Category: Wine Business

The Sugars Behind Your Sips

Let’s face it—sugar gets a bad rap these days. Whether it’s hiding in your cereal, lurking in sauces, or being dissected on nutrition labels, sugar has become a buzzword. But in the world of wine, sugar isn’t some evil saboteur. It’s the lifeblood of fermentation, the foundation of balance, and sometimes—just sometimes—the reason your wine sings with ripe peach or sassy cherry notes.

Yet, sugar in wine is wildly misunderstood. Just because a wine tastes sweet doesn’t necessarily mean it’s sugary. And just because a wine is dry doesn’t mean sugar isn’t playing its part in the background. So let’s peel back the grape skin and dive into the sticky truth about sugar in wine.

A.Savin, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Sugars in Wine Grapes

Grapes are little chemistry labs on a vine, and their sugars are anything but simple. Here are the main players:

Glucose – A common simple sugar, and yeast’s favorite snack. Present in nearly equal amounts with fructose during grape ripening.
Fructose – The fruitier twin of glucose. It’s sweeter to taste and becomes dominant as grapes ripen and overripen.
Sucrose – Rare in grapes. It’s broken down into glucose and fructose almost immediately.
Galactose & Sorbitol – Present in tiny amounts and not very influential in fermentation, but still part of the biochemical crew.

Fun fact: Only glucose and fructose are fermentable sugars. The others? They’re just hanging out in the background like flavor groupies.

Sugar’s Purpose in Wine

Let’s get one thing straight: Residual Sugar (RS) is not the same as perceived sweetness.

RS is the sugar left behind after fermentation. This can be intentional (hello, Riesling!) or accidental (hi, stuck fermentation). But sweetness on the palate? That’s a combination of sugar, acidity, alcohol, tannin, and fruitiness. A dry wine can taste sweet if it’s loaded with ripe fruit and low in acid.

Sugar’s role in winemaking is multifaceted:

It feeds the yeast, which convert sugar into alcohol, CO₂, and flavor compounds.
It influences mouthfeel and body—sweeter wines often feel fuller.
It helps balance acidity, especially in cool-climate wines.

From Veraison to Harvest

At the start of grape development, acids dominate. Think green, tart, mouth-puckering grapes. But as the grape matures (a process called veraison), chlorophyll fades and sugar floods in.

Initially, glucose and fructose arrive in balance (1:1). But as ripening continues:

Fructose levels rise faster.
Glucose levels plateau or even decline slightly.

By harvest, fructose becomes the dominant sugar, and that’s key—because fructose is about 1.5x sweeter than glucose. So a late-harvest wine? It’s richer in fructose, which contributes more to sweetness—especially if the wine is made to retain RS.

Why Some Wines Are Sweeter Than Others

The reasons are delightfully diverse:

Yeast Selection & Fermentation Control
Some winemakers stop fermentation early—either by chilling the wine, adding sulfur, or filtering out the yeast—leaving unfermented sugar behind.
Grape Ripeness
Late harvest, botrytized (noble rot), and dried grapes (passito method) have sky-high sugar levels. Not all of it gets fermented, especially in high-alcohol environments.
Fortification
In wines like Port, fermentation is halted by adding brandy, locking in sugars and boosting alcohol.
Winemaking Traditions
German Kabinett vs. Auslese Riesling, Vouvray Sec vs. Moelleux—some regions embrace sugar as a stylistic hallmark.
Intentional Back-Sweetening
Yes, in some cases, especially in inexpensive wines or mass-market blends, sugar is added after fermentation to soften rough edges or mask imbalances. (We see you, off-dry Moscato.)

A Lighthearted Guide to Residual Sugar

Style	RS Range (g/L)	Common Wines	Taste Perception
Bone Dry	0–1	Brut Champagne, Muscadet	Sharp, crisp, dry AF
Dry	1–10	Sancerre, Chablis, Chianti	Dry, but fruity is OK
Off-Dry	10–30	Riesling Kabinett, Vouvray	Light sweetness
Medium Sweet	30–60	Moscato, Gewürztraminer	Noticeable but refreshing
Sweet	60–120	Port, Sauternes	Dessert-level richness
Lusciously Sweet	120+	Ice Wine, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos	Nectar of the gods

Dessert, or Just a Sweet Moment?

Here’s the big takeaway: Sweetness in wine isn’t always about sugar.

That plush California Chardonnay that reminds you of a tropical smoothie? It might have almost no residual sugar but loads of ripe fruit and new oak.

That Italian Brachetto you had on a patio last summer? Light in alcohol, fizzing with red berry notes, and low-key sugar? Yeah, that was actually sweet.

Respect the Sugar

Sugar is the unsung hero of wine. Without it, there’d be no fermentation, no alcohol, no balance. It’s the yeast’s playground, the winemaker’s tool, and the drinker’s delight.

So next time someone scoffs at sweet wines, hand them a glass of well-made Spätlese or Tokaji and watch their misconceptions melt away like sorbet on a summer day.

Because sometimes… life really is sweeter with wine. Cheers 🍷

Bonus Sip: Sweet Surprises & Sugar Truths

Now that we’ve unraveled the mysteries of sugar in wine, it’s time to sweeten the deal. Below you’ll find a curated list of exceptional sweet wines worth exploring, along with a breakdown of common misconceptions that often lead wine lovers astray. Whether you’re a die-hard dry drinker or a sweet wine skeptic, these bonus sips of knowledge might just change the way you see—and taste—wine. Cheers to keeping an open mind and an open palate!

Misconceptions & Misinterpretations

Let’s get this out of the way—sweet wine does not equal cheap wine, and dry wine does not always mean better wine. Somewhere along the way, the wine world developed a bit of snobbery around sugar. The modern palate, shaped by marketing and misunderstood wine rules, has come to associate sweetness with mass-produced, low-quality wines.

That’s simply not true.

Many of the world’s most prestigious wines are sweet—intentionally and artfully so. A bottle of Sauternes from Château d’Yquem can fetch thousands of dollars and age gracefully for decades. German Rieslings labeled Auslese or Trockenbeerenauslese are crafted with painstaking precision. Tokaji Aszú from Hungary was once called the “Wine of Kings, King of Wines” by Louis XIV, and for good reason.

Related SOMM&SOMM Article: Wine Styles: Late Harvest Wines

What’s really happening is that perceived sweetness is being mistaken for residual sugar. A juicy Malbec with ripe plum and chocolate notes might be totally dry (under 2 g/L RS), but your brain reads all that ripe fruit as “sweet.” Meanwhile, a high-acid Riesling with 25 g/L RS might come off as light, zippy, and almost dry due to the acidity balancing the sugar.

So instead of treating sugar like a four-letter word, think of it like salt in food. Used well, it elevates everything.

Best Intentionally Sweet Wines to Try

If you’ve been living in the “dry only” camp, consider this your invitation to the sweet side of the cellar. These aren’t syrupy bottom-shelf bombs. These are masterful wines that showcase the balance between richness, acidity, aromatics, and craftsmanship.

Riesling (Germany, Austria, Alsace)

One of the most versatile and age-worthy white wines on earth. Styles range from off-dry Kabinett to decadently sweet Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA). Look for Mosel Rieslings with high acidity that keep sweetness refreshing, not cloying.

Tokaji Aszú (Hungary)

Made from botrytized Furmint grapes, Tokaji Aszú is honeyed, nutty, and complex. Labeled by “puttonyos,” which refer to the level of sweetness (3 to 6). The 5–6 Puttonyos level is where magic happens.

Sauternes (France – Bordeaux)

A noble rot wine made primarily from Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Think candied citrus, saffron, honey, and apricot. The acidity is key—it balances the intense sweetness beautifully.

Vin Santo (Italy – Tuscany)

A luscious dessert wine made from dried Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes. Notes of caramel, toasted almond, and orange peel make it ideal with biscotti—or just on its own by a fire.

Ice Wine / Eiswein (Germany, Canada)

These grapes are harvested while frozen on the vine, concentrating the sugars and flavors. The result is intensely sweet, with bracing acidity. Canada’s Niagara region and Germany’s Rheinhessen make some of the best.

Recioto della Valpolicella (Italy – Veneto)

Made from partially dried Corvina grapes (the same ones used in Amarone), this red dessert wine is rich, raisiny, and chocolatey—perfect with dark chocolate cake or strong cheese.

Muscat/Moscato d’Asti (Italy – Piedmont)

Low in alcohol, lightly sparkling, and delicately sweet. This one’s your picnic or brunch buddy, best served cold and sipped with fruit tarts or creamy cheeses.

Sweet wines—when done right—are a celebration of craft, patience, and nature. They aren’t just dessert wines; they’re experience wines, meant to be savored slowly, with food or without. So whether you’re a sweet wine skeptic or a seasoned sipper, the world of sugar in wine is worth a second look… and a generous pour.

