In the realm of oenology, the path to becoming a wine professional is as complex and diverse as the flavors and aromas found within a fine Bordeaux. It’s a journey that requires not only a refined palate but also a deep understanding of numerous academic disciplines. From history to geography, geology to viticulture, and beyond, the pursuit of wine expertise is a multifaceted odyssey that demands dedication, curiosity, and a voracious appetite for knowledge.
Embark on your own journey to becoming more knowledgable about wine… You’ll be glad you did!
At the heart of any wine professional’s education lies an appreciation for history. Understanding the rich tapestry of wine’s past is essential for contextualizing its present and forecasting its future. From the ancient vineyards of Mesopotamia to the illustrious estates of Bordeaux, the story of wine is woven into the fabric of human civilization. By delving into historical texts, archival records, and archaeological findings, aspiring sommeliers gain insights into the evolution of winemaking techniques, the rise and fall of wine empires, and the cultural significance of wine throughout the ages.
Geography serves as another cornerstone of wine education. A deep understanding of the world’s wine regions, their climates, soils, and topographies, is crucial for comprehending the diverse array of wines produced across the globe. Whether it’s the chalky hillsides of Champagne, the sun-drenched vineyards of Napa Valley, or the rugged terrain of the Douro Valley, each winegrowing region imparts its unique terroir onto the grapes, influencing the character and quality of the wines produced.
Schist soils in the Langedoc AOPUnique soils of the Roussillon region
Geology also plays a pivotal role in the study of wine. By examining the geological composition of vineyard soils, wine professionals can discern how different mineral deposits affect grapevine growth and wine flavor profiles. From limestone to granite, schist to volcanic ash, the geological diversity of wine regions contributes to the complexity and nuance of the wines they produce.
Viticulture and viniculture, the sciences of grape growing and winemaking, respectively, provide the technical foundation upon which wine professionals build their expertise. From vineyard management practices to cellar techniques, mastering these disciplines requires hands-on experience, as well as a thorough understanding of plant biology, microbiology, chemistry, and fermentation processes.
In addition to these core disciplines, the study of wine often extends to encompass spirits, beer, and sake. Organizations like The Court of Master Sommeliers recognize the interconnectedness of these libations and require candidates to demonstrate proficiency across a spectrum of alcoholic beverages. Whether it’s discerning the nuances of single malt Scotch whisky, exploring the complexities of Belgian Trappist ales, or understanding the craftsmanship behind Japanese sake, a well-rounded wine professional must possess a broad knowledge base that extends beyond the grapevine.
In the infinite depths of the vineyard, the pursuit of wine knowledge is a journey without end, where every sip uncovers a new chapter in the timeless story of taste and appreciation.
Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM
During intense wine-study sessions and exams, aspiring sommeliers are challenged to draw upon the breadth and depth of their academic pursuits. They must identify wines blind, articulate tasting notes with precision, and navigate the intricacies of food and wine pairing with finesse. From memorizing wine lists to mastering the art of service, the demands placed upon wine professionals are as rigorous as they are rewarding.
The Court of Master Sommeliers, Wine & Spirit Trust (WSET), and the Society of Wine Educators all provide training and certifications in wine knowledge, service, and education. While each program offers their own learning paths and methodology towards tasting and evaluation, make no mistake–it takes a commitment to learning to succeed. Each level becomes more difficult, but it is worth the effort 😉
The journey to becoming a wine professional is a holistic endeavor that encompasses a diverse array of academic disciplines. From history and geography to geology, viticulture, and viniculture, each facet of wine education contributes to a deeper understanding of this timeless elixir. By embracing the complexity of wine and committing to a lifelong pursuit of knowledge, aspiring sommeliers can embark on a transformative journey that will enrich both their palates and their lives. Cheers to the passionate pursuit of wine excellence! 🍷
As autumn settles in and leaves begin to paint the landscape with warm hues, wine enthusiasts around the world eagerly await the arrival of a special seasonal favorite—Beaujolais Nouveau. This vibrant and fruity red wine, released just weeks after the grape harvest, has become a symbol of celebration and conviviality. As a wine educator, I am excited to delve into the nuances of Beaujolais Nouveau, exploring its origins, characteristics, and the cultural significance that surrounds its annual release.
Beaujolais Nouveau finds its roots in the Beaujolais region of France, nestled between Burgundy and the Rhône Valley. The story begins with a tradition known as “Beaujolais Day,” a celebration that dates back to the early 20th century. The local winemakers, eager to share their newly harvested wines, would race to bring the first bottles of Beaujolais to the market. Over time, this lively tradition evolved into a global phenomenon.
The practice of producing Beaujolais Nouveau officially started in the 1950s, thanks to the marketing genius of Georges Duboeuf, a visionary winemaker. Recognizing the potential of the young, fruity wine, Duboeuf seized the opportunity to promote it as a festive and convivial beverage. The release date was set to the third Thursday of November, creating an annual wine event that captures the imagination of wine enthusiasts worldwide.
The Beauty of Carbonic Maceration
What sets Beaujolais Nouveau apart from other red wines is its unique winemaking process, known as carbonic maceration. This technique involves fermenting whole grapes in a carbon dioxide-rich environment before crushing them. This process emphasizes the fruity and aromatic qualities of the Gamay grape, the star of Beaujolais wines.
The result is a wine that is light, fresh, and brimming with red fruit flavors such as cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. The absence of harsh tannins makes Beaujolais Nouveau exceptionally approachable, even for those who may not typically gravitate towards red wines.
A Symphony of Fruitiness
When exploring Beaujolais Nouveau, one is immediately struck by its vivacious and youthful character. The wine typically exhibits a brilliant, ruby-red hue that hints at the explosion of fruit flavors within. On the nose, one can detect a medley of red berries, accompanied by floral notes that add a layer of complexity.
On the palate, Beaujolais Nouveau dances with bright acidity, making it a refreshing and versatile wine. The fruity profile is complemented by a subtle spiciness, creating a harmonious balance that lingers in the finish. It’s a wine meant to be enjoyed in its exuberant youthfulness, best consumed within the first few months of release.
