Category: Wine Style

  • Fall in a Bowl

    Fall in a Bowl

    Wine Pairings for Soups, Stews & Chili.

    There is something about the first cool evening of autumn that changes the way we eat.

    Suddenly, salads seem a little less interesting. Grilling gives way to simmering. The Dutch oven comes out of hiding. The kitchen fills with the aromas of onions, garlic, herbs and something that has been bubbling away for hours.

    And then comes the bowl.

    Soup. Stew. Chili. Braised everything.

    These are among the most comforting foods of the season—and some of the most difficult foods to pair with wine.

    Why? Because a bowl can contain an entire ecosystem of flavors. Fat, salt, acid, spice, sweetness, umami and texture can all show up in the same spoonful. The wine has to find a way into that conversation without shouting over it.

    When the pairing works, though, something wonderful happens.

    The wine doesn’t simply accompany the food.

    It becomes part of the dish.

    cooked food in the bowl
    Photo by Piotr Arnoldes on Pexels.com

    The Golden Rule of Bowl Pairing

    Forget the idea that every hearty dish needs a big, powerful red.

    Sometimes it does. Sometimes it absolutely doesn’t.

    The better approach is to consider the dominant personality of the dish.

    Is it rich and meaty? Tomato-driven? Spicy? Earthy? Creamy? Smoky? Herbaceous?

    Then look for a wine that either complements that personality or provides a little contrast.

    A rich stew may love the acidity of a Cabernet Sauvignon. A spicy chili might actually prefer something fruitier and softer. A creamy soup can become magical with a crisp white wine.

    And here’s the secret many people overlook:

    Acidity is your friend.

    Soups and stews can be rich, salty and intensely savory. A wine with good acidity refreshes the palate between bites and keeps the meal from becoming heavy.

    Think of it as the reset button.

    a baked dish in a pot
    Photo by Marcelo Verfe on Pexels.com

    The Classic Beef Stew

    Few dishes say fall quite like a traditional beef stew.

    Slow-cooked beef. Carrots. Potatoes. Onions. Celery. Garlic. Herbs. A rich broth, perhaps fortified with a little red wine.

    The flavors are deep, savory and earthy.

    The Bowl

    Classic Beef Stew

    • 2 lbs. beef chuck, cut into 1½-inch pieces
    • 3 tbsp olive oil
    • 1 large onion, chopped
    • 3 carrots, sliced
    • 3 celery stalks, sliced
    • 3 cloves garlic, minced
    • 2 tbsp tomato paste
    • 2 cups beef stock
    • 1 cup dry red wine
    • 1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, cubed
    • 2 sprigs thyme
    • 1 bay leaf
    • Salt and black pepper

    Brown the beef in batches. Sauté the vegetables, add the garlic and tomato paste, then return the beef to the pot.

    Add the stock and wine, tuck in the herbs and let everything simmer gently for about two hours. Add the potatoes during the final 30–40 minutes.

    The goal isn’t simply tender beef.

    It’s concentration.

    The Glass

    Cabernet Sauvignon

    Cabernet’s structure has enough backbone to stand alongside beef, while its acidity keeps the richness in check. Look for a Cabernet with ripe fruit and moderate oak rather than one dominated by tannin.

    Try instead: Cabernet Franc, Merlot or a Southern Rhône blend.

    And if you cooked the stew with red wine, serving that same wine alongside dinner can create a particularly seamless pairing.

    SOMM&SOMM TIP: Don’t automatically reach for the biggest Cabernet on the shelf. A stew doesn’t need a wine that overwhelms it. It needs one that can keep pace.

    close up shot of a chili sauce on a bowl
    Photo by Teja J on Pexels.com

    Chili: The Great Fall Debate

    Beans or no beans?

    Beef or turkey?

    Tomatoes or no tomatoes?

    Heat level?

    Every family seems to have an opinion.

    Fortunately, wine doesn’t have to take sides.

    The Bowl

    Classic Beef & Bean Chili

    • 1½ lbs. ground beef
    • 1 large onion, diced
    • 1 bell pepper, diced
    • 3 cloves garlic, minced
    • 2 tbsp chili powder
    • 1 tsp cumin
    • 1 tsp smoked paprika
    • 1 can crushed tomatoes
    • 1 can kidney beans
    • 1 can black beans
    • 1 cup beef stock
    • Salt and black pepper
    • Optional: cayenne or chipotle for additional heat

    Brown the beef and drain excess fat. Add the onion and pepper, followed by garlic and spices.

    Add the tomatoes, beans and stock.

    Then comes the hardest part:

    Wait.

    Let it simmer for at least 30 minutes. An hour is even better.

    Chili rewards patience.

    The Glass

    Zinfandel

    This is where things get interesting.

    Zinfandel’s ripe berry character and generous fruit can work beautifully with chili’s tomato, smoke and spice. Its relatively moderate tannin also makes it more forgiving with spicy foods than many highly structured reds.

    For a smoky chili, look for a Zinfandel with dark fruit and a touch of spice.

    Try instead: Syrah, Grenache or a juicy Malbec.

    What about the heat?

    Here’s where wine pairing gets really interesting.

    Capsaicin—the compound responsible for chili pepper heat—can make high-alcohol, heavily tannic wines feel hotter.

    So if your chili is bringing serious fire, consider a wine with:

    more fruit + less tannin + moderate alcohol.

    A slightly chilled red can also be surprisingly refreshing.

    Yes.

    Put the red wine in the refrigerator.

    Just for a little while.

    Your sommelier friends will survive.

    close up of a meal
    Photo by Laura Paredis on Pexels.com

    French Onion Soup

    Sometimes the most beautiful pairing begins with the simplest ingredients.

    Onions. Butter. Stock. Bread. Cheese.

    That’s it.

    Well… almost.

    The Bowl

    French Onion Soup

    Slowly caramelize 4–5 large yellow onions in butter and olive oil until deeply golden. Add thyme and garlic, then deglaze with about a cup of dry white wine.

    Add 6 cups of beef stock and simmer for 30 minutes.

    Ladle into oven-safe bowls, top with toasted baguette and Gruyère, then broil until the cheese is bubbling and golden.

    The key word here is caramelization.

    The onions bring sweetness and umami. The cheese adds fat and salt. The broth brings depth.

    The Glass

    Chardonnay

    But not just any Chardonnay.

    Look for one with bright acidity and restrained oak.

    A Burgundy-style Chardonnay can be especially lovely here. The wine’s acidity cuts through the cheese while its subtle richness echoes the texture of the soup.

    Try instead: Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Chenin Blanc.

    And this is one of those occasions when white wine absolutely deserves a place at the fall table.

    creamy mushroom soup with potatoes in white bowl
    Photo by Valeria Boltneva on Pexels.com

    The Hearty Mushroom Soup

    Mushrooms are autumn in edible form.

    Earthy. Forest-like. Savory. Almost mysterious.

    A creamy mushroom soup can be one of the most rewarding fall-and-wine combinations.

    The Bowl

    Creamy Wild Mushroom Soup

    Sauté a mixture of mushrooms—cremini, shiitake, oyster or whatever looks good at the market—with butter, shallots and garlic.

    Add thyme and a splash of dry white wine.

    Pour in chicken or vegetable stock and simmer until the mushrooms are tender. Blend part of the soup while leaving some mushrooms whole for texture.

    Finish with a little cream.

    The Glass

    Pinot Noir

    Mushrooms and Pinot Noir have a long-standing relationship for good reason.

    Pinot’s red-fruit character, earthy notes and relatively delicate tannins complement rather than overpower the mushrooms.

    The pairing feels almost intuitive.

    Try instead: Chardonnay, Gamay or a lighter-bodied Rhône red.

    SOMM&SOMM TIP: This is another example of why “hearty food = big red wine” doesn’t always work. Mushroom soup has plenty of flavor, but its texture and earthiness call for finesse rather than brute force.

    Image by Danny_boy64, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Chicken & Sausage Gumbo

    Fall doesn’t belong exclusively to Europe.

    Some of the best cold-weather bowls come from Louisiana.

    Gumbo brings layers upon layers of flavor: sausage, chicken, vegetables, stock, spices and that unmistakable depth created by a properly developed roux.

    The Bowl

    Chicken & Sausage Gumbo

    Make a dark roux with equal parts flour and oil, stirring patiently until it reaches a deep brown color.

    Add onion, celery and bell pepper—the Louisiana holy trinity—followed by garlic, smoked sausage, chicken stock, chicken and Creole seasoning.

    Simmer until everything comes together.

    Serve over rice.

    And keep the hot sauce nearby.

    The Glass

    Grenache

    Grenache can be a surprisingly good companion for gumbo. Its ripe red fruit handles the spice while its softer tannins avoid fighting with the sausage and seasoning.

    A Southern Rhône blend can add additional savory and herbal character.

    Try instead: Zinfandel or a dry rosé if the gumbo isn’t particularly hot.

    a person peeling an onion
    Photo by Boryslav Shoot on Pexels.com

    The Wine-Pairing Cheat Sheet

    When standing over a simmering pot wondering what to open, start here:

    If the bowl is…Reach for…
    Beefy & richCabernet Sauvignon
    Tomato-basedZinfandel or Sangiovese
    Spicy & smokyGrenache or Zinfandel
    CreamyChardonnay
    Mushroom-heavyPinot Noir
    Herb-drivenSauvignon Blanc
    Sausage-richRhône red blend
    Very spicyFruit-forward, lower-tannin red
    Rich but not spicyHigh-acid red or white
    Cheese-heavyChardonnay or Pinot Noir

    But remember: these aren’t rules.

    They’re starting points.

    delicious soup and bread on wooden table top
    Photo by ROMAN ODINTSOV on Pexels.com

    The Real Secret to Fall Pairing

    The best wine isn’t necessarily the most expensive bottle in the cellar.

    It is the bottle that makes you take another bite.

    Then another sip.

    Then another bite.

    That is the moment when pairing stops being an exercise in matching flavors and becomes something much more interesting.

    The wine changes the food.

    The food changes the wine.

    And suddenly that humble bowl of stew you’ve made a hundred times tastes a little different.

    Maybe even a little better.

    That’s the magic of pairing.

    And perhaps that’s what autumn is really about.

    Taking familiar things—cool evenings, a simmering pot, crusty bread, a good bottle of wine—and discovering that they can still surprise you.

    Pour generously. Simmer slowly.

    And whatever you do…

    don’t forget the bread 🍷

    Photo by Anna Pyshniuk on Pexels.com

  • The New Rules of Drinking

    The New Rules of Drinking

    Why wine isn’t disappearing—we’re simply changing the way we drink it.

    For generations, wine came with a fairly well-established set of rules. Red wine belonged with meat, white wine with fish, Champagne with celebrations, and cocktails were generally reserved for the beginning of the evening. There were rules about glassware, serving temperature, food pairings, vintages and even the proper way to talk about what was in your glass.