Now go forth and sweeten your wine wisdom! 🍷✨ Want more deep dives like this? Stay tuned at SOMM&SOMM, where curiosity and corks collide.

July 21, 2025

Forbidden Fruit

The Banned Grapes of Wine History.

In a world where wine is both a pleasure and a regulated agricultural product, the grapes that fill your glass are not always a matter of tradition, terroir, or taste—but of law. The wines you sip, cellar, or celebrate with are shaped not only by centuries of viticultural evolution but also by sweeping legislation that determines what may—and may not—be grown, labeled, and sold as wine.

Among the many curiosities of global wine law lies a particularly juicy topic: forbidden fruit—grape varieties that have been banned or heavily restricted, particularly in the European Union. Their names whisper through the back alleys of viticultural history like outlawed poets: Noah, Othello, Isabelle, Jacquez, Clinton, and Herbemont.

These grapes, many of them American in origin or hybridized with American species, were once planted across Europe, often out of necessity. Today, they are outlawed under Article 81 of EU Regulation 1308/2013, which governs the production and classification of wine grape varieties in the Union. The regulation states:

“Only wine grape varieties meeting the following conditions may be classified by Member States:
(a) the variety concerned belongs to the species Vitis vinifera or comes from a cross between the species Vitis vinifera and other species of the genus Vitis;
(b) the variety is not one of the following: Noah, Othello, Isabelle, Jacquez, Clinton, and Herbemont.”

Let’s explore the forbidden fruit of wine—the banned grapes themselves, their unique characteristics, why they were planted in the first place, and what caused their ultimate prohibition. These are not just curiosities; they are the ghosts of a viticultural rebellion, and their legacy still haunts the fringes of wine culture today.

The Historical Context

In the late 19th century, Vitis vinifera vineyards across Europe were devastated by the Phylloxera epidemic, a microscopic root-feeding insect inadvertently introduced from North America. With no resistance to this louse, Europe’s noble vines died en masse. Desperation led vintners to seek salvation in the very continent that brought the plague—North America.

American grape varieties like Vitis labrusca, Vitis riparia, and their hybrids offered something miraculous: phylloxera resistance. Initially, some of these American vines were planted directly in European soil to replace dead vines and maintain wine production. Many grew vigorously and bore fruit prolifically. But their success was short-lived.

Six Forbidden Grape Varieties

Noah

Origin: A hybrid of Vitis riparia × Vitis labrusca
Flavors: Pungent, foxy (a musky, earthy flavor common in V. labrusca), often described as wild strawberry or candied grape
Why It Was Banned:

Intense foxy aroma and taste considered undesirable and un-winelike
Thin-skinned berries prone to rot in certain climates
Associated with poor-quality table wines in post-Phylloxera France

Othello

Origin: Vitis labrusca hybrid, possibly including Vitis vinifera genetics
Flavors: Deeply pigmented with earthy, gamey notes and labrusca musk
Why It Was Banned:

As with other hybrids, its sensory profile did not meet European expectations for fine wine
Resistance to European fermentation techniques (longer ferment times, unpredictable aromatics)
Accused of contributing to public intoxication due to strong, rustic flavors that masked alcohol strength

Isabelle

Origin: Vitis labrusca × Vitis vinifera
Flavors: Strawberry, bubblegum, purple grape juice
Why It Was Banned:

High methanol content feared to be harmful in large doses (though this has been contested)
Overpowering aromas viewed as unrefined by French authorities
Once widespread in Italy and Southern France, it became a symbol of cheap, rural wine

Jacquez (a.k.a. Black Spanish)

Origin: Possibly a cross of Vitis aestivalis, V. vinifera, and V. cinerea
Flavors: Dark berry, spicy, tannic, with notes of underbrush
Why It Was Banned:

Despite some early promise, it was considered too unconventional
Part of the hybrid scare that followed Isabelle and Noah
Viewed as incompatible with traditional European wine culture

Clinton

Origin: Vitis riparia × Vitis labrusca
Flavors: Herbaceous, sour cherry, strong wild grape flavor
Why It Was Banned:

Extreme foxy aroma off-putting to most European palates
Used primarily in rural, peasant wines during the Phylloxera crisis
Perceived as lacking refinement and fermentation stability

Herbemont

Origin: Possibly a hybrid of Vitis vinifera and Vitis aestivalis
Flavors: Musky, perfumed, and surprisingly delicate in some climates
Why It Was Banned:

Less widespread than the others, but lumped into the ban due to hybrid ancestry
Suspected methanol risks and lack of predictable vinification
Part of a general effort to restore vinifera-only wine law supremacy

The Real Reasons Behind the Ban

While flavor and fermentation challenges were the most visible justifications for banning these grapes, the real reasons go deeper. These include:

Cultural Superiority and Market Protection

Post-Phylloxera, France in particular wanted to reclaim wine as a refined agricultural product, not a rural necessity. American and hybrid grapes represented chaos—a collapse of tradition. By the 20th century, wine laws began to frame hybrids as a threat to the AOC system and the image of French wine.

Fear of Methanol Toxicity

Some hybrids, particularly labrusca crosses, were accused of producing higher levels of methanol during fermentation. However, modern science suggests the levels were likely within safe margins if fermented correctly. Still, the fear took root—and the narrative stuck.

Economic Centralization

France and later the EU wanted to consolidate the wine industry around traditional grapes, often to protect exports and standardize quality. Hybrids were associated with rustic, small-scale producers. The bans effectively curtailed these competitors.

Sensory Profiling

The term “foxy,” used to describe labrusca hybrids, became shorthand for unacceptable. The bias was less scientific than aesthetic—a rejection of New World taste in favor of the European palate.

Are These Grapes Really Dangerous or Just Different?

In recent years, many winemakers, particularly natural wine producers and sustainable agriculture advocates, have questioned these bans. Some point to:

The resilience of these grapes in the face of climate change
Their low-input agricultural potential (less need for pesticides)
The possibility of redefining wine taste beyond the rigid expectations of 20th-century Europe

Regions in the U.S., Canada, and even some rebel producers in France and Italy have continued to experiment—often quietly—with these grapes.

The Future of Forbidden Fruit

As the wine world grapples with climate change, disease pressure, and evolving consumer taste, the question lingers:

Should the laws of the past dictate the palate of the future?

Already, new EU regulations have begun allowing more hybrid crossings for certain uses (especially sparkling and low-alcohol wines), and experimental vineyards are pushing boundaries. The forbidden fruit, once cast out of Eden, is being quietly replanted.

One notable example comes from the Azores, where winemaker António Maçanita embraces the outlawed Isabella grape in a wine named “Isabella a Proibida”. The grape, banned under EU wine laws for use in classified quality wines (PDO/PGI), is grown on ancient pergola-trained vines on the island of Pico.

This wine pays tribute to the past, celebrating the resilience of a grape long maligned by regulators but still cherished by local growers. Such wines are challenging assumptions and redefining what quality, character, and authenticity mean in a changing world.

Here’s a quick reference visual that outlines the main Vitis species used in wine production (or breeding).

Vitis Species and Associated Grape Varietals

Vitis Species	Common Traits	Example Varietals
Vitis vinifera	European origin; preferred for fine wine; low disease resistance	Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo
Vitis labrusca	Native to eastern North America; “foxy” aroma; cold-hardy	Concord, Niagara, Isabella, Catawba
Vitis riparia	Extremely cold-hardy; used in rootstocks and hybrids	Used for breeding: Marechal Foch, Frontenac
Vitis aestivalis	High disease resistance; poor graft compatibility; non-foxy	Norton (Cynthiana), Herbemont
Vitis berlandieri	High lime tolerance; used mainly in rootstocks	Rootstock parent: 41B, 5BB
Vitis rupestris	Deep root system; phylloxera resistant; drought-tolerant	Rootstock parent: St. George, 110R
Vitis amurensis	Native to East Asia; extremely cold-hardy; growing in popularity in China & Russia	Rondo (hybrid), Koshu (disputed origins)
Interspecific Hybrids	Combines vinifera and American species; disease-resistant; sometimes banned	Baco Noir, Chambourcin, Seyval Blanc, Jacquez

A Toast to the Outcasts

The next time you sip a glass of classic Bordeaux or Burgundy, spare a thought for the outlawed grapes that helped keep wine alive during one of its darkest hours. They may not be in your glass—but they are in your history.

And if you’re ever offered a bottle of forbidden wine, made in defiance of convention and law, don’t refuse it. Raise a glass and taste the rebellion. Cheers 🍷

Further Reading & Tasting Tips

Seek out Black Spanish (Jacquez) wines from Texas or Mexico.
Try a hybrid wine from Canada or Vermont (Frontenac, Marquette, or Baco Noir).
Look for limited-edition natural wines using heritage hybrids in France’s Loire Valley or Italy’s north.
Read “The Botanist and the Vintner” by Christy Campbell for Phylloxera-era drama.