Pairing Beaujolais Nouveau
One of the joys of Beaujolais Nouveau is its versatility when it comes to food pairings. Its light body and vibrant acidity make it an excellent companion for a variety of dishes. Consider pairing it with classic French fare such as coq au vin or a plate of charcuterie. The wine’s fruity profile also makes it an ideal match for Thanksgiving dinner, complementing the array of flavors on the holiday table.
For those with a sweet tooth, Beaujolais Nouveau can be a surprising ally. Its fruit-forward nature makes it a delightful pairing with fruity desserts, such as a berry tart or poached pears.
The release of Beaujolais Nouveau has transcended its French origins and become a global celebration of wine and camaraderie. Wine lovers around the world eagerly anticipate the third Thursday of November, marking the official release date. Festivals, parties, and special events unfold as enthusiasts raise their glasses to toast the arrival of this unique and ephemeral wine.
Beaujolais Nouveau has become more than just a beverage; it’s a symbol of conviviality, tradition, and the joy of sharing. Winemakers, distributors, and consumers alike partake in the annual ritual, creating a sense of connection that transcends borders and cultures.
Embracing the Beaujolais Nouveau Tradition
I encourage enthusiasts to embrace the magic of Beaujolais Nouveau. Its lively and approachable nature, coupled with the rich history and cultural significance, makes it a wine worth savoring. Whether enjoyed at a festive gathering, a cozy dinner, or simply as a delightful accompaniment to the changing seasons, Beaujolais Nouveau captures the essence of celebration in a bottle. So, as the third Thursday of November passes by, let us raise our glasses to this special season favorite and the traditions that make the world of wine so enchanting.
On October 28, 2023, an enchanting event unfolded in a private suite at Disney’s Riviera Resort, a night that will be fondly remembered by those lucky enough to attend. It marked the 35th Wedding Anniversary of Scott and Alison White, a couple known for their love of fine wine and fine company. Although their actual anniversary date was October 30th, they thoughtfully planned this special celebration a few days in advance to accommodate their dear friends and family with busy schedules. It turned out to be a decision that would create an unforgettable evening filled with elegance, exceptional wine, and camaraderie.
Place setting for the Chateau Montelena Penta-deca-vertical
The centerpiece of the evening was a Chateau Montelena themed 5-course wine dinner featuring five decades of the legendary Cabernet Sauvignon wines of Chateau Montelena: 1978, 1988, 1998, 2008, and 2018. As each guest arrived, they were greeted with a glass of the 2020 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, a delightful prelude to the remarkable evening that awaited them. The bright and beautifully floral wine flowed as guests mingled, setting the stage for a night of memorable moments.
Gregory Dean (SOMM&SOMM) and Chris Grossman, CSW (Chateau Montelena)
The uniqueness of this event became apparent when all five different Cabernet Sauvignons were poured at the beginning of the meal. This format allowed every vintage to be compared with all five courses. To enhance the experience and create a lasting memory, special tasting mats were thoughtfully provided for the 32 guests, inviting them to take notes and record their journey through these remarkable wines.
Our ties may not be by blood, but they’re definitely by bottle… and I dare say, that’s even stronger!
Gregory Dean
Adding an extra layer of enchantment to the evening, Chris Grossman, a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) from Chateau Montelena, was in attendance as the special guest. His presence was akin to having the gatekeeper of a vinous treasure trove share the secrets and stories behind each bottle. Chris regaled the guests with detailed information about each wine, unveiling the history and the little-known tales of the fabled Chateau Montelena. His insights and storytelling elevated the entire experience, making it all the more special.
Chris Grossman, CSW – Chateau Montelena
As for the culinary side of the evening, the menu was meticulously curated, offering a perfect marriage of flavors with the exceptional wines:
Beets Three Ways: The evening commenced with a dish that celebrated the versatility of beets, prepared three ways and complemented by fine herbs and red wine vinaigrette.
Roasted Butternut Squash Soup: The second course brought to the table a velvety roasted butternut squash soup, adorned with pepitas and pomegranate seeds.
Char-Crusted Swordfish: The third course introduced char-crusted swordfish, accompanied by creamed leeks and a cabernet reduction.
Cabernet-Braised Short Rib: The fourth course featured tender cabernet-braised short ribs, served with red wine-braised onions and polenta.
Reverse-Seared Ribeye: The grand finale was a succulent reverse-seared ribeye, presented with smoked gouda mac & cheese, charred Brussels sprouts, and a tantalizing blackberry sauce.
As the evening progressed, there was no shortage of opinions and expressions of how each wine paired with every dish. In fact, there were eight (8) sommeliers among the thirty-two (32) total guests. This created an atmosphere of wine knowledge euphoria 😉 With the penta-deca-vertical (a Scott White coined phrase) poured, each course was meticulously prepared and served. Here is my summary of how these wines paired with the dishes:
Beets Three Ways – The older, softer wines (1978 and 1988) were my favorite wines for this dish. The 1998 with the golden beets in this dish were definitely a favorite.
The 1978 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine matured with time, gracefully complemented the “Beets Three Ways.” Its aged elegance showcased a symphony of flavors with subtle hints of blackberries, dried herbs, and a delicate touch of leather. This wine lent a refined depth to the dish. The earthy beets in their various preparations resonated with the wine’s complex character, creating a harmonious balance between sweet and savory, which was a testament to the beauty of well-aged Cabernet Sauvignon.
The 1988 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, known for its rich dark fruit flavors and velvety texture, engaged in a delightful dance with the “Beets Three Ways.” The wine’s fruity undertones accentuated the natural sweetness of the beets while its tobacco notes offered a contrasting depth. This pairing brought out the best in both wine and dish, creating a symphony of flavors where the earthy and peppery aspects of the beets were beautifully elevated by the wine’s round finish.
Roasted Butternut Squash Soup – This dish was earthy and rustic, so the older vintages seemed to be a natural fit. My favorite, however, was the 1998 with this particular dish.
