavering commitment to quality at Chateau Margaux. While it may not be the most famous vintage from this legendary estate, it offed a unique opportunity to experience the grace and finesse that have made Chateau Margaux a household name among wine connoisseurs. With its mature aromas, silky palate, and impeccable structure, the 1977 Chateau Margaux continues to captivate the senses and remind us of the enduring excellence that defines this historic winery. Thanks Brian and Erin!
Few grape varieties offer as much versatility and expressive potential as Chardonnay. Within the Vitis vinifera family, it stands as one of the most adaptable varietals—capable of producing everything from zesty, mineral-driven wines to rich, barrel-aged expressions. Winemakers often call it the “blank canvas” grape, not because it lacks character, but because it reflects the sum of choices made in the cellar: oak or stainless steel, malolactic conversion or crisp acidity, extended lees aging or youthful freshness. Chardonnay mirrors technique—and that is precisely why professionals revere it.
The name Chardonnay originates from a small village in the Mâconnais subregion of Burgundy, France. While legends once traced its ancestry to medieval crusades or poetic tales from Cyprus, modern science has provided a far clearer understanding.
Thanks to genetic research—most notably by Dr. Carole Meredith of the University of California—we now know that Chardonnay is a natural cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. That lineage is meaningful: Pinot Noir has long been considered the noble grape of Burgundy, while Gouais Blanc was historically grown for everyday table wine. Their close proximity in vineyards centuries ago allowed for cross-pollination that ultimately produced the varietal we recognize today.
Interestingly, Gouais Blanc has been known by more than 140 different names—proof of its widespread cultivation—and yet it has all but disappeared today. Chardonnay, on the other hand, has become one of the most celebrated and widely planted grapes in the world.
Chardonnay and Terroir: A Natural Translator
Chardonnay is uniquely sensitive to terroir—the combination of soil, climate, altitude, water access, and topography that shape a wine’s character. For this reason, many Old World labels emphasize geographic origin more than grape variety.
Take Chablis, for example. It is not a synonym for Chardonnay, yet every wine labeled Chablis must be made from Chardonnay. The region’s cool climate and Kimmeridgian limestone soils produce wines that are lean, flinty, and mineral-driven—quite different from the fuller styles of, say, Sonoma or Margaret River. Thus:
All Chablis are Chardonnay, but not all Chardonnays are Chablis.
Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM
In Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, names like Montrachet (pronounced “Mon-ra-shay”) represent some of the most prestigious—and expensive—Chardonnays on earth. Further south, Pouilly-Fuissé in the Mâconnais region is known for producing ripe, elegant Chardonnays that balance fruit with structure. Nearly every Old World country—France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Austria, Portugal, Greece, Hungary, Croatia, and others—produces unique expressions shaped by specific terroir.
Old World generally refers to European, Middle Eastern, and North African wine-producing countries.
New World Chardonnay: Sunshine in the Glass
In contrast, New World regions such as California, Australia, South Africa, Chile, and Argentina typically experience warmer growing conditions. More sunlight means longer hang time, which increases sugar levels in the grapes. Higher sugar translates into higher alcohol during fermentation—one reason New World Chardonnays tend to be richer, fuller-bodied, and more fruit-forward.
These subtle temperature differences allow either the fruit or the influence of oak and lees to take the spotlight.
What About ‘Buttery’ Chardonnay?
The often-discussed buttery texture comes from malolactic conversion—a natural process where sharper malic acid (like that in green apples) is transformed into softer lactic acid (found in milk and cream). This adds texture and roundness while reducing acidity. Not all winemakers choose this technique; some prefer the crisp purity of a non-malo Chardonnay. Again—the grape simply mirrors the choice.
Chardonnay is also one of only three permitted grapes in Champagne—the sole white varietal allowed. In fact, when you see Blanc de Blancs on a Champagne label, it indicates the wine is made from 100% Chardonnay. Its elegance and aging potential make it highly prized in sparkling wine production around the world.
Stylistic Tools of the Winemaker
Chardonnay can express a wide range of styles depending on the methods used:
Stainless steel fermentation – preserves freshness and acidity
Oak aging – adds spice, texture, and complexity
Concrete eggs – enhance mouthfeel without imparting flavor
Malolactic conversion – softens acidity and adds creaminess
Lees stirring (bâtonnage) – contributes body and aromatic depth
Chardonnay, perhaps more than any other grape, tells the story of the cellar.