Cover Photo by Emmanuel Codden on Pexels.com

July 15, 2025

Flamenco, Folklore, and Fine Print

Decoding Spanish Wine Laws.

Ah, Spain. Land of siestas, fiestas, jamón ibérico, and—of course—vino that spans everything from rustic reds aged in dusty cellars to crisp Albariños served seaside with octopus. If you’ve already explored the strict hierarchies of French AOCs and Italy’s quality-focused DOCGs, prepare to dance to a slightly different beat—because Spain’s wine law is a flamenco of structure, tradition, and a little rebel heart.

Let’s swirl and sip our way through Spain’s classification system and how it compares to its Gallic and Italic cousins—with some myth-busting and lore-taming along the way.

A Pyramid with Flamenco Shoes

Spain’s wine classification system, like France’s and Italy’s, is built on a quality pyramid—but Spain’s version is both more relaxed in practice and more nuanced in regional autonomy.

Here’s the main structure from base to peak:

Vino de Mesa (Table Wine)

The base of the pyramid, now rarely used or exported, these are basic wines with no geographical indication. Often simple blends.

Fun Fact: Due to stricter laws for higher categories, some excellent wines (especially early on) chose to remain labeled as table wine—just like Italy’s famous Super Tuscans did in their rebellious youth.

Vino de la Tierra (VdLT)

Think of this like France’s Vin de Pays or Italy’s IGT. These wines have a geographical indication, but not the stringent rules of higher classifications.

Debunking Time:
“Vino de la Tierra is cheap and low-quality.”
❌ Nope!
While it’s often priced affordably, many boutique producers use VdLT to work outside the box with international varietals or blends. It’s a creative sandbox—like a Tempranillo-Syrah blend from Castilla y León that sings louder than any DO neighbor.

Denominación de Origen (DO)

This is the workhorse of Spanish wine classification—similar to France’s AOC or Italy’s DOC. DO wines must follow specific regulations regarding grape types, yields, aging, and geographic sourcing.

There are currently 70+ DOs, covering famed regions like:

Rueda – crisp, citrusy Verdejo
Rías Baixas – home of Albariño
Priorat – intense reds from old vines
La Mancha – one of the largest in Europe
Navarra – a rosado rebel with a growing reputation

Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa or DOQ in Catalonia)

Spain’s top-tier designation, reserved for wines from exceptionally consistent regions. So far, only two regions wear this crown:

Rioja DOCa
Priorat DOQ (in Catalonia)

How it compares:

Like Italy’s DOCG and France’s Grand Cru AOC, DOCa wines must pass stricter quality and aging criteria, and the wineries must bottle their wines within the region itself.

Lore-Tamer:
“All the best Spanish wine is from Rioja.”
🚫 Not anymore!
While Rioja deserves its fame, Priorat, Bierzo, Ribera del Duero, and even Canary Island wines are winning hearts, medals, and Michelin-starred wine lists across the globe.

Vino de Pago (VP) – The Spanish Wild Card

Unique to Spain (introduced in 2003), this elite category doesn’t fit neatly into a pyramid. Instead, it elevates individual estates or vineyards that demonstrate top-tier quality and distinctiveness.

To qualify, a pago must:

Have its own microclimate and terroir
Use estate-grown grapes only
Meet DO-level production standards or higher

Examples include:

Pago de Arínzano
Pago de Vallegarcía
Dominio de Valdepusa

Think: Spain’s answer to France’s Grand Cru single-vineyards—but regulated at the national level.

Aging Gracefully

Spain adds another twist: aging classifications that often appear on labels regardless of the region.

Here’s the cheat sheet for red wines (rules vary slightly by region):

Label	Minimum Aging	Barrel	Bottle
Crianza	2 years	6 months	18 months
Reserva	3 years	12 months	24 months
Gran Reserva	5 years	18 months	42 months

Note: White and rosado wines require less time overall.

Fun Misconception:
“Gran Reserva = Best wine.”
🤔 Not always. Aging tells you how long it matured, not how good it is. Some wines age beautifully; others lose their soul if forced to sit too long. Context is key—and sometimes a fresh, fruit-forward Crianza pairs better with tapas than a leathery Gran Reserva.

Autonomy and Identity

One major difference between Spain and its neighbors? The autonomous power of regions. Spain’s 17 Autonomous Communities (like Galicia, Catalonia, Andalusia) have significant say in how their DOs are governed. Some even overlap political tensions—Catalonia’s DOs often distinguish themselves from national Spanish identity.

This regional independence is part of what gives Spain such breathtaking diversity—in grapes, styles, and labeling practices.

Native Grapes, No Apologies

Spain is home to over 400 native grape varieties, though fewer than 20 dominate production. Among them:

Tempranillo – Spain’s signature red grape, known by many names (Tinta del País, Cencibel, Ull de Llebre).
Garnacha – The Spanish Grenache, spicy and ripe.
Albariño – Citrus-kissed white from Galicia.
Verdejo – Zesty, often underestimated.
Godello, Mencía, Bobal, Trepat – hidden gems waiting to be discovered.

Lore-Tamer:
“Spain = just Rioja reds.”
⛔ Nope. Spain offers volcanic whites from the Canaries, slate-soaked reds from Priorat, coastal charm in Albariño, and fizzy fun in Cava.

Comparative Snapshot: Spain vs France vs Italy

Feature	Spain	France	Italy
Entry-Level	Vino de Mesa	Vin de France	Vino da Tavola
PGI/IGT Tier	Vino de la Tierra	IGP (Vin de Pays)	IGT
Main Classification	DO	AOC/AOP	DOC
Highest Tier	DOCa/DOQ, Vino de Pago	Grand Cru, Premier Cru (AOC)	DOCG
Estate Classification	Vino de Pago	Château system, Grand Cru	Less formalized
Aging Terms	Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva	Region-dependent	Riserva, Superiore
Regional Authority	High autonomy in regions	Centralized via INAO	Mixed (Central and Regional)

What Makes Spain Special?

Spain’s wine laws balance tradition with experimentation, allowing producers the freedom to create expressive, terroir-driven wines—while offering enough structure to protect authenticity and regional identity.

So whether you’re sipping a flinty Godello from Valdeorras, a powerful Garnacha from Aragón, or a seductive Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero, you’re drinking more than just fermented grape juice.

You’re tasting a nation that knows its roots but isn’t afraid to dance to its own rhythm. 🍷

Cover Photo by Grape Things on Pexels.com

June 13, 2025

Understanding French Wine Laws
A Journey Through Terroir, Tradition, and Quality.

When wine lovers think of France, they often conjure images of majestic châteaux in Bordeaux, fog-shrouded slopes in Burgundy, and sun-soaked fields in Provence. But beneath the romance lies a rigorous—and sometimes perplexing—system of wine laws and classifications that govern everything from grape varieties to bottle shape. These rules are not just bureaucratic red tape; they’re the framework that has helped France maintain a global reputation for excellence.

Photo by Liv Kao on Pexels.com

Whether you’re swirling a silky red from the Rhône or sipping a crisp Muscadet from the Loire, there’s a system behind that wine—one that tells you where it came from, how it was made, and what to expect. Let’s uncork the bottle and pour through the fascinating world of French wine laws, region by region.

From Chaos to Codification

To understand French wine law, we must rewind to the early 20th century. Rampant fraud during and after World War I saw low-quality wines being passed off as prestigious regional bottlings. To combat this, France developed a system to protect both producers and consumers.

In 1935, the government formed the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO)—now called the INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité). Their job? Define, regulate, and enforce wine quality and authenticity through a new legal structure.

This led to the creation of the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system—the granddaddy of all French wine classifications.

French Wine Quality Pyramid

Modern French wines are now classified into three primary quality tiers:
1. AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) – The highest and most tightly regulated tier. Think of this as “terroir-bound” wine.
2. IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) – Looser restrictions, allowing more experimentation while still tied to a broader region.
3. Vin de France – Table wine with minimal regulation. The Wild West of French wine.
Each tier has a purpose, and great wine can be found in all three—but AOC wines carry the most prestige, especially from classic regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne.

Photo by Vladimir Srajber on Pexels.com

Bordeaux: Classification by Château, Not Terroir

Bordeaux, France’s largest and most commercially dominant wine region, takes a top-down approach to classification. Unlike Burgundy (more on that shortly), Bordeaux wines are historically classified by estate, not by vineyard.