The 1998 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, characterized by dark plum, tobacco, and cedar, offered a captivating interplay with the Roasted Butternut Squash Soup. The wine’s firm tannins and depth created a delightful contrast to the soup’s creaminess. The wine’s dark fruit elements harmonized with the soup’s sweetness, while its structural integrity accentuated the dish’s complexity. This pairing celebrated the diverse characteristics of both the wine and the cuisine, creating an engaging and rich experience.
Char-Crusted Swordfish – This dish was diverse enough to work well alongside any of the vintages. At one point I witnessed a guest enjoying this dish with the 2020 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 😉 It’s this very reason that I leaned into a contrasting pairing as opposed to the classic complementing approach.
The 2008 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, recognized for its balanced blackberry, cassis, and hints of eucalyptus, offered a refreshing twist to the Char Crust Swordfish. The wine’s depth and the hints of eucalyptus provided a unique contrast to the dish. The wine’s dark fruit flavors harmonized with the swordfish’s flavors, while its structural integrity accentuated the overall complexity of the dish. This pairing showcased the wine’s ability to provide a dynamic and revitalizing counterpoint to seafood.
Cabernet-Braised Short Rib – This savory dish required a wine with pronounced fruit, body, and bolder tannins. The 2018 was a perfect fit!
The 2018 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, the most recent vintage, unveiled bold blackberry, currant, and dark chocolate notes, creating an opulent and luxurious pairing with the Cabernet-braised Short Rib. The wine’s dark fruit and chocolate undertones beautifully complemented the richness of the short rib, enhancing the overall experience. The red wine-braised onions and polenta found a luxurious partner in this vintage, creating a grand and flavorful conclusion to the dish. This pairing set a decadent tone for the rest of the wine dinner, emphasizing the wine’s versatility and its ability to elevate classic comfort food to new heights.
Reverse-Seared Ribeye – The final dish in the 5-course pairing would have easily stood up to any of the vintages in our penta-deca-vertical. My preference, however, was the 1978 vintage.
The 1978 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, with its well-aged complexity, presented a captivating contrast to the Reverse-seared Ribeye. This vintage’s notes of blackberries, dried herbs, and subtle leather added depth and sophistication to the rich, succulent ribeye. The wine’s smooth tannins and long finish created an elegant harmony with the dish, bringing out the ribeye’s bold flavors and creating a luxurious and timeless pairing.
Just when the evening couldn’t possibly get better… dessert was served! It was a melody of sweet classics–including creme brûlée (a personal favorite). These dessert dishes were served to enjoy alongside a luscious Chateau Montelena Late Harvest and Chateau Montelena Ruby-style Port (very exclusive).
Chef Jose preparing Creme Brûlée
We could not have scripted a better evening with a better group of friends. Thanks Scott and Alison for the friendship and shared love of food and wine.
…So raise your glasses, give a hearty cheer, To Scott and Alison, who’ve persevered; Through all the years, come what may, Here’s to more laughter, on this special day!
From the 35th Anniversary Toast – Gregory Dean
A few memories captured by Erin Toung. Thanks, Erin, for the wonderful photos 😉
In the illustrious world of fine wines, few names evoke as much reverence and admiration as Chateau Margaux (my favorite first growth). Nestled in the heart of Bordeaux’s famed Margaux appellation, this historic estate has consistently produced wines of unparalleled grace and distinction. Among the numerous exceptional vintages that have emerged from its cellars, the 1977 Chateau Margaux stands as a shining example of Bordeaux’s timeless elegance and the estate’s unwavering commitment to excellence.
During a routine gathering of five wine-loving couples–appropriately named Club 10–one particular label stood out. While it isn’t unusual for wine-enthusiasts Brian and Erin Toung to share rare and unusual wines from their extensive collection, we knew right away that this night was going to be special. All of the wines were spectacular, and the 1977 Chateau Margaux provided by the Brian and Erin Toung lived up its reputation.
Club 10 – August 18, 2023 at the home of Mike and Patti Weber
History of Chateau Margaux
Chateau Margaux’s legacy dates back to the 12th century when the property was first cultivated as a vineyard. However, it wasn’t until the 17th century that it began to gain prominence under the ownership of the Marquise de la Colonilla. Under her careful stewardship, Chateau Margaux rose to prominence, earning the moniker “The Pearl of Bordeaux.”
Throughout its storied history, the estate has changed hands several times but always maintained its reputation for producing some of the world’s finest wines. The modern era ushered in a new era of precision winemaking under the guidance of André Mentzelopoulos, and later, his daughter Corinne Mentzelopoulos, who continues to oversee the estate today.
The 1977 Vintage: A Snapshot in Time
The 1977 Chateau Margaux vintage occupies a unique place in the estate’s annals. While not as legendary as some of the earlier vintages, such as the 1961 or the 1982, it remains a fascinating chapter in Chateau Margaux’s history. This vintage was marked by a temperate growing season with a mild summer, resulting in wines that exhibit a graceful finesse rather than raw power.
Tasting Notes from a Sommelier’s Perspective
The cork quickly disintegrated during several attempts to release it from its stable home of 46 years. After a slow ritual-like decanting, it was time to indulge 😉
Aroma: Upon pouring a glass of the 1977 Chateau Margaux, I was immediately greeted by a symphony of aromas. Delicate notes of dried flowers, violet, and rose petals danced alongside more profound scents of blackcurrant, plum, and cherry. The bouquet was enchanting and seductive, showcasing the wine’s maturity with grace.
Palate: On the palate, the wine continued to captivate with its finesse. The tannins had softened over the years, providing a silky texture that caressed the tongue. While the fruit had mellowed, it remained vibrant, revealing flavors of blackberry, cedar, tobacco, and subtle hints of leather. There was a lovely balance between the fruit and tertiary notes, making it a delight to savor.
Structure: The 1977 Chateau Margaux maintained an impeccable structure. It had a medium body with a long, elegant finish that leaves a trail of subtle spices and a touch of minerality. The wine’s acidity was still remarkably fresh, providing a sense of vitality that belies its age.
Pairing: This vintage calls for equally refined and nuanced cuisine. It paired perfectly with the French-inspired dishes meticulously prepared by our Club 10 hosts, Mike and Patti Weber. The wine’s elegance and complexity complemented these dishes beautifully.
