When it comes to sparkling wines, most people think of Champagne from France or Prosecco from Italy. However, there’s a hidden gem in the world of bubbly that deserves your attention—Franciacorta. Hailing from the Lombardy region in northern Italy, Franciacorta is a sparkling wine that combines tradition, elegance, and a touch of Italian charm. As a professional sommelier and wine educator, I’m excited to introduce you to this under-appreciated delight just in time for the holidays and New Year’s celebrations.
Lombardy Region in Northern Italy
The Origin of Franciacorta
Franciacorta is produced in the picturesque hills of the Franciacorta zone, situated between the southern shore of Lake Iseo and the city of Brescia. Unlike many other sparkling wines, Franciacorta is made using the traditional method, similar to Champagne. The region’s unique terroir, characterized by its clay-limestone soil and a mild climate, imparts distinctive characteristics to the grapes used in its production.
Chardonnay in Franciacorta
Grapes and Styles
The principal grape varieties used in Franciacorta are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Blanc. The region offers a range of styles, including Franciacorta Brut, Franciacorta Extra Brut, Franciacorta Satèn, and Franciacorta Rosé. Each style presents a different facet of the region’s winemaking expertise, from the crisp and refreshing Brut to the velvety smoothness of a Satèn.
Controlled and guaranteed designation “Franciacorta” Satèn wine shall be obtained from grapes grown in each estate from the following varietals: Chardonnay min. 50%. Pinot bianco grapes can be used to produce the aforesaid wine up to a maximum proportion of 50%.
Article 2.1 – Production Rulebook of the Controlled and Guaranteed “Franciacorta” Designation Wines
Exceptional Quality
One of the hallmarks of Franciacorta is its commitment to quality. The wine undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle, contributing to its fine and persistent perlage (bubbles) and complex flavor profile. With a minimum aging period of 18 months for non-vintage and 30 months for vintage Franciacorta, these wines boast a level of maturity and depth that rivals some of the best sparkling wines in the world.
Perfect for Celebrations
As the holiday season approaches, Franciacorta is an ideal choice for toasts and celebrations. Its versatility makes it suitable for pairing with a variety of dishes, from appetizers to main courses. The crisp acidity and effervescence of Franciacorta cleanse the palate, making it a wonderful accompaniment to rich and savory holiday fare.
New Year’s Elegance
When the clock strikes midnight on New Year’s Eve, raise your glass with a sparkling wine that embodies the spirit of celebration. Franciacorta’s fine bubbles and refined taste make it the perfect choice for toasting to new beginnings. Whether you’re hosting a small gathering or attending a grand party, Franciacorta adds a touch of Italian sophistication to the festivities.
Ladies and Gentlemen, esteemed connoisseurs of life,
As we stand on the cusp of a brand new year, let us raise our glasses high, filled with the effervescent joy of Franciacorta, a sparkling elixir as bright as the possibilities that await us in the coming days.
Let us savor this moment, relish the company of those around us, and toast to the beautiful journey that lies ahead. Happy New Year! May it be as splendid and sparkling as this glass of Franciacorta in our hands. Cheers! 🥂✨
Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM
Discover the Hidden Gem
2018 Bellavista Franciacorta Teatro La Scala Brut
While Champagne and Prosecco often take the spotlight, Franciacorta quietly awaits discovery by those seeking something truly exceptional. As a wine educator, I encourage you to explore the world of Franciacorta and experience the magic of this Italian sparkling wine. Whether you’re a seasoned wine enthusiast or a curious newcomer, Franciacorta offers a delightful journey for your taste buds.
Here are a few of our favorite Franciacorta wines:
In conclusion, this holiday season and New Year’s, consider elevating your celebrations with Franciacorta. It’s time to unveil the well-kept secret of Italian sparkling wine and savor the craftsmanship, tradition, and elegance that make Franciacorta a hidden gem in the world of bubbly. Cheers to new discoveries and unforgettable moments!
Decanting wine is a centuries-old practice that fuses artistry and science to elevate the drinking experience. As a sommelier and wine educator, I am often asked about the mysteries surrounding this ritual. In this comprehensive exploration, we will unravel the essence of decanting, debunk myths surrounding the process, and delve into specific examples of wines that truly blossom when given the chance to breathe.
The Purpose of Decanting
At its core, decanting serves two primary purposes: aeration and sediment separation. Aeration involves exposing the wine to oxygen, which allows it to open up and release its full bouquet of aromas and flavors. This is particularly beneficial for young, tannic red wines that may initially be tight and closed. Sediment separation is relevant for aged wines, as it helps remove any accumulated sediment that can form in the bottle over time.
When to Decant
One common myth is that only red wines benefit from decanting. While red wines generally stand to gain more from the process due to their tannin structure, certain white wines, such as older vintage Chardonnays and oxidative styles like aged Rieslings, can also benefit from aeration.
Another misconception is that only old wines need decanting. While it’s true that older wines often contain sediment, young and robust red wines can also benefit from decanting. For example, a bold Cabernet Sauvignon or a structured Barolo can soften and reveal additional layers of complexity when exposed to air.
How to Decant
Decanting is a simple yet deliberate process. Start by standing the bottle upright for several hours to allow any sediment to settle at the bottom. When ready to decant, gently pour the wine into a decanter in one smooth motion, leaving the sediment in the bottle.
For older wines, it is important to not disturb the wine. The traditional process is to pull the wine from the cellar rack and place it in a wine cradle or basket at the same orientation it was stored. Don’t rotate the bottle because the sediment will have already settled to the side facing down while in the cellar (thanks gravity). Remove the foil and open the bottle while in the basket and proceed to decant while watching for sediment to reach the shoulder. When the sediment reaches the neck, stop decanting.
The high tannin content in young Barolo wines can be softened through aeration, revealing the intricate layers of flavors and aromas that may be initially subdued.