The 1855 Classification (Left Bank)

Created for the Paris Exposition under Napoleon III, this famous classification ranks 61 châteaux in Médoc and one from Graves (Haut-Brion), plus sweet wines from Sauternes and Barsac. These wines were grouped into five “growths” or crus, based on reputation and price at the time.
- Premier Cru (First Growth): Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion, and later Château Mouton Rothschild (elevated in 1973).
- Second to Fifth Growths: A descending list of estates still highly regarded.
This classification remains mostly unchanged and ignores terroir variation, focusing instead on estate prestige.

Graves and Pomerol
- Graves introduced its own classification in 1959.
- Saint-Émilion has a dynamic classification system, updated roughly every 10 years, most recently in 2022.
- Pomerol, home to the legendary Pétrus, has no official classification—its wines speak for themselves.
Summary:
- Focus: Prestige of the estate (Château).
- Result: Classification may remain unchanged even if the wine quality fluctuates.
A Quick Note on Graves Classification

While Bordeaux’s 1855 Classification famously skipped over much of Graves, this historic region got its own moment in the spotlight in 1959. The Graves Classification includes both red and white wines—a rarity in Bordeaux—and focuses solely on producers in the northern Graves, now largely within the Pessac-Léognan AOC (created in 1987).

Notably, all classified estates in Graves are unranked—there are no first, second, or fifth growths here. The list includes powerhouses like Château Haut-Brion (the only estate in both the 1855 and Graves classifications), Château Pape Clément, and Domaine de Chevalier.

This classification may fly under the radar, but it represents some of Bordeaux’s most age-worthy whites and nuanced reds—making Graves a treasure for savvy wine lovers.

Photo by Gu Bra on Pexels.com

Burgundy: The Gospel of Terroir

In contrast, Burgundy classifies by vineyard. It’s a bottom-up system, celebrating the land rather than the producer. You’ll often hear that “Burgundy is for lovers of nuance.”

The Four Tiers of Burgundy:
1. Grand Cru (1% of production) – The top-tier vineyards, like Romanée-Conti, Montrachet, and Clos de Vougeot.
2. Premier Cru (10%) – Excellent vineyards within a village, such as Volnay 1er Cru “Champans”.
3. Village Wines (36%) – Wines from a single village, such as Pommard or Meursault.
4. Regional Wines (53%) – Broadest classification, e.g., Bourgogne Pinot Noir.
Why This Matters:

A vineyard like Clos Saint-Jacques in Gevrey-Chambertin may produce Premier Cru wines from multiple producers, each with a different style. It’s the plot of land that earns prestige, not the winemaker.

Summary:
- Focus: Terroir and microclimate.
- Result: The vineyard’s position on a slope or soil type can dramatically affect quality and price.
Photo by cottonbro studio on Pexels.com

Other Regional Examples: Law and Lore

Champagne: Blends and Brands

Champagne has strict AOC rules: only certain grapes (mainly Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier), méthode traditionnelle fermentation, and long aging on lees. Interestingly, most Champagne is blended across villages and vintages—a stylistic choice that makes it distinct.
- Grand Cru Villages include Aÿ, Ambonnay, and Avize.
- Non-Vintage (NV) Champagne must age a minimum of 15 months; vintage Champagne requires 3 years.
Rhône Valley: A Tale of Two Halves
- Northern Rhône (e.g., Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie): single varietal wines (mostly Syrah), steep slopes, small production.
- Southern Rhône (e.g., Châteauneuf-du-Pape): blends (up to 13 grapes!), more liberal.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape was the first French AOC (1936). The lore? The papacy moved to Avignon in the 14th century, and the popes developed a taste for local wines—hence the name “New Castle of the Pope.”

Loire Valley: Label Labyrinth

Known for its diversity, the Loire boasts appellations like:
- Sancerre (Sauvignon Blanc)
- Vouvray (Chenin Blanc, often sparkling or off-dry)
- Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine (Melon de Bourgogne) – famous for sur lie aging
Related article: Perfect Pairings: Melon de Bourgogne w/Fettuccini With Clams and Dill

Loire rules often reflect specific winemaking methods (e.g., sur lie) more than rigid hierarchies.

Alsace: AOC Meets Germanic Order

Despite its location in France, Alsace follows a style reminiscent of neighboring Germany:
- Mostly varietal-labeled wines (Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris)
- Only 51 Grand Cru vineyards, defined by soil and slope.
- Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles refer to late-harvest and botrytized wines.
Alsace is also the only major French region where labels prominently display the grape variety.

AOC vs. IGP: A Matter of Freedom

IGP (formerly Vin de Pays)

These wines fall between strict AOC control and generic Vin de France. Regions like Pays d’Oc allow experimentation:
- Unusual grape combinations (Cabernet + Syrah? Sure.)
- Non-traditional styles
You’ll find creative winemakers here, often producing excellent wines outside traditional rules.

Vin de France: The Rebel Artist

These wines can come from anywhere in France and allow complete freedom in blending and labeling. They can’t show an appellation but may show grape variety and vintage, making them more accessible for casual drinkers. Some top producers use this category intentionally, to avoid AOC constraints.

A Balancing Act of Tradition and Innovation

French wine laws are not a maze meant to confuse, but rather a mosaic of history, geography, and philosophy. While Bordeaux emphasizes brand and estate, Burgundy honors soil and slope. Champagne values consistency, while Rhône and Loire embrace diversity.

In France, a wine’s origin is its identity!
Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

Understanding these laws allows wine lovers to decode the label and appreciate the craft behind every bottle. In France, a wine’s origin is its identity, and these legal systems—however complex—ensure that identity is preserved.

So next time you’re in your local wine shop or exploring a wine list, let the appellation guide you. Behind that AOC or IGP acronym lies a rich story—one that began centuries ago and continues to evolve with every vintage. Santé!

Cover photo: michael clarke stuff, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
June 1, 2025

Italy in the Glass

Unlocking the 77 DOCGs, 330 DOCs, and the Curious Case of IGT.

When it comes to wine, Italy is both a gift and a glorious puzzle. With 20 distinct regions, more than 2,000 native grape varieties, and a labyrinth of wine laws, it’s no wonder sommeliers get giddy at the mere sight of a hand-drawn Italian wine map. At the center of this puzzle are Italy’s quality classifications: DOCG, DOC, and IGT—three little acronyms that carry centuries of tradition, rebellion, pride, and plenty of good vino.

In this article, we’ll demystify the 77 (or is it 78?) Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) and 330 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC) appellations spread across Italy’s 20 wine regions. We’ll explore how the Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) came to be, why it still matters today, and whether these labels are wine laws or wine lore. Spoiler: it’s a bit of both.

The Pyramid of Quality: DOCG vs. DOC vs. IGT

Italy’s wine classification system forms a three-tiered pyramid introduced formally with the 1963 wine law, which was heavily inspired by France’s AOC system but with that uniquely Italian flair (and bureaucracy). Here’s the breakdown:

DOCG – Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita

Top-tier designation, introduced in 1980
Wines must meet the strictest regulations: grape type, yield, alcohol, aging, and geography
Subject to government tasting panels before release
Guarantee seal on the neck of each bottle
There are currently 77 DOCGs, though some lists include 78 depending on how you count shared or overlapping appellations (we’re looking at you, Cannellino di Frascati and Frascati Superiore)

Examples:

Barolo DOCG (Piedmont) – 100% Nebbiolo, aged minimum 38 months
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany) – 100% Sangiovese Grosso, 5 years of aging
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG (Veneto) – dried grape process (appassimento), powerful and rich

DOC – Denominazione di Origine Controllata

Middle-tier, first established in 1966
Still regulated but slightly more flexible than DOCG
Also enforces rules on production zones, grapes, yields, and winemaking techniques
Includes many long-established regions or subregions not yet elevated to DOCG

There are around 330 DOCs, which evolve frequently as regions apply for DOCG status or boundaries are adjusted.

Examples:

Chianti DOC (Tuscany) – distinct from Chianti Classico DOCG
Etna DOC (Sicily) – volcanic reds and whites from Nerello Mascalese and Carricante
Lugana DOC (Lombardy/Veneto) – crisp whites from the Turbiana grape near Lake Garda

IGT – Indicazione Geografica Tipica

Introduced in 1992 to acknowledge high-quality wines outside the rigid DOC/DOCG systems
Flexible in grape usage, blending, and winemaking—ideal for experimentation
Geographic indication is the main requirement
Originally a reaction to Super Tuscan wines that didn’t fit DOC rules despite exceptional quality

Examples:

Toscana IGT – the birthplace of Super Tuscans like Sassicaia, Tignanello, and Ornellaia
Veneto IGT – widely used for innovative blends or single varietals like Merlot and Chardonnay
Sicilia IGT – often used for international grapes or modern styles of Nero d’Avola

How Did We Get Here? A Sip of History

Italy’s wine laws evolved from a country of regional customs into a unified classification system. In the early 20th century, counterfeit wines and inconsistent quality were widespread, leading to the 1963 law that created DOC and laid the groundwork for DOCG. But even that wasn’t enough.