An Experience Like No Other
The 1977 Chateau Margaux is a testament to the timeless allure of Bordeaux’s Margaux appellation and the unwavering commitment to quality at Chateau Margaux. While it may not be the most famous vintage from this legendary estate, it offed a unique opportunity to experience the grace and finesse that have made Chateau Margaux a household name among wine connoisseurs. With its mature aromas, silky palate, and impeccable structure, the 1977 Chateau Margaux continues to captivate the senses and remind us of the enduring excellence that defines this historic winery. Thanks Brian and Erin!
Sometimes you’re fortunate enough to experience the perfect balance of fantastic food, awesome drinks, impeccable service and amazing atmosphere–all in the same meal. That was certainly the case at our 40th Anniversary celebration week kickoff lunch in Las Vegas. It has become an annual tradition to begin the week’s festivities at Nine Fine Irishmen in the New York New York Las Vegas Resort and Casino. After several flights and a long layover, we were ready for some cold beer and pub food… Irish-style!
We prefer OpenTable for making reservations. I specifically like adding information describing the purpose of our visit (i.e. birthday, anniversary, …) and preferred seating (i.e. the DraftMaster table). Most restaurants skim this information and perhaps make mention of a special event, but Nine Fine Irishmen used the information to create an experience.
DraftMaster Table at Nine Fine Irishmen (Disclaimer: This table was not available during our visit)
Mike, Patti, Tammy and I started our lunch with the traditional Beer and Cheese Dip and Fried Sausages. Of course no pub appetizer is complete without a cold draft beer, and there was no shortage of options. From the classics like Guinness, Harp, Bass and Smithwick’s to all the usual domestics… we were in for a treat. The service was over the top. Our glasses were never empty, and the server was fun and engaging.
Part way through the main course(s) we were approached by the manager. And while this isn’t (and shouldn’t be) unusual, what happened next was memorable. Anthony Longenbach, Restaurant General Manager at MGM Resorts International – Nine Fine Irishmen, stopped by to wish us a very happy 40th Anniversary. Prior to our arrival, he made it a point to read the notes and comments I posted on the OpenTable reservation. He knew this was the traditional first stop of the week.
A few minutes later, Mr. Longenbach returned to the table with a special surprise–bourbon. He said he wanted to share their signature MGM bourbon with the “Bourbon Girl.” He poured four glasses… neat… and we toasted our 40th Anniversary, Nine Fine Irishmen, and the week to come. It was a great experience. Their attention to detail and customer-centric approach is why Nine Fine Irishmen has earned a loyal following. This venue gets top marks for quality, service, ambience and consistency.
Thanks again Anthony… we’ll see you and the Nine Fine Irishmen team next year!
We’ve all spent many hours reading scores and reviews from some of the most well-respected wine aficionados in the world. In most cases, we align our tastes with the palette of one of these professional wine critics. I tend to lean more towards the tastes of Robert Parker than James Suckling, but both provide a peek into the characteristics and profile of even the most obscure wines.
There is no escaping the fact that a high score from one of the well-known critics will almost always boost demand. Personally, I have been known to seek out wines that have achieved a perfect score from either Robert Parker or James Suckling. Even before opening these wines, my expectations have been set. The wine should be incredible–almost life-changing. I don’t always agree with the ratings, but these scores have definitely had an impact on which wines I buy and which wines I avoid.
Tammy and I have decided to share our wine-centric wit and wisdom by introducing a new series–The Deans’ List. Before you English majors begin the barrage of comments, let me defend the plural possessive proper noun 😉 Our last name is Dean. Together, we are the Deans (plural). Our list of wines and evaluations–resulting from the SOMM&SOMM profile and analysis–is accurately named The Deans’ List (plural possessive). It also doesn’t hurt to have a natural play on a phrase associated with academic achievement.
Unlike the academic list… wines added to the SOMM&SOMM Deans’ List will include a Grape Point Average (GPA) based on the SOMM&SOMM approach to evaluating wines. Our methodology includes metrics important to consumers–such as pair-ability and share-ability. We are always interested in classic food and wine pairings, and will continue to expand on these ideas in our Perfect Pairings series. Other measurements–such as Old World or New World Characteristics, Effects of Climate, Effects of Geography and more–will provide a different (and hopefully useful) perspective into these wines.
Great wine isn’t cheap, and cheap wine can be good but rarely great 😉
-Gregory Dean 2021
Recognizing the fact that any given varietal can produce countless variations and seemingly endless styles, we think it’s important to rate wines on (1) how well they represent (e.g. stay true to) their terroir, (2) the balance and complexity, (3) the approachability and versatility, and (4) the overall value. You know… the stuff important to consumers. Great wine isn’t cheap, and cheap wine can be good but rarely great 😉 We hope to uncover some of these hidden gems.
Sample SOMM&SOMM Summary Card (not an actual evaluation)
Most of us naturally evaluate wine every time it hits our glass. It can be difficult, however, to evaluate wine objectively. Just because it’s not my favorite doesn’t mean it’s not a good representation of wines of the same style from the same region. The summary card for each wine provides a quick glance at all the usual characteristics plus an overlay of the average (typical) characteristics.
As part of our evaluation process, we will include details with recommendations for pairing and sharing. Our wine evaluation and overall analysis will ultimately lead to a Grape Point Average (GPA). A 4.0 Grape Point Average is the highest possible score, and reserved for wines that best represent wines of the same varietal, region, and style.
Be sure to subscribe to this blog and be the first to receive notifications when new wines are added to the SOMM&SOMM Deans’ List 😉
When people gather for wine-centric events, opinions flow as freely as the wine. It wouldn’t be educational if it weren’t for the lively debates. Imagine, however, an event specifically designed to spark a plethora of opinions over a specific varietal. In this case, it was the inaugural release of The Debate–Cabernet Franc. This 2016 collection of wines from Napa represent the best this region has to offer. And as intended… fueled plenty of debate 😉
Our good friends, Mike and Patti, hosted the evening. We were joined by other wine enthusiasts and good friends, Dima and Oksana, to round out our panel of opinionists (yes… I know that’s not a word).