Too many to list—but each one showcases a different voice of the same grape.
A Final Thought
The best way to understand Chardonnay is to taste it across regions, styles, and techniques. In a gallery, we use our eyes to interpret a painting. With wine, we have the luxury of using three senses instead of one—sight, smell, and taste. Each glass reveals the winemaker’s intention and the land’s identity.
Next time you pour a Chardonnay, ask yourself: What story is the winemaker telling… and what is the vineyard whispering in the background? Cheers ❤️
Edited: Original post was written and published 2/18/2023. Refreshed and updated 11/29/2025
While many (or most) individuals choose a wine education and certification path specific to their goals–such as hospitality/service, consultant, distributor, etc.–I thirst for a broad yet detailed knowledge of all things wine. So, it just makes sense to add the award-winning WSET courses and curriculum to my perpetual wine-knowledge-seeking journey 😉
The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) offers four wine-focused courses and qualifications–including WSET Level 1 Award in Wines, WSET Level 2 Award in Wines, WSET Level 3 Award in Wines, and the prestigious WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines. As expected, each subsequent course is more demanding than its predecessor. From the very first level, individuals are introduced to a systematic approach to tasting and evaluating wine. Throughout all the courses, this approach evolves into a very important methodology required for successful blind-tasting during the exams and beyond.
Having first-hand knowledge of the tasting science taught by The Society of Wine Educators and the deductive tasting methodology of The Court of Master Sommeliers, I can appreciate the sometimes-not-so-subtle differences between these two and WSET’s Systematic Approach to Tasting (SAT). WSET’s approach to tasting is easier to grasp than the others, but they all use the same three core steps–individually describe and evaluate the wine by sight, smell and taste.
I chose the Napa Valley Wine Academy for my WSET courses. While there are several options, I liked the reputation of this organization. The WSET Level 2 Award in Wines course was online (also available in person), and fit my busy schedule. The online course consists of a five-week structured program including four live video conferences with an instructor. Traditionally, at the conclusion of the five-week program, you sit for a proctored timed exam. The student has one hour to answer 50 questions. The exam questions reinforce the information learned during the previous five weeks. For me, however, the timing between course completion and exam was greatly compressed.
While selecting all of the options during enrollment, and thinking the course was “self-paced,” I scheduled the exam with ProctorU roughly two-and-a-half weeks from my start date. So… as soon as the course materials arrived I began. Just after the second week, I sat for the exam 🙂
Now… onto Level 3 (10-week course). Only this time it is a requirement to take the exam in-person. Cheers!
There is no better way to learn about (and appreciate) wine than to get fully immersed in its rich history, culture, and traditions. Sometimes we get so involved in studying a wine’s properties–such as nose, taste, structure, and color–that we miss out on the characteristics that make the wine unique to a particular country, region or village. This is especially true for the less traveled old-world vineyards and wineries of Eastern and Central Europe. We recently participated in a traditional Georgian supra (სუფრა) and experienced a full day of traditional dishes, wine, toasts (many toasts) and Georgian culture complete with our own tamada (თამადა).
Our tamada, Dima, pours our first Georgian wine of the afternoon
Upon arrival, we knew right away that Dima and Oksana (our hosts) had meticulously planned an afternoon of wine, food and education to challenge our minds and stimulate our senses. Other than the high-level information about viticulture and vinification from our somm-studies, we knew very little about the history and culture of Georgian wines. That was about to change 😉
Our tamada, Dima, poured the first wine (2018 Marani Tsinandali) as we watched several very informative videos. Tsinandali is a dry white wine from the region of Kakheti. Although a blend of Rkatsiteli (80%) and Mtsvane (20%), it had a familiar nose. On the palette, the creaminess from being aged a short time in oak barrels reminded me of a Chardonnay. The tropical fruit notes, however, were reminiscent of a Pinot Grigio.
The closest match (at least to my palette) would be the Marsanne-Roussanne blends of Rhone, France–such as the Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc. While sharing a few characteristics of other dry white wines, this Tsinandali was truly unique and the perfect way to start our journey of Georgian wines.
Our wine-fueled discussions continued with a deep dive into the Country of Georgia and its long history of producing wine. Winemaking in Georgia can be traced back to the people of South Caucasus in 6,000BC. That’s right… archaeologists have uncovered clay wine vessels (called qvevris) that date back 80 centuries. With a basic understanding, and whole new appreciation for Georgia, we’re ready for our tamada-led supra–Gaumarjos!