Older Bordeaux wines often develop sediment over time. Decanting not only separates the sediment but also allows the wine to breathe, showcasing the delicate nuances that come with age.
While less common, certain bold and full-bodied white wines, such as Condrieu, can benefit from decanting to allow the aromas and flavors to unfold.
Riedel Mamba Decanter
Decanter Shapes and Styles
Decanters come in a variety of shapes and styles, each designed to accentuate specific characteristics of different wines. Choosing the right decanter can enhance the overall decanting experience, but it’s essential to understand the advantages and potential disadvantages associated with various designs.
– Aeration: The wide base and long neck allow for ample surface area exposure, promoting effective aeration.
– Sediment Separation: The wide bowl facilitates a smooth pour, aiding in the separation of sediment.
Disadvantages:
– Limited Oxygen Exchange: Some classic decanters may not provide as much aeration as more modern designs, potentially limiting the wine’s exposure to oxygen.
– Improved Aeration: The wide bowl at the bottom enhances aeration, while the narrow neck minimizes excessive oxygen exposure, suitable for delicate wines.
Disadvantages:
– Sediment Management: While effective for aeration, the narrow neck may make sediment separation more challenging compared to wider-necked decanters.
– Aesthetic Appeal: These decanters often serve as both functional vessels and pieces of art, adding a visual dimension to the wine experience.
– Aeration: Depending on the design, some modern decanters can offer effective aeration.
Disadvantages:
– Practicality: Some artistic designs may prioritize aesthetics over functionality, potentially impacting the aeration process or ease of pouring.
5. Dual-Chamber or Two-Stage Decanter
Advantages:
– Separate Aeration and Serving Chambers: Enables aeration in one chamber while keeping sediment in another, providing the best of both worlds.
– Precision Pouring: The design often includes a spout, allowing for controlled pouring and minimizing the risk of dripping.
Disadvantages:
– Complex Cleaning: The dual-chamber design can make cleaning more intricate than with simpler decanters.
Decanting wine is both an art and a science, requiring a delicate balance between patience and precision. By understanding the unique characteristics of different wines and debunking common myths, wine enthusiasts can unlock the full potential of their favorite bottles. Whether indulging in a young, robust red or savoring the nuances of a gracefully aged white, the act of decanting is a timeless ritual that enhances the enjoyment of this elixir of the gods. Cheers to the journey of discovering the symphony of aromas and flavors that await within every decanted bottle!
The holiday season is a time for joy, celebration, and, of course, the clinking of glasses filled with delightful wines. As sommeliers and wine educators, we understand the importance of creating a welcoming atmosphere for all wine enthusiasts, regardless of their level of expertise. In the spirit of the holidays, let’s explore some essential etiquette tips for bringing, drinking, and commenting on wine at festive gatherings.
One of the fundamental principles of wine appreciation is acknowledging the diversity of palates
Gregory Dean, SOMM&SOMM
Respect Diverse Tastes
People’s tastes vary widely, influenced by personal preferences, experiences, and cultural backgrounds. When bringing wine to a holiday party, opt for crowd-pleasers—versatile wines that can appeal to a range of preferences. However, it’s crucial to recognize that not everyone will adore the wines you’ve selected, and that’s perfectly acceptable.
Be open-minded and appreciate that individuals may have different taste sensitivities. Avoid taking offense if someone doesn’t particularly enjoy a wine you’ve chosen. Instead, focus on the shared enjoyment of the holiday season and the joy of coming together.
Commenting with Grace
Engaging in conversations about wine and food pairings requires finesse, especially when differing opinions arise. If you find yourself faced with a wine or dish that doesn’t align with your personal taste, resist the urge to express outright criticism. Instead, employ diplomatic language to share your thoughts.
For instance, you might say, “While I personally prefer a crisper white wine with seafood, this red wine offers a unique perspective that I can appreciate,” or “I find the bold flavors in this dish a bit overpowering for my taste, but I can see how it complements the wine for others.”
The key is to express your preferences without diminishing others’ enjoyment. Remember, everyone’s palate is unique, and the beauty of wine lies in its subjective nature.
Appreciate the Entire Experience
Graciousness in Hosting
If you are the host and someone brings a bottle of wine that doesn’t align with your planned menu, embrace the opportunity to showcase your hospitality. Thank them sincerely for the thoughtful gesture and find a moment to share the wine. You might even discover a hidden gem that enhances the overall experience for your guests.
Encourage open dialogue about the wines being served, fostering an environment where guests feel comfortable sharing their thoughts. Emphasize the joy of exploration and the chance to broaden everyone’s understanding of different wine styles.
As we raise our glasses to celebrate the holidays, let us also raise our awareness of the diverse world of wine and the varied tastes that accompany it. By approaching wine with an open heart and an open mind, we can create a holiday atmosphere that is inclusive, gracious, and memorable for all. Cheers to a season filled with joy, appreciation, and the shared love of good company and good wine!
As winter descends upon us, the world comes alive with a myriad of cultural celebrations, each boasting its own unique dishes that reflect the rich tapestry of traditions. From Christmas and Hanukkah to Kwanzaa, Las Posadas, Soyal, and Winter Solstice, these holidays showcase the diversity of global festivities. For many, it is a gastronomic journey of the traditional dishes of these celebrations. With our corkscrews at the ready, we’re excited to reveal wine pairings that will add an extra layer of joy to your holiday table.
Christmas Celebrated December 25 – Photo by Nicole Michalou on Pexels.com
Christmas
Christmas is celebrated with a festive spread that varies from country to country. In many Western cultures, roast turkey or ham takes center stage. For a classic pairing, a well-balanced red wine like Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon complements the richness of the meat. In regions where fish is the star, such as Scandinavia, a crisp and acidic Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio enhances the delicate flavors.