Mike and Patti’s beautiful setup for our evening of The Debate – Cabernet Franc 2016
We began the evening with a Champagne toast while Mike explained the philosophy behind The Debate. As he went into detail surrounding the vision of Jean Hoefliger and Rob McKay, I began to appreciate the true uniqueness of this experience. These wines are very exclusive. In fact, only 80 cases of the 2016 Cabernet Franc in this horizontal tasting were produced. A single varietal, a single vintage, three reputable Napa Valley vineyards. A true indisputable horizontal tasting.
The dialog continued as anticipation was building for this epic tasting. The appetizers, we later find out are ‘pre-appetizers,’ were awesome 😉 Patti created an array of dishes–including chorizo meatballs, French onion tart, crostini made with pate and cherry preserves, and spinach-stuffed mushrooms (to name a few). The cheese and charcuterie board was over the top.
After several more minutes of lively discussion about what was to come, we moved to the special table. It was completely set up for this tasting. In addition to the informative placemats describing the vineyards, and scoresheets to document every aspect of these wines, there were four (4) mini carafes of wine at each setting. As it turns out… the fourth carafe contains a special surprise. More on this later.
You could say that we are all equally eristic!
-Gregory Dean
Each bottle was wrapped in paper printed with politics, sports and pop-culture headlines from 2016. The idea, of course, is to offer topics for debate.
While there is no shortage of opinions on any of these topics, this group loves to debate (compare and contrast) wine. You could say that we are all equally eristic! I mean this with the utmost respect for our opinionated wine-loving circle of friends 😉
Although from three different vineyards, all three wines in the 2016 The Debate – Cabernet Franc collection followed identical vinification processes. Each wine is 100% barrel fermented for 27 days on skins. The wines were aged for 23 months in 100% French oak (70% new). Terroir is the only difference in these wines, giving way to a true and uninhibited comparison of soil, climate, aspect (orientation of the vineyard), and farming practices affect on wine.
The Vineyards
Bettinelli’s Sleeping Lady Vineyard is where the grapes in our first wine were grown. This vineyard in west Yountville is named for the distinct foothills behind the property, which looks like a woman laying on her side. Known mostly for elegant, feminine Cabernet Sauvignon, Bettinelli’s Sleeping Lady Vineyard provides the perfect terroir to produce a The Debate-worthy Cabernet Franc.
Yountville is one of five distinctive towns in Napa Valley (not to be confused by regions). These towns include the city of Napa, Yountville, American Canyon, St. Helena, and Calistoga. Yountville is located in the heart of Napa Valley, and boasts some of the best restaurants around–such as The French Laundry. Yes, please 😉 The 46-acre Sleeping Lady Vineyard is located at the southwest boundary of the Yountville AVA.
The summer months in Yountville (an important time for grape growing) may reach peak temperatures of 90°F (31°C). In contrast, the night-time lows average in the mid-50°F (13°C). Rainfall averages 32 inches annually. And the elevation ranges between 20 and 200 feet above sea level. I often say that 80% of the wines we drink are from 20 varietals. This region produces 14 of them. The Sleeping Lady Cabernet Franc comes from vines grown at southern tip of the Yountville foothills in the alluvial Mayacamas Bench.
Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard was the second wine in our lineup. This Oakville appellation vineyard is known for growing grapes used in producing ultra-high-end Cabernet Sauvignon wines–such as the 100 point 2018 Alpha Omega. The 83 acre vineyard of Beckstoffer To Kalon is planted with two varietals–Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Only 10% of the grapes grown are Cabernet Franc, so this wine is extra special.
Oakville is just south of Rutherford and is my personal favorite Napa Valley appellation. It is, after all, the home of Far Niente, Nickel & Nickel, Silver Oak, Robert Mondavi, and Opus One to name a few. We all know that geography affects agriculture. From the valley floor to the mountainsides, this region boasts a wide range of terroir.
The majority of To Kalon is owned by Mondavi (450 acres). Opus One owns 100 acres. The University of California at Davis owns 20 acres. Beckstoffer Vineyards owns 90 acres. So, as you can see… these grapes are in good company. Some would consider To Kalon one of the ‘Grand Cru’ sites of Napa Valley. I would agree 😉
Constellation (which bought Mondavi in 2004) owns the very controversial trademark ‘To Kalon’ awarded to Mondavi in 1988. Over the years, several lawsuits have ensued for the rights of others to use the name of the very land they own on labels. Roughly a decade ago, Andy Beckstoffer was awarded the right for their clients to use the Beckstoffer To Kalon name. Paul Hobbs Beckstoffer To Kalon, at a humbling $549 per bottle, uses grapes from the Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard.
Nested at the edge of the Mayacamas Mountains, To Kalon receives the perfect amount of morning fog and full day sun to produce some of the undisputedly best grapes in the world.
Stagecoach Vineyard was third in the lineup. The rocky, volcanic terroir of this vineyard provides a very distinct contrast to the other vineyards in this tasting. Specifically, Stagecoach Vineyard has the cooling breezes of San Pablo Bay, a higher elevation (1,200 to 1,750 feet above sea level), and deep water sources beneath the vineyard to create the perfect terroir for some of the best fruit in Napa Valley.
Some of the most reputable wineries in Napa Valley source fruit from Stagecoach Vineyard. Well known wineries like Chateau Montelena and Quintessa, for example, have used grapes from Stagecoach Vineyard for decades. In 2017, E & J Gallo Winery purchased the 1,300 acre property for a reported $180 million dollars. The The climate across the vast 600+ acres of vineyards ranges from cool maritime of the Prichard Hill area to the less maritime climate of the Atlas Peak section.
Our Debate
The first wine was no sooner in the glass than we were treated with a special appetizer. Patti created a coconut-infused rice dish topped with scallops. Perfect! Mike continued to explain the intricacies of The Debate. Soon all three glasses contained the appropriate wines, and the sniff, swirl and sip process had begun.