In the 1970s, innovative winemakers in Tuscany grew frustrated by the limitations of DOC laws. They began producing bold, Bordeaux-style blends with Cabernet and Merlot, aging them in French oak, and labeling them simply as “vino da tavola” (table wine). These “Super Tuscans”—once rebels—outshone many DOC wines and gained international fame.

Italy responded in 1992 by creating the IGT category, legitimizing these high-quality outliers and restoring some order to the chaos.

The 20 Wine Regions – A Brief Look

Italy’s wine regions align with its administrative regions. Here are the 20 wine regions of Italy (North to South)

Region	Famous For
Valle d’Aosta	Tiny production, alpine Nebbiolo (called Picotendro), Prié Blanc
Piedmont (Piemonte)	Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto, Barbera, Moscato d’Asti
Liguria	Vermentino, Pigato, wines from terraced coastal vineyards
Lombardy (Lombardia)	Franciacorta (traditional method sparkling), Nebbiolo in Valtellina
Trentino-Alto Adige	Elegant whites (Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio), Germanic influence
Veneto	Amarone, Valpolicella, Soave, Prosecco
Friuli-Venezia Giulia	Orange wines, Ribolla Gialla, Sauvignon Blanc, skin-contact whites
Emilia-Romagna	Lambrusco, Sangiovese, sparkling reds, food-friendly wines
Tuscany (Toscana)	Chianti, Brunello, Vino Nobile, Super Tuscans
Umbria	Sagrantino di Montefalco, Grechetto, Orvieto
Marche	Verdicchio, Rosso Conero, Montepulciano blends
Lazio	Frascati, Cesanese, ancient Roman white wine zones
Abruzzo	Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Trebbiano
Molise	Small production, Biferno DOC, Tintilia grape revival
Campania	Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo, Falanghina
Basilicata	Aglianico del Vulture, high-altitude volcanic reds
Puglia (Apulia)	Primitivo, Negroamaro, full-bodied value reds
Calabria	Gaglioppo-based Cirò, Greco Bianco
Sicily (Sicilia)	Nero d’Avola, Etna wines, Grillo, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG
Sardinia (Sardegna)	Vermentino di Gallura DOCG, Cannonau (Grenache)

Is the Stamp of Quality a Marketing Ploy?

Let’s be honest: a neck label with “DOCG” in shiny gold doesn’t guarantee your world will change with one sip. But it does serve a purpose.

Benefits to Consumers:

Trust & transparency – You know where the wine is from and what’s inside
Production standards – DOCG wines are lab-tested and taste-tested
Cultural value – These labels preserve traditional winemaking and protect local identity

But Don’t Be Fooled…

Some DOCs and IGTs outperform DOCGs in quality
DOCG upgrades are sometimes politically driven
Great wine can come from outside the system

So yes, there’s a marketing angle—but it’s rooted in protecting regional identity, improving quality, and guiding consumers. Like any guide, it’s useful but not absolute.

SOMM&SOMM TIP: How to Use the Pyramid When Buying Wine

For traditionalists: Start with DOCG, especially Barolo, Brunello, Amarone.
For adventurers: Explore DOCs in less-known regions like Umbria, Marche, or Molise.
For rebels & innovators: Dive into IGTs—you’ll find unusual blends, single vineyard gems, and creative winemaking at great value.
For budget-conscious buyers: DOC wines often strike the best balance between structure, tradition, and price.

Embrace the Chaos with a Glass in Hand

Italy’s wine classifications can seem maddening, but they’re part of the country’s charm. Each DOCG and DOC tells a story—of place, people, and pride. IGT reminds us that some rules are made to be broken. The pyramid isn’t perfect, but it’s a powerful lens through which to explore one of the world’s most diverse wine-producing nations.

So the next time you pick up a bottle of Barolo or a renegade IGT Syrah from Sicily, remember: you’re not just drinking wine—you’re tasting history, rebellion, and a little bit of bureaucracy in a bottle.

Cin cin, amici 🍷

Cover photo by Pava, CC BY-SA 3.0 IT, via Wikimedia Commons

May 23, 2025

How Modern Winemaking Sacrifices Soul for Consistency
In a world that celebrates convenience and uniformity, wine—once the purest expression of nature, time, and place—has increasingly become just another consumer good. Something repeatable. Predictable. Safe. It’s no longer shocking to find wines on supermarket shelves that taste exactly the same from one year to the next, regardless of vintage variation, weather catastrophes, or harvest conditions. But the question isn’t just how they do it. The question is why we let it happen.

The answer lies in a complex web of regulatory loopholes, mass production incentives, and a calculated disregard for terroir in favor of branding.

Let’s pull the cork on this bottle of truth.

Photo by David on Pexels.com

The Myth of Yearly Uniformity

Vintage matters. Or at least, it should.

Each year offers a different symphony of weather patterns, soil moisture, sunlight hours, and grape health. In the hands of a winemaker dedicated to authenticity, these variables are not burdens—they are stories. They are a vintage’s voice.

But when a brand demands a Pinot Noir that tastes identical whether it’s 2019 or 2023, something must give. And that something is integrity.

Mainstream wines that offer this seamless “sameness” do so by manipulating the very fabric of the wine itself—pushing, pulling, blending, and fining until any trace of vintage expression is bleached out, polished, and made palatable for the masses.

Photo by Arthur Brognoli on Pexels.com

What They Don’t Teach in Tasting Rooms

Let’s talk technique. Below are just a few of the most common manipulations used to turn wine into a product, rather than a place.

Cross-Regional and Cross-Vintage Blending

Many large-scale producers legally blend grapes and wines from multiple regions and years—even if the bottle proudly proclaims a specific AVA or vintage.
- In the U.S., for a wine to list a vintage on the label, only 85% of the wine needs to be from that year (if an AVA is listed, 95% of the wine must be from that year).
- To list a varietal like Cabernet Sauvignon, just 75% of the wine must be that grape.
- For AVA labeling (like Napa Valley), 85% of the grapes must come from that AVA, leaving 15% open to grapes from cheaper, less expressive areas.
Reference: Wine Labeling: Appellation of Origin (TTB)

That’s 15–25% wiggle room per bottle. Multiply that across millions of cases, and what you have is a flavor profile engineered through spreadsheets rather than soil.

Fining and Filtering to Death

Fining—originally intended to clarify wine and reduce unwanted elements—has become a blunt instrument of manipulation.

Modern mass-market wines are heavily fined with substances like:
- PVPP (polyvinylpolypyrrolidone) – a synthetic polymer that strips bitterness and browning pigments.
- Gelatin, egg whites, isinglass – protein-based agents that strip tannins, texture, and character.
- Bentonite clay – used to strip proteins but also body and nuance.
The result? A wine stripped of its edges, its energy, its very fingerprint.

Photo by MART PRODUCTION on Pexels.com

Additive Alchemy

Winemaking additives are the dirty little secret of the industry. In many countries (including the U.S.), wineries are not required to list additives on labels. This means consumers have no idea that their wine might contain:
- Mega Purple – a concentrated grape juice colorant and sweetener that “corrects” wines lacking color or fruit.
- Gum arabic – used to add “mouthfeel” to thin, insipid wines.
- Tartaric acid or potassium bicarbonate – used to balance acid levels when nature doesn’t cooperate.
- Oak chips, staves, powders, essences – injected to mimic barrel aging without the cost or time.
What do these additives share? They mute the differences. They help standardize wines so that every bottle fits the brand’s flavor promise, regardless of vineyard or year.

Related Article: Understanding Additives in Wine: A Comprehensive Guide

Reverse Osmosis & Spinning Cone Technology

These advanced (and expensive) tools are used to:
- Remove alcohol (if it’s too high).
- Concentrate flavors (if it’s too weak).
- Adjust volatile acidity.
- Strip out flaws—but along the way, also strip out nuance.
What you’re left with is a Frankenstein wine… crafted not by the vineyard, but by a lab technician’s gentle dial-turn.

Quantity Over Quality: Who Benefits?

This isn’t an artisanal choice. It’s a business model.

Major conglomerates (you know the ones) move wine by the millions of cases. To them, consistency is the product. Terroir is the enemy. A bad weather year in Sonoma? No problem—blend in juice from Lodi or even Australia. Acid too low? Add some. Tannin too coarse? Strip it out. Consumer doesn’t like the 2020 vintage? Make it taste like the 2019.

This model rewards branding, not balance. Marketing, not mastery.

And consumers, trained to expect sameness, continue to buy the bottles they recognize.

But There Is Another Way…

The antidote is not elitism or snobbery—it’s education. We owe it to the next generation of wine lovers to show them the beauty of vintage variation, the quirks of terroir, the soulful surprise of a wine that tells the truth.