For desserts like Christmas pudding or fruitcake, consider a sweet and fortified wine like Port or a late-harvest Zinfandel. SOMM&SOMM recommends opting for a tawny Port with its nutty undertones to harmonize with the spiced complexity of these traditional treats.
Hanukkah Celebrated December 10-18 – Photo by cottonbro studio on Pexels.com
Hanukkah
Hanukkah, the Festival of Lights, is celebrated with dishes that pay homage to the miracle of oil. Latkes, crispy potato pancakes, and sufganiyot, jelly-filled doughnuts, are holiday staples. A sparkling wine, such as Champagne or Prosecco, provides a lively contrast to the fried delights. The effervescence cuts through the oil, cleansing the palate for the next delicious bite.
For the main course, whether it’s brisket or roasted chicken, a medium to full-bodied red wine like a Cabernet Sauvignon or a Merlot complements the savory richness of the meat. SOMM&SOMM suggests choosing a wine with soft tannins and a hint of spice to elevate the experience.
Kwanzaa Celebrated December 26 – January 1 – Photo by Askar Abayev on Pexels.com
Kwanzaa
Kwanzaa, a celebration of African heritage, features a feast known as Karamu. Traditional dishes include jerk chicken, collard greens, and jollof rice. For the bold flavors of jerk chicken, a Zinfandel or a Syrah provides a perfect balance of fruitiness and spice.
Collard greens pair well with a white wine like a Viognier or a Chardonnay. SOMM&SOMM recommends selecting a wine with good acidity to cut through the richness of the greens. For jollof rice, a versatile red blend or a Sangiovese complements the tomato-based dish, enhancing its depth of flavor.
In Mexico, the nine-night celebration of Las Posadas features tamales, bacalao (salted cod), and ponche, a warm fruit punch. For tamales, a light and fruity red wine like a Beaujolais or a Tempranillo complements the masa and various fillings. Bacalao calls for a crisp and refreshing white wine such as Albariño or Sauvignon Blanc to cut through the saltiness.
Ponche Navideño, with its blend of fruits and spices, pairs well with a sweet and aromatic wine like a Gewürztraminer or a Moscato. SOMM&SOMM suggests selecting a wine with a touch of spice to harmonize with the festive flavors of this Mexican holiday punch.
Soyal, celebrated by the Hopi and other Native American tribes, involves rituals and feasting to welcome the winter solstice. Traditional dishes include blue corn mush, succotash, and roasted meats. Blue corn mush pairs well with a light and earthy white wine like a Chenin Blanc or a Grüner Veltliner.
Succotash, a medley of beans and corn, harmonizes with a crisp and herbal Sauvignon Blanc or a Vermentino. For roasted meats like venison or bison, a robust red wine such as Malbec or Syrah complements the gamey flavors. SOMM&SOMM recommends choosing a wine with bold tannins and dark fruit notes.
The Winter Solstice, celebrated around the world on December 21, marks the shortest day and longest night of the year. Traditional dishes include hearty stews, root vegetables, and spiced desserts. For stews, a rustic red wine like a Grenache or a Côtes du Rhône enhances the savory and aromatic qualities of the dish.
Root vegetables pair well with a medium to full-bodied white wine such as a Viognier or a Roussanne. SOMM&SOMM suggests selecting a wine with a touch of oak to complement the earthy flavors. Spiced desserts, like gingerbread or mulled wine poached fruits, call for a sweet and spicy dessert wine such as a late-harvest Gewürztraminer or a Vin Santo.
This holiday season, let your table be a reflection of the rich and diverse tapestry of global traditions. Whether you’re savoring the flavors of Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, Las Posadas, Soyal, or the Winter Solstice, expert wine pairings can elevate your festive feast. With the guidance of a sommelier, each sip will be a celebration of the unique cultural heritage that makes the holiday season a truly global and joyous affair. Cheers to a world of flavors and a season filled with warmth and merriment! 🍷
As autumn settles in and leaves begin to paint the landscape with warm hues, wine enthusiasts around the world eagerly await the arrival of a special seasonal favorite—Beaujolais Nouveau. This vibrant and fruity red wine, released just weeks after the grape harvest, has become a symbol of celebration and conviviality. As a wine educator, I am excited to delve into the nuances of Beaujolais Nouveau, exploring its origins, characteristics, and the cultural significance that surrounds its annual release.
Beaujolais Nouveau finds its roots in the Beaujolais region of France, nestled between Burgundy and the Rhône Valley. The story begins with a tradition known as “Beaujolais Day,” a celebration that dates back to the early 20th century. The local winemakers, eager to share their newly harvested wines, would race to bring the first bottles of Beaujolais to the market. Over time, this lively tradition evolved into a global phenomenon.
The practice of producing Beaujolais Nouveau officially started in the 1950s, thanks to the marketing genius of Georges Duboeuf, a visionary winemaker. Recognizing the potential of the young, fruity wine, Duboeuf seized the opportunity to promote it as a festive and convivial beverage. The release date was set to the third Thursday of November, creating an annual wine event that captures the imagination of wine enthusiasts worldwide.
The Beauty of Carbonic Maceration
What sets Beaujolais Nouveau apart from other red wines is its unique winemaking process, known as carbonic maceration. This technique involves fermenting whole grapes in a carbon dioxide-rich environment before crushing them. This process emphasizes the fruity and aromatic qualities of the Gamay grape, the star of Beaujolais wines.
The result is a wine that is light, fresh, and brimming with red fruit flavors such as cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. The absence of harsh tannins makes Beaujolais Nouveau exceptionally approachable, even for those who may not typically gravitate towards red wines.
A Symphony of Fruitiness
When exploring Beaujolais Nouveau, one is immediately struck by its vivacious and youthful character. The wine typically exhibits a brilliant, ruby-red hue that hints at the explosion of fruit flavors within. On the nose, one can detect a medley of red berries, accompanied by floral notes that add a layer of complexity.