    Some of those rules were useful. Others were little more than tradition dressed up as law.

    toast with glasses of cold drinks
    Photo by Ngân Dương on Pexels.com

    Today, consumers are quietly rewriting the rulebook.

    That doesn’t necessarily mean people are abandoning wine or spirits. In many cases, they’re becoming more selective about how, when and why they drink. They’re exploring smaller formats, wine cocktails, ready-to-drink beverages and no- and low-alcohol alternatives while continuing to seek out premium wines and spirits for the occasions that matter to them. The result is not so much the decline of drinking as the personalization of it.

    From my perspective as a sommelier—and from years spent working in marketing and understanding why consumers make the choices they do—that distinction is particularly interesting.

    Because the beverage industry has traditionally organized itself around categories.

    Consumers increasingly organize themselves around occasions.

    wine barrels display in adelaide market
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    The End of “You’re Supposed to Like This”

    Wine has always had an interesting relationship with authority. Scores, medals, famous producers, prestigious regions and celebrated vintages all help us understand quality and provenance. They give consumers a vocabulary for navigating an enormous and sometimes intimidating world.

    But somewhere along the way, information occasionally became intimidation.

    A person can be made to feel that they don’t understand wine simply because they don’t enjoy Cabernet Sauvignon, don’t know the difference between Barolo and Barbaresco, or would rather have a $20 bottle than a $200 one.

    That’s changing.

    Today’s wine consumer is increasingly comfortable asking a much simpler question: Do I like it?

    That doesn’t make expertise irrelevant. Quite the opposite. A good sommelier can help someone discover why they enjoy something, introduce them to a grape or region they have never encountered, or suggest a bottle that will make a particular meal better. Knowledge should open doors, not put up barriers.

    Wine is more enjoyable when curiosity replaces intimidation.

    a man holding a wineglass
    Photo by Pavel Danilyuk on Pexels.com

    Wine Doesn’t Have to Be Serious All the Time

    Wine can be serious. Some wines deserve contemplation, discussion and perhaps a little reverence. A great Burgundy, Barolo or vintage Champagne can provide an extraordinary sensory experience and tell us something about its place of origin, its producer and its history.

    But wine can also simply be fun.

    That may be one reason wine cocktails are attracting renewed attention. Wine already brings acidity, fruit, aromatics and texture to a drink, so adding citrus, botanicals, bitters, vermouth, soda or fresh fruit isn’t really an assault on wine culture. It’s another way of experiencing it.

    The same applies to wines that don’t fit neatly into traditional categories. Pét-nat, orange wine, chilled reds and unconventional blends have found enthusiastic audiences precisely because they offer something different.

    The interesting part isn’t whether these styles conform to traditional wine culture.

    It’s that people are discovering them without particularly caring whether they do.

    close up of woman holding wine bottles
    Photo by Nikolai Lapshin on Pexels.com

    Smaller Bottles, Different Habits

    The 750ml bottle has been the standard for so long that we rarely stop to consider what it assumes: that you want approximately five glasses of the same wine and that you intend to drink them within a reasonable period of time.

    That’s not necessarily how people live anymore.

    Smaller bottles, cans, single-serve formats and other alternatives give consumers the ability to match the amount of wine to the occasion. A half bottle can make sense for two people having dinner. A single serve can be perfect for someone cooking at home. A smaller format can also make it easier to experiment with a wine without committing to an entire bottle.

    From a marketing perspective, this is an obvious opportunity. Reducing the commitment makes it easier for a consumer to try something unfamiliar.

    From a wine perspective, it simply gives us more reasons to open something interesting.

    Moderation Is Becoming Part of the Experience

    Perhaps the most significant change is the growing space between drinking and not drinking.

    The conversation around alcohol is becoming less binary. Someone might enjoy a glass of Champagne at dinner and choose a non-alcoholic cocktail the following evening. They might explore a lower-alcohol wine at lunch and order a full-bodied red with dinner. They may simply decide that some occasions call for alcohol and others don’t.

    That doesn’t necessarily diminish the drinking experience. It can actually make the occasion more intentional.

    The no- and low-alcohol category is particularly interesting because consumers are increasingly asking the same questions of these beverages that they ask of wine and spirits: Does it taste good? Does it have complexity? Does it work with food? Is it worth drinking even when alcohol isn’t part of the equation?

    That is a much higher bar than simply creating an alternative for someone who doesn’t want alcohol.

    And it is probably a healthy one for the industry.

    vibrant cocktail display on elegant bar counter
    Photo by Szymon Shields on Pexels.com

    The Occasion Is the New Category

    This may be the biggest lesson for anyone trying to understand today’s beverage consumer.

    People don’t necessarily decide what to drink based on a permanent preference for one category. They decide based on what they’re doing.

    A bottle of wine for an anniversary dinner is different from a bottle opened while grilling on a Saturday afternoon. A cocktail before dinner serves a different purpose than a glass of wine with the meal. A sparkling wine at brunch occupies an entirely different space from the Cabernet someone has been saving for a special steak.

    The person making all of those choices can be the same person.

    That’s why traditional demographic thinking doesn’t always explain beverage behavior very well. The same consumer can be adventurous one night, traditional the next and alcohol-free the night after that.

    The occasion changes.

    So does the glass.

    vineyard harvest in douro valley portugal
    Photo by Pedro Rebelo Pereira on Pexels.com

    Tradition Still Matters

    None of this means that the old rules are irrelevant.

    Understanding tradition is part of understanding wine. Knowing why Champagne is made the way it is, why certain grapes thrive in particular regions or why serving temperature changes the perception of a wine gives us a deeper appreciation for what’s in the glass.

    But tradition should be a starting point rather than a restriction.

    If you want to put ice in your rosé on a hot afternoon, go ahead. If you prefer your red wine slightly chilled, there’s no sommelier emergency hotline you need to call. If a particular wine tastes better to you in a tumbler than a Burgundy glass, that’s useful information about your experience of the wine.

    The rules are there to help us understand the beverage.

    They aren’t there to prevent us from enjoying it.

    a bottle and a glass of red wine on a terrace with the view of a city in the background
    Photo by Andrea Mosti on Pexels.com

    The Story Is Becoming More Important Than the Status

    Wine has long been marketed through prestige. Famous names, famous vineyards, high scores and celebrated vintages have enormous influence, and rightly so when they represent genuine quality.

    But consumers are increasingly interested in the story behind the bottle as well.

    Who made it? Where did it come from? Why is this grape grown there? What makes this producer different? What does the wine taste like, and what might I want to eat with it?

    Those questions create a different kind of value.

    A relatively inexpensive bottle with a great story can become the wine everyone remembers from a dinner. Meanwhile, an expensive bottle selected solely because someone told you it was important can occasionally become little more than an expensive bottle.

    Wine has always been remarkably good at creating conversation.

    Perhaps we’re simply becoming more interested in what the conversation is about.

    people seated around a table and drinking beer
    Photo by ELEVATE on Pexels.com

    So, Are We Drinking Less?

    That’s probably the wrong question.

    A more interesting question is whether we’re becoming more intentional about drinking.

    The evidence suggests that the beverage landscape is becoming more diverse rather than simply smaller. Wine cocktails, smaller formats, ready-to-drink products and no- and low-alcohol beverages are expanding the ways consumers can participate, while traditional wine and spirits remain important for consumers who value them. The industry is responding not by replacing the old world, but by adding more choices to it.

    And that may ultimately be the most important change.

    For a long time, beverage marketing tried to tell consumers what a particular product meant. This was a wine for sophisticated people. This was a spirit for adventurous people. This was the bottle you bought for a celebration.

    Today, consumers seem increasingly willing to decide that meaning for themselves.

    That’s a significant shift.

    Wine was never really just about alcohol. At its best, it is about place, food, people, conversation, celebration and memory. The bottle is simply how those things arrive at the table.

    So perhaps the new rules aren’t really about drinking more or drinking less. They’re about having more freedom to decide what belongs in your glass, and when.

    Know the traditions. Understand the reasons behind them. Learn enough to appreciate the difference between convention and quality.

    Then make your own choice.

    After all, the best wine rule may be the one that has always mattered most:

    Drink what you enjoy, with the people you enjoy, in the moments worth remembering 🍷

    Cover Photo by John Lines on Pexels.com

  • Varietal Spotlight: Carménère

    Varietal Spotlight: Carménère

    The Grape Bordeaux Lost.

    Few grapes have a better story than Carménère. Once an important variety in Bordeaux, it nearly disappeared following the phylloxera epidemic of the nineteenth century. For more than a century, the wine world assumed Carménère was gone.

    It wasn’t. It had simply been hiding in plain sight.

    In the 1800s, European grapevines were brought to Chile, including vines believed to be Merlot. Among them were Carménère vines that had been misidentified. Chilean growers continued cultivating them for generations without realizing what they had.

    The mystery was finally solved in 1994, when French ampelographer Jean-Michel Boursiquot recognized that some of Chile’s “Merlot” was actually Carménère. DNA testing subsequently confirmed the discovery.

    What might have been an embarrassing case of mistaken identity became one of the great stories of modern wine. Chile had unknowingly preserved a grape that had virtually disappeared from its native Bordeaux.

    Today, Carménère is one of Chile’s signature varieties—and a wine that deserves far more attention.

    cluster of ripe grapes on a vine
    Photo by Gina Meyers on Pexels.com

    A Grape With Personality

    Carménère belongs to the Cabernet family and shares some characteristics with both Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Like those varieties, it can exhibit a distinctive herbal character, but its generally softer tannins and generous fruit give it a personality all its own.

    A ripe Carménère typically shows blackberry, black cherry, plum and raspberry, accompanied by notes of paprika, black pepper, herbs, cocoa and sometimes tobacco. Oak-aged examples can add vanilla, cedar and baking spice.

    The characteristic that often causes the most confusion is its green-pepper note.

    Carménère naturally contains methoxypyrazines, aromatic compounds that can produce aromas reminiscent of green bell pepper and fresh herbs. When the grapes are harvested too early, these characteristics can become harsh and vegetal. When the fruit is properly ripened, however, they can become one of the wine’s greatest attractions, suggesting roasted pepper, paprika and savory herbs rather than raw green vegetation.

    That distinction is important. Herbaceous doesn’t necessarily mean underripe.

    In a well-made Carménère, the savory character provides a fascinating counterpoint to ripe fruit and gives the wine an identity that is difficult to confuse with anything else.

    Gaboedds, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    More Than One Style

    Carménère is sometimes treated as though it has a single personality, but its style varies considerably with vineyard site and winemaking.

    Fresh, fruit-driven examples tend to be medium-bodied, with cherry, raspberry and plum supported by soft tannins and refreshing acidity. These are excellent everyday wines and particularly approachable for someone discovering the variety for the first time.

    More concentrated examples show darker fruit alongside pepper, herbs, cocoa and spice. Premium bottlings may receive extended oak aging, developing greater structure and flavors of tobacco, chocolate, cedar and baking spice.