To the winemakers who listen to the land—who embrace the sun and the storms, the struggle and the soil. You bottle more than wine… you bottle truth.
Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

We should be teaching people that it’s okay for a wine to be different each year. That’s what makes wine alive.

Seek out producers who:
- Farm sustainably or biodynamically.
- Embrace vintage differences rather than hide them.
- Make transparent wine, with minimal additives.
- Are proud to tell you exactly what’s in the bottle.
Sommelier’s Tip: How to Spot a Manipulated Wine

Want to avoid mass-produced, overly manipulated wines? Here are a few sommelier-tested clues:
Too Consistent: If a wine tastes exactly the same every vintage, it’s probably blended or adjusted to meet a flavor profile—not to reflect nature.

Generic Origin: Look for vague labels like “California Red” or “American White.” These allow broad blending across states and years.

Missing Vintage or Varietal Details: No vintage? No specific vineyard or AVA? That’s usually a sign of high-volume blending.

Overly Glossy Tasting Notes: Descriptions like “smooth,” “jammy,” “silky,” and “velvety” are often marketing red flags, masking overuse of additives.

Ultra-Cheap Price with Oak Claims: If it says “barrel-aged” but costs under $10, you’re likely drinking oak flavoring—not true barrel character.

When in doubt, trust your palate—and your curiosity. If a wine tastes oddly perfect, it may just be perfectly fake.
Final Pour

Mainstream wine has become a symphony of sameness, manipulated into palatable mediocrity for profit. But wine is not meant to be the same every year. It is meant to reflect a moment in time—of weather, of soil, of sweat and struggle and sunlight. When we sterilize that, we lose the poetry of it all.

The next time you taste a wine that dares to be different, that speaks of rain in the vineyard or a scorching summer, raise your glass in gratitude.

To those who honor terroir, vintage, and the story of every vine—your work reminds us that beauty lies in honesty. Here’s to the soul of real wine. Santé! 🍷
Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM

Because that’s not just wine.

That’s truth in a bottle 🍷

Cover Image: Photo by cottonbro studio on Pexels.com
April 17, 2025
Varietal Spotlight: Pinot Noir
The Ancient and Temperamental King of Red Grapes.

Few grapes captivate the hearts of wine lovers and vintners quite like Pinot Noir. Revered for its ethereal elegance, complex flavors, and remarkable ability to reflect terroir, Pinot Noir is one of the oldest known grape varietals still cultivated today. This thin-skinned, temperamental grape has inspired obsession, frustration, and devotion in equal measure, from medieval monks in Burgundy to modern-day winemakers pushing the boundaries of its expression worldwide.

Origins and Ancient History

Pinot Noir’s history can be traced back over 2,000 years to the Roman occupation of Gaul (modern-day France).

Map of Gaul (Britannica, T. Editors of Encyclopaedia (2010, August 25). Gaul summary. Encyclopedia Britannica)

The grape likely descends from Vitis vinifera vines cultivated by the Romans and was first mentioned in historical records around the 1st century AD. However, its true prominence emerged in the Middle Ages when Cistercian and Benedictine monks meticulously cultivated vineyards in Burgundy, recognizing the grape’s unique ability to convey a sense of place. These monastic orders developed the first concept of terroir, dividing Burgundy’s vineyards into climats, which still define the region today.

The name “Pinot Noir” is derived from the French words pin (pine) and noir (black), a reference to the grape’s tightly clustered, pinecone-shaped bunches and dark skin. Despite its noble heritage, Pinot Noir’s genetic instability has led to over a thousand known clones and mutations, making it one of the most diverse grape families in viticulture.

The Many Faces of Pinot Noir

Because Pinot Noir mutates so easily, countless clones have been developed, each exhibiting distinct characteristics. Some of the most famous clones include:
- Pommard (Clone 4 & 5): Originally from Burgundy’s Pommard region, these clones produce structured, powerful wines with darker fruit flavors and firmer tannins.
- Dijon Clones (113, 115, 667, 777): Developed in Burgundy, these clones offer more refined fruit profiles, with silky textures and notes of red cherry, raspberry, and floral aromatics.
- Wädenswil (Clone 2A): Popular in Oregon, this Swiss clone thrives in cool climates and is known for its vibrant acidity and floral perfume.
- Martini Clone: A historic clone from California, this variety is known for its bright fruit flavors and early ripening qualities, particularly in Carneros and Russian River Valley.
Pinot Noir also has close relatives in the Pinot family, including Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Meunier. These varietals share the same genetic lineage but have evolved with distinct characteristics. Pinot Blanc tends to be full-bodied with crisp acidity and flavors of apple and pear, while Pinot Gris exhibits richer textures and stone fruit notes. Pinot Meunier, frequently used in Champagne blends, offers fresh fruitiness and a more rustic profile.

Alternate Names and Related Regions

Pinot Noir is known by several names in different parts of the world. Some of its alternate names include:
- Spätburgunder (Germany)
- Blauburgunder (Austria, Switzerland)
- Pinot Nero (Italy)
- Clevner (historical Alsace term)
- Pinoz (Romania)
Key regions where Pinot Noir thrives include:
- France: Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace
- United States: Oregon (Willamette Valley), California (Russian River Valley, Santa Lucia Highlands, Santa Barbara, Carneros)
- Germany: Ahr, Baden, Pfalz
- New Zealand: Central Otago, Martinborough
- Italy: Alto Adige, Oltrepò Pavese
- Switzerland: Valais, Graubünden
- Australia: Yarra Valley, Tasmania
Spätburgunder – Reinhold Möller, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Pinot Noir’s Global Expressions

Pinot Noir is often described as the most expressive varietal of terroir, meaning that it uniquely reflects the climate, soil, and winemaking techniques of its growing region. Let’s explore some of the most renowned Pinot Noir regions and their distinctive styles:

Burgundy, France: The Benchmark

Burgundy is the spiritual home of Pinot Noir, producing the world’s most revered expressions from Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. Wines from these regions exhibit remarkable complexity, finesse, and age-worthiness. Grand Cru vineyards such as Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, and Chambertin produce wines of unparalleled depth and elegance, with layers of red and black fruit, earthy undertones, and a signature minerality that evolves beautifully over time.

Oregon: The New-World Contender

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has emerged as a premier Pinot Noir-producing region, often drawing comparisons to Burgundy. The cool, maritime climate fosters wines with vibrant acidity, red fruit dominance, and floral aromatics. Winemakers here prioritize sustainable and biodynamic farming, leading to some of the most expressive and terroir-driven New World Pinot Noirs.

Related Article: Wine Experiences: A Taste of Adelsheim

California: Bold and Fruit-Driven

California’s diverse microclimates allow for multiple styles of Pinot Noir, ranging from the bright, elegant expressions of Sonoma’s Russian River Valley and Santa Lucia Highlands to the richer, more opulent styles of Santa Barbara and Carneros. Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs are known for their lush cherry and cola notes, while Santa Barbara wines often showcase baking spices and deep red fruit.

New Zealand: The Rising Star

New Zealand’s Pinot Noir, particularly from Central Otago and Martinborough, has gained international acclaim for its purity of fruit, bright acidity, and vibrant aromatics. Central Otago Pinot Noirs often exhibit dark cherry, plum, and spice notes, while Martinborough expressions lean towards a more earthy, structured profile.

Germany: The Stealthy Powerhouse

Known as Spätburgunder, German Pinot Noir has experienced a renaissance in recent years. Producers in the Ahr, Baden, and Pfalz regions are crafting elegant, cool-climate Pinot Noirs with floral aromatics, mineral-driven complexity, and refined tannins, rivaling some of the best from Burgundy.

Pouring Pinot Noir – Prayitno, USA, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Perfect Complement

Pinot Noir’s versatility makes it an excellent companion to a wide range of dishes. Its bright acidity, moderate tannins, and complex flavor profile allow it to pair beautifully with:
- Poultry: Roast duck, turkey, or chicken with herbs
- Game Meats: Venison, quail, and pheasant
- Pork: Pork tenderloin, glazed ham, or charcuterie
- Mushroom Dishes: Truffle risotto, mushroom ravioli, or wild mushroom ragout
- Salmon and Tuna: Grilled, poached, or seared preparations
- Soft Cheeses: Brie, Camembert, and Gruyère
Fun Lore and Stories of Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir has inspired countless stories, myths, and even Hollywood films. One of the most famous legends is that of the 18th-century Burgundian monk Dom Giguier, who claimed to have divine visions instructing him to cultivate Pinot Noir in specific vineyard plots (Giguier, 1763). Whether divine intervention or astute observation, these climats remain some of the most prized in the world.

In more modern times, the 2004 film Sideways sparked an explosion of Pinot Noir’s popularity in the U.S., while simultaneously tanking Merlot sales. The protagonist’s passionate monologue about the elegance and fragility of Pinot Noir led to a significant surge in demand, particularly in California and Oregon.