On the palate, Beaujolais Nouveau dances with bright acidity, making it a refreshing and versatile wine. The fruity profile is complemented by a subtle spiciness, creating a harmonious balance that lingers in the finish. It’s a wine meant to be enjoyed in its exuberant youthfulness, best consumed within the first few months of release.
Pairing Beaujolais Nouveau
One of the joys of Beaujolais Nouveau is its versatility when it comes to food pairings. Its light body and vibrant acidity make it an excellent companion for a variety of dishes. Consider pairing it with classic French fare such as coq au vin or a plate of charcuterie. The wine’s fruity profile also makes it an ideal match for Thanksgiving dinner, complementing the array of flavors on the holiday table.
For those with a sweet tooth, Beaujolais Nouveau can be a surprising ally. Its fruit-forward nature makes it a delightful pairing with fruity desserts, such as a berry tart or poached pears.
The release of Beaujolais Nouveau has transcended its French origins and become a global celebration of wine and camaraderie. Wine lovers around the world eagerly anticipate the third Thursday of November, marking the official release date. Festivals, parties, and special events unfold as enthusiasts raise their glasses to toast the arrival of this unique and ephemeral wine.
Beaujolais Nouveau has become more than just a beverage; it’s a symbol of conviviality, tradition, and the joy of sharing. Winemakers, distributors, and consumers alike partake in the annual ritual, creating a sense of connection that transcends borders and cultures.
Embracing the Beaujolais Nouveau Tradition
I encourage enthusiasts to embrace the magic of Beaujolais Nouveau. Its lively and approachable nature, coupled with the rich history and cultural significance, makes it a wine worth savoring. Whether enjoyed at a festive gathering, a cozy dinner, or simply as a delightful accompaniment to the changing seasons, Beaujolais Nouveau captures the essence of celebration in a bottle. So, as the third Thursday of November passes by, let us raise our glasses to this special season favorite and the traditions that make the world of wine so enchanting.
On October 28, 2023, an enchanting event unfolded in a private suite at Disney’s Riviera Resort, a night that will be fondly remembered by those lucky enough to attend. It marked the 35th Wedding Anniversary of Scott and Alison White, a couple known for their love of fine wine and fine company. Although their actual anniversary date was October 30th, they thoughtfully planned this special celebration a few days in advance to accommodate their dear friends and family with busy schedules. It turned out to be a decision that would create an unforgettable evening filled with elegance, exceptional wine, and camaraderie.
Place setting for the Chateau Montelena Penta-deca-vertical
The centerpiece of the evening was a Chateau Montelena themed 5-course wine dinner featuring five decades of the legendary Cabernet Sauvignon wines of Chateau Montelena: 1978, 1988, 1998, 2008, and 2018. As each guest arrived, they were greeted with a glass of the 2020 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, a delightful prelude to the remarkable evening that awaited them. The bright and beautifully floral wine flowed as guests mingled, setting the stage for a night of memorable moments.
Gregory Dean (SOMM&SOMM) and Chris Grossman, CSW (Chateau Montelena)
The uniqueness of this event became apparent when all five different Cabernet Sauvignons were poured at the beginning of the meal. This format allowed every vintage to be compared with all five courses. To enhance the experience and create a lasting memory, special tasting mats were thoughtfully provided for the 32 guests, inviting them to take notes and record their journey through these remarkable wines.
Our ties may not be by blood, but they’re definitely by bottle… and I dare say, that’s even stronger!
Gregory Dean
Adding an extra layer of enchantment to the evening, Chris Grossman, a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) from Chateau Montelena, was in attendance as the special guest. His presence was akin to having the gatekeeper of a vinous treasure trove share the secrets and stories behind each bottle. Chris regaled the guests with detailed information about each wine, unveiling the history and the little-known tales of the fabled Chateau Montelena. His insights and storytelling elevated the entire experience, making it all the more special.
Chris Grossman, CSW – Chateau Montelena
As for the culinary side of the evening, the menu was meticulously curated, offering a perfect marriage of flavors with the exceptional wines:
Beets Three Ways: The evening commenced with a dish that celebrated the versatility of beets, prepared three ways and complemented by fine herbs and red wine vinaigrette.
Roasted Butternut Squash Soup: The second course brought to the table a velvety roasted butternut squash soup, adorned with pepitas and pomegranate seeds.
Char-Crusted Swordfish: The third course introduced char-crusted swordfish, accompanied by creamed leeks and a cabernet reduction.
Cabernet-Braised Short Rib: The fourth course featured tender cabernet-braised short ribs, served with red wine-braised onions and polenta.
Reverse-Seared Ribeye: The grand finale was a succulent reverse-seared ribeye, presented with smoked gouda mac & cheese, charred Brussels sprouts, and a tantalizing blackberry sauce.
As the evening progressed, there was no shortage of opinions and expressions of how each wine paired with every dish. In fact, there were eight (8) sommeliers among the thirty-two (32) total guests. This created an atmosphere of wine knowledge euphoria 😉 With the penta-deca-vertical (a Scott White coined phrase) poured, each course was meticulously prepared and served. Here is my summary of how these wines paired with the dishes:
Beets Three Ways – The older, softer wines (1978 and 1988) were my favorite wines for this dish. The 1998 with the golden beets in this dish were definitely a favorite.
The 1978 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine matured with time, gracefully complemented the “Beets Three Ways.” Its aged elegance showcased a symphony of flavors with subtle hints of blackberries, dried herbs, and a delicate touch of leather. This wine lent a refined depth to the dish. The earthy beets in their various preparations resonated with the wine’s complex character, creating a harmonious balance between sweet and savory, which was a testament to the beauty of well-aged Cabernet Sauvignon.