    There is also a more restrained side to Carménère emerging from cooler or higher-elevation vineyards. These wines can emphasize acidity, red fruit and herbal complexity rather than richness and power, demonstrating that the variety is capable of elegance as well as concentration.

    a person holding a wine glass with red wine
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    Chile’s Signature Red

    Chile remains the essential place to explore Carménère.

    Colchagua Valley is its modern stronghold and contains the country’s largest concentration of plantings. Warm days, a long growing season and cooling influences from the Pacific and Andes allow Carménère to develop the ripeness it needs while retaining freshness. Within Colchagua, Apalta is particularly noted for producing concentrated, age-worthy examples.

    Cachapoal Valley is another important source, producing wines that can balance ripe fruit with Carménère’s characteristic herbal and savory notes. The grape is also planted in Maipo Valley, where it can take on a somewhat darker, more structured profile.

    The differences between these regions are worth exploring. Carménère is not simply a “Chilean wine” with one predictable flavor profile. Like all serious varieties, it reflects its vineyard.

    close up shot of delicious empanadas on wooden chopping board
    Photo by Daniel Torobekov on Pexels.com

    Carménère at the Table

    One of Carménère’s greatest strengths is its versatility with food. Its moderate tannins, acidity and savory character make it considerably more flexible than many full-bodied reds.

    Start with the grill. Steak, skirt steak, lamb chops, pork tenderloin and sausages all work beautifully, particularly when herbs, garlic or smoky seasonings are involved.

    Chimichurri is an especially natural match. The parsley, oregano, garlic and herbs echo Carménère’s own savory character, while the wine’s acidity refreshes the palate.

    It also works wonderfully with roasted pork, duck, turkey, mushrooms, eggplant, lentils and roasted peppers. And if you want to experience the grape in its cultural home, try it with Chilean dishes such as empanadas, pastel de choclo or a traditional asado.

    For a vegetarian pairing, grilled portobello mushrooms or roasted vegetables with herbs can be surprisingly good.

    Serving Carménère

    Carménère is best served a little cooler than many people serve red wine—around 60–65°F (16–18°C). If the bottle has been sitting at typical room temperature, 20–25 minutes in the refrigerator can make a noticeable difference.

    Use a medium-to-large red wine glass, particularly for fuller-bodied examples. Young, straightforward Carménère generally needs little or no decanting, while a concentrated, oak-aged bottle can benefit from 30–60 minutes of air.

    Older bottles require more care. Rather than automatically decanting a mature Carménère for hours, taste it first and let the wine tell you what it needs.

    The best examples can age gracefully, developing tobacco, leather, cedar, dried herbs and earthy complexity as the fruit evolves.

    The SOMM&SOMM Take

    Carménère is much more than a historical curiosity or an inexpensive alternative to Cabernet Sauvignon. Its story may begin with a case of mistaken identity, but its future is firmly its own.

    If you’ve never explored the variety, start with a well-made bottle from Colchagua or Cachapoal. Serve it slightly cool, give it a little time in the glass and pair it with something from the grill—or simply a dish built around roasted vegetables and fresh herbs.

    Look for ripe dark fruit first, followed by pepper, spice and that distinctive herbal character.

    When Carménère is at its best, the green note doesn’t dominate. It adds complexity.

    And perhaps that’s the most fitting way to think about this remarkable grape. Bordeaux may have lost Carménère, but Chile gave it a second life—and, in the process, created a wine that has finally become comfortable in its own identity 🍷

    Cover photo by Agne27, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

  • Celebrating The Wisdom of Time

    Celebrating The Wisdom of Time

    What 45 years can teach us about wine, life, and love.

    Time is one of wine’s most important ingredients.

    Not because time automatically makes wine better—it doesn’t. Most wine is meant to be enjoyed relatively young, and even wines capable of decades of aging require the right combination of grape, structure, vintage, winemaking, and storage.

    What time does, when given the right foundation, is something more interesting.

    It reveals character.

    hand holding a glass of wine
    Photo by Seljan Salimova on Pexels.com

    A young wine may announce itself with vibrant fruit, bright acidity, and immediate energy. With age, those characteristics can evolve. Aromas become more complex. Texture softens. Secondary and tertiary characteristics emerge. Individual components that once seemed distinct can begin to form something more integrated.

    The wine hasn’t simply become older.

    It has become different.

    And that distinction offers an interesting way to think about something else that develops over time: a marriage.

    vintage wine collection in french cellar
    Photo by Liv Kao on Pexels.com

    The Vintage Matters

    In wine, vintage refers to the year in which the grapes were harvested. It is more than a date on a label. Weather, growing conditions, vineyard decisions, and countless variables throughout the season influence the character of the finished wine.

    No two vintages are exactly alike.

    Some seasons are generous. Others challenge the grower. Heat, rain, drought, frost, storms, and harvest timing all leave their fingerprints.

    Yet a difficult vintage isn’t necessarily a meaningless one.

    It becomes part of the wine’s story.

    The same can be said of a life shared over decades.

    Forty-five years contains plenty of different “vintages.” There are seasons of celebration and seasons that demand resilience. There are years remembered for major milestones and others remembered simply because of the ordinary Thursday nights, long conversations, unexpected laughter, and quiet moments that filled them.

    A life together isn’t defined by a single year.

    It is the accumulation of every season.

    woman holding glass of wine
    Photo by Nadin Sh on Pexels.com

    The Art of Balance

    One of the most important concepts in wine is balance.

    A wine isn’t balanced because it lacks acidity, tannin, alcohol, fruit, or oak. Quite the opposite. Great wines often contain considerable amounts of each.

    Balance occurs when those elements work together rather than compete for attention.

    Age can help that integration occur.

    Tannins may soften. Acidity remains a structural backbone. Fruit characteristics evolve. Oak becomes less prominent. Aromas and flavors that once seemed separate can become part of a more harmonious whole.

    Long relationships have their own version of balance.

    Two people don’t become identical over time. They become increasingly familiar with the places where they are different—and increasingly skilled at understanding how those differences can complement rather than divide.

    The goal isn’t perfection.

    It is harmony.

    And like wine, harmony rarely happens all at once.

    close up shot of a holding hands
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    What Time Reveals

    There is a common misconception that aging is simply a process of waiting.

    It isn’t.

    A wine cannot become great merely because it spends forty years in a cellar. If the wine lacks the necessary structure and balance to age, time will not create those qualities. It will simply reveal what was already there.

    The same principle applies to relationships.

    Time doesn’t manufacture character.

    It reveals it.

    Forty-five years provides an unusually long opportunity to discover who someone really is—not only in moments of celebration, but in difficult seasons, unexpected changes, ordinary routines, and all the moments that never make it into photographs.

    The remarkable thing isn’t that two people have spent forty-five years together.

    It is everything they have learned about one another during those years.

    couple holding hands and drinking champagne
    Photo by cottonbro studio on Pexels.com

    The People Around the Table

    For all the science, history, geography, and craftsmanship that make wine fascinating, there is another truth at the heart of wine culture:

    Wine is meant to be shared.

    A remarkable bottle can be evaluated through aroma, acidity, tannin, body, finish, provenance, vintage, and age.

    But none of those measurements can explain why a particular bottle becomes unforgettable.

    That often has little to do with the wine itself.

    It has to do with who was there.

    The bottle opened to celebrate a wedding. The wine poured at a milestone birthday. The bottle discovered on a memorable trip. The vintage saved for an occasion that finally arrived.

    Years later, the tasting notes may be forgotten.

    The people rarely are.

    That is one of the reasons wine remains such a powerful part of human culture. It creates an excuse to slow down, gather together, and give an ordinary moment the attention it deserves.

    Forty-Five Years

    This September marks forty-five years of marriage for Tammy and me.

    Forty-five years is a difficult number to comprehend when viewed as a single measurement of time. It becomes easier when viewed as a collection of seasons.

    Forty-five years of meals and conversations.

    Celebrations and challenges.

    Adventures and ordinary days.

    Thousands of decisions made together, large and small.

    Like a wine, a life together develops through accumulation. No single moment explains the finished character. Each one contributes something.

    And perhaps that is what makes forty-five years so meaningful.

    Not the number itself.

    The story contained within it.

    The Sapphire Anniversary

    Traditional anniversary gifts offer another interesting connection to wine.

    The 45th anniversary is associated with sapphire—a gemstone valued for its beauty, durability, and enduring character.

    Those qualities make the symbolism particularly fitting.

    After four and a half decades, love isn’t necessarily louder than it was in the beginning.

    It is deeper.

    It has more history.

    More context.

    More understanding.

    More evidence of having endured every season together.

    couple cheers together
    Photo by cottonbro studio on Pexels.com

    The Finest Pairing

    Wine has taught us a great deal about patience.

    It has taught us about place, season, craftsmanship, balance, and the extraordinary ways that time can transform something without changing its essential character.

    But perhaps its most important lesson is simpler.

    The best wine is not necessarily the oldest, rarest, or most expensive.

    It is the wine that belongs in the moment.

    A bottle shared with the right people can become part of a memory that lasts far longer than the wine itself.

    That is why, after forty-five years, the most meaningful measure isn’t how many bottles Tammy and I have opened, how many places we have visited, or how many milestones we have crossed.

    It is the people who have shared those moments with us.

    Wine may be the subject of SOMM&SOMM, but gathering around the table is what gives the subject meaning.

    Because ultimately, wine is not simply about what is in the glass.

    It is about what happens around it.

    woman and man hands holding glasses of champagne
    Photo by Valeria Boltneva on Pexels.com

    A Toast to Time

    Forty-five years is a remarkable vintage.

    It contains seasons we would happily repeat and others we would never choose again. It contains growth, change, patience, resilience, laughter, discovery, and an enormous amount of gratitude.

    Most importantly, it contains a life shared.

    Perhaps that is the real wisdom of time.

    It doesn’t necessarily make everything better.

    It makes what matters easier to recognize.

    And after forty-five years, there is one thing I recognize with absolute clarity:

    The finest things in life are rarely the things we collect.

    They are the people with whom we share them.

    So, as we raise a glass to forty-five years, we celebrate not simply an anniversary, but every ordinary day that made the extraordinary possible.

    And if you’d like to hear the rest of the story, there’s a song for that.

    Sapphire.

    “Before the gray… before the miles… there was your smile.”

    Happy 45th Anniversary, Tammy.

    Thank you for being my greatest adventure—and always my home 🥂

    Cover Photo by Doğu Tuncer on Pexels.com

  • The 75-85-95 Rule

    The 75-85-95 Rule

    How Much Wine is Actually in Your Wine?

    There is a moment every wine lover eventually experiences.

    You pick up a bottle of California Cabernet Sauvignon. The label says Napa Valley. The wine looks serious. The price looks even more serious. You assume you know what is in the bottle.

    Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. From Napa Valley.

    And you would be right.

    Mostly.

    Welcome to the wonderfully precise—and occasionally maddening—world of wine labeling laws.

    toast of wine glasses
    Photo by Vanessa Sezini on Pexels.com

    The good news is that American wine-labeling regulations are not designed to deceive consumers. They are designed to establish a legal threshold for what a winery can call a wine. The slightly less comforting news is that those thresholds leave room for other grapes, other places, and other vintages to join the party.