The Enduring Allure of Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir remains one of the most beloved and challenging varietals in the world of wine. Its delicate nature, susceptibility to disease, and finicky growing conditions make it a difficult grape to cultivate, yet its rewards are unparalleled. Whether from the legendary vineyards of Burgundy, the misty valleys of Oregon, or the sun-kissed hills of California, Pinot Noir continues to captivate winemakers and enthusiasts alike. Its ability to tell the story of its origin with elegance and nuance ensures that its legacy will endure for generations to come. Cheers 🍷

Cover Photo Credit: Jim Fischer from Portland, Oregon, USA, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

References

Giguier, D. (1763). Vineyard Cultivation and Divine Insight. Dijon, France: Burgundian Press.
February 2, 2025
The Enchanting Wines of Entré-Deux-Mers
A Hidden Gem of French Viticulture

In the illustrious tapestry of Bordeaux’s wine regions, few areas remain as underappreciated and misunderstood as Entré-Deux-Mers. Nestled between the Dordogne and Garonne rivers, this expanse of rolling hills, historic abbeys, and charming châteaux quietly produces some of the most intriguing wines in the world. Yet, it exists in the shadow of its prestigious neighbors: the Left Bank’s powerful Médoc reds and the Right Bank’s velvety Saint-Émilion and Pomerol blends (Tammy’s favorite). Entré-Deux-Mers, however, is a region of diversity, offering crisp whites, unique reds, and sweet treasures that deserve a place on your table and in your glass.

SOMM&SOMM Related Article: Old World Regions: Bordeaux

Where Monks and Merchants Shaped the Vines

The name Entré-Deux-Mers, meaning “between two seas,” might seem misleading at first glance. Rather than seas, it references the two mighty rivers that define its geography. These waterways have long been trade routes, dating back to Roman times, when wine was already a cornerstone of local commerce. During the medieval period, monks played a pivotal role in cultivating the vineyards, leaving behind a legacy of meticulous viticulture that persists to this day.

Local lore tells of wine-smuggling monks ferrying barrels of “fish wine” (a term used to describe crisp, acidic whites perfect for pairing with seafood) under the cover of night to avoid taxes imposed by Bordeaux merchants. Whether or not these tales are true, they capture the independent spirit of the region’s winemakers.

The Styles of Entré-Deux-Mers

Entré-Deux-Mers offers a spectrum of wines, from vibrant whites to robust reds and luscious sweet wines. Let’s explore these styles in greater detail.

Photo by Oleksandr P on Pexels.com

Entré-Deux-Mers Blanc

This is the hallmark wine of the region, an aromatic, crisp white blend dominated by Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle. These wines are often vinified in stainless steel to preserve their fresh, zesty character.
- Tasting Notes: Expect notes of grapefruit, green apple, and white flowers with a minerally backbone.
- Pairings: Perfect with oysters, grilled fish, goat cheese, or a fresh herbed salad.
- Recommendation: Look for Château Bonnet’s Entré-Deux-Mers Blanc, an approachable, quintessential example of the style.
Bordeaux Rouge and Bordeaux Supérieur

While not labeled as Entré-Deux-Mers, red wines from the region fall under broader Bordeaux appellations. These blends often feature Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, offering approachable and food-friendly profiles.
- Tasting Notes: Black cherry, plum, and earthy spice dominate, with soft tannins in younger wines.
- Pairings: A natural fit for roasted meats, charcuterie, or hearty stews.
- Recommendation: Seek out Château Thieuley Bordeaux Rouge for an elegant and well-structured red.
Harvesting Botrytis affected grapes at Château Dauphiné Rondillon

Sweet Wines (Loupiac, Sainte-Croix-du-Mont)

On the southern edges of Entré-Deux-Mers, the misty banks of the Garonne create the perfect conditions for noble rot, producing stunning sweet wines reminiscent of Sauternes but at a fraction of the price.
- Tasting Notes: Honeyed apricot, candied orange peel, and luscious marmalade.
- Pairings: Pair with foie gras, blue cheese, or fruit tarts.
- Recommendation: The Cuvée d’Or du Château Dauphiné Rondillon is a delightful and affordable indulgence.
Varietals and Wine Laws

Entré-Deux-Mers Blanc is governed by strict AOC rules that mandate blends of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle, though minor contributions from Ugni Blanc and Colombard are permitted. The region’s reds fall under the broader Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur classifications, which offer greater flexibility in blending.

An intriguing facet of Entré-Deux-Mers is its experimentation with lesser-known varietals like Malbec (locally called Côt) and Petit Verdot. These grapes add depth and complexity to blends, hinting at the region’s potential to craft truly distinctive wines.

Why Entré-Deux-Mers Matters

Entré-Deux-Mers represents the essence of Bordeaux: a commitment to quality, history, and innovation. Unlike the grand châteaux of the Left and Right Banks, this region’s producers often work on a smaller scale, focusing on craftsmanship rather than global acclaim. The result? Wines that overdeliver on value and character.

Fun Anecdotes and Lore

Did you know that during the Hundred Years’ War, Entré-Deux-Mers became a battleground for more than just soldiers? Vineyards were often caught in the crossfire, yet resilient locals replanted time and again, showing the enduring spirit of the region.

Bringing Entré-Deux-Mers to Your Table

If you’ve yet to explore the wines of Entré-Deux-Mers, now is the time. Whether it’s a crisp white for your next seafood feast or a luscious sweet wine to accompany dessert, this region offers something for everyone. And don’t forget the reds—they might just surprise you with their depth and versatility.

So, next time you’re perusing the Bordeaux aisle, take a chance on Entré-Deux-Mers. You might just discover a new favorite—and a story to tell with every sip. Santé 🍷

Cover Image Credit: Henry SALOMÉ, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
January 13, 2025
Understanding Additives in Wine: A Comprehensive Guide
The world of wine is as much about chemistry as it is about artistry. While the romanticized vision of winemaking involves hand-picked grapes, oak barrels, and patient aging, modern wine production often incorporates additives to enhance flavor, stabilize the wine, or address potential flaws. Here, we’ll explore common additives, their regulation, benefits, potential drawbacks, and how consumers can make informed choices about what’s in their glass.

Common Additives in Wine

SO2 Testing – Agne27, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Sulfites (SO₂)
- Purpose: Preserve freshness, prevent oxidation, and inhibit microbial growth.
- Regulation: Sulfites are strictly regulated, with limits varying by country (e.g., 350 ppm in the U.S. for dry wines).
  - United States – Sulfites in wine are regulated by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) under the Federal Alcohol Administration Act. Wines containing more than 10 parts per million (ppm) of sulfites must include a “Contains Sulfites” warning on the label. Maximum allowable sulfite levels in wine: 350 ppm.
  - Reference: TTB Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) 27, Part 4.32(e).
  - European Union (EU) – Sulfite limits vary by wine type:
    