The 1988 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, known for its rich dark fruit flavors and velvety texture, engaged in a delightful dance with the “Beets Three Ways.” The wine’s fruity undertones accentuated the natural sweetness of the beets while its tobacco notes offered a contrasting depth. This pairing brought out the best in both wine and dish, creating a symphony of flavors where the earthy and peppery aspects of the beets were beautifully elevated by the wine’s round finish.
Roasted Butternut Squash Soup – This dish was earthy and rustic, so the older vintages seemed to be a natural fit. My favorite, however, was the 1998 with this particular dish.
The 1998 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, characterized by dark plum, tobacco, and cedar, offered a captivating interplay with the Roasted Butternut Squash Soup. The wine’s firm tannins and depth created a delightful contrast to the soup’s creaminess. The wine’s dark fruit elements harmonized with the soup’s sweetness, while its structural integrity accentuated the dish’s complexity. This pairing celebrated the diverse characteristics of both the wine and the cuisine, creating an engaging and rich experience.
Char-Crusted Swordfish – This dish was diverse enough to work well alongside any of the vintages. At one point I witnessed a guest enjoying this dish with the 2020 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 😉 It’s this very reason that I leaned into a contrasting pairing as opposed to the classic complementing approach.
The 2008 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, recognized for its balanced blackberry, cassis, and hints of eucalyptus, offered a refreshing twist to the Char Crust Swordfish. The wine’s depth and the hints of eucalyptus provided a unique contrast to the dish. The wine’s dark fruit flavors harmonized with the swordfish’s flavors, while its structural integrity accentuated the overall complexity of the dish. This pairing showcased the wine’s ability to provide a dynamic and revitalizing counterpoint to seafood.
Cabernet-Braised Short Rib – This savory dish required a wine with pronounced fruit, body, and bolder tannins. The 2018 was a perfect fit!
The 2018 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, the most recent vintage, unveiled bold blackberry, currant, and dark chocolate notes, creating an opulent and luxurious pairing with the Cabernet-braised Short Rib. The wine’s dark fruit and chocolate undertones beautifully complemented the richness of the short rib, enhancing the overall experience. The red wine-braised onions and polenta found a luxurious partner in this vintage, creating a grand and flavorful conclusion to the dish. This pairing set a decadent tone for the rest of the wine dinner, emphasizing the wine’s versatility and its ability to elevate classic comfort food to new heights.
Reverse-Seared Ribeye – The final dish in the 5-course pairing would have easily stood up to any of the vintages in our penta-deca-vertical. My preference, however, was the 1978 vintage.
The 1978 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, with its well-aged complexity, presented a captivating contrast to the Reverse-seared Ribeye. This vintage’s notes of blackberries, dried herbs, and subtle leather added depth and sophistication to the rich, succulent ribeye. The wine’s smooth tannins and long finish created an elegant harmony with the dish, bringing out the ribeye’s bold flavors and creating a luxurious and timeless pairing.
Just when the evening couldn’t possibly get better… dessert was served! It was a melody of sweet classics–including creme brûlée (a personal favorite). These dessert dishes were served to enjoy alongside a luscious Chateau Montelena Late Harvest and Chateau Montelena Ruby-style Port (very exclusive).
Chef Jose preparing Creme Brûlée
We could not have scripted a better evening with a better group of friends. Thanks Scott and Alison for the friendship and shared love of food and wine.
…So raise your glasses, give a hearty cheer, To Scott and Alison, who’ve persevered; Through all the years, come what may, Here’s to more laughter, on this special day!
From the 35th Anniversary Toast – Gregory Dean
A few memories captured by Erin Toung. Thanks, Erin, for the wonderful photos 😉
In the illustrious world of fine wines, few names evoke as much reverence and admiration as Chateau Margaux (my favorite first growth). Nestled in the heart of Bordeaux’s famed Margaux appellation, this historic estate has consistently produced wines of unparalleled grace and distinction. Among the numerous exceptional vintages that have emerged from its cellars, the 1977 Chateau Margaux stands as a shining example of Bordeaux’s timeless elegance and the estate’s unwavering commitment to excellence.
During a routine gathering of five wine-loving couples–appropriately named Club 10–one particular label stood out. While it isn’t unusual for wine-enthusiasts Brian and Erin Toung to share rare and unusual wines from their extensive collection, we knew right away that this night was going to be special. All of the wines were spectacular, and the 1977 Chateau Margaux provided by the Brian and Erin Toung lived up its reputation.
Club 10 – August 18, 2023 at the home of Mike and Patti Weber
History of Chateau Margaux
Chateau Margaux’s legacy dates back to the 12th century when the property was first cultivated as a vineyard. However, it wasn’t until the 17th century that it began to gain prominence under the ownership of the Marquise de la Colonilla. Under her careful stewardship, Chateau Margaux rose to prominence, earning the moniker “The Pearl of Bordeaux.”
Throughout its storied history, the estate has changed hands several times but always maintained its reputation for producing some of the world’s finest wines. The modern era ushered in a new era of precision winemaking under the guidance of André Mentzelopoulos, and later, his daughter Corinne Mentzelopoulos, who continues to oversee the estate today.
The 1977 Vintage: A Snapshot in Time
The 1977 Chateau Margaux vintage occupies a unique place in the estate’s annals. While not as legendary as some of the earlier vintages, such as the 1961 or the 1982, it remains a fascinating chapter in Chateau Margaux’s history. This vintage was marked by a temperate growing season with a mild summer, resulting in wines that exhibit a graceful finesse rather than raw power.
Tasting Notes from a Sommelier’s Perspective
The cork quickly disintegrated during several attempts to release it from its stable home of 46 years. After a slow ritual-like decanting, it was time to indulge 😉
Aroma: Upon pouring a glass of the 1977 Chateau Margaux, I was immediately greeted by a symphony of aromas. Delicate notes of dried flowers, violet, and rose petals danced alongside more profound scents of blackcurrant, plum, and cherry. The bouquet was enchanting and seductive, showcasing the wine’s maturity with grace.