All three wines were vibrantly colored with similar dark purple hues. The rim variations were predictably identical (same vintage). The rim colors, however, were the first sign of distinction between these wines. The terroir certainly influenced each wines unique rim colors. The Stagecoach Cabernet Franc had a bright pink outer rim reminiscent of a young Malbec wine. The Sleeping Lady Cabernet Franc rim color was a more subdued mauve, and the Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Franc was a bright violet color.
At first, the nose on the Sleeping Lady seemed subtle. Perhaps I was overtaken by all of the amazing aromas in the room. But once my olfactory senses recalibrated, I was able to pick up all of the aromatics of these wines. The Sleeping Lady had an earthy quality. I was picking up some forest floor notes alongside intense red fruit. Specifically, raspberry. As a general rule, I prefer to perform the single step on all three before moving to the next step. (i.e. swirl, swirl, swirl… sniff, sniff, sniff… taste, taste, taste) 😉
The Beckstoffer To Kalon jumped out of the glass. There was nothing held back. I was getting black fruit on the nose (blackberry), in concert with slate and wet trees. There were a few middle eastern spices trying to breakthrough. I thought the Stagecoach had several characteristics of the other two with the addition of herbs and figs. All three wines had very little alcohol burn on the nose. It was time for my favorite part of a wine tasting… tasting the wine!
During the first two steps in this process, several debates sparked. And while the tech notes for each wine was the silent referee, none of us were in 100% agreement with the winemakers analysis. This isn’t unusual. Especially for this group 😉
Just before we started tasting these amazing wines, Mike and Patti plated and served a feast of the senses. Prime rib, smashed potatoes, and grilled vegetables were served as the main course to pair with The Debate. This was awesome, and the timing was perfect. We were now able to compare and contrast these wines with and without food… fueling even more debate.
The first pass through the wine flight was intended to compare (and debate) each wine as a stand-alone experience. The Sleeping Lady was very well balanced with the right amount of acid, fruit, and tannin. It did have an interesting floral finish. There was a peculiar yet familiar characteristic Dima described as wet soil (I think), but not barnyard. Regardless, it was a very good wine with a lot of intense flavors. I thought this wine had a bitter finish that eventually faded. There was no bitterness when paired with the prime rib. Yum!
The Beckstoffer To Kalon seemed to be the most charismatic of the three. This, of course, was up for debate. The flavors and overall complexity of this wine were not immediately apparent. It burst with expression after a second or two on the palate. But when it did, the Beckstoffer To Kalon was a tapestry of dark fruit and spice. I absolutely loved this wine 😉 By this time we were testing the true diversity of these wines by revisiting Patti’s cheese and charcuterie plate. Roquefort blue cheese and the Beckstoffer To Kalon was a hit.
The Stagecoach wine was similar to the Sleeping Lady (in my opinion). It was very well balanced, but quite a bit more intense. It may have been the one closest to a Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. I believe the delicate nature of these wines, especially Stagecoach, create an opportunity for the fruits, herbs and earthiness to coexist. Black fruit dominated at first, then an rustic iron ore flavor started to come through. The Cabernet Franc is a thin-skinned grape resulting in wines with mellow tannins. This wine had more presence on the palette than expected from a higher-altitude wine (1500 ft).
I didn’t detect any pyrazinic characteristics (bell pepper, herbaceous, tomato vines) in the nose present in many in a Cabernet Franc wines. I also missed the typical red fruit aromas (cherry, strawberry). Mike and Patti’s choice of food to serve alongside this epic tasting was spot-on. The wines took on new personalities with each pairing. Certainly giving way for more discussion and debate.
Coup de Grace
The Debate to end all debates happened to be sitting in the fourth carafe the entire evening. Mike revealed The Ultimate Debate Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 as the final wine in our structured and extremely well organized tasting. This wine is without question in a completely different class. While it is, in fact, a blend of The Debate Cabernet Sauvignon and The Debate Cabernet Franc wines (all 6 vineyards), it enforces the philosophical theory of ‘strong emergence’… The whole is greater than the sum of its parts 😉
The Ultimate Debate, only available in a magnum, was according to Dima, “one of the top 3 wines I’ve ever tasted!” I thought this wine checked all of the boxes indicating what a wine should be. It had the finesse of a high-end Cabernet Sauvignon, but at the same time the complexity of an old vine Barossa Valley (Australia) Mourvèdre. This is a wine that will resonate with a wide range of persnickety palates.
While I could break out all of the proper sommelier-approved verbiage to describe The Ultimate Debate, I think it is best described as pure silk draped over rocks 😉 It was bold and opulent with vibrant fruit. The finish was round and polished. Ok… so I did pull out a few wine enthusiast descriptions. In short… it was awesome!
The evening was perfect! Mike and Patti are wonderful hosts, and we’re very fortunate to have been included in such an exclusive wine tasting evening. The Debate wines exceeded expectations… and the resulting conversations were lively, fun, and challenging. Oh, and did I mention the food?!?
Every two months or so we join four other couples in a themed event centered around wine, food and fun. The pandemic has impacted the frequency of these events, making the anticipation between gatherings nearly unbearable. It is usually (by design) an informal soirée filled with amazing wines and cuisine. This particular event–hosted by Dima and Oksana–exposed us to the amazing and under appreciated world of Pinot Noir wines of Oregon.
From past personal experiences, I was convinced that all pinots from Oregon were mediocre at best. Every now and again we would run across a wine that would make us sit up and take notice. This evening, however, we were introduced to a suite of wines deserving of our full undivided attention. Our impression of Pinot Noir wines from Oregon changed from ordinary to extraordinary in a few short hours. Here is how it happened.
The rules are simple for this group of ten–aptly named Club 10. Typically each couple brings two bottles of wine to discuss, debate, and most importantly–share. For this event, Dima and Oksana decided to limit each couple to one bottle, while providing lots of wine themselves as part of their themed event. Our hosts, Dima and Oksana, had the opportunity to visit several wineries in and around the Willamette Valley during a recent trip. One particular (and very memorable) experience centers around a very special winery in the Chehalem Mountains. Adelsheim is Chehalem Mountains’ first winery, and the center of this evening’s theme.