    Red wines: 150 mg/L
    
    White/rosé wines: 200 mg/L
    
    Sweet wines: Up to 400 mg/L depending on sugar levels.
  - Reference: EU Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011 on food labeling.
- Concerns: May trigger allergic-like reactions in sensitive individuals, particularly those with asthma.
- Clarification: The vast majority of people can safely consume sulfites; reactions are rare and often confused with other sensitivities.
Tartaric Acid
- Purpose: Adjust acidity to balance the wine’s taste.
- Regulation: Considered safe and widely used in small quantities.
  - United States – Recognized as a Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) substance under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. Regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the TTB.
  - Reference: 21 CFR § 182.3311.
  - European Union – Allowed as an acidity regulator under Regulation (EC) No 1333/2008 on food additives.
- Concerns: Overuse can result in sharp, unbalanced wines.
Sugar (Chaptalization)
- Purpose: Boost alcohol content during fermentation in cool-climate wines where natural sugars may be insufficient.
- Regulation: Prohibited in some regions like California but allowed in others, such as Burgundy.
  - United States – Chaptalization is prohibited in California, Oregon, and Washington but allowed in other states under the TTB’s jurisdiction.
  - Reference: 27 CFR § 24.176.
  - European Union – Strictly regulated by the EU Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) and varies by region and wine classification. Chaptalization is generally prohibited in southern wine regions but allowed in northern areas with restrictions.
  - Reference: EU Regulation (EU) No 1308/2013.
- Concerns: Overuse can make wines taste unnaturally sweet.
Mega Purple and Coloring Agents
- Purpose: Enhance wine color for market appeal.
- Regulation: Permitted in moderation; not required to be disclosed on labels.
  - United States – Coloring agents like Mega Purple are considered GRAS substances by the FDA but are not specifically regulated under wine labeling laws unless they affect flavor or safety. Reference: Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FFDCA), 21 U.S.C. § 301 et seq.
  - European Union – Use of grape-derived concentrates like Mega Purple is permitted but must comply with general EU wine production laws.
  - Reference: Regulation (EU) No 1308/2013.
- Concerns: Overuse can mask flaws and homogenize flavor profiles.
Fining Agents (e.g., Egg Whites, Casein, Gelatin)
- Purpose: Clarify and stabilize wine by removing unwanted particles.
- Regulation: Widely accepted but must be disclosed if used in allergen-prone populations.
  - United States – Regulated by the FDA and TTB. Fining agents do not require disclosure unless they are allergenic residues (e.g., egg or milk proteins).
  - Reference: TTB Ruling 2012-1 and FDA allergen labeling rules.
  - European Union – Allergen labeling is mandatory under Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011, requiring disclosure if egg or milk residues exceed 0.25 mg/L.
- Concerns: Potential allergen risks for those sensitive to specific fining agents.
Mark Smith, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Yeast and Nutrients
- Purpose: Kickstart fermentation and enhance specific flavor profiles.
- Regulation: Approved strains are generally recognized as safe.
  - United States – The FDA regulates yeast and fermentation nutrients as GRAS substances, while the TTB oversees their application in wine production.
  - Reference: 21 CFR § 184.1983.
  - European Union – Permitted under Commission Regulation (EU) No 606/2009, specifying allowed additives in winemaking.
- Concerns: Can lead to homogenized flavor profiles in overly manipulated wines.
What Are Glyphosates?
- Definition: Glyphosate is a widely used herbicide, most commonly associated with Roundup.
- Impact on Wine: Traces of glyphosate may be found in wines due to vineyard herbicide use, sparking concerns about long-term health impacts.
- Regulation: Tightly monitored, though trace amounts have been detected in wines worldwide.
  - United States – Regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Maximum Residue Levels (MRLs) are set for glyphosate in wine grapes.
  - Reference: EPA Glyphosate Registration Review.
  - European Union – Glyphosate use is regulated under Regulation (EC) No 396/2005, establishing MRLs for pesticides in food products.
- Consumer Concerns: While levels are generally below health risk thresholds, the presence of glyphosates underscores the value of organic and biodynamic viticulture.
Additional Transparency Laws
- United States – Wine additives are not required to be disclosed on the label unless they are allergens or sulfites.
  - Reference: 27 CFR § 4.32.
- European Union – Stricter labeling requirements under Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011 ensure allergen disclosure.
The Clean Label Project
- Purpose: A nonprofit organization focused on transparency in product labeling, including food and beverage industries.
- Relevance to Wine: The project tests for contaminants like glyphosates, pesticides, and heavy metals, providing consumers with insights into wine purity.
- Impact: Encourages winemakers to adopt cleaner practices and highlights products meeting rigorous standards.
Ensuring Allergy-Safe Wines

Key Steps for Consumers
1. Read Labels: Look for organic, biodynamic, or natural wine certifications, which often indicate minimal additive use.
2. Ask Questions: Engage with retailers or sommeliers to understand production methods and ingredient transparency.
3. Use Apps: Platforms like Vivino or Delectable often provide user reviews and ingredient insights.
4. Check Certifications: Seek wines certified by third-party organizations such as Demeter (biodynamic) or USDA Organic.
Recommendations for Researching and Buying Wines
1. Organic and Biodynamic Wines: These wines minimize or eliminate synthetic additives and chemicals. Examples include Frog’s Leap (California) and Domaine Zind-Humbrecht (Alsace).
2. Low-Intervention Wines: Look for labels indicating “natural,” “minimal sulfites,” or “no added sulfites” to find wines with fewer additives.
3. Explore Local Wineries: Smaller producers often have more transparency in their winemaking processes and may use fewer additives.
4. Consult Resources: Organizations like the Clean Label Project or certifying bodies like ICEA (organic) offer helpful databases.
Final Thoughts

Wine additives are not inherently harmful, but understanding their role can help consumers make choices aligned with their health and values. By researching and supporting producers who prioritize transparency and sustainability, you can enjoy wines that not only taste great but also align with your expectations for purity and quality. Let your curiosity guide you, and remember—every bottle has a story to tell! Cheers 🍷

Image Credit: Cover Photo by Ivan Samkov on Pexels.com
January 9, 2025
Wines for Late Autumn and Early Winter
Sipping Through the Seasons–The Holidays and Beyond.

As the vibrant hues of autumn leaves fade into the frost-kissed landscapes of early winter, it’s time to embrace wines that embody the coziness of the season. From family gatherings to fireside chats, this time of year calls for rich, warming wines that bring people together. Here’s a lighthearted guide to selecting wines perfectly suited to late autumn and early winter vibes.

Photo by Taryn Elliott on Pexels.com

The Cozy Corner: Reds That Warm the Soul

The cooler months are synonymous with robust red wines that feel like a warm hug. These wines pair effortlessly with hearty dishes, wool blankets, and crackling fires.

Cabernet Sauvignon
- Perfect for: Slow-cooked roasts, braised short ribs, or a rich lasagna.
- With its bold tannins and dark fruit notes, Cabernet Sauvignon feels right at home during chilly nights. Try one from Napa Valley for a classic experience or experiment with South American options for an earthy twist.
Syrah/Shiraz
- Perfect for: Grilled lamb, smoked brisket, or venison stew.
- Bursting with black pepper, plum, and smoky undertones, Syrah matches the rugged charm of late autumn.
Zinfandel
- Perfect for: BBQ meats, spicy chili, or glazed ham.
- Its jammy fruit flavors and spicy kick make Zinfandel a crowd-pleaser for festive gatherings.
No machine-readable author provided. Hoffkar assumed (based on copyright claims)., CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Florida’s Early Winter: Tropical Hints with Holiday Cheer

For those basking in the mild 70°F “winters” of Florida (or similar climates), lighter wines with tropical vibes but seasonal depth strike the right balance.

Viognier
- Perfect for: Shrimp scampi, citrus-glazed chicken, or mango salsa.
- This aromatic white wine bridges the gap between summery zest and cozy richness, perfect for coastal holiday parties.
Chenin Blanc
- Perfect for: A poolside turkey sandwich or a festive charcuterie board.
- Opt for a South African Chenin Blanc for a slightly off-dry profile that suits Florida’s seasonal flair.
Light Pinot Noir
- Perfect for: Cedar-plank salmon or grilled turkey legs.
- Bright red fruit with a touch of spice makes Pinot Noir versatile enough for Florida’s unique winter vibe.
Fireside Chats & Relaxed Evenings: The Best Sippers

Nothing beats a glass of something special when unwinding by the fire. Here are top picks for contemplative sipping:

Port – Rich, sweet, and warming, a ruby or tawny Port is the ultimate fireside companion. Pair it with blue cheese or toasted nuts for a cozy treat.

Madeira – With its caramelized nuttiness, Madeira feels luxurious. Opt for a medium-sweet Bual style, paired with roasted chestnuts or gingerbread cookies.

Amarone della Valpolicella – This velvety Italian red has dried fruit flavors and a hint of cocoa, making it an indulgent pairing for dark chocolate or aged Parmesan.

Family Gatherings: Classic Pairings for Festive Feasts

Holiday tables brimming with traditional dishes demand wines that enhance the flavors without overpowering them.

Turkey and Trimmings
- Go for a Chardonnay (try a buttery Sonoma option) or Riesling (a semi-dry German Riesling for balance).
- For reds, a Beaujolais Cru or Pinot Noir adds enough complexity without stealing the spotlight.
Ham or Pork Roast
- A fruity Grenache or a full-bodied Malbec pairs beautifully with the sweet and savory nature of ham.
- For whites, try a bold Gewürztraminer, especially if there’s a honey glaze involved.
Vegetarian Delights
- Mushroom dishes and roasted root vegetables pair exquisitely with Barbera or Tempranillo.
- For whites, a nutty Roussanne or White Burgundy elevates earthy flavors.
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Seasonal Activities & Their Perfect Pairings

Every seasonal pastime has a wine that fits like a glove. Here’s a list to inspire your next bottle:
- Tree Trimming: Prosecco or Cava. Light, fizzy, and celebratory, these sparkling wines keep spirits bright.
- Pumpkin Pie Baking: Moscato d’Asti. Its sweetness and citrusy zing make pie-prepping festive.
- Holiday Movie Marathons: Mulled wine or a spiced Glühwein. Curl up with a steaming mug of wine infused with cinnamon, cloves, and orange zest.
Choose What Feels Right

Whether you’re embracing early winter in Florida with a chilled Chenin Blanc or braving the Northeast cold with a bold Cabernet Sauvignon, the season is about warmth, comfort, and connection. Raise a glass to the season’s charm, and remember: the best wine is the one you enjoy most with the people you love. Cheers! 🥂

Cover Photo Credit: Reinhold Möller, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
December 2, 2024