From left to right: Dima (our tamada), Tammy, Greg, Oksana, Patti and Mike
A Georgian keipi (ქეიფი) would not be authentic without a tamada to lead and lecture. Dima wasted no time in leading us through the first of many though-prevolking and purposeful toasts. Several were off-the-cuff as expected, but most followed the deep-seated tradition of the Georgian supra.
“To family, friends, health, long life and laughter…”
The table was covered with amazing regional-inspired dishes which paired perfectly with the Georgian wines. The second wine in the lineup was a crisp aromatic dry white Chinuri (Iago Chinuri) from the Mukhran Valley. This no-skin-contact wine had a bright acidity and subtle minerality. Awesome!
The dry white wines of Georgia are really special. As with the Iago Chinuri, the next two (2) single-varietal wines are macerated in qvevris (also spelled kvevris). This ancient method of producing Georgian wine involves burying it underground for an extended period of time. In fact, it was the early Georgians that discovered grape juice buried in the ground for the winter would turn into wine. So, is Georgia the birthplace of wine? Hard to argue otherwise.
The third wine in the lineup was a single varietal traditional qvevri dry white Rkatsiteli from the Kakheti region (2017 Marani Rkatsiteli). It was nice to taste and enjoy this varietal stand-alone, and compare it to the previous blend (2018 Marani Tsinandali). The qvevri method gives this wine a very different profile. There was a hint of orange in the color (more like amber), but certainly not glowing neon like the California white wines that spend additional time on the skins.
The nose is intense and herbaceous. On the palette, this wine is very expressive. Some minerality exists, but the herb notes really come forward. This was a very nice wine, and really opened our eyes (and minds) to the lesser-known varietals. There are an astounding 500+ varieties of indigenous grapes in Georgia. Only 40 varietals are used in commercial production.
At this point, we were are all fully committed to the supra, and our tamada has led us through many toasts. Our wine glasses were never empty, as the discussions are focused on those special clay pots and their role in subterranean winemaking 😉
The fourth wine could not have been timed better. Smoked meats, specialty cheeses, deep-fried okra (my favorite), fresh bread, and a beet salad beyond words were perfect with this 2017 Marani Mtsvane. The qvevri orange wine was beautifully elegant with a long finish. The tannins, uncharacteristic in a white wine, were soft and smooth. Gaumarjos!
The 2017 Marani Mtsvane wine has forward notes of pitted fruits, and at the same time ripe melon lurks in the distance. I detected fruit tree blossoms on the nose. Generally speaking, amber/orange wines sacrifice fruitiness for tannins by spending up to six months on the skins. This particular wine, however, had the brightness of a white and the soft tannins of a red. Perfect springboard to the Georgian red wine lineup.
The time had come for a lesson in the art (and science) of making khinkali (ხინკალი). This giant dumpling–sometimes spelled ‘hinkali’–is thought to have originated in Georgia. Regardless, it is still a mainstay. Oksana taught Tammy, Patti and Mike the proper technique for filling and forming these delicious dumplings. Dima feverishly stirred a huge pot of seasoned boiling water and cooked the khinkali to perfection.
As we moved into the entrées, it was time to abandon the wonderfully intriguing white wines of Georgia and explore the world of expressive reds. The next two (2) wines were a great introduction into one of the most common varietals in Georgia–Saperavi.
First up (fifth in the lineup for those keeping score) was the 2016 Damani Saperavi. Initial impression was that this wine was faulty. It was somewhat bitter and unapproachable. After a few minutes, it began to resemble wine. Eventually the characteristics of a Saperavi varietal started to come through. Slightly smoky and light floral notes. Still a little bitter and acidic for this varietal.
This is only my third teinturier grape variety I’ve had the opportunity to taste. The other two were Gamay de Bouze and Chambourcin. Teinturier grapes have dark skins and dark flesh/pulp. Most red varietals have dark skins and clear flesh.
The sixth wine–also a Saperavi–was a 2019 Tanini Saperavi from the Kakheti region. This wine had an intense inky color typical of teinturier varietals. This unoaked red wine was surprisingly well-structured and balanced. The dark, ripe fruits and just the right amount of earthiness was perfect for what was next–lamb skewers.
The contrast between the 2016 Damani Saperavi and 2019 Tanini Saperavi wines was unexpected. Especially since both wines were produced in the same area (region). This cold-tolerant varietal is gaining momentum in the northeastern United States–notably in the Finger Lakes.