We arrived at the home of Dima and Oksana at 4:30pm, and were immediately introduced to one of the wines of the evening. An Adelsheim 2015 Sparkling Brut Cuvee was served and we all began sharing stories (and opinions) of wines from Oregon. I remember how our collective skepticism receded with each sip of this wine. We had not yet officially started the tasting, and everyone was intrigued and very excited about what was to come–a personalized guided tasting.
Virtual Tasting with Elizabeth Clark, CSW – Director of Education and Experience at Adelsheim Vineyard (Photographer: Erin Toung)
Dima and Oksana arranged for our Club 10 to experience a virtual online tasting with Adelsheim’s own Elizabeth Clark, Director of Education and Experience. At promptly 5:00pm, with a few clicks of the mouse, we were connected via Zoom and ready to learn more about the first winery of the Chehalem Mountains. By this time, the hosts had filled the table with an unbelievable assortment of specialty meats, cheeses, roasted vegetables, grilled calamari, fresh-baked bread and more. The stage is set… let’s go 😉
The Adelsheim 2015 Sparkling Brut Cuvee served earlier was reintroduced as the first pour for this six-wine journey through the wines of Adelsheim. This sparkler was a pleasant surprise. Being huge fans of Champagne, it was refreshing (no pun intended) to experience a sparkling wine produced with the same meticulous painstaking traditional method as Champagne.
The 2015 vintage is a blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay. It had a crisp, clean nose with bright citrus notes. As expected, the bread and yeast notes–a characteristic of sur lie aging–added the right amount of complexity to this sparkling wine. Amazing!
Our second pour was the first of four wines chosen to showcase the diversity of terroir in the Willamette Valley. The 2016 Breaking Ground Pinot Noir represents the best of the Chehalem Mountains AVA. The loam soil brings a rich quality to this wine.
Black cherry, black raspberry and a plethora of exotic spices dance playfully on the pallet. This wine reminds me of the pinots from Côte Chalonnaise. Both have distinct fruit alongside a very rustic earthy edginess. This wine was noticeably lighter in color than the reds of Côte Chalonnaise.
Next up was the very juicy 2017 Ribbon Springs Pinot Noir. At this point in our virtual tasting, we had completely disregarded the 2500 miles between our location and Adelsheim Vineyard. Elizabeth’s detailed explanation of the soils, climates and unique characteristics of each vineyard transformed us to the Willamette Valley.
This wine had a very distinct cherry nose. It was less earthy than the previous wine, but still had spice notes and noticeable tannins. As it turns out, this wine was aged for 10 months in French oak barrels (32% new).
The fourth wine brought us to an entirely new level. I remember looking at my personal carafe of 2017 Quarter Mile Pinot Noir and comparing the color to a Côte de Nuits pinot. It was noticeably lighter in color, but had a similar hue. The nose, unlike the previous wines, had distinct floral notes. The color and nose led me to believe this would be a sweeter wine–something along the line of a Beaujolais Nouveau (yes, I know the difference between Gamay and Pinot Noir 😉
I am convinced that hand-planting, hand-picking, sorting and processing of grapes create a noticeable difference in the final wine. This wine supported my theory, and really showcased the winemaking prowess of Adelsheim’s Gina Hennen. She describes this wine as a “study in grace and structure.” I could not agree more. From the first taste, I was hooked. The 2017 Quarter Mile Pinot Noir from Adelsheim is a masterpiece. The color is deceiving. There was nothing light, weak and pale about this wine. In fact, it was bold and at the same time elegant.
On to the 2017 Grand Oak Pinot Noir. Similar to our second wine, the 2016 Breaking Ground Pinot Noir, this wine was produced from vines planted in loam soil. This would be, however, the only common characteristic between these two wines. It’s the remaining contributors of the terroir–such as microclimate and orientation of the vineyard–that give this wine its unique characteristics.
This wine starts timid and shy, but soon after the wine hits your palette it begins to reveal a much deeper complexity and structure. From the delicate floral and faint fruit nose, to the evolving flavors of exotic berries and spices, this wine had a lot to offer. Loved it!
We rounded out our virtual tour and tasting of Adelsheim with the 2010 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir. One of the best parts of discovering new wine is learning the history and/or inspiration behind the label.
As the story goes… Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir is named after the daughter of founders David and Ginny Adelsheim–Lizzie. Lizzie represents a new generation, and in turn Elizabeth’s Reserve exemplifies the spirit and vision of Adelsheim Vineyard. Read the entire story here.
The moment this wine hit my glass I knew it was special. It was older than the previous wines, and had a very noticeable aging ruby color. We expect red wines to become lighter in color and less dense (more transparent) as they age. Sometimes we can gauge the vintage by the color of a wine. After swirling and admiring this wine… it was time to involve the other senses–smell and taste.
The moment this wine hit my glass, I knew it was special…
-Gregory Dean
For me, this wine is more closely aligned with the wines of Côte de Beaune. It reminds me of more recent Pommard vintages. The nose is very aromatic and concentrated, with florals, fruit and earthy notes. Leather and chocolate seemed to be more pronounced after each swirl of the glass, but would dissipate quickly. I took my first sip thinking how fun it would be to participate in a one-decade vertical of Elizabeth’s Reserve 😉
At first, it was full-bodied with fresh, bright cherries (I’m looking at you Pommard). Then the true personality of this wine emerges on my palette. It only took a few seconds for my tastebuds to experience intense red and dark fruit, rustic tannins, and velvety smoothness. My tongue was on a Tilt-a-Whirl 😉 Amazing!
The evening was a lot of fun. It had the perfect amount of discovery and education. We enjoyed every moment alongside great friends, incredible wines, boundless dishes, and the perfect hosts. Thanks Dima and Oksana!
There could not have been a better way to experience the Left Bank of Bordeaux than with a vertical tasting of Pauillac’s Château Haut-Bages Libéral. The highly revered Pauillac region is located between Saint-Estèphe and Saint-Julien on the Médoc peninsula, and boasts three (3) of the five (5) Premiers Crus (first growths) of the 1855 Classification.