Palate: On the palate, the wine continued to captivate with its finesse. The tannins had softened over the years, providing a silky texture that caressed the tongue. While the fruit had mellowed, it remained vibrant, revealing flavors of blackberry, cedar, tobacco, and subtle hints of leather. There was a lovely balance between the fruit and tertiary notes, making it a delight to savor.
Structure: The 1977 Chateau Margaux maintained an impeccable structure. It had a medium body with a long, elegant finish that leaves a trail of subtle spices and a touch of minerality. The wine’s acidity was still remarkably fresh, providing a sense of vitality that belies its age.
Pairing: This vintage calls for equally refined and nuanced cuisine. It paired perfectly with the French-inspired dishes meticulously prepared by our Club 10 hosts, Mike and Patti Weber. The wine’s elegance and complexity complemented these dishes beautifully.
An Experience Like No Other
The 1977 Chateau Margaux is a testament to the timeless allure of Bordeaux’s Margaux appellation and the unwavering commitment to quality at Chateau Margaux. While it may not be the most famous vintage from this legendary estate, it offed a unique opportunity to experience the grace and finesse that have made Chateau Margaux a household name among wine connoisseurs. With its mature aromas, silky palate, and impeccable structure, the 1977 Chateau Margaux continues to captivate the senses and remind us of the enduring excellence that defines this historic winery. Thanks Brian and Erin!
There is no better way to learn about (and appreciate) wine than to get fully immersed in its rich history, culture, and traditions. Sometimes we get so involved in studying a wine’s properties–such as nose, taste, structure, and color–that we miss out on the characteristics that make the wine unique to a particular country, region or village. This is especially true for the less traveled old-world vineyards and wineries of Eastern and Central Europe. We recently participated in a traditional Georgian supra (სუფრა) and experienced a full day of traditional dishes, wine, toasts (many toasts) and Georgian culture complete with our own tamada (თამადა).
Our tamada, Dima, pours our first Georgian wine of the afternoon
Upon arrival, we knew right away that Dima and Oksana (our hosts) had meticulously planned an afternoon of wine, food and education to challenge our minds and stimulate our senses. Other than the high-level information about viticulture and vinification from our somm-studies, we knew very little about the history and culture of Georgian wines. That was about to change 😉
Our tamada, Dima, poured the first wine (2018 Marani Tsinandali) as we watched several very informative videos. Tsinandali is a dry white wine from the region of Kakheti. Although a blend of Rkatsiteli (80%) and Mtsvane (20%), it had a familiar nose. On the palette, the creaminess from being aged a short time in oak barrels reminded me of a Chardonnay. The tropical fruit notes, however, were reminiscent of a Pinot Grigio.
The closest match (at least to my palette) would be the Marsanne-Roussanne blends of Rhone, France–such as the Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc. While sharing a few characteristics of other dry white wines, this Tsinandali was truly unique and the perfect way to start our journey of Georgian wines.
Our wine-fueled discussions continued with a deep dive into the Country of Georgia and its long history of producing wine. Winemaking in Georgia can be traced back to the people of South Caucasus in 6,000BC. That’s right… archaeologists have uncovered clay wine vessels (called qvevris) that date back 80 centuries. With a basic understanding, and whole new appreciation for Georgia, we’re ready for our tamada-led supra–Gaumarjos!
From left to right: Dima (our tamada), Tammy, Greg, Oksana, Patti and Mike
A Georgian keipi (ქეიფი) would not be authentic without a tamada to lead and lecture. Dima wasted no time in leading us through the first of many though-prevolking and purposeful toasts. Several were off-the-cuff as expected, but most followed the deep-seated tradition of the Georgian supra.
“To family, friends, health, long life and laughter…”
The table was covered with amazing regional-inspired dishes which paired perfectly with the Georgian wines. The second wine in the lineup was a crisp aromatic dry white Chinuri (Iago Chinuri) from the Mukhran Valley. This no-skin-contact wine had a bright acidity and subtle minerality. Awesome!
The dry white wines of Georgia are really special. As with the Iago Chinuri, the next two (2) single-varietal wines are macerated in qvevris (also spelled kvevris). This ancient method of producing Georgian wine involves burying it underground for an extended period of time. In fact, it was the early Georgians that discovered grape juice buried in the ground for the winter would turn into wine. So, is Georgia the birthplace of wine? Hard to argue otherwise.
The third wine in the lineup was a single varietal traditional qvevri dry white Rkatsiteli from the Kakheti region (2017 Marani Rkatsiteli). It was nice to taste and enjoy this varietal stand-alone, and compare it to the previous blend (2018 Marani Tsinandali). The qvevri method gives this wine a very different profile. There was a hint of orange in the color (more like amber), but certainly not glowing neon like the California white wines that spend additional time on the skins.
The nose is intense and herbaceous. On the palette, this wine is very expressive. Some minerality exists, but the herb notes really come forward. This was a very nice wine, and really opened our eyes (and minds) to the lesser-known varietals. There are an astounding 500+ varieties of indigenous grapes in Georgia. Only 40 varietals are used in commercial production.
At this point, we were are all fully committed to the supra, and our tamada has led us through many toasts. Our wine glasses were never empty, as the discussions are focused on those special clay pots and their role in subterranean winemaking 😉
The fourth wine could not have been timed better. Smoked meats, specialty cheeses, deep-fried okra (my favorite), fresh bread, and a beet salad beyond words were perfect with this 2017 Marani Mtsvane. The qvevri orange wine was beautifully elegant with a long finish. The tannins, uncharacteristic in a white wine, were soft and smooth. Gaumarjos!