A few glasses into the red wines was the perfect time for the pièce de résistance. With a few bold Georgian reds next up on our journey, we were excited to try each paired with Dima’s char-grilled lamb skewers and the plethora of Oksana’s accompanying dishes. Gaumarjos!
Mukuzani is an area in Kakheti where they are only allowed to make dry wines from 100% Saperavi grapes. The seventh wine in our lineup, a 2018 Marani Mukuzani, was very charismatic. The nose was chocolate-covered cherries and vanilla spice (yes… in the same glass). This wine is dry and very well balanced. Perfect with the Georgian cuisine!
Unlike the two previous Saperavi wines, this Mukuzani was characteristic of old-world reds. The oak aging combined with the use of qvevris gently coax flavors of ripe, juicy fruit and prunes from the Saperavi grapes. Qvevris are buried in dirt cellars called ‘Marani,’ so it makes sense to name a company the same 😉
Mukuzani is 1 of 24 Protected Designations of Origin (PDO) wine appellations in the Country of Georgia. Each appellation concentrates on one main wine style (dry red, semi-sweet red, dry amber, sweet amber/fortified white, dry white, semi-dry white, semi-sweet white, sparkling white).
The eighth wine (whew) of our journey was a 2019 Marani Kindzmarauli. Kindzmarauli is an appellation that produces semi-sweet red wines. The Marani Kindzmarauli was very silky, and unlike the Mukuzani had more distinct blackberry and ripe cherry notes. The wine was expressive and bright. This is undoubtedly due to the wine being finished in stainless steel tanks as opposed to oak barrels.
Kindzmarauli is considered semi-sweet and certainly would have seemed sweeter if served slightly chilled. It was perfect with the grilled meats and rich dishes of our supra. Having the opportunity to experience all of the facets of this varietal was special… and very enlightening.
The ninth wine in the lineup was another semi-sweet red from the Kindzmarauli PDO. Our tamada opened a very special 2019 Teliani Valley Kindzmarauli late harvest wine. We typically associate late harvest with dessert wines. We’ve recently discovered, however, that semi-sweet Georgian wines would be considered not-so-sweet or semi-dry in other countries.
Tannic and flavorful. Dark fruit, spices and mocha on the nose. This wine stood up to the many flavors of our feast. The most interesting thing about the semi-sweet wines of Georgia is how perfectly balanced (and very unusual) to have tannins present. It works… and it works well. Gaumarjos!
The supra was rounded out by two amazing semi-sweet Georgian wines. Wine number ten in our lineup was a 2017 Damani Kindzmarauli. This wine stood on its own, although it was right at home with the Georgian fare. It was a little different than the other Saperavi wines of the tasting. For me, at least, it reminded me of a well-balanced red blend.
The eleventh and final wine of the supra was a perfect closer. The Old Telavi Khvanchkara red dessert wine was absolutely amazing! Made from a blend of Aleksandrouli and Mujuretuli grapes, it was lush and balanced. Filled with blackcurrant and raspberry aroma, the wine is juicy and slightly tannic. Yes, please!
This was one of the most fun and educational gatherings we’ve ever attended. We all have a new appreciation for the Georgian traditions of drinking, toasting and feasting. Dima and Oksana were incredible hosts. Their passion for wine, culture and cuisine was on full display. Dima and Oksana’s masterful creations perfectly complimented the wines of Georgia and our tamada’s artfully prepared toasts.
We had just barely finished celebrating the New Year when I first heard the news. In a very bold but predictable move, the famed Chateau Angélus withdrew from the 2022 Saint-Émilion ranking. Yep, in an instant… the volatile classifications of Saint-Émilion are again facing scrutiny. So, why all the drama?
Unlike the 1855 Classifications of Medoc and Graves on Bordeaux’s famed ‘Left Bank,’ the Saint-Émilion rankings are revisited approximately every 10 years. The last few reclassifications, however, have given way to public scrutiny and backlash from the wine community. While the idea of a constantly-evolving classification is noble, there is simply no way to avoid questions surrounding credibility when there is a clear conflict-of-interest.
“The optics alone screams controversy.”