    For wine drinkers who care about what is actually in the glass, three numbers are worth remembering:

    75%. 85%. 95%.

    They are not arbitrary numbers. They are legal thresholds under U.S. wine-labeling regulations, and understanding them makes reading a wine label considerably more interesting.

    green plants on the field
    Photo by Phasha 360 on Pexels.com

    The 75% Rule: “Cabernet Sauvignon” Doesn’t Necessarily Mean 100% Cabernet

    Wait…, What?

    Let’s start with the number that causes the most confusion.

    Under federal regulations, a California wine—or any American wine—may generally identify a single grape variety on the label if at least 75% of the wine is derived from that grape. The qualifying portion must also come from the stated appellation of origin.

    So a bottle labeled:

    Cabernet Sauvignon

    could legally contain:

    And the label can still legally call the wine Cabernet Sauvignon.

    Nothing nefarious happened. No sommelier needs to call the wine police.

    The remaining 25% simply does not have to be disclosed as part of the mandatory varietal designation.

    That distinction matters.

    The law establishes what a winery may call the wine, not necessarily everything that went into the tank.

    There are two exceptions to the normal 75% threshold: wines made from qualifying Vitis labrusca varieties, and wines made from varieties that TTB determines to be too strongly flavored for the 75% minimum, may use the varietal name at 51% or more. In those cases, the label must state ‘contains not less than 51% [variety].’

    For most of the familiar noble varieties, however, 75% is the number to remember.

    welcome billboard in napa valley in california in usa
    Photo by Mich Perez on Pexels.com

    The 85% Rule: Welcome to the AVA

    Now we get to the geography.

    If a wine carries an American Viticultural Area—an AVA—on the label, at least 85% of the wine must be derived from grapes grown within that AVA.

    That means a wine labeled:

    Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

    is subject to two separate thresholds:

    Cabernet Sauvignon: at least 75%
    Napa Valley grapes: at least 85%

    Those numbers address different questions.

    The first tells us how much of the wine must be Cabernet Sauvignon.

    The second tells us how much of the wine must come from Napa Valley.

    And that creates an interesting little mathematical wine puzzle.

    Imagine a Napa Valley Cabernet labeled under the federal minimums. The wine could contain 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, while 85% of the total wine comes from Napa Valley.

    The regulations do not require the entire 85% Napa component to be Cabernet Sauvignon.

    In other words, the label tells you something important—but not everything.

    This is one reason experienced wine professionals pay attention to the combination of varietal designation and appellation, rather than treating either one as a complete ingredient list.

    And there is another wrinkle: the 85% AVA requirement concerns where the grapes were grown, not that every grape in the bottle came from the named AVA. Up to 15% can come from outside the AVA while the wine retains the AVA designation, provided the other requirements are met.

    That sounds like a loophole.

    Legally, it isn’t.

    It is the rule.

    a vineyard in the valley
    Photo by Karol Czinege on Pexels.com

    And Then There Is 95%

    The 95% figure gets particularly interesting.

    If a wine uses the name of a specific vineyard, orchard, farm, or ranch having geographical or viticultural significance, federal regulations generally require at least 95% of the wine to have been produced from primary winemaking material grown on that named property.

    So our three numbers now look something like this:

    What the label tells youMinimum requirement
    Single grape variety75%
    Named AVA85%
    Named vineyard/property95%

    There is another important 95% rule that wine lovers should know: when a wine carries a vintage date and a viticultural-area appellation, at least 95% of the wine must come from grapes harvested in that labeled year. If the wine uses a non-viticultural-area appellation, the vintage threshold is generally 85%.

    So if you see:

    2023 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

    you are looking at three different legal concepts:

    • At least 75% Cabernet Sauvignon.
    • At least 85% from Napa Valley.
    • At least 95% from the 2023 harvest.

    The label is telling you quite a lot.

    But it still isn’t giving you the recipe.

    So Could a “Cabernet Sauvignon” Contain Merlot?

    Absolutely.

    And this is where the rules become useful rather than alarming.

    California Cabernet has a long history of blending with other Bordeaux varieties. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec can all contribute structure, aroma, color, texture or balance.

    A winery could produce a wine that is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot and label it simply Cabernet Sauvignon.

    That is perfectly legal.

    But if the winery chooses to put Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot on the label as the varietal designation, the rules change dramatically.

    When two or more grape varieties are named as the wine’s varietal designation, 100% of the grapes must be from the listed varieties, and the percentage of each must be stated on the label, subject to a ±2% tolerance.

    So:

    Cabernet Sauvignon

    could contain undisclosed other varieties.

    But:

    Cabernet Sauvignon 80%
    Merlot 20%

    accounts for the entire blend.

    That is a very useful distinction when reading a label.

    Is This Just an American Thing?

    No.

    Wine-producing countries around the world have developed their own systems for dealing with varietal and geographic labeling, and several use thresholds that look remarkably familiar.

    The details, however, can be quite different.

    European Union: Another 85% Threshold

    Under EU rules, when a single wine grape variety is named on a wine label, generally at least 85% of the product must be made from that variety. When two or more grape varieties are named, 100% of the wine must be made from those varieties, and they must appear in descending order of proportion.

    That means the European approach can actually provide a little more varietal specificity than the U.S. federal minimum.

    But there is an important caveat.

    European wines are also governed by protected designations of origin, protected geographical indications, national regulations and individual appellation rules. A Barolo, for example, is not simply subject to a generic European “85% rule.” The rules of its specific appellation matter.

    In Europe, geography can be every bit as important as grape variety.

    Sometimes more important.

    bottle and a glass of red wine
    Photo by Brett Jordan on Pexels.com

    Australia: Another Familiar Number

    Australia also uses an 85% threshold for single-variety labeling. Under Australian wine regulations, a wine made from two or more varieties can be described as a single variety when at least 850 mL/L—85%—comes from that variety. If multiple varieties are named, they must be listed in descending order, and the named varieties collectively must account for at least 85% of the wine. Each named variety must also be present in greater proportion than any variety that is not named.

    That last requirement is particularly interesting.

    Imagine:

    Cabernet Sauvignon 70%
    Merlot 20%
    Petit Verdot 10%

    Australia’s labeling rules allow the named varieties to account for the required 85%, but the naming order matters and an omitted variety cannot exceed a named variety.

    Again, the law is trying to strike a balance between practical winemaking and consumer information.

    New Zealand: 85%, With an Interesting Twist

    New Zealand also applies an 85% rule to variety, vintage and area-of-origin claims.

    But New Zealand’s guidance makes the consumer-protection intent especially clear: if a wine makes a claim about varieties, the named varieties must collectively represent at least 85%, must be listed in descending order, and a producer cannot name two varieties while leaving out another variety that represents a greater percentage than one of the named varieties.

    So a hypothetical wine containing:

    75% Cabernet Sauvignon
    15% Pinotage
    10% Merlot

    could not simply be presented as “Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot,” because Pinotage is present at a higher percentage than Merlot.

    That is a fascinating contrast with the U.S. system.

    Different countries are solving the same problem in different ways:

    How much information does a consumer reasonably expect from a varietal name?

    a person holding a glass of wine
    Photo by Nadin Sh on Pexels.com

    The Important Word Is “Minimum”

    This is where wine enthusiasts can get themselves into trouble.

    The legal threshold is a minimum, not an average and certainly not a target.

    A Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon might be:

    • 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
    • 95% Cabernet Sauvignon
    • 85% Cabernet Sauvignon
    • 75% Cabernet Sauvignon

    All could potentially carry the same basic varietal designation.

    And the wine could taste dramatically different.

    The law doesn’t tell us whether the winemaker chose to blend 5% Merlot because it improved the wine, because it corrected a difficult vintage, because it was traditional, or because the winemaker simply liked the result.

    Those are winemaking decisions.

    The label law merely establishes what can be printed on the bottle.

    That is why “legal” and “transparent” are not necessarily synonyms.

    A winery can comply completely with the law while still leaving the curious drinker wanting more information.

    person typing
    Photo by Donatello Trisolino on Pexels.com

    How Can You Find Out What Is Actually in the Bottle?

    This is where things get fun.

    You don’t need to become a wine detective with a trench coat and a magnifying glass.

    You just need to know where to look.

    1. Start With the Winery

    The winery’s website is usually your best first stop.

    Look for:

    • Technical sheets
    • Vintage notes
    • Wine specifications
    • Composition
    • Blend percentages
    • Vineyard sources
    • Appellation information
    • Winemaker notes

    Many producers voluntarily disclose much more than the law requires.

    And if you are particularly interested in a wine, send the winery an email.

    Ask a simple question:

    “Could you tell me the varietal composition of the current vintage?”

    You might be surprised how often someone will answer.

    2. Look Beyond the Front Label

    The back label can contain valuable clues.

    Some producers voluntarily list the blend. Others mention vineyard sources, individual blocks, cooperage, harvest dates or production details.

    And remember: if multiple varieties appear as the formal varietal designation, the percentages must be disclosed.

    But a marketing description of grapes on a back label can be treated differently from the formal varietal designation. TTB has specifically addressed circumstances in which wineries may voluntarily list varieties as additional information, provided the information is truthful and not misleading.

    So don’t assume every grape name printed somewhere on a bottle carries exactly the same legal meaning.

    3. Scan the QR Code

    Increasingly, wineries are putting detailed information behind QR codes.

    Sometimes that takes you to marketing material.

    Sometimes it takes you to a remarkably detailed technical sheet.

    When it does, look for the blend composition, not merely the tasting notes.

    “Expressive aromas of blackberry, violet and graphite” tells you what the wine tastes like.

    “Cabernet Sauvignon 82%, Merlot 10%, Petit Verdot 8%” tells you what it is.

    Those are two very different kinds of information.

    4. Ask Your Sommelier or Wine Merchant

    This is perhaps the easiest method.

    a man holding a wineglass
    Photo by Pavel Danilyuk on Pexels.com

    A good sommelier, wine educator or knowledgeable retailer will often have access to distributor sheets, winery technical information or importer documentation that never makes it onto the bottle.

    And if they don’t know?

    A good answer is:

    “I don’t know, but I’ll find out.”

    That’s better wine service than inventing an answer.

    5. Search the TTB Public COLA Registry

    Here is the slightly nerdier—and wonderfully useful—option.

    The U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau maintains a Public COLA Registry, where consumers can search approved wine labels. The database contains approved, expired, surrendered and revoked Certificates of Label Approval, and label images are generally available for approvals dating back to 1999. No registration is required.

    The registry can sometimes reveal label information that isn’t immediately obvious from the bottle sitting in front of you.

    There is an important limitation, however: the public COLA system does not provide the winery’s complete formula.TTB itself notes that formula information is not available publicly through the registry.

    So the COLA Registry can help answer:

    “What did the government approve this label to say?”

    It cannot necessarily answer:

    “Exactly how many gallons of Merlot went into this tank?”