The 2017 Marani Mtsvane wine has forward notes of pitted fruits, and at the same time ripe melon lurks in the distance. I detected fruit tree blossoms on the nose. Generally speaking, amber/orange wines sacrifice fruitiness for tannins by spending up to six months on the skins. This particular wine, however, had the brightness of a white and the soft tannins of a red. Perfect springboard to the Georgian red wine lineup.
The time had come for a lesson in the art (and science) of making khinkali (ხინკალი). This giant dumpling–sometimes spelled ‘hinkali’–is thought to have originated in Georgia. Regardless, it is still a mainstay. Oksana taught Tammy, Patti and Mike the proper technique for filling and forming these delicious dumplings. Dima feverishly stirred a huge pot of seasoned boiling water and cooked the khinkali to perfection.
As we moved into the entrées, it was time to abandon the wonderfully intriguing white wines of Georgia and explore the world of expressive reds. The next two (2) wines were a great introduction into one of the most common varietals in Georgia–Saperavi.
First up (fifth in the lineup for those keeping score) was the 2016 Damani Saperavi. Initial impression was that this wine was faulty. It was somewhat bitter and unapproachable. After a few minutes, it began to resemble wine. Eventually the characteristics of a Saperavi varietal started to come through. Slightly smoky and light floral notes. Still a little bitter and acidic for this varietal.
This is only my third teinturier grape variety I’ve had the opportunity to taste. The other two were Gamay de Bouze and Chambourcin. Teinturier grapes have dark skins and dark flesh/pulp. Most red varietals have dark skins and clear flesh.
The sixth wine–also a Saperavi–was a 2019 Tanini Saperavi from the Kakheti region. This wine had an intense inky color typical of teinturier varietals. This unoaked red wine was surprisingly well-structured and balanced. The dark, ripe fruits and just the right amount of earthiness was perfect for what was next–lamb skewers.
The contrast between the 2016 Damani Saperavi and 2019 Tanini Saperavi wines was unexpected. Especially since both wines were produced in the same area (region). This cold-tolerant varietal is gaining momentum in the northeastern United States–notably in the Finger Lakes.
A few glasses into the red wines was the perfect time for the pièce de résistance. With a few bold Georgian reds next up on our journey, we were excited to try each paired with Dima’s char-grilled lamb skewers and the plethora of Oksana’s accompanying dishes. Gaumarjos!
Mukuzani is an area in Kakheti where they are only allowed to make dry wines from 100% Saperavi grapes. The seventh wine in our lineup, a 2018 Marani Mukuzani, was very charismatic. The nose was chocolate-covered cherries and vanilla spice (yes… in the same glass). This wine is dry and very well balanced. Perfect with the Georgian cuisine!
Unlike the two previous Saperavi wines, this Mukuzani was characteristic of old-world reds. The oak aging combined with the use of qvevris gently coax flavors of ripe, juicy fruit and prunes from the Saperavi grapes. Qvevris are buried in dirt cellars called ‘Marani,’ so it makes sense to name a company the same 😉
Mukuzani is 1 of 24 Protected Designations of Origin (PDO) wine appellations in the Country of Georgia. Each appellation concentrates on one main wine style (dry red, semi-sweet red, dry amber, sweet amber/fortified white, dry white, semi-dry white, semi-sweet white, sparkling white).
The eighth wine (whew) of our journey was a 2019 Marani Kindzmarauli. Kindzmarauli is an appellation that produces semi-sweet red wines. The Marani Kindzmarauli was very silky, and unlike the Mukuzani had more distinct blackberry and ripe cherry notes. The wine was expressive and bright. This is undoubtedly due to the wine being finished in stainless steel tanks as opposed to oak barrels.
Kindzmarauli is considered semi-sweet and certainly would have seemed sweeter if served slightly chilled. It was perfect with the grilled meats and rich dishes of our supra. Having the opportunity to experience all of the facets of this varietal was special… and very enlightening.
The ninth wine in the lineup was another semi-sweet red from the Kindzmarauli PDO. Our tamada opened a very special 2019 Teliani Valley Kindzmarauli late harvest wine. We typically associate late harvest with dessert wines. We’ve recently discovered, however, that semi-sweet Georgian wines would be considered not-so-sweet or semi-dry in other countries.
Tannic and flavorful. Dark fruit, spices and mocha on the nose. This wine stood up to the many flavors of our feast. The most interesting thing about the semi-sweet wines of Georgia is how perfectly balanced (and very unusual) to have tannins present. It works… and it works well. Gaumarjos!
The supra was rounded out by two amazing semi-sweet Georgian wines. Wine number ten in our lineup was a 2017 Damani Kindzmarauli. This wine stood on its own, although it was right at home with the Georgian fare. It was a little different than the other Saperavi wines of the tasting. For me, at least, it reminded me of a well-balanced red blend.
The eleventh and final wine of the supra was a perfect closer. The Old Telavi Khvanchkara red dessert wine was absolutely amazing! Made from a blend of Aleksandrouli and Mujuretuli grapes, it was lush and balanced. Filled with blackcurrant and raspberry aroma, the wine is juicy and slightly tannic. Yes, please!
This was one of the most fun and educational gatherings we’ve ever attended. We all have a new appreciation for the Georgian traditions of drinking, toasting and feasting. Dima and Oksana were incredible hosts. Their passion for wine, culture and cuisine was on full display. Dima and Oksana’s masterful creations perfectly complimented the wines of Georgia and our tamada’s artfully prepared toasts.
We’ve all spent many hours reading scores and reviews from some of the most well-respected wine aficionados in the world. In most cases, we align our tastes with the palette of one of these professional wine critics. I tend to lean more towards the tastes of Robert Parker than James Suckling, but both provide a peek into the characteristics and profile of even the most obscure wines.