-Gregory Dean
Hubert de Boüard, co-owner of Chateau Angélus, has been under fire for several years because of his participation in the national wine appellations committee. The optics alone screams controversy. In the very competitive world of wine, every advantage matters. I don’t believe, however, Hubert de Boüard was doing anything more than offering his many years of winemaking passion, experience and knowledge to help Saint-Émilion maintain the status and reputation it deserves.
The Saint-Émilion wine classification began in 1955–one hundred years after the very famous 1855 Bordeaux Classification–with the promise of revising status and standing every 10 years (or so). To date, there have been six classifications. The most recent was in 2012 and included eighteen First Grands Crus Classés. Four of the eighteen were First Grands Crus Classés A–including Chateau Angélus, Chateau Ausone, Chateau Chevel Blanc, and Chateau Pavie.
Currently (January 2022), Chateau Pavie is the only remaining Grands Crus Classés A estate from the 2012 classification. Chateau Ausone and Chateau Chevel Blanc withdrew in July 2021. It is an unfortunate fact that these classifications–as well as certain high-profile wine scores–influence popularity and pricing. Being elevated to the highest classification can instantly change a consumer’s perception of a particular Saint-Émilion chateau… but at the same time, a demotion to a lower classification can impact the winemaker’s bottom line.
That being said, the fact that these estates chose to distance themselves from the Saint-Émilion wine classification speaks volumes about how the benefits have become overshadowed by what has seemingly become a biased process. At least that’s what one court declared by fining Hubert de Boüard for his involvement in national wine appellations committee.
The evolving classification of Saint-Émilion will continue to motivate estates to maintain quality and consistency (that’s a good thing). Until tighter rules for regulating the classification process are implemented, it will remain the center of controversy in the ‘Right Bank’ of Bordeaux.
Wasting no time, I decided to jump right into the deep end of the wine-education pool. The study materials from our recent completion of The Court of Master Sommeliers – Introductory Course and Examination had just had time to cool down before a new set of study materials arrived. At first glance, I knew there was much to learn in preparation for the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) exam 😉
The Society of Wine Educators offer a variety of courses and exams leading to certifications for wine and spirits. The first step in my pursuit of a Society of Wine Educators Certified Wine Educator status is the highly respected Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). The course collateral includes a textbook and workbook filled with information required to pass the 100-question timed exam.
With the holidays just around the corner, the study-time window is closing. The level of detail in the course materials goes well beyond the Court of Master Sommeliers Introduction Course and Exam—as expected. This will be no walk-in-the-park. Regardless, there is much to learn and it is all very fascinating.
I absolutely love the deep dive into the chemistry of wine, the nuances of viticulture and the most obscure wine regions of the world. This curriculum provides the level of detail you would expect someone who is preparing for a career in wine education to know. As with the previous courses, there are also requirements for tasting, evaluating and identifying wines. Here we go 😉
The best things happen outside your comfort zone. The first few months of this journey left Tammy and me mentally exhausted, but at the same time energized. Keeping this journey of oenology and viticulture a secret was an enormous challenge. Every interaction with our friends and family was an opportunity to reveal our plans, but somehow we kept it under wraps–at least for a minute or two 😉 One reason to keep it hush hush was to save ourselves from embarrassment in the event something went terribly wrong.
We have attended (and hosted) many wine-centric events over the past fifteen months–during which time we shared some incredible wines paired with amazing cuisine–all contributing to our journey from enthusiasts to sommeliers. Our friends’ and family’s shared passion for wine was the inspiration needed to forge ahead with the first-step to becoming a certified sommelier. We are, in fact, eternally grateful to everyone who knowingly and unknowingly contributed to our success.
Special thanks to Scott and Alison White
Our friends Scott and Alison White have made us feel like there was nothing we couldn’t accomplish with a little hard work, and a lot of liquid courage (wine). Scott blazed the trail by being the first to jump into the deep-end of the wine knowledge pool. We embrace every opportunity to participate in his relentless pursuit of the perfect wine pairing dinner. We are in awe of his extensive collection of wine, and have cherished every moment of traveling, dining, and attending events with Scott and Alison.
Special thanks to Dima and Oksana Semenski
Dima and Oksana are responsible for our involvement in several local wine enthusiast clubs. They are good friends, gracious hosts (see Wine Experiences: A Taste of Adelsheim), and natural oenologist with a passion for robust old world reds and obscure whites. From the first time we met–at a local wine bar–to the many wine-related events and special occasions, Dima and Oksana have shared our love of wine and appreciation of wine knowledge.