    For that, you still need the winery.

    A Sommelier’s Trick: Read the Label as a Set of Questions

    Instead of looking at a wine label and asking, “What is this?”

    Try asking:

    What is the grape?

    If one grape is named, remember the 75% U.S. threshold.

    Where is it from?

    If an AVA is named, remember 85%.

    Is a specific vineyard named?

    Think 95%.

    What vintage is it?

    With an AVA on a U.S. wine, think 95% from that harvest year.

    Are multiple varieties listed?

    In the United States, if they are being used as the formal varietal designation, they must account for 100% of the blend and the percentages must be shown.

    Then ask the most important question:

    What isn’t the label telling me?

    That is where wine gets interesting.

    colorful wine bottles displayed on wooden rack
    Photo by Daniel Maurício Bertoli on Pexels.com

    The Label Is a Map, Not a Recipe

    Wine labels were never designed to be complete ingredient panels.

    They are a combination of legal requirements, geographic identity, marketing, tradition and storytelling.

    The law gives us useful guardrails. It tells us that a Napa Valley wine cannot contain 50% grapes from somewhere else and still casually call itself Napa Valley. It tells us that a bottle labeled Cabernet Sauvignon must contain a substantial majority of Cabernet Sauvignon. It tells us that a named vineyard has an even higher threshold.

    But those numbers also remind us that a bottle labeled Cabernet Sauvignon does not necessarily mean 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

    And that is not necessarily a bad thing.

    Blending is one of the great tools of the winemaker.

    A few percent of Petit Verdot can deepen a Cabernet’s color and structure. Merlot can soften the edges. Cabernet Franc can add aromatic lift. A touch of another grape can turn a good wine into a great one.

    The real issue isn’t that blending exists.

    It’s whether we understand what the label actually promises.

    So the next time you pick up a California Cabernet, don’t squint suspiciously at the bottle as though it has something to hide.

    Give it a little credit.

    The label is telling you the truth.

    It just may not be telling you the whole story.

    And in wine, as in life, that is often where the fun begins 🍷

    The Fine Print: Our Sources

    Wine-labeling laws are anything but casual, so we went straight to the source. The varietal, appellation, vintage, and 51% labeling thresholds discussed in this article are based on regulations and guidance published by the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB).

    Primary Sources

    SOMM&SOMM Note: Wine laws evolve, and individual appellations may impose requirements more restrictive than federal minimums. The regulations cited above reflect the federal framework applicable to American wine labeling. When in doubt about what is actually in the bottle, ask the producer. The label may tell you what the law requires. The winemaker can tell you the rest of the story.

    Cover Photo by Elijah Cobb on Pexels.com

  • Smoke, Fire & Wine

    Smoke, Fire & Wine

    Why the Grill Changes Everything About Wine Pairing.

    The moment food meets fire, it begins to change. Sugars caramelize. Proteins brown. Smoke settles into every surface. Flavors become deeper, richer, and more complex. A wine that seemed perfectly suited to the raw ingredients may suddenly feel out of place, while another comes alive in ways that are impossible to predict without understanding what the fire has created.

    fire burning in stove
    Photo by Darya Grey_Owl on Pexels.com

    Fire Is an Ingredient

    When discussing food and wine pairing, we often focus on the ingredients themselves.

    Beef pairs with Cabernet Sauvignon.

    Fish pairs with Chardonnay.

    Chicken pairs with Pinot Noir.

    These guidelines provide a useful starting point, but they overlook one of the most influential ingredients in the entire meal.

    Fire.

    Whether food is cooked over hardwood, charcoal, propane, or an open flame, heat fundamentally changes its chemistry. The transformation extends well beyond texture. Smoke introduces new aromas. Caramelization develops sweetness. Browning creates layers of savory complexity that never existed in the raw ingredients.

    The grill does not simply cook food.

    It creates new flavors.

    Those flavors deserve wines capable of meeting them.

    Smoke Speaks Loudly

    Smoke is among the most expressive flavors in cooking.

    It can be delicate, as with cedar-planked salmon, or deeply assertive, as in slow-smoked brisket. It may suggest toasted herbs, charred citrus, roasted nuts, or warm spices depending on the fuel, cooking method, and ingredients.

    Because smoke lingers on the palate, it has a profound influence on wine.

    Highly oaked wines often compete with smoky foods rather than complement them, creating an impression of excessive wood or bitterness. Wines with vibrant fruit, balanced acidity, and restrained oak generally allow the smoky character of the food to remain the focal point while providing freshness between each bite.

    The objective is not to match smoke with more smoke.

    It is to bring balance to the experience.

    juicy steaks sizzling on a smoky grill
    Photo by Mohamed Olwy on Pexels.com

    Char Is Not Burnt

    One of the greatest misunderstandings in outdoor cooking is confusing char with burning.

    A beautifully grilled steak develops a dark crust through the Maillard reaction, a series of chemical changes that occur when amino acids and natural sugars are exposed to high heat. This reaction creates hundreds of new flavor compounds responsible for aromas that resemble toasted bread, roasted coffee, caramel, nuts, and browned butter.

    Burning, by contrast, produces bitterness that can overwhelm both food and wine.

    Understanding this distinction explains why a properly grilled ribeye welcomes a structured Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, while an overcooked steak can make even the finest bottle seem harsh.

    Great grilling is not about cooking longer.

    It is about cooking with intention.

    piece of meat on a fork
    Photo by Augustinus Martinus Noppé on Pexels.com

    Acidity Becomes More Important Outdoors

    Summer entertaining often includes rich marinades, barbecue sauces, herb butters, and foods that spend hours over glowing coals.

    These preparations increase richness while smoke adds another layer of intensity.

    Acidity becomes essential.

    A vibrant wine refreshes the palate after each bite, allowing the next mouthful to remain as satisfying as the first. Without sufficient acidity, both food and wine can begin to feel heavy as the meal progresses.

    This explains why wines such as Barbera, Rioja Crianza, dry Riesling, Albariño, and many rosés perform so well alongside grilled cuisine. Their freshness provides contrast without sacrificing flavor.

    Balance, rather than power, becomes the defining characteristic.

    grilled shrimps
    Photo by Julia Filirovska on Pexels.com

    Pairing Beyond Red Meat

    The grill has expanded far beyond burgers and steaks.

    Seafood, vegetables, fruit, and even cheese develop remarkable character over live fire, often creating opportunities for pairings that surprise experienced wine drinkers.

    Grilled shrimp brushed with olive oil and lemon finds a natural companion in Albariño, whose citrus and mineral qualities mirror the freshness of the dish while standing comfortably beside the subtle smokiness of the grill.

    Cedar-planked salmon develops richness that often elevates Pinot Noir above many white wines. The wine’s bright acidity and restrained tannins complement the fish without overwhelming its delicate texture.

    grilled vegetables plate bell pepper zucchini onion
    Photo by Valeria Boltneva on Pexels.com

    Grilled vegetables deserve equal attention. Bell peppers, zucchini, asparagus, eggplant, and mushrooms all become sweeter through caramelization, inviting wines with moderate body and lively fruit. A chilled Beaujolais, dry rosé, or Vermentino often proves every bit as successful as more traditional choices.

    The grill rewards curiosity.

    Some of its finest pairings are found beyond the steakhouse.

    When Sauce Changes the Wine

    Many people assume the protein determines the pairing.

    More often than not, the sauce has the final word.

    A grilled pork chop served with an herb butter calls for a different wine than the same chop coated in a sweet barbecue glaze. Smoky tomato sauces favor wines with bright acidity, while mustard-based sauces often benefit from wines that offer generous fruit without excessive tannin. Spicy preparations invite wines with moderate alcohol and expressive aromatics rather than overwhelming structure.

    The grill may provide the foundation.

    The sauce often completes the conversation.

    Don’t Forget the Chill

    Outdoor temperatures influence wine just as surely as they influence food.

    A full-bodied red served at typical indoor room temperature may become noticeably warmer after only a few minutes on a sunny patio. As temperature rises, alcohol becomes more pronounced and freshness begins to fade.

    The solution is surprisingly simple.

    Many red wines improve when served slightly cooler than tradition suggests, especially during the summer months. Fifteen to twenty minutes in the refrigerator before serving allows Pinot Noir, Grenache, Gamay, and even lighter expressions of Syrah to retain their balance throughout the meal.

    Likewise, white wines need not emerge from an ice bath at near-freezing temperatures. Excessive chilling suppresses aroma, leaving beautifully expressive wines tasting muted and one-dimensional.

    Wine should refresh.

    It should also speak.

    friends standing around a barbecue grill
    Photo by Kampus Production on Pexels.com

    Fire Brings People Together

    Perhaps the greatest similarity between grilling and wine has little to do with flavor.

    Both encourage people to gather.

    Few culinary traditions are as communal as cooking over live fire. Someone tends the grill while others prepare the table. Conversations drift between recipes, stories, and memories. Glasses are topped off without ceremony, and the evening gradually extends beyond the meal itself.

    The fire becomes more than a source of heat.

    It becomes the center of the gathering.

    Wine has always played a similar role. At its best, it draws people closer, slows the pace of the evening, and reminds us that hospitality has never been measured by complexity or expense.

    It is measured by generosity.

    More Than a Meal

    There is a reason food cooked over fire has captivated humanity for thousands of years.

    Fire transforms.

    It changes ingredients into something richer than they were before. Smoke adds depth. Heat develops sweetness. Time rewards patience.

    Wine undergoes its own transformation, beginning in the vineyard and continuing through fermentation, aging, and finally the moment it is shared.

    Perhaps that is why the partnership feels so natural.

    One is shaped by the land.

    The other by the flame.

    Together, they remind us that some of life’s greatest pleasures are created not by rushing the process, but by allowing time, craftsmanship, and a little smoke to work their quiet magic.

    glass of wine and cut meat steak served with potatoes and vegetable salad
    Photo by ArtHouse Studio on Pexels.com

    From the SOMM&SOMM Table

    The next time you light the grill, think beyond the main ingredient. Consider what the fire is adding to the meal and choose a wine that complements those new flavors rather than competing with them. The finest pairing is rarely about matching beef with Cabernet or fish with Chardonnay.

    It is about understanding what the flame has created 🍷

    Cover photo by Antonius Ferret on Pexels.com

  • The Fourth Wine of Summer

    The Fourth Wine of Summer

    The Wine We Know and the Wine We Understand.

    Some wines enter our lives through study. Others arrive through experience. Occasionally, if we are lucky, they arrive twice.

    For years, Tavel lived comfortably in the first category for me.

    As a sommelier student and throughout various wine courses and certifications, I learned the facts well enough. I knew that Tavel was one of France’s historic rosé appellations tucked into the Southern Rhône. I knew that its vineyards sat just west of Avignon and that its proximity to the papal court had earned it the nickname The Wine of Popes. Most intriguingly, I knew that generations of growers referred to it as The Fourth Wine.

    White wine.

    Red wine.

    Rosé.