There is no escaping the fact that a high score from one of the well-known critics will almost always boost demand. Personally, I have been known to seek out wines that have achieved a perfect score from either Robert Parker or James Suckling. Even before opening these wines, my expectations have been set. The wine should be incredible–almost life-changing. I don’t always agree with the ratings, but these scores have definitely had an impact on which wines I buy and which wines I avoid.
Tammy and I have decided to share our wine-centric wit and wisdom by introducing a new series–The Deans’ List. Before you English majors begin the barrage of comments, let me defend the plural possessive proper noun 😉 Our last name is Dean. Together, we are the Deans (plural). Our list of wines and evaluations–resulting from the SOMM&SOMM profile and analysis–is accurately named The Deans’ List (plural possessive). It also doesn’t hurt to have a natural play on a phrase associated with academic achievement.
Unlike the academic list… wines added to the SOMM&SOMM Deans’ List will include a Grape Point Average (GPA) based on the SOMM&SOMM approach to evaluating wines. Our methodology includes metrics important to consumers–such as pair-ability and share-ability. We are always interested in classic food and wine pairings, and will continue to expand on these ideas in our Perfect Pairings series. Other measurements–such as Old World or New World Characteristics, Effects of Climate, Effects of Geography and more–will provide a different (and hopefully useful) perspective into these wines.
Great wine isn’t cheap, and cheap wine can be good but rarely great 😉
-Gregory Dean 2021
Recognizing the fact that any given varietal can produce countless variations and seemingly endless styles, we think it’s important to rate wines on (1) how well they represent (e.g. stay true to) their terroir, (2) the balance and complexity, (3) the approachability and versatility, and (4) the overall value. You know… the stuff important to consumers. Great wine isn’t cheap, and cheap wine can be good but rarely great 😉 We hope to uncover some of these hidden gems.
Sample SOMM&SOMM Summary Card (not an actual evaluation)
Most of us naturally evaluate wine every time it hits our glass. It can be difficult, however, to evaluate wine objectively. Just because it’s not my favorite doesn’t mean it’s not a good representation of wines of the same style from the same region. The summary card for each wine provides a quick glance at all the usual characteristics plus an overlay of the average (typical) characteristics.
As part of our evaluation process, we will include details with recommendations for pairing and sharing. Our wine evaluation and overall analysis will ultimately lead to a Grape Point Average (GPA). A 4.0 Grape Point Average is the highest possible score, and reserved for wines that best represent wines of the same varietal, region, and style.
Be sure to subscribe to this blog and be the first to receive notifications when new wines are added to the SOMM&SOMM Deans’ List 😉
Amarone (pronounced aa-muh-row-nay) is one of the most intriguing and mystic wines you’ll ever experience. It hails from the Valpolicella, Veneto region in north-east Italy, and is deeply steeped in tradition. No… Amarone is not a grape variety. It is a specific style of wine unique to this region. The three main grape varieties used to produce Amarone include Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara (up to 15%). Most Amarone produced today use between 60% and 80% Corvina as the primary grape in the blend–contributing to its signature flavor. Other varietals are used alongside Covina, Rondinella and Molinara for basic Valpolicella wines. These include: Pelara, Negrara, Forsellina and Oseleta.
There are actually four (4) styles of distinct wines that come from the Valpolicella region. Recioto, Valpolicella, Ripasso and Amarone. Each uses a different blend of the local grape varietals mentioned earlier. The basic Valpolicella is light bodied and typically served slightly chilled. Some compare this wine to a traditional Beaujolais. I am yet to make this connection 😉 The remaining three styles, Amarone, Ripasso and Recioto all have something in common… dried grapes. That’s right, dried grapes! While according to legend, Amarone is a fairly recent discovery (1936), it has been around and vastly under appreciated for centuries.
To appreciate Amarone, we need to understand its connection to Recioto. Fashionable early Romans preferred their wines sweet. Very sweet. Recioto wines (or at least variations of) date back to 234 BC. Immediately following harvest, grapes are placed in racks to dry. This method, called Appassimento (grape drying), allows time for the water to mostly evaporate and sugars become concentrated. The resulting must (grape juice) is fermented into this hyper-sweet nectar of the Gods we call Recioto. The winemaker determined the level of sweetness by stopping fermentation before the yeast converts all the sugar to alcohol.
In the early days of Recioto production, the yeast sometimes remained active and continued to feed off the sugars. As a result, the wines were no longer sweet and much higher in alcohol. This style of wine did not resonate with the Romans, and was sold for cheap and used for cooking. Tastes changed over the years, and bitter recioto became Amarone–one of the most famous (albeit misunderstood) expensive wines in the world. Today Amarone wine is made through a deliberate process, not a result of unintentional extended fermentation.
Amarone della Valpolicella is now a recognized DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). This is the certification bestowed on regions of Italy indicating wines produced with the highest level of quality. Amarone wine begins as a garnet color with a ruby red rim (slight variation). Over time, the color of the wine gets lighter with reddish-brown brick tones. Every young red wine expresses fruit. The signature black cherry nose and palate of young Amarone takes on spicy notes as well as leather, old wood and even violet potpourri as it ages. Regardless, it is an amazing wine to serve with braised meats and mature cheeses. The biggest challenge with pairing this wine is understanding the impact a 15% alcohol wine can have on a particular dish.
If this sounds intimidating, perhaps you would rather start with a “Baby Amarone.” Ripasso, as it turns out, is made from the same grapes as its big brother–Amarone. And while the initial wine isn’t made from dried grapes (yes, I mentioned Ripasso and dried grapes above), it goes through a second fermentation with used Amarone dried grapes. This process produces an amazing wine with all of the pure characteristics of the ripe Covina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes with the added intensity of the previously used Amarone grapes. This is certainly a wine worth seeking out!
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