Special thanks to Mike and Patti Weber
Mike and Patti are without a doubt two of the most fun-loving, life-embracing people we’ve ever met. We feel fortunate to be on their exhaustive list of friends. There have been countless events in their home–including Wine Experiences: The Debate–and each one somehow rivals past events. This is also true with casual get-togethers and spontaneous outings, where there are usually a bottle or three of Bordeaux making its way to our glasses 😉
While it is important to note that I am now on a first name basis with the FedEx guy–because of all the hard-to-find wines we’ve acquired and tasted along the way–the two local venues (95 and Vine and The Chalice Off Canal) played an important part in our journey. These wine bars both provided sanctuary and much needed escape from the textbooks. Not to mention an amazing selection of wines and wine-friendly food. Yes, please.
As mentioned in the title, this is just the beginning. There is so much to learn (and appreciate) as it relates to oenology and viticulture, it can truly be never-ending (in a good way). The Court of Master Sommeliers online courses were organized very well, and the instructors were engaging and professional. While not the same experience as the in-person Introductory Sommelier Course & Examination, we definitely gained tremendous knowledge. I’ve already started researching enrollment in the next level CMS course, as well as Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) courses.
Amarone (pronounced aa-muh-row-nay) is one of the most intriguing and mystic wines you’ll ever experience. It hails from the Valpolicella, Veneto region in north-east Italy, and is deeply steeped in tradition. No… Amarone is not a grape variety. It is a specific style of wine unique to this region. The three main grape varieties used to produce Amarone include Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara (up to 15%). Most Amarone produced today use between 60% and 80% Corvina as the primary grape in the blend–contributing to its signature flavor. Other varietals are used alongside Covina, Rondinella and Molinara for basic Valpolicella wines. These include: Pelara, Negrara, Forsellina and Oseleta.
There are actually four (4) styles of distinct wines that come from the Valpolicella region. Recioto, Valpolicella, Ripasso and Amarone. Each uses a different blend of the local grape varietals mentioned earlier. The basic Valpolicella is light bodied and typically served slightly chilled. Some compare this wine to a traditional Beaujolais. I am yet to make this connection 😉 The remaining three styles, Amarone, Ripasso and Recioto all have something in common… dried grapes. That’s right, dried grapes! While according to legend, Amarone is a fairly recent discovery (1936), it has been around and vastly under appreciated for centuries.
To appreciate Amarone, we need to understand its connection to Recioto. Fashionable early Romans preferred their wines sweet. Very sweet. Recioto wines (or at least variations of) date back to 234 BC. Immediately following harvest, grapes are placed in racks to dry. This method, called Appassimento (grape drying), allows time for the water to mostly evaporate and sugars become concentrated. The resulting must (grape juice) is fermented into this hyper-sweet nectar of the Gods we call Recioto. The winemaker determined the level of sweetness by stopping fermentation before the yeast converts all the sugar to alcohol.
In the early days of Recioto production, the yeast sometimes remained active and continued to feed off the sugars. As a result, the wines were no longer sweet and much higher in alcohol. This style of wine did not resonate with the Romans, and was sold for cheap and used for cooking. Tastes changed over the years, and bitter recioto became Amarone–one of the most famous (albeit misunderstood) expensive wines in the world. Today Amarone wine is made through a deliberate process, not a result of unintentional extended fermentation.
Amarone della Valpolicella is now a recognized DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). This is the certification bestowed on regions of Italy indicating wines produced with the highest level of quality. Amarone wine begins as a garnet color with a ruby red rim (slight variation). Over time, the color of the wine gets lighter with reddish-brown brick tones. Every young red wine expresses fruit. The signature black cherry nose and palate of young Amarone takes on spicy notes as well as leather, old wood and even violet potpourri as it ages. Regardless, it is an amazing wine to serve with braised meats and mature cheeses. The biggest challenge with pairing this wine is understanding the impact a 15% alcohol wine can have on a particular dish.
If this sounds intimidating, perhaps you would rather start with a “Baby Amarone.” Ripasso, as it turns out, is made from the same grapes as its big brother–Amarone. And while the initial wine isn’t made from dried grapes (yes, I mentioned Ripasso and dried grapes above), it goes through a second fermentation with used Amarone dried grapes. This process produces an amazing wine with all of the pure characteristics of the ripe Covina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes with the added intensity of the previously used Amarone grapes. This is certainly a wine worth seeking out!
SOMM&SOMM 
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