    And then Tavel.

    Photo by Véronique PAGNIER, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    It was a wonderful phrase, and one that stayed with me long after the examinations were complete. I understood what the textbooks were telling me. I understood why the region mattered historically. I understood the rules, the grapes, and the geography.

    What I had not yet done was understand the wine itself.

    When the Textbooks Finally Made Sense

    That changed recently during a tasting with a wine representative.

    There was no grand lesson attached to the bottle. No discussion of papal history. No stories of medieval vineyards basking beneath the Provençal sun. For him, it was simply another wine in the portfolio and another bottle to pour as we worked our way through the lineup.

    Then came the first sip.

    Suddenly, years of study became experience.

    The textbooks made sense.

    Photo by jean-louis Zimmermann, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The color was the first clue. This was no pale, fleeting rosé designed to disappear into a sunny afternoon beside the pool. The wine arrived in shades of ruby grapefruit and watermelon with a depth that immediately demanded attention.

    Then came the texture.

    This was the part the study guides had struggled to convey.

    There was weight here. Structure. Presence. The wine carried itself with confidence while retaining the freshness and energy that make rosé such a natural companion for warm weather. It possessed some of the refreshment of white wine and some of the culinary versatility of red wine while refusing to fully become either one.

    For the first time, I understood why the growers of Tavel had spent centuries insisting that their wines belonged in a category all their own.

    The Fourth Wine was not a romantic expression.

    It was an honest description.

    The Fourth Wine

    The history of Tavel stretches back much further than most drinkers realize.

    The Romans cultivated vineyards here. Kings favored its wines. Writers praised them. Yet somehow Tavel has remained quietly in the background while other regions captured the spotlight and the headlines.

    Perhaps that is part of its charm.

    The wines of Tavel have never seemed particularly interested in trends.

    Unlike many rosé-producing regions, Tavel dedicates itself entirely to rosé. There are no red wines carrying the appellation’s name and no whites sharing the stage. The village has spent generations refining a single expression and doing so with remarkable confidence.

    Photo by levork (Julian Fong), CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Grenache typically forms the backbone of the blend, supported by Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and several other Rhône varieties. Depending on the producer, aromas may move through wild strawberry, raspberry, blood orange, dried herbs, lavender, and occasionally a touch of white pepper or stone.

    The Mediterranean seems to find its way into the glass.

    What separates Tavel, however, is not simply flavor.

    It is presence.

    This is rosé with shoulders.

    palais des papes at sunset in avignon france
    Photo by Bingqian Li on Pexels.com

    The Wine of Popes

    History only makes the story better.

    A short distance away sits Avignon, where the papacy established residence during much of the fourteenth century. For nearly seventy years, the center of the Catholic world shifted from Rome to southern France, and the vineyards surrounding the city found themselves supplying wine to one of the most influential courts in Europe.

    The wines of Tavel quickly found favor at the papal table.

    One can understand why.

    These were not delicate rosés intended solely for aperitif service. They possessed the structure to accompany roasted meats, game, herbs, and the rich cuisine of medieval France. They were substantial wines built for the table and for conversation.

    The title Wine of Popes followed naturally.

    One suspects there were worse endorsements available in fourteenth-century Europe.

    delicious charcuterie board with cheese and fruits
    Photo by Patti M on Pexels.com

    Built for the Summer Table

    What surprised me most, however, was not the history or even the profile of the wine.

    It was the versatility.

    delicious grilled chicken with green peppers
    Photo by kandhi bharata on Pexels.com

    Tavel may be one of the most naturally food-friendly wines I have encountered in recent years. The structure that once appealed to the papal courts of Avignon remains every bit as relevant today. Seafood, roasted poultry, grilled pork, Mediterranean vegetables, charcuterie, herb-driven cuisine, and even lighter preparations of lamb all seem perfectly comfortable in its company.

    That breadth is unusual.

    Many summer wines excel in very specific situations. Tavel feels less restrictive. It occupies a fascinating middle ground, carrying enough freshness for warm weather while offering enough substance to engage with a remarkably wide range of foods.

    It refreshes without disappearing beneath food.

    It offers character without heaviness.

    It feels substantial without ever becoming serious business.

    A Place in the Rotation

    Perhaps that explains why I have found myself recommending it repeatedly this summer.

    More accurately, it explains why I recently decided that it deserves a place in the regular summer rotation.

    As sommeliers and wine students, we encounter remarkable wines every year. Some impress us. Some educate us. Some earn our admiration from a distance.

    Only a handful quietly begin making plans of their own.

    Tavel has become one of those wines for me.

    Not because it is elusive.

    Not because it carries centuries of history.

    Not because popes once enjoyed it.

    Those details certainly add to its charm.

    It earned its place because it performs the difficult balancing act that so many summer wines attempt and so few achieve. It brings refreshment to the season while retaining the structure and personality that make wine interesting in the first place.

    Most importantly, it leaves me wanting to share the discovery.

    Curiously, I have not yet done so.

    The bottles I have opened so far have been educational encounters rather than communal ones. Friends and family have yet to be introduced to this small corner of the Southern Rhône and its centuries-old argument for becoming wine’s fourth category.

    That moment will come.

    Some wines invite admiration.

    Others invite conversation.

    Tavel feels very much like the latter.

    For now, it remains a recent curiosity and an unexpected favorite, quietly earning its place among the bottles most likely to find their way into the refrigerator as Florida settles into the long warmth of late summer.

    Not a new discovery.

    A new understanding.

    Sometimes that is even better 🍷

    Cover photo by Véronique PAGNIER, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

  • Chasing Fireflies and Firewater

    Chasing Fireflies and Firewater

    Summer Reflections on Spirits, Simplicity, and the Magic Beyond the Porch Light.

    There is something about a Southern summer evening that refuses to be rushed.

    Perhaps it is the heat finally surrendering after a long day. Perhaps it is the chorus of cicadas rising from the trees or the familiar creak of a porch swing settling into rhythm. Whatever the reason, summer evenings seem to operate on their own timetable, encouraging us to slow down and appreciate moments that might otherwise pass unnoticed.

    As a child, I measured those evenings not by the clock but by the appearance of fireflies (a.k.a. lightnin’ bugs).

    silhouette of children playing together during sunset
    Photo by Hurrah suhail on Pexels.com

    Their tiny flashes signaled the beginning of a different part of the day. Dinner had ended. The chores were finished. The sun had slipped below the horizon, leaving behind streaks of orange and purple. The world seemed to exhale, and for a brief window before darkness fully arrived, the ordinary became something almost magical.

    Years later, I have come to realize that many of my favorite beverages occupy a similar space.

    Wine, whiskey, and cocktails often receive attention for their complexity. Enthusiasts debate tasting notes, production methods, and aging regimens with near-religious fervor. There is certainly value in understanding these details. Knowledge deepens appreciation, and every bottle has a story worth telling.

    Yet the bottles we remember most are rarely those that impressed us with technical perfection.

    Instead, they become intertwined with a particular evening, a particular meal, or a particular conversation.

    men doing high five while drinking
    Photo by Gustavo Fring on Pexels.com

    Ask someone about the best bourbon they ever tasted, and chances are they will describe the people they were with before they describe the whiskey itself.

    The same is true for wine. A modest bottle shared among friends often leaves a deeper impression than a prestigious vintage consumed in isolation. The experience becomes inseparable from the beverage, and the memory acquires a richness that no tasting note can fully capture.

    Summer may be the season that illustrates this truth most clearly.

    There is an understandable tendency to focus on what belongs in the glass. Retail displays fill with rosé, crisp white wines, canned cocktails, and recipes for refreshing summer drinks. Entire marketing campaigns are built around seasonal consumption.

    What receives less attention is the setting.

    glasses of wine on a wooden railing
    Photo by cottonbro studio on Pexels.com

    A chilled Sauvignon Blanc enjoyed indoors under fluorescent lighting is not quite the same wine when served on a shaded patio overlooking a garden. A whiskey highball becomes something different when accompanied by the scent of charcoal drifting from a nearby grill. Even a simple gin and tonic seems elevated when enjoyed beneath a sky slowly filling with stars.

    The beverage matters, of course. But context matters more than we often admit.

    Perhaps that explains the enduring appeal of some of the simplest drinks ever created.

    The whiskey highball remains one of the world’s great summer cocktails not because it is complicated but because it isn’t. Whiskey, ice, and sparkling water combine to create something refreshing without demanding attention. It complements the moment rather than competing with it.

    corked wine decanter ice bucket and cocktail glasses with fruits on a table
    Photo by 𝙊𝙎𝙑𝘼𝙇𝘿𝙊 𝙍𝙊𝙈𝙄𝙏𝙊 on Pexels.com

    The same can be said for sangria, porch punches, and countless family recipes that have survived for generations. Their purpose has never been to showcase the skill of the bartender. Their purpose is to bring people together.

    Hospitality has always been more important than mixology.

    The older I get, the more I appreciate that distinction.

    We live in a time when experiences are frequently documented before they are fully enjoyed. Every exceptional meal is photographed. Every rare bottle is shared online. Every gathering seems to arrive with an unspoken expectation that it should be memorable.

    Ironically, the moments we cherish most are often the ones that occurred without any such intention.

    A spontaneous conversation that lasted longer than expected.

    A bottle opened for no particular reason.

    An evening that offered nothing extraordinary beyond good company and the luxury of being fully present.

    Those are the moments that linger.

    Those are the moments that return years later when a familiar aroma rises from a glass.

    Those are the moments that remind us why we gather around tables in the first place.

    enchanting fireflies in a serene forest setting
    Photo by marclyc li on Pexels.com

    As July settles into its hottest days and summer begins its gradual march toward autumn, I find myself thinking once again about those fireflies. Their season is remarkably brief. Blink, and you can miss it. Yet perhaps that brevity is precisely what makes their appearance so special.

    The finest summer evenings share that quality. They cannot be preserved, replicated, or stored away for later enjoyment. They exist only in the moment, asking nothing more of us than our attention.

    So open a bottle you enjoy. Invite a friend. Sit outside if the weather permits. Listen to the sounds of the season and watch the last traces of daylight fade from the sky.

    If a few fireflies happen to appear beyond the porch light, consider it a reminder that some of life’s greatest pleasures have always been wonderfully uncomplicated.

    The drink may help mark the occasion.

    The evening itself is what you’ll remember.

    Cheers 🥃

    A Personal Note

    While writing this article, I found myself thinking about summer evenings from my childhood in Tennessee. Long before I knew anything about wine, bourbon, or hospitality, I was fortunate enough to witness one of nature’s most remarkable spectacles—the synchronous fireflies of the Smoky Mountains.

    As darkness settled over the mountains, thousands of tiny lights would begin flashing in unison, illuminating entire hillsides before disappearing back into the night. At the time, I assumed every child experienced such magic. Only later did I learn that people travel from around the world to witness what I had taken for granted.