Château Haut-Brion, Pessac, AOC Pessac-Léognan
Château Lafite-Rothschild, Pauillac, AOC Pauillac
Château Latour, Pauillac, AOC Pauillac
Château Margaux, Margaux, AOC Margaux
Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, AOC Pauillac(added in 1973)
The estate of Haut-Bages Libéral spans 74 acres growing 70% of cabernet-sauvignon and 30% of merlot varietals. All of the vintages in our two-decade vertical tasting were of similar cabernet-to-merlot blends. The ratios ranged from 65% cabernet-35% merlot of the 2000 vintage, to the 75% cabernet-25% merlot of the 2006 vintage. While this doesn’t seem like much of a variation, the differences in each vintage were not subtle.
Our very ambitious hosts–Dima and Oksana–planned to share their 2000, 2006, 2011, 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2018 vintages in this epic vertical tasting. Even though we were 6 wine enthusiasts strong (Dima, Oksana, Mike, Patti, Greg, Tammy), our lofty intentions fell short of achieving this 7 vintage tasting. This was due in part to our 2 bottle comparison of dry white Bordeaux wines from the Sauternes region (sticking with the Left Bank theme) at the beginning, but mostly because we had no intention of spitting these amazing Pauillac wines into a spittoon. We did, however, compare and contrast 6 of the 7 vintages 😉
2000 Château Haut-Bages Libéral
First up was the 2000 Château Haut-Bages Libéral. This wine was very special. At 21 years young, it was in perfect condition. The taste was soft and elegant. I was very impressed by the vivid color and density of this wine. It would be difficult (for me at least) to identify this as an older wine based only on the color. The aromas included leather, tobacco and pepper as expected. Certainly a wine worthy of its name and reputation.
Comprised of a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot, this wine stood up to the grilled and barbecued meats, flavorful salads and herb infused side dished graciously provided by our hosts.
We jumped ahead 6 vintage years and tasted a 2006 Château Haut-Bages Libéral. The blend was 75% cabernet sauvignon and 25% merlot. This vintage was more aromatic than the previous wine. It offered less of the characteristic leather, earth and tobacco, and more fruit and spice on the nose. The taste was bold and intense, but very well balanced. It deserved a second glass!
Third in our journey was a 2011 Château Haut-Bages Libéral. This was the first vintage of the evening that revealed a slight hint of smoke on the nose (and no, the barbecue wasn’t skewing my senses). Perhaps a characteristic more predominate in vintages challenged by poor growing conditions. The 2011 season was unusually dry and hot. Regardless, the wine was amazing, well balanced, and perfect with or without food. The blend was 72% cabernet sauvignon and 28% merlot.
We continued the process of see, swirl, sniff, sip and savor with the fourth wine in the line-up. The 2014 Château Haut-Bages Libéral is made from a blend of 71% cabernet sauvignon and 29% merlot. It was the first of 3 sequential vintages (2014, 2015, 2016). Convinced by the condition and complexity of the 2000 vintage, I can imagine that these younger wines can only get better (if that’s possible). This wine was very smooth, but exposed more tannin than the older vintages. Nevertheless, it was well rounded yet complex.
According to the winemaker’s notes, the 2015 Château Haut-Bages Libéral vintage was challenging. The weather conditions resulted in lower yields. The blend was 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot (same as the 2000 vintage). The tasting notes, however, are uniquely 2015. While this vintage shared some of the same characteristics of the previous wines, there are several more-than-subtle differences. The tobacco aromas were present, but different. Instead of an earthy, rustic tobacco… this vintage expressed a floral-esc tobacco scent. Think: pipe tobacco versus a cigar. The 2015 vintage also seemed slightly more acidic than the others.
Number six was the 2016 Château Haut-Bages Libéral. This wine is made from a blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot–aligning perfectly with the vineyard’s planting ratio. The black and red fruit aromas were more pronounced in this vintage. This wine is very special! The flavors are bold and intense, but at the same time soft and balanced (yes, I was surprised too). This is the perfect wine to share with someone who loves California big reds, but not a fan of Bordeaux wines.
From there we rounded out the evening with an amazing 2012 Château Voigny dessert wine from Sauternes and homemade desserts. The evening was truly epic! Our friends, Dima and Oksana, made this night entertaining, educational and legendary. Who knew learning could be so much fun? The information they provided in support of these wines was very detailed and enlightening. This was the first time we’d had an opportunity to participate in a vertical that spanned over 2 decades. Couldn’t imagine anything better. Thanks Dima and Oksana!
Our sense of smell is probably one of the most important tools for studying, analyzing, and ultimately enjoying wine. The Court of Master Sommeliers teaches the importance of smell as part of their Deductive Tasting methodology. Throughout the Introductory Sommelier Course & Examination journey, we have been inundated with wine-centric terminology. This includes a plethora of words used to describe the color, smell, taste, and other characteristics of wine. Terminology used to describe the color and density of wine seems less obscure and subjective than describing aroma. Why is that?
We each have a lifetime of references to color. Aromas are different. Aromas can be difficult. One issue that I have noticed is the varying differences of an aromatic characteristic across wines with different alcohol levels. In other words, the black cherry aroma in a Primitivo will not smell the same as in an Amarone. Your brain along with your entire olfactory system needs to be calibrated to isolate these pure scents from the alcohol–and of course, the other scents. How do you do that?
With an unlimited supply of wine, you could taste and hopefully remember every varietal and vintage. For the rest of us, I recommend investing in a wine aroma kit. Thanks to a very thoughtful Santa, I am in possession of the Wine Aroma Kit from the Aroma Academy. I can’t speak to the quality and accuracy of other aroma kits, but this one has far exceeded my expectations. The idea is to coat the special paper strips with the various scents and start a regiment of smell-and-remember. This is something that takes time. Your goal is to become familiar with the individual aromas that are present in wine. [warning: music reference ahead] Your nose is an important instrument, and this is the process of keeping your instrument calibrated and in tune 😉
SOMM&SOMM 
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