    Perhaps that is why summer evenings still hold a special place in my heart. Whether it’s a glass of bourbon shared on a porch, a bottle of wine enjoyed among friends, or simply watching the first fireflies emerge at dusk, I’m reminded that life’s most memorable moments are rarely the most elaborate. More often, they’re the ones that ask us to slow down, pay attention, and appreciate the wonder that has been there all along.

    — Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

  • Summer in a Glass

    Summer in a Glass

    Pairing Wine with the Moments That Matter.

    Summer officially arrives today.

    For some, that means vacations.

    For others, it means beach trips, family cookouts, pool parties, fishing excursions, and evenings spent chasing the last rays of sunlight across the backyard.

    For Floridians, it means stepping outside and immediately wondering if the sun has somehow moved closer to Earth 😉

    Whatever summer means to you, it arrives with a change in rhythm.

    Life slows down.

    Schedules become a little less rigid.

    Weekends become a little more sacred.

    And perhaps most importantly, the opportunities to gather with friends and family become more frequent.

    people toasting wine glasses at the beach
    Photo by Kampus Production on Pexels.com

    As wine professionals, we spend a great deal of time discussing food pairings. We talk about acidity, tannins, body, sweetness, texture, and balance. We debate whether a particular wine is better suited to grilled fish or roasted chicken, creamy sauces or citrus-driven dishes.

    Those conversations matter.

    But sometimes I think we overlook something equally important.

    Wine should pair with moments.

    The best wine for a summer afternoon isn’t necessarily determined by what’s on the plate. It may be determined by where you are sitting, what you’re doing, who you’re sharing it with, and how you hope to feel.

    A wine enjoyed while floating lazily in a swimming pool serves a different purpose than one shared around a charcoal grill. The bottle opened during a sunset gathering on the porch should create a different experience than one accompanying a seafood feast overlooking the water.

    The wine becomes part of the memory.

    And summer is full of memories waiting to happen.

    relaxing summer day on striped pool float
    Photo by Tomi Saputra on Pexels.com

    The Pool Float: Mastering the Art of Doing Nothing

    Few summer activities are as universally appreciated as floating in a pool.

    There is something wonderfully unproductive about it.

    No deadlines.

    No obligations.

    No projects.

    Just sunshine, cool water, and the occasional reminder that someone forgot to reapply sunscreen.

    Poolside wines should share that same carefree attitude.

    Heavy reds and high-alcohol wines often feel exhausting in the heat. Summer relaxation calls for wines that refresh rather than challenge.

    This is where Portugal’s Vinho Verde shines.

    Produced in the lush, green vineyards of northwestern Portugal, Vinho Verde is often light-bodied, citrus-driven, and occasionally carries a slight natural spritz. Flavors of lime, green apple, lemon zest, and fresh herbs create a profile that feels almost purpose-built for hot afternoons.

    Its lower alcohol content is one of its greatest strengths. While many wines demand your full attention, Vinho Verde simply asks you to enjoy yourself.

    A chilled bottle beside the pool has a remarkable ability to make an ordinary afternoon feel like a vacation.

    beach umbrella on the shore
    Photo by Fran Bertucci on Pexels.com

    The Beach Chair: Salt Air and Sunshine

    The beach creates one of the most fascinating wine environments imaginable.

    Salt hangs in the air.

    The breeze carries hints of the ocean.

    The sunlight reflects endlessly off the water.

    Everything feels brighter.

    Even flavor perception changes.

    Many sommeliers and chefs have long observed that coastal environments seem to heighten our appreciation for acidity and minerality. Whether scientific fact or sensory illusion, there is little debate that certain wines simply feel more at home near the ocean.

    Few examples illustrate this better than Albariño.

    Grown primarily in Spain’s Galicia region along the Atlantic coast, Albariño offers aromas of citrus blossom, white peach, lime, and fresh melon. Beneath the fruit lies a subtle saline quality that often reminds drinkers of sea spray and ocean breezes.

    Pair it with shrimp, oysters, fish tacos, or simply a comfortable chair facing the water.

    Some wines taste like places.

    Albariño tastes like summer at the beach.

    a group of friends clinking glasses
    Photo by Kampus Production on Pexels.com

    The Backyard Grill: Where Everybody Becomes an Expert

    Every cookout has one.

    The self-appointed grill master.

    You know the person.

    The individual who transforms lighting charcoal into a ceremonial event and speaks confidently about airflow, smoke management, heat zones, and grilling philosophy as if preparing for a doctoral dissertation.

    Summer would not be the same without them.

    Fortunately, barbecue gives us one of wine’s greatest pairing opportunities.

    Smoke changes everything.

    The caramelization created by grilling introduces sweetness, complexity, spice, and depth. Suddenly, wines that may feel overpowering indoors become perfectly balanced outdoors.

    This is where Zinfandel earns its reputation as one of America’s great barbecue wines.

    Rich flavors of blackberry, raspberry preserves, baking spice, black pepper, and dark fruit stand comfortably alongside ribs, brisket, burgers, and grilled sausages. The wine possesses enough personality to stand up to bold flavors without overwhelming the food.

    Like the grill master himself, Zinfandel is not shy.

    Unlike the grill master, however, it rarely tells the same story twice.

    The Family Cookout: Controlled Chaos and Lasting Memories

    Family gatherings follow remarkably predictable patterns.

    Someone arrives early.

    Someone arrives late.

    A child inevitably runs through the house covered in something sticky.

    An uncle tells the same story he told last year.

    Everyone listens anyway.

    These gatherings often feature an extraordinary variety of foods. Burgers share table space with pasta salads, baked beans, fresh fruit, potato chips, grilled vegetables, and family recipes that have somehow survived four generations without written instructions.

    The challenge is finding a wine capable of navigating all of it.

    Enter rosé.

    For years, rosé suffered from misconceptions that it was either too sweet, too simple, or somehow less serious than other wines. Today’s rosés have firmly disproven those myths.

    Whether crafted from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, or countless other varieties, dry rosé delivers one of the most versatile drinking experiences in the wine world.

    It refreshes like a white wine while carrying enough structure to complement grilled foods.

    Most importantly, it encourages conversation.

    And conversation may be the most important pairing at any family gathering.

    two glasses of white wine
    Photo by Tugay Kocatürk on Pexels.com

    Sunset on the Porch: Summer’s Daily Finale

    There is a magical moment that occurs on summer evenings.

    The heat begins to fade.

    The sky softens.

    Conversations slow.

    Nobody feels particularly rushed.

    The day gradually releases its grip.

    This is not a moment for powerful wines.

    It is a moment for elegant wines.

    A well-made Chardonnay from Sonoma Coast, Santa Barbara, Oregon, or Chablis possesses a remarkable ability to mirror the transition from day to evening. Balanced acidity, restrained fruit, subtle texture, and measured complexity invite reflection rather than analysis.

    The same can be said for Chenin Blanc, white Burgundy, and carefully crafted Viognier.

    These wines do not demand attention.

    They reward it.

    seafood meal on plate with white wine on side
    Photo by Sarda Bamberg on Pexels.com

    The Seafood Feast: Summer’s Greatest Culinary Celebration

    Every season has its signature meals.

    Summer belongs to seafood.

    Whether it is a backyard shrimp boil, fresh oysters, grilled fish, lobster tails, or a mountain of crab legs spread across a newspaper-covered table, seafood seems to bring people together in a way few foods can.

    One of my favorite summer companions for these occasions remains Torrontés.

    Argentina may be known worldwide for Malbec, but Torrontés deserves equal recognition among white wine lovers. Intensely aromatic notes of jasmine, orange blossom, honeysuckle, citrus, and tropical fruit leap from the glass.

    The surprise comes on the palate.

    Despite its floral perfume, quality Torrontés is often crisp, dry, and refreshing.

    The contrast creates a wine that feels sophisticated without becoming complicated.

    Like summer itself, it manages to be both vibrant and effortless.

    close up shot of a person pouring wine on a glass
    Photo by KoolShooters on Pexels.com

    The Evening Wind-Down: Celebrating the Ordinary

    Not every bottle needs an occasion.

    In fact, some of the best bottles are opened for no reason at all.

    A quiet evening.

    A comfortable chair.

    A few friends.

    A gentle breeze.

    Perhaps this is why sparkling wine remains one of the most misunderstood categories in the world.

    Many people save bubbles for celebrations.

    The French have long understood a better approach.

    Open them more often.

    Champagne, Crémant, Cava, Prosecco, and traditional-method sparkling wines have an extraordinary ability to elevate ordinary moments. The bubbles create energy. The acidity refreshes. The experience feels special, even when nothing particularly special is happening.

    Especially when nothing particularly special is happening.

    people toasting wine
    Photo by Kampus Production on Pexels.com

    Pairing Wine with Life

    As sommeliers, we often teach people how to pair wine with food.

    That skill remains important.

    But perhaps the greater lesson is learning how to pair wine with life itself.

    The right bottle can enhance a sunset.

    It can elevate a conversation.

    It can transform a cookout into a memory and a family gathering into a tradition.

    Summer offers countless opportunities to slow down and appreciate those moments.

    Choose wines that belong in them.

    Because the best summer wine is not necessarily the most expensive bottle, the rarest vintage, or the highest score.

    It is the one that feels perfectly at home in the moment you’re living.

    And those moments, like summer itself, never last quite long enough 🍷

    Summer in a Glass

    Tammy Dean
    Poet and Sommelier, SOMM&SOMM

    Golden bubbles rising to the top,
    Add some juice and watch them pop.
    It is summertime at last,
    Liquid sunshine in my glass.

    Family and friends gathering by the pool,
    Time to cool off with a botanical mule.
    Rub the rosemary, slap the mint;
    Drink it slow, take the hint.

    Gin and tonic is so nice,
    In a tall glass with lots of ice.
    Squeeze some lime, add a straw—
    So simple to make, never a flaw.

    Afternoon clouds are a-coming, my Lordy,
    Looking a little dark and stormy.
    Grab the rum and the ginger beer;
    The thunder is getting closer, my dear.

    The rain is over, the sun is bright,
    The wine is cold, crisp, and light.
    A hint of citrus fills the air;
    Sit back, relax without a care.

    Another summer day is done,
    But, oh, we had so much fun.
    Tomorrow we have to mow the grass,
    But then back to summer in a glass.

    Cover Photo by ClickerHappy on Pexels.com

  • Varietal Spotlight: Torrontés

    Varietal Spotlight: Torrontés

    Argentina’s Perfumed Secret and the White Wine of Early Summer.

    When most wine lovers think of Argentina, the mind immediately drifts toward towering Andes vineyards, sizzling parrilladas, and plush, dark-fruited Malbec. For decades, Malbec has served as Argentina’s global ambassador — bold, seductive, and unmistakably linked to the country’s modern wine identity. Yet quietly flourishing in the shadow of Malbec is a white grape that may capture Argentina’s soul even more intimately: Torrontés.

    If Malbec is Argentina’s velvet smoking jacket, Torrontés is its linen summer suit.

    Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

    Bright, aromatic, floral, and refreshingly expressive, Torrontés delivers one of the wine world’s most captivating sensory contradictions. It smells lavishly sweet — bursting with jasmine, orange blossom, lychee, honeysuckle, and ripe stone fruit — yet on the palate it often finishes crisp, dry, and electric. That tension between exuberant aromatics and refreshing structure is precisely what makes Torrontés such an irresistible warm-weather wine.

    For sommeliers, Torrontés occupies a fascinating niche. It offers many of the floral signatures associated with Gewürztraminer or Muscat, yet often carries the acidity and freshness of Albariño or Sauvignon Blanc. It is simultaneously exotic and accessible, luxurious yet refreshing. It is a wine capable of elevating everything from ceviche to Thai curry while remaining one of the most underappreciated values in the wine world.

    And perhaps most importantly, it tells the story of Argentina itself.

    Photo by Jnurin Justin Nurin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    A Grape Born in the New World

    Unlike Malbec — which famously journeyed from southwest France to Argentina in the 19th century — Torrontés is not simply a transplanted European variety. Modern DNA analysis has revealed something far more intriguing.

    Torrontés is essentially Argentina’s own grape.

    Ampelographers now believe Torrontés resulted from a natural crossing between the ancient Spanish grape Mission (known locally as Criolla Chica) and Muscat of Alexandria. This crossing likely occurred after Spanish colonists brought vines to South America during the 16th century.

    That genealogy explains Torrontés beautifully:

    • From Muscat of Alexandria comes the intensely aromatic floral perfume.
    • From Criolla Chica comes adaptability, acidity retention, and resilience in high-altitude climates.

    The result is a grape uniquely suited to Argentina’s dramatic terroirs.

    Even more fascinating, there are actually three recognized Torrontés varieties in Argentina:

    Torrontés Riojano

    The finest and most celebrated expression. Despite the name, it is not connected to Spain’s Rioja region. This is the Torrontés most sommeliers reference when discussing premium Argentine white wines.

    Expect:

    • Jasmine and rose petals
    • White peach
    • Meyer lemon
    • Lychee
    • Orange blossom
    • Crisp acidity
    • Slight phenolic bitterness on the finish

    Torrontés Sanjuanino

    Typically softer and broader with less aromatic intensity. Often grown in San Juan where warmer conditions produce rounder wines.

    Expect:

    • Riper tropical fruit
    • Lower acidity
    • Softer floral character
    • More approachable commercial styles

    Torrontés Mendocino

    The rarest and least commercially important. Usually less aromatic and more neutral, though pockets of old vines still exist.

    These distinctions matter because Torrontés is highly sensitive to altitude, sunlight, and harvest timing. Tiny changes in site selection can radically alter the wine’s aromatic profile and balance.

    Photo by aaeptein, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Key to Great Torrontés

    To understand elite Torrontés, one must understand altitude.

    Many of Argentina’s greatest Torrontés vineyards sit between 5,000 and 8,000 feet above sea level, particularly in Salta’s Calchaquí Valleys. These are some of the highest vineyards on Earth.

    The conditions are extreme:

    • Intense UV radiation
    • Massive diurnal temperature swings
    • Dry desert air
    • Rocky, mineral-rich soils
    • Minimal rainfall

    Those dramatic shifts between scorching daytime temperatures and frigid nights allow grapes to achieve full aromatic ripeness while preserving acidity. The result is wines of remarkable aromatic intensity without becoming flabby or overly alcoholic.

    This is why Torrontés from Salta often possesses such startling purity and lift. The wines practically leap from the glass.

    For sommeliers, Salta Torrontés can become a blind tasting trap. The nose may suggest an off-dry Alsatian Gewürztraminer or even Muscat, yet the palate snaps dry with vibrant acidity and mineral tension.

    That disconnect is part of the magic.

    Related SOMM&SOMM Article: The Noble Grapes of Alsace

    Photo by Yozh, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Aromatic Illusion

    Torrontés teaches one of wine’s greatest sensory lessons: aroma does not equal sweetness.

    Because the grape is so explosively aromatic, inexperienced drinkers often assume the wine contains residual sugar. Yet many premium examples are fermented bone dry.

    The brain encounters aromas associated with sweetness:

    • Honeysuckle
    • Orange blossom
    • Peach nectar
    • Lychee
    • Rosewater

    Then suddenly the palate reveals:

    • Citrus zest
    • Salinity
    • Bitter grapefruit pith
    • Dry mineral structure

    This contrast creates incredible food versatility because the wine can complement spicy cuisine without the heaviness associated with sweeter wines.

    A well-made Torrontés should never feel cloying. The best examples dance.

    Regional Expressions of Torrontés

    Salta: The Grand Cru Expression

    Salta produces Argentina’s most profound Torrontés wines, particularly from Cafayate.

    These wines tend to be:

    • Intensely aromatic
    • High acid
    • Mineral-driven
    • Structured
    • Age-worthy

    Descriptors often include:

    • White flowers
    • Crushed rocks
    • Lemon oil
    • Green herbs
    • Peach skin
    • Lime blossom

    Some premium examples develop fascinating petrol and dried chamomile notes with age, reminiscent of mature Riesling.

    Pairing possibilities become almost endless:

    • Peruvian ceviche
    • Yuzu crudo
    • Thai basil chicken
    • Vietnamese lemongrass shrimp
    • Green curry
    • Moroccan preserved lemon dishes
    • Sushi with citrus kosho

    A sommelier might confidently pair Salta Torrontés with dishes traditionally reserved for Riesling or Grüner Veltliner.

    Mendoza: Softer and More Commercial

    Mendoza’s Torrontés tends to be broader and fruit-forward due to warmer conditions and different vineyard elevations.

    Expect:

    • Pear
    • Melon
    • Tropical fruit
    • Softer acidity
    • Rounder texture

    These wines are often approachable young and ideal for casual summer drinking.

    Perfect pairings include:

    • Grilled shrimp tacos
    • Summer salads
    • Goat cheese
    • Peach burrata
    • Chicken piccata
    • Light seafood pasta

    San Juan: Sun-Kissed and Exotic

    San Juan’s warmer climate can push Torrontés into more exotic territory.

    Here the wines often show:

    • Mango
    • Pineapple
    • Orange oil
    • Honeyed floral notes
    • Fuller body

    These expressions work beautifully alongside:

    • Caribbean cuisine
    • Jerk chicken
    • Coconut curries
    • Spicy pork dishes
    • Tamarind-glazed seafood
    seafood meal on plate with white wine on side
    Photo by Sarda Bamberg on Pexels.com

    Winemaking Styles and Modern Interpretations

    For years, Torrontés suffered from simplistic production methods that emphasized perfume at the expense of balance. Overcropping and late harvesting created wines that felt blowsy, bitter, and overly perfumed.

    Modern Argentine producers have dramatically refined the category.

    Today’s top producers focus on:

    • Earlier harvesting
    • Controlled temperatures
    • Lees aging
    • Concrete fermentation
    • Minimal oxidation
    • Precision viticulture

    The results are extraordinary.

    Stainless Steel Torrontés

    The most common style.

    Bright, fresh, and aromatic with:

    • Citrus blossom
    • Green melon
    • Lime zest
    • White peach

    Perfect for immediate consumption and ideal for summer service programs.

    Lees-Aged Torrontés

    Some producers experiment with sur lie aging to add texture and complexity.

    These wines develop:

    • Creamier mid-palates
    • Almond notes
    • Chamomile
    • Beeswax
    • Saline depth

    These more serious examples can stand beside richer seafood preparations like lobster with saffron beurre blanc or roasted halibut.

    Skin-Contact Torrontés

    Orange wine producers have discovered Torrontés is exceptionally compelling with extended maceration.

    Its naturally aromatic skins produce wines with:

    • Tea tannins
    • Bitter orange
    • Dried flowers
    • Apricot skin
    • Savory spice

    These wines become ideal for adventurous pairings:

    The Sommelier’s Secret Weapon

    One reason sommeliers adore Torrontés is its ability to solve difficult pairing situations.

    Spicy dishes often destroy many wines:

    • High alcohol amplifies heat.
    • Heavy oak clashes with aromatics.
    • Massive tannins become metallic.

    Torrontés succeeds because it combines:

    • Moderate alcohol
    • Intense aromatics
    • Bright acidity
    • Low tannin
    • Dry finish

    It behaves almost like a bridge between aromatic whites and acid-driven whites.

    Exceptional pairings include:

    And perhaps unexpectedly, Torrontés can shine with brunch.

    Imagine:

    This is early summer wine at its finest.

    Cover photo by nomad_sw18, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Myths, Lore, and Fascinating Tidbits

    Torrontés has accumulated its fair share of misconceptions and romantic myths over the centuries.

    One enduring legend claims the grape was secretly cultivated by Jesuit missionaries high in the Andes because its intoxicating floral aroma symbolized “the perfume of paradise.” While historically unverified, the story persists throughout parts of northern Argentina.

    Another common myth is that Torrontés is genetically related to Spain’s Torrontés grapes from Galicia. In reality, they are entirely different varieties sharing only a name.

    There is also a persistent belief among tourists visiting Argentina that Torrontés must be sweet because of its nose. Many first-time drinkers experience genuine surprise after the first sip.

    Sommeliers often exploit this beautifully during tastings:
    “Smell this wine and guess whether it’s sweet or dry.”

    The reveal almost always sparks conversation.

    And while Malbec dominates exports, many Argentine winemakers privately consider Torrontés their true signature grape because no other country expresses it with the same authenticity or consistency.

    Serving and Cellaring

    Torrontés is generally best enjoyed young when its aromatics are vibrant and lifted. Most bottles perform beautifully within 2–4 years of vintage.

    However, elite high-altitude examples from Salta can age surprisingly well for 5–8 years, gaining:

    • Honeycomb notes
    • Dried herbs
    • Chamomile
    • Petrol nuances
    • Nutty complexity

    Serve slightly warmer than basic Sauvignon Blanc:

    • Around 48–52°F

    Too cold and the aromatics become muted.

    Related SOMM&SOMM Article: Wine Service: Proper Serving Temperatures

    Glassware matters as well. Aromatic white wine stems or even smaller Burgundy bowls allow Torrontés to fully express its explosive nose.

    Why Torrontés Matters

    In a wine world increasingly dominated by international sameness, Torrontés feels gloriously distinct.

    It does not chase Chardonnay richness.
    It does not mimic Sauvignon Blanc sharpness.
    It does not imitate Pinot Grigio neutrality.

    Instead, it proudly embraces its own identity:
    perfumed, vibrant, refreshing, and unmistakably Argentine.

    For wine educators, Torrontés offers a masterclass in aromatic deception and terroir expression.
    For sommeliers, it becomes a versatile pairing weapon.
    For casual drinkers, it offers immediate pleasure and tremendous value.
    For warm evenings and early summer gatherings, it may be one of the most joyful wines imaginable.

    Malbec may remain Argentina’s king.

    But Torrontés?
    Torrontés is its poetry in bloom.

    Cover photo by Jameson Fink, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons